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  1. Energy-Jason

    Powerforum Give Away

    Congratulations to @hoohloc you have been randomly selected and the winner of a RIOT. Pdf attached. Well done!!! We will be having more give aways very soon! Please PM us your delivery details. Jay riot_cloudlink__a4_pamphlet_electronic_fa.pdf
    9 points
  2. Hello All. To celebrate passing the 10k user mark we will be having a give away to the value of R4900 to a randomly selected active forum member. This will happen on Monday. Stay Tuned! Sincerely Jay
    7 points
  3. Just received my gift today and so excited to give it a try. Thank you powerforum
    5 points
  4. I agree with a combination approach, also agreed that simplest is best. So a fire pit with a donkie, fed with the branches of the tree that was cut down because it shaded the panels.
    5 points
  5. Battery backup solution for a client who wanted an 8kw Sunsynk with a Hubble AM2. Inverter is limited to 95A discharge which is below the 100A on the battery so the inverter will protect the battery before the BMS has to.
    4 points
  6. Wow. This thread really went pear shaped for a while. Seems like every pylontech vs… ends up like that. Strange that Hubble went from a 10 year warranty, down to a 5 year and then back to 10 years. Any idea why this was the case. @LeshenAs far as I know, the pylontech US5000 has always been a 5 year warranty, so they haven’t really reduced. It was designed as such so I think it’s a bit unfair to state that they have reduced the warranty on this. Bottom line is every manufacturer has some conditions and many will try to get out of warranty replacement if the product was not used as intended. On the other side there are people that will buy 1 battery and expect it to do the job of 5. For me personally, Hubble is still very new. It may be a great battery but only time will tell. Pylontech has been in our market for far longer and there are many people using them. Some of them may have had issues. Which is normal. If we have to compare the number of pylons in the market, it will far exceed Hubble and bsl. After some time we will start hearing stories about Hubble and bsl too and people will be upset. I keep hearing about issues with the US3000C but maybe I’m just lucky as I have not had any, I started with 2 US3000, then added a US3000C and didnt experience and issues. Last week replaced the US3000 as I gave that to someone else and I now have 4 US3000C without any issues. I am planning to get 2 more for a total of 21Kwh of storage. Price wise, Hubble and BSL could not match the price vs capacity I’m getting with Pylontech. I don’t care about the 1C but rather about max storage. If one is on a tight budget, then sure the 1C makes a difference and then perhaps the Hubble will be fine. For how long, only time will tell. For me, pylontech is an established international brand. Pretty good chance they going to be around in 5 or 10 years to consider the warranty. Hubble is a local brand, how sure are we that they will still be around in 5 or 10 years… given the state of our country and the crap that we are forced to live with. I’m not even sure I will be around here in 5 or 10 years. Batteries are a huge investment. A warranty means nothing if the company goes bust. That’s just my biggest concern when spending almost 100k on batteries.
    4 points
  7. When this thread started several moons ago who ever thought it would result in such enriching discussions. Thanks to @Igubu @JaseZA @Rooney Hat @YellowTapemeasure and everyone else that's been contributing so much knowledge, sharing their experience, and providing wisdom. Together we'll beat the power woes!
    4 points
  8. Hubble Lithium AM-4 Warranty 2021 v4.pdf Hubble Lithium AM-2 Warranty 2021 v4.pdf
    4 points
  9. Did this battery backup solution for a client. 1 x Kodak inverter paired with a Hubble AM2. Nice thing about the Hubble is that you only need 1 x AM2 which can deliver 5kw which matches the Kodak 5kw inverter.
    4 points
  10. As requested. Anything else you would like from Hubble? Hubble Lithium AM-2 Warranty (1).pdf
    4 points
  11. I was also threatened. Harassed. Abused. And threatened again. I played totally idiotic and when the chief engineer of SSEG called me and asked who installed my systems I said I did and asked why. He asked if I had the qualifications and documents and I said no. Then he threatened to take me to court. Only then did I tell him I am a mechanical engineer (retired) with years of expertise, and have decades of electronics design experience. Took his email address and mailed him the CoC. That made him shut up. About 6 weeks later I received the approval letter. I hate government employees and politicians.
    4 points
  12. @Brani @ThatGuy So, my new battery was ready on Tuesday as promised. My installer could only collect and install today. He told me when he arrived that Hubble had confirmed that the old faulty battery apparently had an inactive cell, which is why they replaced it. So, a definite positive there as they provided an entirely new battery - only downside was the time to replace - as mentioned before, I have some sympathy given current circumstances, but felt the communication could have been better. Of course, the faulty cell is also slightly concerning, but apparently this is very rare. As it was only installed today, I have had limited time to assess new performance. However, on limited data (using the method I described before), the 2 batteries I have look like they are performing at about 1kwH per 10%. This is better but still at only about 91% of expected performance, main caveat being the limited time to assess performance and reduce the effects of rounding. I will monitor this more closely over the next few days to get a better handle on it and report back.
    4 points
  13. Dear Powerforum Members We produce and post at least 1 Sunsynk tutorial video a week on our YouTube channel. We will also be posting videos on other inverters such as Growatt, Axpert etc.. including battery videos focusing on Lithiums. Here is our latest video on battery settings:
    4 points
  14. Good afternoon Tsa As per SANS 10142:2006 the maximum allowable current for PVC insulated cables in a single phase installation when the cable is enclosed in conduit fixed to a wall or trunking fixed to a wall are as follows. For Multi-Phase the currents are lower. For GP cable - That is the individual Black, Red, Blue, White, Yellow, Yellow and Green cables which are not bundled together with a second insulation over the individual cores and with 1 solid core or multiple thick strands 1.5 mm2: 17.5A, 2.5 mm2: 24A, 4.0 mm2: 32A, 6.0 mm2: 41A, 10.0 mm2: 57A, 16.0 mm2: 76A, 25.0 mm2: 101A For Surfix and Twin and Earth - A cable with more than 1 cores with 1 solid core or multiple thick strands individually insulated with a second insulation over the individual cores 1.5 mm2: 16.5A, 2.5 mm2: 23A, 4.0 mm2: 30A, 6.0 mm2: 38A, 10.0 mm2: 52A, 16.0 mm2: 69A, 25.0 mm2: 90A The maximum cable operating temperature are not allowed to exceed 70 degree Celsius, if the temperature exceeds 70 degree Celsius a thicker cable must be used. Cabtyre -A flexible cable with thin strands used for appliances, power tools, extension leads etc are not allowed in a DB. The gap between the clamp of the MCB and the start of the insulation may not exceed 2mm. There is also a limit of the number of cables entering or leaving an MCB and that limit is 3. Another point that is misunderstood is that the MCB protects the cable and not the load supplied by the cable. If a cable leaving the DB is joined and the cable that is joined is thicker or thinner than the other cable then the MCB must be rated for the thinner cable, for example a gate motor is to be installed and the cable leaving the house is 2.5 mm2 but you cannot get a 2.5 mm2 cable only 1.5 mm2 is available then the MCB must be rated for the 1.5mm2 cable. Circuits are not allowed to be mixed on the MCB's eg Lights and Socket outlets on the same MCB. Open spaces in the cover of the DB must be closed off so that you are protected from a electric shock and to keep insects, bugs, spiders, bees and wasps out of the DB. MCB's must be marked with indelible ink or a proper label which is not easily removed. If a DB is supplied by another DB then the sub DB and the supplying DB must be properly marked the same way MCB's are marked. A Switch Dis-connector (isolator) must disconnect both L & N for single phase installations and all P's & N for multi-phase installations. A 2 pole or 4 pole MCB are not allowed to be used as a switch dis-connector (isolator). A MCB must trip all P's for multi-phase installations if there is a over current in any of the phases. An Earth leakage must disconnect both L & N for single phase installations and all P's & N for multi-phase installations PS CB is short for Miniature Circuit Breaker.
    4 points
  15. It seems like a new website has popped up: https://powersolutionrsa.co.za/ Creation Date: 2021-05-17T10:14:13Z About Us Founded in 2013, The Watt Store, was launched as an E-Commerce website specializing in Solar Power and Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) products. We are based in South Africa. Our access to a huge amount of stock coupled with our 30+ years of experience and expert knowledge means that we are able to provide reliable, comprehensive advice and complete solutions.
    3 points
  16. 2x Victron MPII, 6x US3000C, 3x Victron 250/85 MPPT, Cerbo & GX Touch, Panel meters monitoring PV string current & voltage, ICC & Pi monitoring individual batteries. Added a circuit to switch in additional geyser to utilize excess solar with Cerbo generator start function.
    3 points
  17. Brani

    Tile roof - advise needed

    The bottom of the tile should have been grinded off, your installer was lazy.
    3 points
  18. That's true. He designed and specified my full system, every single thing down to the very last nut and bolt, and then recommended a great installer as well. During the delivery period he was constantly in touch with me, communicating progress, and after the install as well, to find out if I was still happy. I was deeply impressed, one seldom receives such a great level of service these days. Legendary indeed!
    3 points
  19. My Recommendations would be if I understand your terminology correctly you have a 700 Watt base load and a 1.5KW peak load not KVA as that is calculated with a power factor.. So based on that premise you can do the calculations as follows Load 700 Watt runtime 4-6 hours lets work on 6 6 x 700 watt =4200 watt this tells us you need a battery that can store and produce 4200 watt of useable power so the battery you can look at is a BSLB 6.4 KWH or a Hubble AM2 5.5 KWH the Bull has a theoretical capacity of 6400 watt @100% dod and the hubble 5500 watt @100% both batteries are 1C which means they can charge and discharge at their capacity 125 amp @ 48v for the Bull and 115 amp @ 48v for the Hubble you may use a little additional capacity for the peak load of 1.5KW but its negligible. Now for the Choice of the inverter.. Your Continues load of 700W and peak of 1.5KW dictates a small inverter but will limit you to expanding your system so the recommend system and this is based on value for money is a 3KW Axpert clone inverter but they have a lot of limitations 1 MPPT limited solar power short warranty 2 to 3 years and they are basically designed as battery backup solutions or you Could look at a True Hybrid inverter like a Sunsynk Solis Kodak or Goodwe all are decent hybrids 5 year warranty you scope or aim will dictate what you need also note any 3kw Axpert inverter is 24v and not worth wasting money on the Kodak 3KW Hybrid as an example is 48v and will work with the suggested batteries they also have duel 500v MPPTs which is more flexible however a 5KW Sunsynk is probably going to be your best choice.
    3 points
  20. Hi Martin Sounds like you need not such a big system. There are many people whom go for small sub 3kW 24V systems hooked up to Lead Acid battery usually 2 of them to make up the 24V requirements. The problems with these systems are that the quality usually of the especially Voltronics or Axpert as they are also called is not that great for the money paid. Then also the money spent is not much of a saving when compared to a say 5kW 48V system. Then let's get to the Installation side. After people have made this choice they integrate it with their home electrical DB box & then it gets interesting. The 3Kw inverter can run quite a few essentials TV, lights modem & some nice to haves. The minute you turn a Kettle on which in some case can range up to 2500 to 3000 watts then the action begins. Everything goes dark. Because the system is overloaded with the lights & other essentials being powered it cannot do everything at once. However, the 5kW has some more breathing space & the cash spent on this inverter is not so crazily outrageously more money. In the 5kW kettle scenario your system has the room to power all of these at once. If you can afford it go Lithium. The Leadacids are just not as long lasting. The Lithium options also offer bettery protection in terms of a battery management/ monitoring system which will keep an eye on your batteries. Lithium has more cycle life +- 4000-6000 cycles if taken care of. The Leadacids if hurt or discharged inappropriately to a too large a level can be permanently damaged & then you have a very heavy paper weight & no money in hand. Just my 2c worth. Welcome to the Forum 87
    3 points
  21. The Guys at Riot are in constant state of development as far as I know you will get charge discharge rates capacity and so on from Pylontech and some basic Info not as detailed as the Hubble apparantly Pylontech is very protective on their code for their BMS etc the version of Riot Iam getting comes with a very accurate 3 phase meter that can be used to remotely monitor loads in stand alone mode and the Sunsynks MODBUS code will be added too it soon so I will be able to get far more accurate readings from the inverter and battery. So yes it will work with Pylontech but with more limited information on the battery.
    3 points
  22. Then I would rather go for the BSLB POWER WALL 10.2 KW check the forum store they have a special on it we all know its a reasonably good product..
    3 points
  23. Unfortunately not:( cant find much detail on that device, but have a feeling it’s a RS485-serial/usb converter. So might “talk” to your axpert, but the intelligence comes from the bms side- and doubt the said bms will have the same level of detail to feed and control the inverter. There is no quick fix or easy way to fake “can/rs485” comms unfortunately. It is Very complicated to get right- the reason so much money is spent on certification for any specific brand of battery to be compatibly with the different inverter brands. The guys building batteries will tell you the same- it’s months and months of work/coding/testing etc If you want to future proof- get rid of the axpert, Buy something decent like a 5 or 8kW sunsynk/deye (full hybrid inverter) - and start with a battery like the am-2 hubble or similar.. efficiencies of hybrids vs - lets be honest and call the axperts what they are : “cheap and nasty” - is a long other topic…. Of course this all costs money- but if you look at backup power as a requirement for the next couple of years, rather invest in the correct kit now that will last 5-10years, have 5 & 10 Y guarantees- for 30% more upfront - or go as cheap as you can and in 2 years have to replace it all again… Whats that saying “goedkoop koop Is duur koop” - thats why these forums exist I suppose- for free advice from users who's already done it all (a few times)
    3 points
  24. Not only ambient: all batteries have internal resistance, which generate heat proportional to the square of the current. So, charging at 1C for 1 hour will heat the battery up 10 times more than charging it at 0.1C for 10 hours. I suspect that this is a big part of the reason why Pylon do not want you to charge/discharge at 1C.
    3 points
  25. When reading the conditions of the warrantee it seems that you cannot claim for a battery that could still supply 50% of its capacity as it is not considered faulty. Also looking at the last part of conditions it seems if these batteries are not kept below 25 degrees the warrantee cannot be honored. This is problematic for South African conditions as the ambient temperatures easily exceeds 25 degrees in summer.
    3 points
  26. AFAIK a cycle means that you discharge the battery by 1C (or by the usable kwh, since most bms's will shut off at around 90%) So say you have a 10kwh battery (of which 90% is usable), if you discharge it by 9kwh and then charge it by 9kwh it will be one cycle. If you only discharge and charge 1kwh every day you will only be completing one cycle every 9 days. If you, as in your example above, discharge 8kwh, charge 4kwh, and then discharge 4kwh in one day that will be a total discharge of 12kwh so it will be one and a third of a cycle. So 3000 cycles will be 3000 x the usable kwh (or whatever percentage of the total kwh the manufacturer specifies) of the battery. If you reach that throughput before the end of the warranty period, you're out of luck.
    3 points
  27. Vassen

    Sunsynk 8kW

    Mine is the same. it just means you are playing with the settings too much.
    3 points
  28. Then you are in a good shape because the problems arise when you have two Sparkies, one main DB box & then Solar as an additional add on later. Leshen hit the nail on the head with unbalanced loads & charges. No issues to use one phase more than another except costs & Eskom grabbing your cash. So Ultimately in the very very long term you score with a phase powered by a single inverter on each phase. But we live in an expensive world & what that means is that your choices are dictated by your pocket for some normal world type of people. So maybe spend on 2 inverters on a single reworked Essential phase & buy the best bang for your bucks. The other conundrum is that all these inverters must be connected to a single battery bank. So with warranty issues and the like you need quite a substantial battery bank size at that. $$$ starts to build quite a picture & becomes eye watering. Points to ponder to pull the said trigger: 1) It's paying itself back daily. Sometimes to the tune of R5k a month 2) No more loadshedding 3) Increases the value of your home 4) Electricity price is only going one way & option 1 is always getting better. 5) If I told you to buy a luxury car & it would be payed back to you in some financial value monthly over 5/7 years would you take the plunge if it made you grid independent?? Pretty sure you can work these options out in your favour 87
    3 points
  29. Sunsynk, What a awesome inverter. We setup a test bed, as Kieth often talks about and shows on this videos. We then added things like Kettles and Heaters but staying around the total 6000 watts range. The inverter did not even blink. And the BLSB battery did not either.I am running extension cable to all the house appliance one at a time and the inverter is telling me the power usage. Thats great to know that the air fryer is xxxx volts and xx amps. So impressed. Just sharing the excitement...........
    3 points
  30. It was a case of improper installation. Loose connections on AC live wires, AC Surge Arrestor not wired. There are no panels, just battery backup. Just for background, this client had 2 inverters on different phases and both being used as a UPS with each having an AM2 and both BMS’s failed. Was definitely a voltage spike from the inverter. Hubble replaced it free of charge which was great for the client.
    3 points
  31. So the picture I am getting is that there is a bms, but if it does not do its job, it is not the manufacturers fault but somehow the clients fault, hmm interesting deduction.
    3 points
  32. Gnome

    Latest version of ICC?

    What is with all these 1 post wonders suddenly coming onto the forum praising this new "product", I have to say it looks like advertising by a business
    3 points
  33. Hi Eugene. One thing to remember is that Pylontech will not honour a warranty when you pair 1 x 3.5kwh Pylontech with an 8kw or 5kw inverter. Reason is due to the massive return on failed batteries which forced them to change their warranty requirements.
    3 points
  34. The value of a BMS is the same value as an ECU to the modern day automobile. In the past cars did not need these because mainly the vehicles of the day had no electronics or sensors. So when the coolant expansion tank developed a leak you could have cooked the said engine without knowing that the expansion tank had a leak. The same said for the oil sump developing a leak somewhere in the system. The modern day car ECU will probably go into Limp/ Protection mode with a given error code after a diagnostic tool is plugged in. The BMS does the same except saves your from taking up a multimeter to measure voltage over 4 to 16 odd cells constantly. It has the ability to watch on your behalf & keep things safe. Especially when you consider the Lithium Ion chemistry cells can go into thermal runaway if overcharged without precautions. The BMS will be the gatekeeper & disconnect through a MOSFET or mechanical switch or relay in some cases avoiding such an event well before this threshold is reached. With modern day Lithium batteries State of Charge is not measured by voltage like the old Lead Acids. 52V in a lithium battery can tell you absolutely nothing about how charged the said battery is. So the BMS serves as a Coulomb meter also to give you an accurate SoC. Then when you want to have a fully integrated system where the Inverter & battery share info (CANBUS/ RJ485/ RS232) you have quite good synergy in your energy production. Actually OBDII in motor vehicles also communicate via a CANBUS module much the same protocol as the modern day BMS. Sorry I went a little into too much uselessness 87
    3 points
  35. Saliegh

    REPUTABLE Online supplier

    I just got off the phone with him. Very knowledgeable. Spent 25min chatting to me and will be providing me with a quote.
    3 points
  36. Tariq

    REPUTABLE Online supplier

    Steve at powerforum store, nothing but great service, he is in the Paarl/Cape Town area, he can recommend local installers
    3 points
  37. Coulomb

    Axpert Inverter 5kw

    5000 W compared to 4000 W rated is 25% over; that's the very outside maximum I would ever put on an Axpert. The issue is the poor battery voltage regulation; with more panels, the inverter-charger is more likely to overshoot the battery voltage, and for longer. Also undershoots, but those won't damage the battery, just waste a little usable PV energy. 12.5% over is no problem; 20% is usually OK; 25% is pushing things.
    3 points
  38. I would say that it depends on what size solar system you have and whether you have any room for expansion or if you have available capacity. personally, I advise against evacuated tubes if you have solar already. I installed mine last year before I did my solar inverter install. I installed a 200l thermosyphon system that feeds into the existing 150l geyser which is on a geyserwise. On clear summer days, the system works great where the water easily gets to 80-90-100 degrees. But my solar PV also works great in summer. However, in winter and on a day like today in Gauteng, the water temperature in the 200l tank only managed to increase from 29 degrees to 43 degrees. So 14 degrees change to a 200l (working on best case as water stratifies in the tank) requires around 3.2kwh. If I were to do it again, I’d just add the extra storage tank with a 2kw element and heat it to the max dom solar during the day. I’ve modified my thermostat and I heat the water to 80 degrees. With the evacuated tubes, if you don’t use it for a few days in summer, you have the risk of over heating and having water released through the pressure valve... also the circulation pumps failing.... etc. i like @Leshen idea of the gas geyser as a backup. My neighbor has been without power since yesterday morning. His meter burnt out and he’s struggling to get through to eskom. I’ve run an extension from my house to his to power his essentials. He has a flat plate collector but also has a gas geyser as a backup so at least he has hot water in this really cold weather.
    3 points
  39. The 2 inverters gets connected in Parallel. it is always a good idea to have separate circuit breakers for them. they connect using a parallel cable the one will be selected as master and the second as slave and the master control everything. The Batteries also get connected in parallel. Each inverter should have a fuse on the battery wiring again to isolate the battery from each inverter separately. When you install bigger solar powers than what the inverter can handle the MPPT will have issues. The extra power needs to be throttled back by the MPPT when it is not in use. If you have the ability to export to the grid you can but never more than what the MPPT can handle. It is never a wise idea to install 8kw on a 6kw MPPT the electronics will not be able to handle that. Usually the Solar panels and cables has a 15% efficiency loss. this can be made up by adding to the string but you must always ensure that you stay within the max Open circuit voltage and Max Amps the MPPT can handle. The MPPT on the inverter can handle 6000w at max 500v and max 11A. If you use a JA solar 540w panel with the VOC of 49.9v and the max amp of 13A you are over the Amperage specification. but if you use the JA solar 465w panel you have a a VOC of 50.1V and a max 10.96A. But because the system can handle 6kw 6000/465=12.9 or 13. 13 divided/ 2 gives you an unbalanced string, therefore you must either run 2x6 or 2x7 465x14=6510w The voltage will be 7 x 42.43(VMP)=297V at 11A you must always ensure that the maximum Open circuit voltage is lower than what the inverter can handle, The VMP is the maximum voltage when the panels are under load. The IMP is the maximum Current when the panels are under load. It becomes very technical but if you have shading you will not run at maximum and more panels can be added but must be done carefully, the same apply for cable losses and panel inefficiencies. Personally I would never add more than 10% above what the MPPT wattage is specified for. In this inverter 6600w. Installation is an area where there is a lot of things that must be considered. Type of roof, height of roof direction of roof, roof area, Roof construction inside(will it handle the extra weight). 2nd DB construction, is it easy accessible where will the inverter and battery sit, does the db need a replacement of all the circuit breakers is the house wiring up to code or does it still have old paper wiring. what will be powered. Earth testing to determine if new earthing needs to be done. I don't want to scare you, I want to educate you. Most of the work can be done DIY if you know how to use tools. If you don't know the basics of electricity learn that first The reason Why installation costs is so expensive is because there are a lot of unknowns and the installer needs to carry the guarantee if anything goes belly up. I started small with a 3kw inverter 4 batteries and 2 solar panels. I do have electronics and electrical background and installed it myself. I now have 12 panels and a 5kw inverter and a big Lithium battery.
    3 points
  40. Hi Vassen. Connect your battery bank to both inverters via a busbar. To commission, start the inverters using only DC, leave AC off. Then on the Master, tick parallel, tick master, SN01, phase A. On the slave, tick parallel, tick slave, SN02, phase A. You only need the BMS cable from the master inverter to the battery bank, all setting will be done on the master and it will transfer to the slave via the parallel cable. Once all settings are complete, turn on AC breaker on Grid side and last AC breaker on load side.
    3 points
  41. The sunsynk 8kw inverter is a good choice. Most of the threads here about it is more questions on functionality than issues with the inverter as well as installers not being familiar of the inverters capabilities. Mine has been installed for 10 months now and only issues were around a software update. Since then it's been working flawlessly and generated 11.67MW. Saving me nearly R30k in the process. It works with most brands of lithium batteries. Has a number of configuration options including the ability to add a micro inverter, wind turbine or generator. It has 3 connections. Bidirectional grid connection where power can be sent back to non essential loads. The load connection is the main or essential connection The aux is a configurable input or output depending on how you want to use it. This could be used for a generator, micro inverter or wind turbine input or it could be configured as an output as a second non essential output. Of you decide on a sunsynk then go with an accredited sunsynk installer as every installer that's out there and only worked on axpert type inverters will not be able to advise you on all of its functions and capabilities.
    3 points
  42. Hi Mark. Go for the Sunsynk. Better after sales support.
    3 points
  43. BatteryView_us_series_3.0.24.zip.7z Pylontech Low Voltage Battery Mornitoring and Maintenance Tool Guidance(1).pdf us_c_v2.1_Crc.bin us3000a_V2.8_Crc.bin US_C 2.1 is for US3000C US3000A 2.8 is for US3000B Cheers
    3 points
  44. I can confidently tell you, after dealing with Hubble, that they really provide a great product and service. Their AM range of batteries have BYD (est 1995) cells which are tried and tested. As an installer, we deal directly with Hubble, however we definitely don’t deal directly with Pylontech. As I mentioned in a previous thread, 2 x AM2’s BMS’s failed and Hubble’s engineers suspected a voltage surge which damaged the BMS, however without any questions asked, they were replaced. I think that says a lot. Yes Hubble haven’t been around for very long however all companies started off being new. Regarding Pylontech (est 2009), I don’t like that they can’t produce a 1C battery (due to cost) and I know many members here think that’s insignificant, but it really is in a couple of ways. Whether Hubble will be around in 10 years time, I think so, as they are looking into Lithium Titanate chemistry. They are also designing their own BMS to work with second life cells which will be much cheaper. Exciting stuff as China, America and Europe don’t want second life cells so it will be dumped into Africa.
    3 points
  45. Nice explanation. Too bad some won’t want to understand what you mean. Hubble’s BMS is rated at 125A. Cells can easily deliver 150A however it’s limited to 100A. For this to be achieved, all internals have to handle this high current draw so thicker connectors, cabling etc etc. In other words, better quality internals. The average individual doesn’t know when the grid is down and they often switch on a kettle and a microwave together and any 5kwh 0.5C battery’s BMS will shut it down and place the inverter in fault mode. Seen it all too often. But hey, you can always just add more Pylontechs provided your budget allows it.
    3 points
  46. I have 3x US3000Bs with my 5K Sunsynk, they work well, but if I did my install over today, I would have gone for Hubble AM-2s or BSL BATT (Bulls) battery. They have far higher charge / discharge rates than the Pylontech US series, clearly a superior product. And yes, the AM-2 and AM-3 are wall mount.
    3 points
  47. Erastus

    4 Kwatt wind generator

    And we have blade Nr 1. I did not go for purrfection but rather sizing of the FB for CF. Both sides marries well and the final product will be a purrrrfect Carbon Fiber blade. Now the aluminum mountings then blades are ready for manufacturing.
    3 points
  48. As the forum founder I have to stay neutral. However I still would love to share my thoughts. Hubble make use of BYD cells. They a very big name. Sincerely Jay
    3 points
  49. Erastus

    4 Kwatt wind generator

    And the second half is done. The two 1/2 sections of one blade is done and matches very well. Final trim and then to glue them together that I will do tomorrow. The two sections/flanges works very well far better that what I expected and if I want to do fiber glass blade then its ready to start the manufacturing. I recon with the infusion process the accuracy of the usage of resin will be far better and I will definitely use less I recon a blade with wood mounting will cost +/- R 550 or R 1650 for a set of three carbon fiber blades. When done I recon I will push for 4 or 5 meter blades. Its easy now that I understand the process and easy to get more done. never expected this. This is the top part of the second 1/2. Very chuffed with it.
    3 points
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