Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. I am sure they are all back to work to pay for that blue luxury. But in all honesty, this is a start as a hobby while I have some cash flow to plan for later when more expenses creep in. Don't have kids currently but while I have some cash to start building a system that can benefit us at a later stage. Started off with a 500w 12v pure sine wave ups and 8 ups batteries. Back in 2015 when load shed started. Then upgraded to 2 x 105 ah deep cycle batteries for the ups. Then upgraded to a 600w 24v pure sine wave inverter with 4 x 105ah deep cycle batteries. Stayed in a apartment and could not do anything with solar or bigger inverter. That kept be going but now it is time for bigger. Latest addition is a grid tie inverter - Kstar Omega KSG 4k that has a 4000w 2 string input MPPT controller.
  3. Hello everyone, any one know apple software or android software for Voltronic Infini inverter to monitoring power, consumption or anything load through the inverter, like shinewifi from growatt please share with me Thank you alkafa
  4. Sacrilege! Grab your torch and pitchforks fellas! Fellas!? Hey, where ya'll gone now!? :-P
  5. Hi @Ronnie_V and others following this thread, I dropped by OnTrack this morning (school finally started again). Sadly I was a bit slow, the Quattro was already shipped back on Friday, but I could discuss it with the tech. Other than the bad point that the previous place that worked on it (which quoted a silly price too and didn't pick up the real problem) also damaged it, it seems the problem was mostly in the configuration of the unit. When restored to factory default it behaved perfectly. The firmware has now been updated and I little birdie told me some extra monitoring hardware has been acquired, so next time you'll be in a much better position. Very very thankful that it's been solved, and it appears that the cost of the courier was likely the bulk of it :-)
  6. Today
  7. TTT are you refereing to blue Victron? If that is the case, by starting small I am going with the cheaper route to get started even though my inverter is blue it is not "that" blue.
  8. The Terrible Triplett

    Introducing me

    Batting for the Blue team or the "other" team?
  9. Welcome Luminous and good luck.
  10. Hi all, Long time member but no posts. After reading the forum for 2 years I decided to start small and build my system up.
  11. Yesterday
  12. Lekker man! I'm after removing the UPS one day, for that I need a Multiplus, and with that the picture a few posts back becomes reality. Just not the house, for that is geyserS and kitchenS, no. I have separate circuits in already. So it will power just that. BUT, what you said above, does make a lot of sense for wanting to go higher than 800w constant draw on 200ah battery. Also the 5000va would probably draw more current on idle than the Phoenix. Phoenix does wot, 8-10w. So no benefit in replacing the APC, getting rid of +-50w + Phoenix 10w, and then add back 60w. But I hear you. I'll look lower, like 12v 2000va. :-) I still do not see the benefit of a 48v bank unless one wants to power a house or you want Lithiums. Till that day, I will stick to 24v, but I still prefer 12v. Why low voltages are sooo cool. The smoke I have seen so many times. The last time, when I had 12v going through a 12v Victron inverter, man the smoke was awesome. Time before that when I did not disconnect the battery sensing wires, just pulled them ... and they touched ... instantly becoming a "heater" element, smoking the insulation off ... both cases the room went white. But I am done now. The video, love it when he says: We can do better than that ... We have a slightly Bigger capacitor ... What about this bad boy, you know you want to ...
  13. You don't have complete carte-blanche. For a second or so, until it adjusts, the battery has to be able to carry the full load. Let me explain a little about how this grid-parallel thing works. The Multi's control point is at its input. There is this thing we call the "grid setpoint", and basically the Multi tries as much as possible to stick to the power level. If you set it to 100W (for example), it will attempt to draw 100W as long as it has somewhere to put it (ie enough load on the output, or the battery isn't full). If it cannot comply with your request, it will draw less. If however you have loads on the output that draws 200W, then 100W comes from the grid, and 100W comes from the batteries. Similarly, if you set it to -100W, it will push 100W into the grid. If you also have a 200W load on the output, it will pull 300W from the batteries. Now let me explain what happens if a large load starts on the output. That power comes from the batteries until such time as someone or something increases the grid setpoint to allow more to come from the grid. Normally you'll go into the Settings->ESS menu and set the Maximum inverter power, and what this will do is adjust the setpoint to compensate for the load on the output. But it takes several hundred milliseconds to do so. So a 5000W load on an 80Ah battery (for example, pretty common size for Diesel bakkies), you'll kill it with undervoltage before it can adjust. Believe me, I've done it. Edited to add: When I say "you set the grid setpoint" I don't mean you as the end user... I mean as a developer, as the guy writing the control software. As the end user you tell the software some basic parameters and it calculates and sets the grid setpoint for you to get the desired outcome. Additionally, it has a 60 second timeout. If it doesn't hear anything from the control software each minute, it goes into passthru mode.
  14. Have 600 and 700 and a VenusGX. :-) And a 100/30 and a 150/35 for the 2 sets of arrays. The day the Phoenix give up the smoke, and I don't see that happening soon, is the day I am ready for the next level. More bang for your buck man! :-) No seriously, it is not about pulling 5kva from the batts most of the time. if you can have 1 x 200ah battery on a 5kva and all the goodies to do ESS, then the battery hardly ever gets used, not so? For also with a 12v system you are limited on the array size, unless you double or triple up on controllers. So one must be wise. It is about massive peaks for a smoke second, that one may need that beast. Rest of the time it idles at <1000w on solar. Jip, thanks for the reminder on the ver 25. My Phoenix is stuck on 19, but that's not here not there, it is "old" inverter looking as new.
  15. Firmwares can be upgraded. Ask for a photo of the main board. On the MCU there will be a sticker with the loaded firmware, which also includes the MCU model. It will either start with 19 or 26. You want it to start with 26. You can sometimes also figure it out from the serial number. The serial numver will start with HQ followed by several digits, the first 4 is the year and the week in which it was manufactured. If it is post-2015 it's almost certainly the newer processor, and it will be able to run the latest 4xx firmware.
  16. I have a 3kva 12V Multi on my test bench, with 180Ah LFP batteries. Even that is a little nuts! 5kva is completely bonkers. 2kw is the limit for 12V, at least in my opinion. The BMV remains the more accurate tool of the lot. My point is, if you're on a tight budget or need to spread the costs a bit, you don't need to buy one. If you already have one, I'm not sure it's worth the price you get for "smous"ing it. Or in other words, it is worth the 2k saving if you're going to splash on a Venus-GX instead, but I'm not sure it's worth the 1k (ish) you'll get for selling it on, especially the older 600 model, when you already have a Venus-GX :-)
  17. @plonkster like this: https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-boat-parts-accessories/gordon-s-bay/victron-energy-multiplus-inverter-charger/1002459588860910180076409 T&C apply, like it must have the latest firmware. :-) For I'm thinking, what I need to power, same as Fredhen, are the salient stuff, not the house, so I can plug it into the wall, and feed the existing circuits, the ones the Phoenix is feeding currently, thereby letting go of the BMV and the 2400w online UPS.
  18. Playing with ideas like a 12v 5kva Multiplus, with my current bank. Connect house feed to the inverter, inverter feeds the DB. Then on the DB selected circuits "trip" if Eskom goes off, like kitchen. Don't want any chats with CoCT re. connecting to the grid. Must be legit. For IF the above can work i.e. large array on a small battery bank, then that is nirvana, no?
  19. The Terrible Triplett

    UPS and Solar battery choice

    Nope. 72v. Most high powered online UPS'es are 72/96v.
  20. gabriel

    UPS and Solar battery choice

    if i just use two 250ahx12v in series [keep the other one as spare and exchange now and then] the price should come way down as the batteries are the most expensive part of the ups... not? obviously i have to go with an on-line ups as it will have to go through the db and i'll have to compensate my sparky friend to do it which will cost a couple, but at least i know that eskom will not interrupt business. do you guys think something like this might do the trick?
  21. @pilotfish is an electrical contractor if I recall. Maybe he knows someone in your area?
  22. Hi Guys, I am now fairly happy with my system, although it's seen on here as cheap, (READ: I am paying school fees) it seems to work well :), at least got descent panels it seems. I now want to wire this into my DB, and split the line in from Eskom, so that I power the plugs and lights from the inverter/solar/battery. I have all the power hungry bits on gas already. Don't even own a electric kettle. I don't want to do this part DIY. Can you direct me to someone willing and qualified that can do this part for me? Cheers
  23. plonkster

    Infini 10 kW Inverter

    That's somewhat of a problem with large parallel systems. It all adds up. Even a PV-inverter (Fronius, SMA) has some self-consumption and will often draw quite a bit of power early morning and later afternoon when it's still trying to do something but there isn't really much sun yet/left.
  24. He used the remote console in that webinar, you access it through a web browser, either locally, or via the VRM website (it also works via your phone, which is awesome, you can access it from anywhere in the world). The Venus-GX and the Raspberrypi options all have the same web/remote console. The CCGX has an LCD screen and buttons on it as well, for physical access. The Venus-GX has a much faster CPU. The CCGX is somewhat older, single-core 600Mhz ARM processor with DDR2 RAM that is off-chip. The Venus-GX is essentially a beaglebone black on steriods. Do what I did: Use cheap crappy batteries (well, not so cheap and crappy that they burn the house down), even second hand if you can, and just don't discharge them very deeply. Throw them out when they go bad (once a year, usually) and get another cheap set. It depends how much money you want to throw at it. If you want to do it in phases: 1. Get the inverter, some mid-range/cheap batteries, and the mk3-usb dongle so you can program the inverter settings and play with the assistants. Install it as a pure UPS setup. Run it like that for a month or two. 2. Get an MPPT and some solar panels. There is a way to use assistants to run from solar above a certain voltage. Not perfect, but works well enough, and works exactly like the Axpert does when you don't have ICC (except you have more control over how it works). 3. Get a Venus-GX, install the ESS assistant on the Multi and configure that. 4. Optionally get a grid meter/energy meter (most likely the Carlo Gavazzi ET112). 5. Around Christmas 2019, buy yourself a nice LFP bank. That is more or less how I see it, though you can of course combine and skip steps.
  25. It is allowed. It uses the current sensor on the input of the Multi instead of an external meter (you just have to configure it to not use the grid meter, under Settings->ESS on the CCGX/Venus-GX). The upside: No need to buy a energy meter. And the control loop runs inside the Multi instead of the CCGX, so it regulates a bit faster. The downside: All loads needs to be on (one of) the outputs. Remember that everything up from 3kva has two outputs. The second output goes down with the grid, only the first output (critical loads) runs from the inverter, but the power of both outputs reflects on the input and hence ESS compensates for loads on both. You just have to be sure your loads are below the maximum limits (50A total usually, which is close to the 60A breakers most single-phase houses have). So simply put your geyser and the other large loads on the second output. I think there is still an advantage to using a current meter, because it leaves your house wiring mostly untouched (except for the circuits for the critical loads that you have to split out).
  26. Plonkster/Colin Yippie, I removed the cable from the CAN and everything is working now. THANKS everyone for your help and input, really appreciate it, now I can see what my system is up to Regards Leon
  27. From what I see there's not that big of a difference and seeing how Tshwane allows it, I suppose it's best to have the option available. So grid it hopefully is. Makes sense and I must say I like the CCGX especially after watching the webinar, so that's almost a must for me from the start. And as I'll be going 48V I'll most likely wait a couple of months longer and get a LFP in any case. I found out yesterday that she's been telling everyone already, so I think I'm OK. Internet wise, yip. Luckily most cell companies also have generators, so should the fibre go down I should be OK with the LTE backup. This was just a long shot in hoping that I can delay the battery purchase and start using PV. The idea is to have PV -> MPPT -> Inverter knowing that it will go down should the grid go down, but at least using it while saving up for the battery instead of only buying everything at once. By the looks of it it's not possible, but I just thought about it. I actually don't see why not have the ESS system as it's exactly what I want.
  28. Back to the rest of all the answers: I think based on the idea of wanting to be able to expand the best would be to go 48V although that means having to get a 48V battery which may delay getting it all, but that'll be the better option I suppose. For what I'm looking at I agree. Just a small generator for starters until I can afford the rest. Thanks! The little that I do know I've learnt reading forums, so that makes sense. Hopefully somewhere down the line someone with the same idea can have a look at this and get answers.
  1. Load more activity