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Showing content with the highest reputation on 13/08/2020 in all areas

  1. Its alive! (Mostly...)
    2 points
  2. Just an update on my "Lockdown project": - Interfaces to 'Blynk': Can see the values and also change settings using the Blynk app on my phone. -Google sheets: records data to google sheets. Interval is adjustable. To get a nice graph: use Grafana. I have installed a local copy of Grafana with the google sheets plugin on my laptop. It just pulls the data in seamlessly. -IFTTT (If this then that): notifies inverter faults, inverter switching between battery/grid and can also notify at specific SOC low and high setpoints. I have setup my IFTTT to send messages to Telegram. Can also send to email. Hope this gives some ideas for you guys out there doing their own inverter interface controller / software.
    2 points
  3. Dear Everyone I hope my post finds you well. The Powerforum Store is open! Please do find our attached price guide and contact details attached. We are fully able to assist with installations great and small to the highest standards and quality. We would love your support as it very much assists us with the upkeep of this great community. Thank you all! Please note the price guide is a live document and is changed often to provide you with the best costings. Sincerely Jason Back (Energy) Pwer Forum Store Price List V2.pdf
    1 point
  4. I've flashed my 2x Axpert MKS II inverters with the latest firmware (71.82). I've attached the firmware to this post for interest sake. Whatever you do with it is at your own risk. I used this cable and it worked the first time on both. Note this cable goes from your computer to the serial cable that came with the inverter (see picture): https://www.takealot.com/ce-link-usb-2-0-to-rs232-db9-serial-male-a-2m-cable/PLID51855970 The inverters remained connected via parallel cable during upgrade. I turned one on and the other off, which sets the one turned on to master. I then flashed the master. Did the same to the other one. Note sure if this process made any difference I'm just posting it anyway. Mostly followed the instructions from @Coulomb from this link. Didn't reset all settings with watchpower afterwards. Note files on this link should NOT be used with MKS II, the instruction is just the same: https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?title=pip4048ms-inverter&p=64096&t=4332#p64096 Note it seems like the MKS II doesn't have SCC firmware to upgrade. On the inverter display I can see the inverter version (U1) but scrolling up or down doesn't show a SCC version (U2). MKS II Firmware 71 82.zip
    1 point
  5. JustinSchoeman

    Changeover Switch

    It is motorised, so quite slow. Probably at least 1 second, maybe 2.
    1 point
  6. Johann1982

    Sunsynk 8kW

    Will check if I can get it sorted. Installed a change over switch to put my non essentials back to eskom for the time being until I can get answers.
    1 point
  7. ___

    Earth Leakage tripping

    Right. So I suppose you were right and I was wrong. Mostly. The leakage is indeed very low. I faked a neutral earth bond, and rapidly connected/disconnected it, and it does increase the leakage, as much as 4-fold, but still only about 40nA... maybe, I doubt the clamp meter is terribly accurate that low down. The clamp meter samples 30 times a second so I figured even if the transient is much higher, the duration is going to be so short I doubt it is worth it to set up the scope. Still, I saw what I saw at the time. Somehow, this unholy gathering of filters and arresters worked together to make my life difficult. I still have the EMI filter from another part of the house. Somewhere. This one actually makes a small spark when you rapidly connect and disconnect the TN bond. Not enough on its own to trip an RCD (already tested), but possibly enough to bother setting up the scope for. This thing:
    1 point
  8. Bummer. But don't worry: I think you will soon get another chance to test your battery.
    1 point
  9. phil.g00

    Earth Leakage tripping

    @plonkster,If I am looking right it appears as if that entire PCB is removeable/disconnectable, This will lend itself to testing it and the rest of it discretely. Go on, test it, it'll take longer to reply to this post.
    1 point
  10. Stanley

    Earth Leakage tripping

    The probe auto-detect function is quite nice most of the time. It usually only works with the probes that support it as well. I am lucky enough to work with some decent Agilent scopes that have it. You can see a small conductive area around the BNC connector, and a little spring loaded pin on the probe that touches it. It's probably just passive, I would guess. There have been a couple of times when I explicitly didn't want the auto-detect feature (like when using a voltage probe and CT to measure current), so I just stick a little scrap of paper between the pin on the probe and the conductive strip on the scope to disable it. Then you can set it as a current measurement and use the math function to get power.
    1 point
  11. phil.g00

    Earth Leakage tripping

    This type has served me well over the years, it gets in everywhere,. Some wires, especially CT secondaries, you can't afford to be tugging on to get in there. Kyoritsu used to make it, now it seems Robin does.
    1 point
  12. Hi Tsa So under my settings menu>discharge settings sub menu, I have the option of a forced discharge together with the option to set force discharge and on grid discharge SOC. you have 3 force discharge time settings available where you set the times. I believe it is achievable, Still new to playing around with the pv connected will update again wen i get a chance to play with the setting.
    1 point
  13. Stanley

    Earth Leakage tripping

    I'm not so sure. MOVs have a small capacitance, which doesn't cause much current to flow at 50Hz, but the current through a capacitor depends on the rate of change of the voltage across it, using the equation I = C.dv/dt So a transient with a high dv/dt can cause much more than normal current to flow. If the earth leakage breaker is very sensitive or already close to it's limit then such a transient can cause it to trip.
    1 point
  14. phil.g00

    Earth Leakage tripping

    @plonkster, I look forward to the video, but aside from a blown MOV, I think you're chasing your tail.
    1 point
  15. JustinSchoeman

    Changeover Switch

    Old post, but I have one of these (not installed yet): https://www.securityandmore.co.za/products/dual-power-automatic-transfer-switch-ats?_pos=1&_sid=b1ba23e73&_ss=r It is just a motor driven mechanical gate with two standard DIN isolators. I had to replace the isolators with local ones though for CoC purposes.
    1 point
  16. @Jaco P Bloem I have 9x 340W in serie per inverter. My PV voltage generally goes between 310V and 390V. What do you have? Feedback in terms of the upgrade: I can confirm that my problem has 90% been solved at the cost of 5% less PV generation. As far as I can tell the inverter now tries to squeze out less power from the panels, but is much more stable. The PV voltage doesn't have sudden drops and my AC out doesn't drop below 220V, where it previously dropped to 190V. There is another forum topic where a user also reported less PV generation when upgrading from 71.70 to 71.80. I've upgraded from 71.71 to 71.82. I think the big change came when going to the next major version 80. When looking at the chart below, pay attention to where the blue and yellow lines meet, at those points the voltage tended to become unstable and then the yellow and blue sticks to each other for larger periods by getting stuck in the unstable state. Before: After: At the one point just before 12pm I increased the load slightly on purpose to see what it does when PV generation and load is equal. It became slightly unstable but output voltage remained above 220V.
    1 point
  17. Plaashaas

    New Installation

    @WayneE Agreed on this. I also suspect it the voltages going over 145V. Have a look at that. 2S configuration for your panels will be better.
    1 point
  18. Attached picture of luxpower blending PV and AC.
    1 point
  19. Hi Windgat. Thanks. Configured esp8266 for two serial ports: one standard and one using software serial on the other two pins. I first used Max3232 level shifters to convert from ttl to rs232 , but changed to a normal discrete transistor level shifter after having endless issues with that chips. So for your question: yes, the voltages on the inverter is too high and must be converted. Just an update on the software: have changed the logging from Google sheets to thingspeak now - gives more free memory. Some nice apps for thingspeak on Playstore and can also configure "reacts" on thingspeak to notify me of battery levels, inverter mode etc.
    1 point
  20. Interesting ... I actually do have a spare Pi lying around .....
    1 point
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