Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/08/2020 in all areas

  1. Just commissioned my Easysolar GX II on Monday with two 2.4 Pylontech’s and eight 355 watt Canadian Solar panels, system working great, a huge thanks to Jaco for supplying the Easysolar II and it so happened that he was in Cape Town for a couple of installations and graciously offered to help commmision the system, which I would have spent days, also, cannot forget Plonkster’s help ps: the WiFi setup on the Easysolar solar is basically non existent,so plan on running an eathernet cable to your router or use the WiFi dongle Tariq
    2 points
  2. Achmat

    My Sunsynk 8kw install

    Hi. First post on the forum. I've been researching and wanting to go solar for a number of years now but finally been able put together and install my system last month. My final plan is to eventually be able to go fully off grid and wanted something that can scale. Decided on the following: 1 x Sunsynk 8kw hybrid inverter 3 x 3.5kw pylontech batteries 28 x 305w Canadian solar panels (four strings of seven) I had my DB split into non essential loads and essential loads and left some loads before the inverter. Essential loads are all plugs
    2 points
  3. After much reading about this, including many warnings by @Coulomb about using 72 cell panels in 3S, I decided to cover myself and do it both ways, in order to test for myself. So, I decided wired 2 inverters as 3S4P and one as 2S6P. In theory anyway. In transit somebody drove a fork-truck into the box containing the panels, so I ended up with only 34. That meant the 2S6P became 2S5P, which has slightly undermined my intention of comparing performance. My data so far indicates that I never get PV drop-outs on the 2S5P inverter, but quite often on the 3S4P ones (always both togeth
    2 points
  4. Hi, I'm running two parallel Growatt inverters. Like @Jaco P Bloem say, do not parallel the PV inputs, every other inputs and outputs are paralleled as per the installation manual except the PV inputs. In my case, I have four panels, 405W JA Solar with Voc of 49.86v. I have connected two panels in series and then wired them to 1st inverter and then connected the other two and wired to the 2nd inverter. Do not forget to connect isolators between your inverters and solar panels. I'm planning to add four more at the end of the month so that I can have 8.
    2 points
  5. 1 point
  6. Didn’t read through all the technical replies. But I spoke to the technical people at Conlog (the pre-paid meter supplier for S’Bosch). Whilst the tripping of the meter is due to the various anti tampering measures in the meter, this specific issue is easily disabled by a meter specific code generated by Conlog. They need a written request and authorisation from the Municipality. Which is now treating this as a practical double check to check if you got your solar installation approved. No approval no code. Funny thing is that the reputable solar installers did not know the cause of th
    1 point
  7. I've been looking at a lot of BMS's in the past few days, if I'm not getting it confused with another product offering. Orion uses a two hall effect sensors in one package. One of them is dedicated to being accurate at small currents, which then switches to the other when the currents are higher.
    1 point
  8. There is a proper power factor correction stage, it's not just diode-capacitor. That means a boost converter that has to try to follow the voltage envelope with a similar current envelope, so that the power factor is close to unity. I believe that's why there are still checks on the waveform, voltage amplitude, frequency, frequency stability, and so on.
    1 point
  9. So yeah growatt confirmed the operation of turn off solar is to protect the battery. Normal operation according to them
    1 point
  10. This is all great in theory and we mentioned this a few times in the past, but to build something like this proves to be another story all together. The cost involved as well makes me believe that asking the municipality to change the meter might remain the best option overall, especially if it can be done at no cost like with mine.
    1 point
  11. My settings may not be very relevant as I have a micro-controller based system that reads data from the pylons and the inverters and manages the system, by changing target voltages and switching between Line and Battery mode by disconnecting the grid with a contactor. (It essentially performs the same function as something like ICC) The most important settings are the charging settings: Setting 26 (bulk) : 52.5V this gets SOV to 100 but prevents overcharging Setting 27 (float) : 50.5V this reduces SOC to about 99.7%, but reduces the fast ageing that occurs in these batteries when k
    1 point
  12. APV

    Axpert MKS II 5kW Error 08

    Firstly, are you using the model with the very high PV input (up to 450V)? The circuit will only work for these models with PV panels attached. As @Coulomb has mentioned (more than once), the problem can also occur when the battery voltage is too high. Have you taken any measurements when you ran into error 08?
    1 point
  13. These prepaid meters are becoming a real problem. The trouble is that even though the system is somewhat slow to back off (7 - 15 seconds), even the strictest speed requirements (parts of Europe wants 90% reduction in <2 seconds) will still trip these meters. The meter manufacturers really need to be a bit more lenient. I understand that you want to sell anti-tamper features to a municipality, but surely it doesn't have to be so darn hairline sensitive. Take for example the Landis GYR meters with the SRE detection feature (significant reverse energy). It can still be programmed to go i
    1 point
  14. FixAMess

    Panel Sizing

    You MUST do them in series, if you do in parallel then you will reach your current limit. So the short, long run, more cable combiner boxes argument is mute.
    1 point
  15. 2 ways only. Run in HUB1 or replace the prepaid. Last option will be the best.
    1 point
  16. Ridiq

    Solar Setup - Axpert

    Dankie vir die reply Jaco -daar leer ek nog.
    1 point
  17. Jaco P Bloem

    Solar Setup - Axpert

    Hi Jannie I have a similar setup, with the same 2 Axperts in parallel but only 20 panels (12 x 330W on the one and 8 x 360W on the other). You can install your first set (array) as 7s+7s to the one inverter and the second set as 8s+8s to the second inverter. Then all 30 panels are utilised. {This is, you parallel two series strings of 7 panels in set 1} The 2 sets do not have to be identical as they each go to their own MPPT charger, as long as the parallel strings are equal and you stay below the 450V. The operating Voltage is lower than the stated Voc (Open Circuit V), so
    1 point
  18. That was a looong weekend. Rack ready to bolt in. Lots of bus plates cut, drilled and tapped. Lots of terminal covers printed. Should be able to start assembling tomorrow. Lets hope I don't strip anything...
    1 point
  19. @Gerlach If Revov uses the Smart-ANT BMS for their batteries and ICC supports Revov, one would with some justification, expect that ICC already may support the Smart-ANT when used in a DIY configuration. Perhaps you are able to find out what modifications have been done to the ANT used by Revov to make it compatible with ICC.
    1 point
  20. FixAMess

    Panel Sizing

    Why do you want to split the string? If you want to expand later, just adding a second string will be easier than adding new panels to 2 strings. The startup voltage, 150V, is when there is no battery or Escom power input so you will need a minimum of 150V PV for the inverter to start working, in fact mine is rated as 150V as well but in a footnote they mention that without battery or escom then 200V is required from PV. (Goodwe)...Not sure how, why this is so.?????? What I have noticed on my setup is that with 7 Panels, I usually have a lower voltage and higher current than the 8 pa
    1 point
  21. I just noticed you quoted this and realised I have to disagree with that... Active balancing means you have small isolated DC/DC converters and switching gear so that charge can be sucked off one cell and put into another. Passive balancing means you have resistors across each cell, again with some switching gear, usually MOSFETs, that bleeds off/bypasses some energy from the high cells so that the lower ones can catch up. Active balancing is more expensive but more efficient. Now here is some news for those who don't know.... the bulk of the batteries out there, big names
    1 point
  22. Actually - I can answer my own question: Solis is actually publishing the NRS-097 test results freely (Now I am impressed). The test includes derating from 50.5Hz to 52Hz and it does it nicely and accurately according to the test results. So far so good...
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...