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Showing content with the highest reputation on 20/08/2020 in all areas

  1. Hi guys, Just wanted to present to you a new Windows' software tool that we prepared for monitoring of PIP/Axpert inverters and Pylontech batteries. It supports many compatible inverter models. It can work with parallel configurations as well. This was actually the main reason to write the software because a few months ago I upgraded my system from single to 3x inverters and the "pi" solution did not work correct anymore. The software can control switching between battery/grid mode based on Pylontech SOC, and also can control Pylontech max charge current based on the request coming f
    5 points
  2. Last year, I added a wallbox to my solar, for charging electric vehicles. It's a single-phase 32A, so the max charging power is roughly 7.5kW. Some details are written in my previous post here: https://powerforum.co.za/topic/2322-youdas-off-grid-lab/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-58507 Personally, I don't own an EV, but for the nine months in a year the solar production is so excessive, that I have no use for all that power. Therefore, I offered EV charging for free and published the wallbox location on the PlugShare.com and on some other local charging maps too. Since then, curious EV dri
    4 points
  3. So, yesterday I ended the day off with 89% left in my Pylontech battery. Loadshedding then started at 20:00 last night. I was super happy to be able to run the house off the battery for the 2:30hrs - grid came back and didn't notice for a few mins. This morning, started off perfectly! Had peak generation of 3.3Kw before 9:30am so that's pretty decent! Running my pool pump now as well. I will be putting more load on at noon to see what peak generation is. Very happy with the setup and load shedding atsarts at 12 today - won't even notice.
    3 points
  4. ___

    Disposing of gel batteries

    Put them on the back of your bakkie, drive into town. Park somewhere in an area known for alternative shopping. Go and have lunch.
    3 points
  5. Louisvdw

    Same or Separate DB

    You can put it all in the one DB, but it needs to be separated and clearly marked.
    2 points
  6. I have soldered lugs before, and I ended up having to cut-off the entire lug and re-crimp new lugs onto the cable, the problem is, it takes away the flexibility of the cable on the lug and the conductors manage to wiggle them selfs loose from the lug. Another problem would be if you have a hot connection a month down the line the solder will melt and you have a live conductor swinging around.
    2 points
  7. O² free is a scam. Sorry to be so blunt about it, but that is the reality. There is enough research out there to show that oxygen free is a scam #JustSaying Also see my response about the cold weld below, oxygen doesn't come into play here. I would not recommend this. When you crimp a wire using a mechanical crimper, it creates a cold weld: Solder crimps have several problems: 1) The soldering irons can't get hot enough to flow the solder; You need to use a blow-torch which almost always damages the insulation 2) Solder creates voids inside the crimp which
    2 points
  8. Stanley

    Wire size (200A)

    I think this information (and how to get it) may be useful for some other people, so I thought that this is as good a place as any to teach others how to find the resistance of their cables. A 1mm^2 copper wire with a length of 1m has a resistance of 17mΩ (i.e. 0.017Ω). This is the only number you need to remember. For any cable, of any cross-sectional area and length, you simply divide the 17mΩ by your cable's area and multiply the result by the length in m. So to use @plonkster's example above for 10m of 50mm^2 cable. (0.017Ω / 50mm^2) * 10m = 0.0034Ω
    2 points
  9. Hi All, First post and I need some serious advice. We run a business from home and we rent printing equipment, 2 years ago our sales rep went, hey loadshedding, why don't you rent to own a system over 3 years, after 3 years it becomes yours, and we double it up, keep it under maintenance, fully serviced, the whole bang shoot... Sounded great on paper, until it wasn't.... We also run two houses on the property, each house having its own everything, separate stove/geyser bla bla. Each house has its own DB, and we have a DB in the garage, so 3 DB's in total before they added in their
    1 point
  10. Would go with 50mm² instead of 35mm² for 5kW unit. Apparently buying your "Monitoring system" from centurion solar means you will have a "pirated version" of ICC. You may want to consider buying it from the guy who made the app. Don't know what these cable kits mean, so will leave to others to comment on that.
    1 point
  11. Hmm... UT210E does exceptionally well and it is less than R1000
    1 point
  12. Hi, get your icc software from Manie [email protected] pylontech from inverter warehouse 20k each they are near isando
    1 point
  13. For your geyser you can look at installing a smaller element 1kw element. It takes a little longer to heat up but atleast run it on the PV. I have installed 1kw elements in both my geysers and integrated them into my home assistant automation. This way I use the geysers and pool pump to maximium my load during the day time in order to get the most out of the PV array.
    1 point
  14. My feelings exactly. But having done it once. It is a pain. Once off, ok sure, but more than once, hell no. I burned myself, I got frustrated and it took forever to heat up the cable. Was truly a terrible experience. 1/10 would not recommend.
    1 point
  15. Hahaha I've done that too. Not for wiring though. My kid had to make a musical instrument for school, and it had to be made from recyclable material. We came up with the idea of a pan flute made from scrap copper piping. A tiny bit of science went into it (wavelength is 4 times the length of the pipe), and then we looked up the frequencies of the notes, and made 8 pipes that corresponded with (middle) C4 up to C5. Then we had to solder caps onto these pipes... and I was not about to buy an expensive blowtorch for this one time use
    1 point
  16. Freshly stripped copper wire is bright and shiny (no oxide yet). Leave it for a few days and it turns a dull brown (surface oxide). You should crimp the wire immediately after stripping to minimise oxide formation.
    1 point
  17. That doesn't make any sense. Are they crimping the wire in a vacuum? Else there is already oxygen around the cable. Literally every single install video uses a normal crimper. This whole oxygen free thing is a scam. I stand by that statement and there is plenty online backing that up and research. Also what you are referring to is cold welds in the absence of applying enough pressure to force the metals together. As in space, where two metals cold weld in the absence of oxygen due to a lack of a barrier between the two metals allowing them to flow together. If the same were possibl
    1 point
  18. The very fact that you can't fit the wire into the circuit breaker should be a clue. I'm going to put another piece of controversial advice down: Circuit breakers don't have sufficient capacity. In the US, most manufacturers require a Class T Fuse: (20kA breaking capacity @ 120v DC) (Don't let this pic fool you, this fuse is as big as my hand) Or some of the cheap manufacturers allow you to use a ANL fuse: A dead short between batteries can deliver 1000s of amps. I realized how dangerous this is when I tried to use a Gewiss 15kA circuit breaker (rated DC).
    1 point
  19. JustinSchoeman

    Sunsynk 8kW

    They did not mention anything about this being proprietary, so I assume it is OK to post here. sunsynk_modbus.docx
    1 point
  20. Yes. In Venus 2.60 it moved to a submenu... and the spelling mistake is fixed (two words in English, solar charger ).
    1 point
  21. Can't you just use 70mm² why such a huge cable? The cable wholesaler close to me sells the 90mm-odd crimp (not sure the exact measurement), but both the wire and the crimp are SUPER expensive.
    1 point
  22. oops... Just found 'Megaphase' who specialize in high current electrical. Apparently the reason I cannot find these pin lugs is that they are generally not used. I am supposed to be using extension bars with bolted round lugs. Expensive, but probably the correct thing to do.
    1 point
  23. Ok i'll load that ESS back on with that setting & see what happens. Thanks !!
    1 point
  24. Agreed. All else looks OK, apart from trivial things like turning off the beep when you press buttons, etc.
    1 point
  25. I don't own a King, but this is how I interpret what the manual says. In SBL priority, "solar energy charges the battery first". In SLB, "solar energy provides power to the load first". In a King, net power to/from the battery can be controlled by adjusting how much power the AC-in (utility) provides to the load. So in SLB mode, even though you have power to charge the battery, the system can lower the utility power by the amount it would have charged the battery, thus "stealing" the power for the loads. Perhaps an example, ignoring losses for simplicity. This is the way I imagine it
    1 point
  26. Louisvdw

    Different brands in a bank

    As long as you stay inside the minimum range of all the settings it should be fine. That 40V cutout on the Narada does look extreme in any case (40/15= 2.67V per cell - much better to stay above 2.8V per cell) So just use 53.5 for charging and 44V for discharge cutout and both batteries will be happy (the Narada will live longer as well)
    1 point
  27. RikH

    Youda's off-grid LAB

    Yes, look here. No, for several reasons. first my driveway is appr. 100 mtrs long and when my wife comes home and my car is already parked there will be issues with maneuvering the cars and we don't want that for strangers. Second, we have "only" 36 panels so enough for the house and the car around the year but not much more than that. And around the year it is only possible since we can still netmeter everything. Nice to share you excess power to one who can use it instead of just not generate it!
    1 point
  28. Power Me

    Youda's off-grid LAB

    If I owned an EV (and I do want a "Volvo XC40 Recharge" and I do still have my many years old Tesla M3 deposit still in place) I would be charging it at home. I am not sure why there are no DC "fast" (they don't have to be fast, just DC) chargers for home PV owners as they would be so much more efficient, than the process of converting PV array to AC and then AC back to DC battery charging in an EV, and certainly if/when I can afford an EV I would investigate this DC charging possibility. My preliminary investigation revealed that actual data communication would be necessary with the EV ra
    1 point
  29. The ferules crimp square. So a perfect crimp of the conductors would give you 9.8mm on a side. No idea how much the ferule itself adds, but likely too much... I don't really like stranded wire in a clamp (it is illegal in many areas for a reason)... But pin lugs seem to be made of unobtainium at the moment.
    1 point
  30. The Axpert MKS II doesn't have a removable display, so there is no display firmware.
    1 point
  31. You have to tell us what battery you have, and also what your goals are: be ready for load shedding, minimise Eskom usage, are you off-grid, etc. That's why the settings are there, to cater for different needs.
    1 point
  32. Indeed, that is an issue. But I find the same kind of issue with just leaning it unsoldered. It loosens, it frays, it corrodes. Which is why I want to go for the ferrule option.
    1 point
  33. Terminating small wiring in a screw terminal (e.g. 15A plug) is better with either nothing done to the wire (except stripping the insulation) or to crimp a bootlace ferrule. Soldering isn't recommended since the soldered wire has no spring action when compressed. What tends to happen is that the screw thread will squash the solder but if it loosens due to usage there is a gap that develops between the tinned wire and the terminal which can arc etc. For cables my passion is for moulded plugs.
    1 point
  34. Yeah dude, I am super pleased! Battery is fulled charged now too!
    1 point
  35. Awesome @Rclegg glad things are looking better. Strange that the MPPT is still showing 30A.
    1 point
  36. @JustinSchoeman If you have the lugs and cable, I am in Centurion and will assist you with the crimping if needed.
    1 point
  37. Money Money Money its so funny in a rich mans world. Well i believe don't make debt as far as possible stay away from debt. Usually this is impossible for a house or car. BUT do you need the R700k car or will a R150k car also get you to your destination Do you need the R5m house or will a R1m house be enough. Ok lets get back to your question. Yes it is possible to finance your solar solution using your bond. As was shown above if you take R200k over 20 years you will pay around R2000pm. Your Batteries will need to be replaced by year 5-10 depending on the quality of the ba
    1 point
  38. Ian

    Disposing of gel batteries

    Just my luck I'll come back to a pile of batteries and no bakkie
    1 point
  39. These are lugs: You need to buy them regardless. So if they are already too expensive, maybe you need to rethink what you are going to do. The crimper is another story, I have a crimper I bought because I do a lot of these, but I'm in Cpt. Also don't just expect someone will help for free. Actually making these cables takes a bit of time. Need to cut to length using bolt cutters, then cut off the insulation (yeah sounds easy but on these big wires it is a mission), then put it together and crimp it. Takes me roughly 10 minutes to make 1 crimp. You could probably cut th
    1 point
  40. Gnome

    Axpert King 5kW

    Not sure, I don't really buy Victron stuff, bit too expensive and they never seem to offer the features I need. I am now using an HA02 battery balancer All my AGM batteries are now within 0.1v of each other. I monitor my battery voltages per battery. I created a small per battery voltage monitor using a 4x ATTiny13, each of them simply gets the current voltage and is collected over "serial" by a single STM32F103 which then aggregates the data and I monitor it that way. (cost me around R100 to build, R34 for the STM32 and around R10 each for the ATTiny + some resistors and a perf board
    1 point
  41. ___

    Mr

    Just to add my voice: Never ever do this. If you electrocute someone by feeding into the grid, you can get into serious legal trouble, we're talking manslaughter charges or at least endangerment. Spend the R350 and install a Hager SFT240 changeover.
    1 point
  42. It's a series string and the total length is that of the complete string. The length of the positive wire vs. the negative one does not impact that. A 4 mm2 wire has a rating of 48A. Your panels are in series so that should be fine as well. For the loss over the 16m distance though, you might be better off using 6 mm2, but the 4 mm2 will work just fine ( 0.4V loss more for the 4 mm2 )
    1 point
  43. Vassen

    ITS installer in Gauteng

    Hi you could send an enquiry on the its site and they will recommend one of their approved plumbers. I was originally trying to get the same HP but I wanted to install myself but they refused to sell to me. I got a quote from one of their approved plumbers for around 22K, for a standard install max 2 meters above ground. My installation needed to be around 5 meters above ground. I eventually just bought an Alliance 5kw HP for around R10500. Diverter valve, brackets and other plumbing materials was another 3-4K. I’ve read some good reviews and some not
    1 point
  44. Personal opinion, layman's 2c. Even if you have accumulated capital on the bond you can access, don''t use a 20-year repayment period for equipment that will have a shorter lifespan than the loan. For example, if the inverter and/or batteries might only last you for five-10 years, make sure you pay extra into the bond to pay it off earlier as if it were a 5-10 year loan. It might make more sense to pay the panels off over the life of the bond.
    1 point
  45. I was also very keen to do this but then I thought: why not just install a grid tie inverter and a couple of solar panels and fit the geyser with a 1kw 220v AC element? This way once the geyser has reached temp your element will switch off and then the surplus PV production can be consumed by other appliances in the house (TV, Wi-Fi etc.) Worked for me
    1 point
  46. superdiy

    Fuses or circuit breakers?

    Even if you have multiple PV strings with fuses in a combiner box, which is not close to the inverter, it is still a good idea to have another fuse or breaker close to the inverter, for the reason mentioned above.
    1 point
  47. If your fuses outside or are not easily accessable then put a DC breaker on your PV line near the inverter. In an emergency you may just be thankful you installed it. You should be able to get one for less than R500. I can in an emergency isolate my inverter in probably 5 secs since all my switches/disconnects/breakers are together.
    1 point
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