Jump to content

Peter Topp

Members
  • Posts

    209
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

Everything posted by Peter Topp

  1. Hi Peetvstaden You can only run the Max 3KVA as this is the specification for that unit. The bypass relay is only safe for that load. It is designed so that should the power fail at any time it will handle the load at that present time. It would not be wise to run the inverter continually at full load. The way to get past this limitation is to install an appropriate bypass switch to isolate the inverter output when there is power, allowing you to manually switch over to the inverter output once you have lowered the load to accommodate the inverter. This would be done the same way you would use a switch for a generator.
  2. Hi After reading up on the Heterotrophic plate count there are indications that the count should be less than 500 however, a larger count does not mean that the water is a problem as the bacteria could be harmless. If you want to eliminate and lower this you can implement the following. A UV light source would be the best bet as it damages the DNA in the microbes. Adding an activated carbon filter also helps. Using continuous chlorination, however, the chlorine will have to be reduced by carbon filters before it is drinkable and helps with the taste. Excess chlorine is not good for you. Doing reverse osmosis will also help to remove bacteria. You could also boil the water for consumption before anything else is implimented in you are worried which also works.
  3. Hi Raiden 2912 After going through your report your water looks perfect for consumption. The only figure that is not in specification is the turbidity (cloudiness). This can be due to being a new borehole with still some solids and is common with newly drilled boreholes. This can be overcome just by putting in some filters to trap the solids. The turbidity should improve as the borehole is used over time. As far as the ph. goes you cannot get better as it is totally neutral ph7 which is not acid and not alkaline and will not damage anything. I don't know if a report analysis was attached. This is all I can see from the report. I am not an expert at this and I might have missed something. I suggest you should have the borehole checked again after a year or two as in my case the ph. had changed after a year. I think the HCO3 (bicarbonate) value would be the amount of carbon dioxide dissolved in the water which makes it more acidic and would be more prevalent in rainwater as it absorbs CO2 on the way down. I do not think it has any bearing on the report as the ph. is 7 (I could be wrong).
  4. Hi The Tescom SSPro 5kva inverters do not have a pv input. Attached are the user specifications. 92114_PDF1.pdf
  5. Hi The calculation was done on a 150mm diameter pipe for 3m so I believe the Boere myth is truly busted.
  6. Hi A bladder tank not only does the things you mention above not only for the shock but also allows you to use about 50% of the capacity of the tank before the pump starts. I am not convinced the pipe will not be able to stop the frequent on/off cycles as it does not have the external pressure on the pipe to make much difference that a pressure tank has on the bladder. I see what you are saying there will be a little pressure from the pressure exerted on the pipe for it to expand from the water pressure as water cannot be compressed, then released when a tap is opened (only if you use a pipe that will expand and contracts and returns to form). However, it still does not compare to a pressure tank to stop frequent stop-and-start cycles. The mathematics says that to get a 10L difference which will need to expand 10mm over 3 meters to make a difference. I do not think a 115mm pipe would expand by a 10mm diameter and contract. 5mm for 5L etc.
  7. Hi Scorp007 How will this work? as soon as you open a tap the pressure drops it will start the pump. A pressure tank works because of the two setpoints for the start and stop of the pump from the pressure switch, as well as the 1.8bar pressure on the bladder.
  8. Hi Raidon2912 The question you asked about low municipal water use. Water usage is split into two. Water use and sewer. So, you pay twice for the water used. If you use no municipal water, you will definitely have questions asked and, or a visit. Even if you use no water from the municipality you need to pay the sewer fee. To overcome this, I have a parallel system and I throttle my municipal use to show some water usage. Most of my water is used for irrigation of my garden and I can use up to 60Kl a month. Irrigation water is only partially filtered and the household water from the JoJo tank is fully filtered and tested for consumption. I irrigate directly from the borehole pump which you can view from my other posts under sustainable landscaping. VSD pressure pumps are much better as using a pressure vessel with a standard pump needs to be checked and is like checking your car tires and is a hassle as the pressure tank needs to be empty with no water pressure when tested or pressurized. Setting the pressure switch can also be a hassle. VSD pressure pumps use less power, and the pressure can be set much easier with pump dry protection. This being said if you have the budget, and you already have a pump.
  9. Hi Raiden2912 Seeing you have 10100 litres capacity I do not see any problems with the flow of water into the borehole as it filled the tanks. If your .75kw motor is not strong enough to pump the well so that the flow is reduced to just filling, the borehole tests I mentioned will not be able to be done with any meaningful results. The picture you request is I suppose for a bladder tank (pressure tank) which I have attached. The pressure tank will also need the appropriate switch on the pump to work correctly. The pressure tank can also be part of the motor assembly.Pressure-Tanks-2021-V1.pdfPressure-Tanks-2021-V1.pdfPressure-Tanks-2021-V1.pdfPressure-Tanks-2021-V1.pdfPressure-Tanks-2021-V1.pdfPressure-Tanks-2021-V1.pdf I have also attached my calculations on how I worked out my flow rate and borehole capacity. Borehole Capacity Test 26072022.docx
  10. Hi Raiden2912 Just a suggestion. Before you decide to pump for a long time, make sure the borehole is filling enough to fill the borehole. You will need to know how much water your borehole actually produces. You can ask and pay to have this done or you could test this yourself by measuring the amount of water used over a specific period with an inline meter, eg, over an hour. You can also monitor the output over a long period that you want and see if the output drops. When the borehole is full (at the top of the water table) it will take time to empty the borehole to see the actual flow of water into the borehole. This is directly from the borehole pump not from the jojo. If the flow does not drop it would be great as this means that the borehole is filling faster than it can be pumped out. If the flow drops it can be measured again over a shorter period to determine the actual flow from the filling borehole. This is important as you can burn out your borehole pump if the borehole is pumped dry if there is no protection for this. Also adding another comment on VSD or DC pumps. If you do not use these pumps on the output of your JoJo tank, it would be advisable to put a bladder tank in line with the pump as cheaper standard pumps do not like to be started many times over a short period (shortens the lifetime of the pump). The bladder tank stops this by setting a lower switch on pressure for starting and a higher switch off at a set pressure. Depending on the size of the tank about 50% of the size of the bladder tank must be used before the pump switches on. This prevents switching on using small amounts of water usage. I have done these tests on my borehole and I can only pump for 1hr15min before my borehole is empty and my flow drops. I hope this helps.
  11. Hi Tracsec I have had similar problems with many light switches. This problem for me I have found that the light switches in my house are in metal housings as it an old house. I suspect the metal housing which is earthed is shielding the signal. Some of my problems were overcome by not screwing in the switches on tight. This I found helped in most cases. I did remove the switches and made sure the electronic connections were good. In the beginning, I sent 3 units back to the supplier and found out after they were tested it was found there was no problem with the switches. These light switches were Eachen switches that do not require a neutral. I know how annoying it can be as at one stage I had four lights that switched intermittently. I cannot say this is your problem, but it might be worth a try.
  12. Hi Sorry, it should have read 29.2v and 28.2, not 19.2v and 18.2v. Posted late last night and was tired.
  13. Hi Last year my daughter needed an inverter for her flat due to severe load shedding. She only needed lights, the Internet and the TV. I advised her to buy a small inverter with a lithium battery pack. Not wiser she settled on the GENTECH GPP1600 trolly inverter (which is an Axpert 2000vA inverter rebranded) as it is an all-in-one. 7 months later the batteries have given up. I had a look at the default settings and this is what I found. The default Low Cut Off Voltage is set to 19.8v for a 2x 12v in series (24v). This value is ridiculous as the battery is completely dead at this value. The 25% value for gel batteries is about 24V. The value cannot also be set higher than 23.8v. The warranty of the batteries in the unit is only for 7 days and can be seen below and on their website. I advise to anybody wanting to buy this type of unit to avoid it as you will lose your batteries. I have replaced the batteries with lithium batteries. The only problem is the bulk charging (CV voltage) voltage which should be set at 19.2v can only be set to 18.2v maximum. GENTECH POWER 1600-WATT SOLAR HYBRID INVERTER SYSTEM SKU: GPINVERTER2 1600-Watt Solar Hybrid Inverter Head I 12 Months Warranty I Gentech Power Gel Battery I 7 Days Limited Warranty DISCLAIMER: Flat batteries and or reduced running time are not covered by the manufacturer’s warranty. Should you experience a reduction in running time please recharge the batteries for ± 48 hours or consider purchasing new ones. Premature damage to the battery due to improper use is not covered by the manufacturer warranty. It must be noted that lead acid, AGM and gel batteries are not ideally suited for frequent, long, and deep discharges as currently experienced with load shedding. These types of batteries require a minimum of 48-72 hours of uninterrupted charging after each discharge to ensure they perform as specified. Load shedding directly reduces the capacity, performance and life span of these batteries which are beyond the manufacturers control. The Gentech Power Battery charge cycles are rated to last as follows: 100% Depth of Discharge = +- 350 Charge Cycles 80% Depth of Discharge = +- 520 Charge Cycles 50% Depth of Discharge = +- 730 Charge Cycles Due to the current and continuous load shedding, these cycles can be depleted between 3 to 6 months. Once these charge cycles are depleted, the battery will have reached its “end of life” and will need to be replaced immediately. We recommend that during Load Shedding Stage 3 – 6 that the inverter power switch is turned “OFF”. Only use the inverter when urgently required. Battery Warranty Disclaimer: Due to excessive load shedding this battery carries a limited warrantee of 7 days only. It is designed to perform as specified. The lifespan of this battery is pre-determined by the amount of charge and discharge cycles it will undergo over a period. These cycles are considered normal “wear and tear” and are not covered by the manufacturer warranty policy. Regular charging / discharging cycles will have a direct impact on the performance and or running time of this battery. Please refer to the performance and discharge data below. Please charge for 48 hours prior to use.
  14. Hi There is another thing I noticed is that in old houses the switches are in a metal housing which has caused problems for me. If I tighten the Eachen switch too tight I have problems with the lights going intermittently. I also think the metal housing acts as a shield for the wifi signal.
  15. Hi You must install the capacitors or the system will not work at all.
  16. Hi Guy It depends on which meter you have. Some meters cannot distinguish whether you are using power or giving it back and in this case, you will pay the same as using power. There is nothing you can do about this. The only way to stop this is to stop feeding back altogether to the grid or if you have an inverter with a ct like the Deye or Sunsynk inverter you stop the power from feeding back. Other meters as I have will turn backward and will reduce your consumption. The newer electronic meters have a sign on them with a rachet gear to show you cannot feed back to the grid. Some people use the excess power to heat their geyser elements and other devices if they have an auxiliary output on their inverter. Unfortunately, I do not know of any easy fix if there is no auxiliary output or ct on the inverter.
  17. Hi To answer your question. The resistance in ohms in the cable is the same for ac or dc voltage/amps running in the cable. Resistance in a cable is usually measured as resistance (ohms) per meter. So the formula is the same for dc and dc. If you buy the correct cable for an installation the volt drop over the length of the cable should be neglectable. A wrong cable (a cable that cannot handle the amps) will get hot and have a large volt drop and also can be dangerous if it melts the insulation.
  18. Hi Today I installed an alternative to the mechanical pressure switch which is used on most pumps with a pressure tank. These switches need to be able to set for a low-pressure pump switch on and a high-pressure pump switch off. I have replaced the mechanical pressure switch twice. The switch I found to replace this is a digital switch with a digital led readout. It is larger however was easy to fit and programming was relatively easy. The best feature for me was that it has a pump dry cutout that can be set. The switch is a Coelbo Switchmatic 2 which I purchased on special from DIY Direct SA. The pressure switch does not come with the full instructions only a quick setup. I have posted the full instructions here. switchmatic12_en.pdf SWITCHMATIC.pdf
  19. Hi I found a good explanation on the web for why you should not join neutral to earth at your DB or permanently at your inverter. "Why not short neutral and ground locally? What happens if a neutral wire breaks upstream? Everything else downstream of the wire break is trying to return current via neutral. So all that current from all those machines travels the neutral wire to your illegal short, hops to ground, and takes ground back to the main panel, via the official neutral-ground bond, back to source. This means many amperes of current are coming through your little plug. Neutrals don't have fuses, so this burns your house down. What if a ground wire breaks upstream? Normally if a neutral wire breaks, current can no longer return to source, and this has the effect of "floating" the neutral wire at line voltage. If you have also bridged it to ground, now you are also floating the grounding system at line voltage, at least on your machine. Anybody who comes in contact with that gets shocked. What if both neutral and ground take a hit? Similarly what if all wires are cut, and the machine has capacitors, or inductive kickback as it spins down? Again neutral floats up toward line voltage which the system would be able to handle normally. Your bootleg bonding means ground floats too, and shocks people."
  20. Hi P1000 I see you are confused. I had another look. I have had a 3kw inverter with a pwm and after looking at the manual I see they do suggest you can connect in parallel. I do believe you could be correct to install the panels in parallel. My original thinking is that the voltage at its peak will only be about 25v (31.3v-20%) at its peak during the day and by doubling the output to the inverter you could be closer to the 30/32v for most of the day for the best efficiency.
  21. Hi I have a 20-tube retrofit for my 150l geyser. It works well in summer however in winter it is useless as the tubes are older and not that efficient. To fix this I feed the 150l liter geyser into a gas geyser and set the gas geyser to 50 degrees as not to add cold water. I do have a Geyserwise controller and have changed my element in the geyser to 1.5kw to save the Geyserwise relay. I switch the element off and when the gas geyser gave me trouble I used the element as a backup. That said you can still use your element with a Geyserwise controller to increase your temperature and you can do this at any time by setting the timers or even do it manually without a gas geyser. If you do not want to use electricity ever then I suppose the shade cloth will work best.
  22. Hi GraigZA The four 280w panels will suffice for your inverter.
  23. Hi To my knowledge inverter's pv input work best between certain voltages. My best guess for this inverter as I have no manual the pv voltage should be close to 30/32v to work the best. If this is true putting the panels all in parallel would limit your available power. In this case, 2 panels in a series would give you the earliest power output during the day.
×
×
  • Create New...