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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/04/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    The Rolls Royce, Axpert
  2. 1 point

    way off base... which truck to get???

    my 1st one was my office for 3 years and brought in over R5m of work and only cost me like R119k, paid for itself in 1 month. they drive like a car, i just love them... i can let you know when i am going to trade one in on a newer one.......lol
  3. 1 point

    way off base... which truck to get???

    depending on your load type, i love using the M/B Vito vans. My one has done on average 14000kms per month for the last 4 years, serviced every 2 to 3 months, engine never been opened. I have two of them, 1 is a panel van and the other the crew cab...with over 700kg's of batteries to Ceres at a constant 140kms per hour......
  4. 1 point

    Multi strings

    My system does however have high voltage, high quality diodes to prevent one half of the array feeding back to the other panels, just thought I would mention that. An extra layer of protection.
  5. 1 point
    I think he said he wants the backup. I suppose the important thing is you have to understand that at present backup is still a luxury. It costs extra money to have it. If you're okay with that, then go for it. Many people with home offices absolutely need the backup, but then you're doing the sums at the hourly professional rates you charge, and that is by far the quickest ROI you'll ever get. That's also a discussion we've had at least three times already :-) Generally there is an inverse proportion between the maximum discharge rate of the battery and its expected lifetime, in other words, there are trade-offs. The design of a battery that can do sustained discharged of 0.5C (ie from full to emty in 30 minutes) generally means it will wear out a little quicker. Conversely, batteries designed towards the other end (eg Pylontech which has a C/2 sustained discharge rate, from full to empty in 2 hours) will have higher cycle lifes. Most LFP batteries are rated at at least 2000 cycles to 70% DoD, and almost all of them will do better than that when used at the lower average discharge rates used in houses. So I think it is fair to assume that you will at the very least get 2000 cycles out of your battery, at which point the battery won't be dead... the definition of EOL is that it has irreversibly lost 20% of its capacity. So ten years is not an unreasonable lower limit. Another data point: Early data from Tesla car owners (note, different battery chemistry) suggest the batteries do last longer than their rated cycle life, sometimes as much as 50%. There is some creative accounting going on in the business as well. One particular supplier -- they make a good battery but you have to keep this in mind -- rates their batteries at C10, and quote 7000 cycles or something like that. That's around 20 years. I'm a tiny bit skeptical about that. So just picking a number in the middle, you'll probably be good for 12-15 years with any of the LFP batteries on the market. It is too soon to say if it will really do 6000 cycles. What is true though is that a Pylontech rack of a comparable capacity now costs about the same as a large lead acid bank, and even if it only lasts 2000 cycles it still beats the lead-acids by about a year or two in lifetime. Question though, if I recall previous discussions, this inverter does allow you to go up to 7kw on each phase as long as the grid is there to make up the difference, right? Because it that is the case... then there is no problem here right? Certainly the inverter I suggested (3kva Multi) can do this, it will allow almost 12kva as long as the grid is there, but if the grid drops out then obviously you're limited to 3kva. It sounds to me like you can just put the inverter of choice in where you wanted to... and just put the whole house on the inverter output. Then just make arrangements to have the large loads disconnected when there is an outage so you don't have a geyser turning on and tripping out the inverter.
  6. 1 point
    I started out on this journey as my town suffers from repeated blackouts for various reasons. I am retired and only wanted it for convenience sake and as a backup system. Costs were an issue. I finally settled on a infinisolar 4kw hybrid with 4 pylontech batteries and a cabinet. All supplied by Full Circle Solar. I love the way the pylontechs manage themselves. They charge at 49 amps irrespective of how much they have been depleted. My house runs on two circuits - one for the high amp side directly from the municipality (or 7kw generator via change over switch) and the convenience low amp side via the inverter (which also cleans up the power). This side runs idling at 6% but can go up to 95% when the borehole pump runs to fill the 10kl tanks. It handles the booster pump comfortably as it is an energy efficient model. The rest is on computers, router, lights, fridges, tv and a gas hot water system for two main bathrooms. I still haven’t run a trial to see how long it can sustain the output before shutting down. The low amp side can also be diverted to run from mains only via a seperate change over switch. You can follow my posts. Advice from me is the following: Start thinking in amps. Measuere all the currents - startup, running and maximum per device. I bought a true rms clamp meter for this purpose. This exercise will show you what your real needs are. Consider splitting your db into a low amp and a high amp part. I did this at great expense but it was worth all the sweat and costs. It sorted out several issues I never even knew about as I have an old farm house. This also gave me the opportunity to modernise everything. Bear in mind that surfix wiring allows you to make really quick wiring changes inside your roof. This will also ensure that you can look at your earthing systems. I used 10mm wire between the db and the inverter as I could buy it per metre, 6mm would work easier but then you need to buy 100m rolls. I also used bootlace ferrels everywhere which make for good connections. My system has been running well for a few months now. I don’t know about power failures anymore. When it happens in the morning we simply make breakfast on a gasbraai on the stoep. Same for coffee. Swambo dislikes gas in the kitchen. When you are young you might recoup the costs over a loonng lifetime of usage of 30 years. Don’t trust the calcs by other people as you need to add lifetime costs per item. And this is far from clear. I made my system swambo friendly as she is not technically inclined. On a recent trip to the Kgalagadi (we were out of cell phone range and could not receive alarm warnings or give advice) my system tripped and two men who tried to help could not id a tripped earth leakage. Fortunately they powered the fridges, gates etc from leads. The pylontechs have shut down but I reckoned the power was out for a week. This taught me more lessons. This fault I traced to an outside db which was done by town electricians - still to be fixed but isolated now as I am busy painting the house. Oh, and the house is on shutdown the next break we take as I still cannot fathom how this has happened. Low amp (energy efficient new generation) washing machine, fridges, dryers and solar geysers etc can change your amperage requirements drastically. With the obvious benefit in lowering capital costs and running on a less stressed system (low amps is better by far). Hot water systems can be tied into a gas heater for convenience. Plenty of posts on this.
  7. 1 point
    Yes, a lot to think about. Thats why I came here to get some advice. I wonder how accurate the 6000 cycles on the Lithium Ions is? How many cycles if you cycle between say 90% and 40%. 10000 cycles on 1200 Watts would be 12000 kWh, which is what say R12000 worth of Eskom, so I lost R3000 compared to Eskom? That seems liveable. If I got even better 12000 cycles would be breakeven on the batteries? Or am I miles and miles off on my figures? edit: The pool pump I want to get is the Zodiac Flopro VS which can be programmed to increase power for a cleaning cycle to run the creepy, and run on much lower wattage (motor speed) the rest of the time. It has a very programmable control unit. You can have four different times of day on your choice of motor rpm and therefore watts being consummed. Its also a more efficient motor in the first place. It is not for solar specifically.
  8. 1 point

    Average Wind Database South Africa

    Here we go sir: http://stel-apps.csir.co.za/wasa-img/WIND_ATLAS_GUIDE.pdf If you get a bit stuck with the Google Earth Overlay give me a shout. I struggled a bit to get it working. It is amazing though. You can zoom in any where. It is however only for WC I believe. Gents if I may promote my business after 5 years of keeping the forum up. hahah. I am a Pilot and I love any thing Propellers. I love wind Turbines. I am at www.pegasus-systems.co.za and some videos at : https://www.facebook.com/pegasussystems/ Wind Turbines are my passion. I see them as battery savers in the night (too Avoid deep discharges) and also very useful at the coast and valley mountain areas. I never recommend them if the ROI is to high when taking into account the saving on Battery and so. I am terribly sorry for promoting my own business. Its against my ethos. But I love them very much. My margins are slim :>> . Dont go Zohaan! Go Pegasus! These machines are built for 20 years , with normal maintenance. Thanks guys for letting me post this. Sincerely Jason