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Thank you for the great forum, Safe Driving over the weekend. Sincerely Jason

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Showing content with the highest reputation since 24/05/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Van theplanman

    Solar panel mounting angle

    Just another thing to put things in perspective.... We (especially DIY-ers like me) tend to start small when we move into the green world, and for that we want to get the maximum for what we put in, and with time we gradually extend our systems.... I've started like that and is still busy extending... Here's the thing for typical town households, we end up with a inverter (R10k-40k), sustainable battery pack of R20-R100k and panels of R18k.. Within 10years, you encounter more costs on the inverter and batteries - but not really on your panels... You see, over time the panels are the small change in the total installation. Therefore, instead of adjusting panels, just install 3 more and you never have to touch them again! (I'm considering installing 3 more panels, but at 45deg towards West, purely to get the afternoon sun, as late as possible. My neighbour build on his property, killing my late afternoon sun....) 12Panels will take you far (I also have 12), for me now is to catch the early morning and late afternoon suns - to have a long as possible solar day.
  2. 2 points
    Youda

    InfiniSolar Plus 5KW fans not cooling

    I'm using a mini PLC that has multiple RS232 serial interfaces. These interfaces are connected to each InfiniSolar directly. The PLC has some CAN bus interfaces too, these I'm using to talk to Pylontechs A code running in the PLC is parsing serial communication (and CAN bus), then is providing the RestAPI with JSON interface available over TCP/IP LAN. Once you have a LAN device with JSON support, it's actually very easy to use it in Fibaro. PLC Tecomat Foxtrot: https://powerforum.co.za/topic/2322-youdas-off-grid-lab/page/3/?tab=comments#comment-60376 JSON output sample: (I bet that even Alexa or Siri would be able to use JSON directly, so you could yell something like "Siri, what's the actual solar power?" or "Siri, turn on the power plant".) Of course, you can use any piece of suitable hardware, like RaspberryPI, Arduino etc. For example, I used a clone of Arduino called Z-UNO in the start, since it has embedded Z-Wave chip onboard and is very easy to include in home automation as a standard z-wave device. It had some advantages and some pitfalls too. In order to parse the serial communication, you have to search for a PDF "infinisolar protocol". It's available for download even somewhere on this forum. Or, you can modify one of the many github projects that are intended for use with Axpert/PIP inverters. There difference is, that Axpert/PIP protocol has "QPIGS style" commands, while InfiniSolar has "^P003GS style". One last word: talk to the Infini via RS232 directly. As an alternative, you can talk thru USB port, since it's just a USBtoSerial embedded chip, not a real USB device. But stay away from using features of the "SNMP Web Pro card" for home automation. This card is a crap and has many issues.
  3. 2 points
    Trober

    Trober's new 12kW Off-grid system

    Hi all, Thanks to so much good information on this forum, a lot of thinking, planning and building, I finally came online on Saturday. So far everything works pretty well. Eskom mains was turned off on Sunday and so far, no need even to run the generator. I am still finding my feet with all the settings and discovery of the best options but My system: 24 X JAR 375 W Mono's (8.8kWp) 3 X Axpert Type 4kW inverters in parallel (12kW) 7 X Narada NPFC100 Li-Fe-Po4 batteries (33.6kWh) 1 X Deutsz 15kVA generator Pic attached.
  4. 2 points
    I believe that they are the same thing, so they should be totally interchangeable.
  5. 2 points
    Jaaks

    Brand new RCT VM III 3KVa for sale

    Thanks for the inverter @Tariqmy friend @dalevdmerweis really happy with his purchase!
  6. 2 points
    plonkster

    Lithium Battery Best Practice

    Most damaging is discharging a cell below 2.8V or charging a cell above 4.2V. That instantly destroys that cell. But your BMS will guard against that. Second is charging too hard at cold temperatures (below 1°C, but that depends on battery specs, even better to keep it above 5°C). Again, the BMS should guard against that. Third is running the batteries at high temperatures (due to hard charging/discharging). Most smart batteries will reduce charge/discharge power when they exceed 40°C. It also follows that it is better to store them in a room that remains under 40°C, for that same reason. This does not destroy them, but does cause them to degrade faster. Fourth, I would say, is discharging too deep. Below 10% SoC reduces cycle life significantly. Pylontech (and I suspect Dyness by extension) will stop discharge at 10% SOC in order to reach the advertised cycle life (6000?). Fifth, keeping the batteries fully charged all the time at a very high voltage. If you cycle the batteries daily, it is fine to charge them to 53.2V as the BMS requests. If you keep them permanently charged, 52.5V is better. Assuming a 15-series setup of course. Victron systems use a lower voltage for Pylontech already (but probably not for Dyness... I don't know what it does for that one). This is probably the least damaging factor and not one to worry about too much. But it does reduce the life a little bit, just like it does with all Lithium chemistries. Generally speaking (across all battery chemistries) slower discharge is better because it is more efficient. For lead acid batteries this is known as the Peukert effect. The harder they work, the more energy is lost in the process. BUT, with that said, Lithium batteries have almost no Peukert effect, to the extent that it is not even considered when designing. The calculated peukert constant is somewhere between 1 (ideal) and 1.05, whereas for lead acid batteries it's 1.1 to 1.2. That is to say, lithium batteries show almost no "fade" when you discharge them hard. However... they heat up. And they don't like to get too hot. For this reason there will be healthy limits to how hard you can hit them and for how long. Generally you can discharge at C/2 for long periods with no adverse effects, but it is definitely better to remain below C/2. The same applies to charging. You can charge at 1C or even 2C, but the battery gets hot and that can be detrimental, so generally stay below C/2. 80%. That's an opinion of course. Depends on how the battery does balancing. Most batteries does passive balancing at the top, so they have to be charged 100% regularly. At least twice a month, preferably weekly. If the battery has active balancing and can also balance in the middle/bottom (this is rare... it is not easy to do, and only really works at low power levels or when the battery is idle), then it should not matter if you leave it at low levels for long periods of time. I know very few batteries that have active balancers. The only one I've seen in person was the Discover AES (which is a very expensive battery). Finally... don't go outside the warranty parameters
  7. 1 point
    Jaco de Jongh

    SmartSolar 100V vs 150V vs 250V

    Benefit, ease of installation and reduction in possible failure points. Never saw them, my supplier dont even sell them. Learned something new today.. No, not at all,just mentioning that so you can keep in mind that isn't only cable costs involved.
  8. 1 point
    RikH

    Lithium Battery Best Practice

    This is for LiFePO4. How to indentify... Well it's either NCM or LiFePO4. NCM is the most common for 18650 based batteries like laptops, powertools, Tesla cars and powerwalls etc. LiFePO4 is less common because of their worse weight / capacity ratio. They are mostly seen as prismatic cells but also are there in a lot of other shapes. Identifying, well look at the label I guess... BTW, here is a nice article about how to get the longest life out of a lithium based battery.
  9. 1 point
    RikH

    Lithium Battery Best Practice

    In terms of aging from charging and discharging, here is a nice more or less standard charge discharge curve that says it all: What you can learn from this is, don't go below 90% DoD or 3,1V and don't go 90% SoC or 3,45. But as mentioned already balancing takes places in higher regions like 3,55 or even 3,6V so take that into account as well. Now I don't know how and at what voltage these dyness batteries balance but it is important to give them a change to do so after each let's say 10 cycles. And also very important: Do not charge below freezing temparatures at all!
  10. 1 point
    Jaco de Jongh

    Solar panel DB

    I would wire it like this, it will allow you to completely and safely isolate and bypass the inverter in the event of an Inverter failure. Bypass.pdf
  11. 1 point
    Jaco de Jongh

    Apologies!

    I would like to mention something here. A recent post from @Gelo, and comments made by @Durran about bad service they received from some installers/suppliers (In Durran's case I was one of them). made me realise how quickly we can disappoint someone that needs our help. Sometimes there truly are situations that derails all plans, unforeseen circumstances that steer me away from a commitment I have made. I am not looking for excuses, I have a loose head and gets distracted easily, if there is any other member that I owe any quotation or what ever, do not hesitate to remind me. I cant change what happened in Durren's case, I can only try to ensure that it doesn't happen again . @Gelo , your post made me think. I hope that the installer community would live up to the clients expectations.
  12. 1 point
    Hannes Bester

    Lock down projects

    Hi this is some of the data I pulled today. We had some clouds throughout the day. I'm also not sure if the pv output displays the actual current drawing from it or if it's the total available. It seems to change according to the loads, but here it is. Have a good evening.
  13. 1 point
    Just an update on my "Lockdown project": - Interfaces to 'Blynk': Can see the values and also change settings using the Blynk app on my phone. -Google sheets: records data to google sheets. Interval is adjustable. To get a nice graph: use Grafana. I have installed a local copy of Grafana with the google sheets plugin on my laptop. It just pulls the data in seamlessly. -IFTTT (If this then that): notifies inverter faults, inverter switching between battery/grid and can also notify at specific SOC low and high setpoints. I have setup my IFTTT to send messages to Telegram. Can also send to email. Hope this gives some ideas for you guys out there doing their own inverter interface controller / software.
  14. 1 point
    introverter

    Lava Slow Combustion fireplace

    I do not have any experience with the brand but love the sound of my keyboard so will dispense my 2 cents (VAT incl) worth With regard to the specfic model ("magma") it seems to be an all steel component stove - including the firebox. I wonder about the longevity of this (especially the firebox) as opposed to cast iron which I think is more traditional. The flue/chimney outlet is 130mm - when I had my stove put in it seemed that 150mm flue pipes/fittings etc. were easier to source (is a couple of years back though). The stove appears to rely mainly (only?) on radiation to distribute heat so I suspect the sides and back could possibly get very hot (relevant for how close other items/furniture etc can/should be around it). Maybe the natural stone lining will mitigate this (and possibly also prolong the life of the firebox). replacement availability for the stone liner though? (think stone will over time crack or to some extent erode) the dimensions (visually) make the ash drawer seem possibly a bit small (not fun if you have to empty it every day or even more than once if burning it for a whole day). Stove is (at least looks) very low to the floor - if you are married and need practice asking for forgiveness the extra kneeling when adding fuel (for the stove...) is handy, otherwise a stove that is higher might be nicer to run. No detail on the door handle. Some stoves have a relataively "cool touch" handle - while others require a glove to touch when the stove is going. (same as a cast iron skillet on a stove you WILL forget that glove at least once...)... little kids around.....shoo-shoo No axe to grind with the manufacturer (even less so seeing that they are local) but with (all) fireplaces/stoves the numbers should be approached with a fairly large pinch of salt (low sodium where possible). I see they quote a max output number but no nominal? How was the number determined? Here I suspect we (in South Africa) are waaayyyy behind the European countries where there are standards for stoves (NRS 097-2 or SANS 10142 for stoves basically...) In general I will advise 1) like for solar - first determine as accurately as possible what heat capacity you need (it is not that difficult to calculate total area, calculate some R-values/U-values for room material, use google/accuweather to get some historic weather info and calculate expected heat loss to get a sense what you are planning for). Too large a stove (output wise) could actually be worse that too small - as far as I know these stoves should not really be operated "choked down" (contributes to soot and creosote buildup in the chimney which has a fire risk). 2) budget for a proper install. Ideally stainless steel flue pipes - double walled AND insulated when entering the ceiling/roof space (relevant to reduce fire risk and helps flue operate optimally). Correct height of the flue (need certain clearances depending of pitch of roof, distance from top of roof, neighbouring big trees etc). The flue is a very big part of what makes these stoves operate well and efficient. Decent flashing (and someone skilled at actually fitting it) - watching water run down the flue is not as much fun as watching the flames dance.. 3) get a good supplier of wood (and then tell no one). Wood must be DRY (like in ideally at least 3 years since first cut). Lots of alien wattle around which burns quite well but to me it seems like bluegum has a greater energy density. Make sure the wood supply will fit in the firebox without touching the sides (logs should actually lie flat on a bed of coals - not the little pyramids that we seem so fond of). (if the stove is running optimally with good dry wood there should be virtually NO smoke visible exiting the flue). 4) look at things like minimum distances advised by the manufacturer from walls etc (peeling paint and cracked plaster - especially behind the stove is not unheard of) tldnr: no experience of the brand but plenty to say.
  15. 1 point
    GerhardK83

    House and DB wiring sizes

    Good afternoon Tsa As per SANS 10142:2006 the maximum allowable current for PVC insulated cables in a single phase installation when the cable is enclosed in conduit fixed to a wall or trunking fixed to a wall are as follows. For Multi-Phase the currents are lower. For GP cable - That is the individual Black, Red, Blue, White, Yellow, Yellow and Green cables which are not bundled together with a second insulation over the individual cores and with 1 solid core or multiple thick strands 1.5 mm2: 17.5A, 2.5 mm2: 24A, 4.0 mm2: 32A, 6.0 mm2: 41A, 10.0 mm2: 57A, 16.0 mm2: 76A, 25.0 mm2: 101A For Surfix and Twin and Earth - A cable with more than 1 cores with 1 solid core or multiple thick strands individually insulated with a second insulation over the individual cores 1.5 mm2: 16.5A, 2.5 mm2: 23A, 4.0 mm2: 30A, 6.0 mm2: 38A, 10.0 mm2: 52A, 16.0 mm2: 69A, 25.0 mm2: 90A The maximum cable operating temperature are not allowed to exceed 70 degree Celsius, if the temperature exceeds 70 degree Celsius a thicker cable must be used. Cabtyre -A flexible cable with thin strands used for appliances, power tools, extension leads etc are not allowed in a DB. The gap between the clamp of the MCB and the start of the insulation may not exceed 2mm. There is also a limit of the number of cables entering or leaving an MCB and that limit is 3. Another point that is misunderstood is that the MCB protects the cable and not the load supplied by the cable. If a cable leaving the DB is joined and the cable that is joined is thicker or thinner than the other cable then the MCB must be rated for the thinner cable, for example a gate motor is to be installed and the cable leaving the house is 2.5 mm2 but you cannot get a 2.5 mm2 cable only 1.5 mm2 is available then the MCB must be rated for the 1.5mm2 cable. Circuits are not allowed to be mixed on the MCB's eg Lights and Socket outlets on the same MCB. Open spaces in the cover of the DB must be closed off so that you are protected from a electric shock and to keep insects, bugs, spiders, bees and wasps out of the DB. MCB's must be marked with indelible ink or a proper label which is not easily removed. If a DB is supplied by another DB then the sub DB and the supplying DB must be properly marked the same way MCB's are marked. A Switch Dis-connector (isolator) must disconnect both L & N for single phase installations and all P's & N for multi-phase installations. A 2 pole or 4 pole MCB are not allowed to be used as a switch dis-connector (isolator). A MCB must trip all P's for multi-phase installations if there is a over current in any of the phases. An Earth leakage must disconnect both L & N for single phase installations and all P's & N for multi-phase installations PS CB is short for Miniature Circuit Breaker.
  16. 1 point
    NJS

    Is there a link between the Inge & Sunsynk?

    Hi, i have just installed the Inge hyprid inverter two weeks back by a company i trust. Since installation the inverter is performing well, no stress at all. On the screen i see a sign "sunsynk " displayed. My question is; is there a link between the Inge & Sunsynk? I'm asking this question because when i read the manuals of this two inverters they seem to be alike with no difference at all. The Inge appears to be a product of Spain if not mistaken. However i'm informed that the Sunsynk is amongst the best not sure about the Inge. Anyone with knowledge about the Inge as to how good or bad, can share the information. Regards,
  17. 1 point
    StrikerX

    Axpert MKS II 5kW Error 08

    In my case, it takes 1-3 sec for it to ramp up and voila! error 08. Had a shutdown around ~9:30AM on 26th. This might be useful. QPIGS raw log(timestamped) leading upto the error and 5min later when i restarted it manually. [2020-05-26 09:37:51](235.6 50.1 235.6 50.1 1017 1003 020 411 54.10 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 110 [2020-05-26 09:37:55](236.8 50.1 236.8 50.1 1065 0973 021 411 54.10 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 110 [2020-05-26 09:37:58](237.5 50.1 237.5 50.1 1092 1014 021 411 54.00 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 110 [2020-05-26 09:38:01](236.7 50.1 236.7 50.1 1136 0928 022 411 54.00 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 110 [2020-05-26 09:38:05](237.0 50.1 237.0 50.1 1037 1037 020 411 54.00 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 110 [2020-05-26 09:38:08](236.2 50.1 236.2 50.1 1157 0934 023 411 54.10 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 110 [2020-05-26 09:38:11](236.8 50.1 236.8 50.1 1112 0992 022 411 54.10 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 110 [2020-05-26 09:38:15](237.1 50.1 237.1 50.1 1090 0995 021 411 54.00 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 110 [2020-05-26 09:38:18](237.7 50.1 237.7 50.1 1069 0963 021 411 54.10 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 110 [2020-05-26 09:38:21](236.7 50.1 236.7 50.1 1112 0997 022 411 54.00 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 110 [2020-05-26 09:38:25](236.7 50.1 236.7 50.1 0994 0905 019 411 54.00 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 110 [2020-05-26 09:38:30](240.5 50.1 000.0 00.0 0000 0000 000 485 54.00 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00000000 00 00 00000 010 [2020-05-26 09:38:34](240.1 50.1 000.0 00.0 0000 0000 000 383 54.00 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00000000 00 00 00000 010 [2020-05-26 09:38:37](240.6 50.1 000.0 00.0 0000 0000 000 273 54.00 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00000000 00 00 00000 010 [2020-05-26 09:38:41](240.7 50.1 000.0 00.0 0000 0000 000 097 54.00 000 100 0044 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00000000 00 00 00000 010 [2020-05-26 09:43:26](234.6 50.1 000.0 00.0 0000 0000 000 384 53.40 000 100 0043 00.0 386.0 00.00 00000 00000000 00 00 00010 000 [2020-05-26 09:43:30](235.5 50.1 000.0 00.0 0000 0000 000 426 53.30 000 100 0043 00.1 389.0 00.00 00000 00000000 00 00 00049 000 [2020-05-26 09:43:33](237.8 50.1 237.8 50.1 1403 1319 028 424 53.60 000 100 0043 00.2 381.4 00.00 00000 00010110 00 00 00107 110 [2020-05-26 09:43:36](235.7 50.1 235.7 50.1 1225 1124 024 368 53.30 000 100 0043 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010000 00 00 00000 010 [2020-05-26 09:43:40](236.0 50.1 236.0 50.1 1227 1134 024 368 53.20 000 100 0043 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010000 00 00 00000 010 [2020-05-26 09:43:43](235.1 50.1 235.1 50.1 1223 1135 024 406 53.30 000 091 0043 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 010 [2020-05-26 09:43:47](238.7 50.1 238.7 50.1 0571 0504 011 411 54.40 005 095 0043 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 110 [2020-05-26 09:43:50](236.7 50.1 236.7 50.1 0566 0542 011 408 54.00 001 100 0043 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 110 [2020-05-26 09:43:53](236.0 50.1 236.0 50.1 0566 0538 011 408 54.00 001 100 0043 00.0 000.0 00.00 00000 00010101 00 00 00000 110 QFAULT [2020-05-26 12:04:27] Send: QFAULT [2020-05-26 12:04:27] [290ms] Return: (08 04 1045 0942 0046 546.8 54.1 236.9 50.14 235.9ᅠ QFS [2020-05-26 12:04:35] Send: QFS [2020-05-26 12:04:36] [390ms] Return: (01 08 04 1045 0942 0046 236.9 50.14 235.9 50.13 000.0 546.8 54.1 044 204ユᅪ I have the RAW QPIGS (3-5sec latency, around 25-30k rows per day) log if anyone wants to take a closer look.
  18. 1 point
    Bobby Kaucic

    COCT court case vs Eskom

    I am actively watching this - but the news about it are scarce... I secretly pray that COCT wins as doing so would open up the country electricity procurement to that path of normality. Fingers crossed
  19. 1 point
    plonkster

    General solar info

    Sometimes the MPPT can get stuck on the wrong point. I've seen this twice now, once was actually in Norway, so far up North that you get days where the sun comes up in the east, swings around in a flat line across the horizon in a half-circle and then sets again 22 hours later, leading to ridiculously long solar days but not much insolation. In any case, I've seen it get stuck on a tiny blip very high up on the voltage scale, causing it to make less than a watt, so it looks like the MPPT has simply stopped, while in reality it is tracking a maximum... the wrong one. 20 years ago I did a course in optimisation, in which this issue was discussed (locking on to a "local" maximum). If the constraints are not linear, that sort of thing can happen. (It also happens to be why I don't buy the philosophical idea of a "moral landscape", where if you see something work well you just do more of it until you reach a utopia... cause I already know that kind of algorithm only finds local maximae . How's that for a bit of Friday OT-ness!).
  20. 1 point
    First proviso...I am no expert but the post seems to get many drivebys and no one stopping.. Your decision on inverter size is important for more than the size of load you can power - as far as I know if you want to add/combine units they must be of the same type/size (so if you start with 3kVA, the other 2 will also need to be 3kVA. There are also requirements in terms of processor/firmware similarity - so you will need to look at that in detail to make sure what you start with will be compatible with later additions. (the resident victron genie is @plonkster ... maybe he will swing by and smack me on the nose for invoking his name and spreading falsehoods about victron...) Like most forums the "which one is best?" type question often leads to very little fruitful conversation and mostly ends with at least one member banned.. Since you going the Victron route I will start with selecting at least what is part of their confirmed supported batteries (https://www.victronenergy.com/live/battery_compatibility:start) I will venture the following: it is too early to really know which brands are most reliable. The technology is not exactly new but we do not yet know whether these batteries really will for argument sake give the claimed 5000 or however many cycles. Maybe more importantly we do not yet know which company/companies will even be around to honour a warranty 10 years down the road (anyone can bring in a container of batteries from China, they can even be extremely good quality but 3 years later there could be a "glitch" where the bms starts giving intermittent problems - if the supplier is no longer around you may end up trying to get support from someone in China which can be good or non-existent. ). So with that said if I were to look at letting go of my money i will personally look at who at least appears to have a local foot print - even if just in terms of what most people are using so that there is a knowledge base and possible spares market to tap. My annecdotal observations of online forum discussions (for South Africa as market) and local online store stock carried will therefore steer me towards the pylontechs, BYD, and to have even more local support I will look at Freedomwon and Bluenova.. I am a big fan of lithium for backup power use in the Eskom load shedding scenarios but i also think at times the more traditional batteries have a place - especially when looking at costs. Being independent from eskom and saving money do not necessarily mix easily according to me so you may also need to more clearly identify your main goal.
  21. 1 point
    RikH

    Newbiew - Grid-Tie supliment Solution

    Ok, at that temp your Uoc is 53,13V. Now 500V (max. inverter Uoc) / 53,13 = 9 panels max in a string. 380 Wp x 9 = 3.240 Wp in total. Or: 5000 W (max inverter DC power) / 380 Wp = 13. You cannot make uneven strings so 12 panels is max. Make 2 strings of 6 and parallel them.
  22. 1 point
    Gerrie

    Maximum demand metering

    I’m not sure if the guys on that site have tried it yet, I will probably only be going back there in about 3 weeks time as it is in another province so traveling there is a bit of a mission.
  23. 1 point
    plonkster

    Flood Light Questions?

    He's an excellent seller on BoB. Gate motors... I have a Centurion Evo 5. The power supply is not strong enough to run the motor without the battery. It needs the battery to handle the peak current. Battery fails, gate stops moving (even when the power is on). Two thoughts about that: 1. If you're going to piggy-back extra stuff from this battery, I'd uprate it to something bigger. 2. If solar charging is going to be the only form of charging, in other words the gate will run completely from battery at night, the standard 7Ah battery it comes with is too small. Make it bigger. 3. Uprating this battery will allow you to put up a bigger charger for it, which will in turn mean the battery takes a much smaller hit when the gate moves, which will increase its life. As it is, that poor 7Ah battery (or 9Ah if you spend a bit extra, and hack around the larger terminals) takes a 2C discharge rate when moving the gate... which explains clearly why the battery fails so quickly during power failures, especially if its a few months old.
  24. 1 point
    Nothing wrong with that... just fuse it... If anything goes wrong with the solar charge controller and it ends up causing a short circuit of some kind, you want the fuse to pop and not the wiring to turn unto red hot house-fire-setting elements. That's why I said in a previous post a 10A fuse will be fine. It's more than double what you need, but its purpose is to blow if anything goes wrong... and since the battery can supply a good 100A without a sweat, 10A will do just fine here. I would not do that. It probably won't damage anything, but when you do that you have only the capacitors on the DC bus to cushion the starting of loads, temporary clouding, or an MPPT that decides to rescan... Also... the picture shows 48V worth of batteries on a 24V inverter...
  25. 1 point
    I assume you mean kWh (units are important, otherwise we don't know if that is a peak power value or an energy value). This is pretty close to my own daily consumption. Take the peak capacity of the PV modules and multiply by 5. That gives you an idea of how much you can expect to get from the sun. So if you put up 10 x 300W modules, that will make 15kWh per day. In winter it will be lower (closer to 12, way less on cloudy days), and in summer it will be more (could be as high as 18kWh on very good days in October). If you limit grid feed-in, then of course your loads have to use all the power when it is available, or it will simply be lost. So you could probably expect to offset about half the bill (optimistically speaking) if you aggressively move loads to daytime and stagger them appropriately. As an example, I run my pool pump between 08:30 and 11:30. The washing machine starts running somewhere after 10AM (even before lock-down... I'm the stay at home parent, I do the washing), which means the tumble dryer comes on after the pool pump is off. If I ran my pool pump in the afternoon, I'd get more heat from the heat mats on the roof, but then I'd lose a whole lot of early morning energy. In my case I do have batteries so I could employ that, but why do that if you don't have to In practice I expect you won't be 100% effective in using all the energy, especially since the peak energy will be around noon when normal people are at work (so that's where you want to set the pool pump and the geyser timer and all those things), so you should probably expect a little less than my estimate above.
  26. 1 point
    APV

    Axpert MKS II 5kW Error 08

    Unfortunately the PV input of the Axpert is not isolated as @Coulomb pointed out. So this means any leakage to earth on the panels, whether through connectors or the panels itself, can be a contributing factor towards our problems. However as @JustinSchoeman pointed out, it definitely is not the only factor. He uses the Axpert as a UPS only, so there are no panels involved!!! I hope his setup is the exception to the rule. The earth leakage issue does seem to be very relevant in the other cases, since you ( @charlez ) have also managed to prevent further occurrences of Error 08 by simply isolating the panels (after the first occurrence of the error).
  27. 1 point
    plonkster

    Do Winter Months Produce more PV Watts?

    Closest to Winter I've experienced was first week of November. It was -7°C the first morning, and then the rest of the week was almost "normal" (by African standards). The locals looked at me weirdly most mornings, since I'd take a brisk 3km walk to work and by the time I was halfway there I'd have my jacket over my shoulder , sporting nothing but a T-shirt underneath. (I suppose having "Hermanus South Africa" emblazoned on it one of those didn't exactly help either... cars practically slowed down...).
  28. 1 point
    francois

    A new solar installation

    Very nice!
  29. 1 point
    Yes that's true. Same here in NL.
  30. 1 point
    APV

    Axpert MKS II 5kW Error 08

    OK, so now there are 3 of us with the same type of installation and the same issue - I smell a rat
  31. 1 point
    APV

    Axpert MKS II 5kW Error 08

    Hallo @charlez I believe that simply lifting them from the surface of the roof with cable ties (or whatever) should be fine. It will be quite a mission for me to modify my wiring, since I have grouped the panes in a chunk of 8x2 with only a 1cm gap between them. Hopefully I can reach the cables from the lower and upper sides of the array... My problems only occur in fairly heavy rains. I use the CANADIAN SOLAR 405W SUPER HIGH POWER POLY PERC HIKU panels with MC4 connectors, so it is the same brand...
  32. 1 point
    The cables are 1.5 meters long . Pm me if u need boards or cables .
  33. 1 point
    martynw

    Pylontech BMS zero deg C charging

    Yes, the BMS restricts the rate. I found this out a few years ago because my stack is in the garage and the temperature in there got down to about 5°C during the first winter after I installed it. The BMS limits both charge and discharge rates on a sliding scale depending on the temperature. Since then I built a better stack with about 200mm of solid insulation around it and a proper heating and cooling system which helps to keep the temperature > 20°C in the winter and < 30°C in the summer. This is the chart that I got for the US2000B, presume the newer models would have similar failsafes built in.
  34. 1 point
    wolfandy

    General solar info

    I do not know the Dyness at all, but this sounds a bit low. I would assume 80% DOD, which would mean 2.56kWh available for use Correct. The MPPT will throttle back to whatever power is required by the loads It works ;-) The biggest problem of the Mecer (or Axpert) in this regard is that it cannot communicate with an external BMS and works on it's own voltage measurement of the battery to determine when to switch, which might in reality be significantly different to the actual SOC of the battery. The software ICC offers a work-around for that as it is able to communicate with some BMS's (not sure if Dyness is among them) as well as a Victron BMV, which can otherwise be used to determine the SOC of a battery. ICC then switches the Mecer/Axpert between Utility and SBU based on that SOC data, which is much more accurate. That is what I am using in my own system and am very happy with
  35. 1 point
    charlez

    Axpert MKS II 5kW Error 08

    This morning got Error 08 again after some rain. Thanks to @APV by isolating the PV array I was able to restart the inverter without it crashing again. With the PV array connected the bus voltage would have spike again requiring multiple starts. My earth leakage did not trip.
  36. 1 point
    plonkster

    "Floating" Pylontechs?

    Correct. Correct. On the ESS menu.
  37. 1 point
    Installed one these now. This thing is a monster
  38. 1 point
    RETNEV

    "Floating" Pylontechs?

    Hi @2una - I have actually checked and for me it works. The BMS activates immediately after power failure and all 3 of my Pylontechs operate through the master. Red alarm led comes on after 3 days again.
  39. 1 point
    plonkster

    "Floating" Pylontechs?

    The idea of "holding" the SOC is in my opinion a flawed one, because SOC tracking is always an estimation of a chemical process. At the edges we can be fairly accurate, because we know the voltage rises as the cells fill up, but lower down LFP cells has a flat curve and you can easily end up slowly discharging a battery while you think you're holding the SOC constant. The only solution would be to keep them at a lower voltage, say 51V (3.4V per cell). Usually in a Victron system there is enough back and forth going on that it should not be problem, but if it is, there's three things I can think of. 1. If you're running "Keep Batteries Charged", you can (in VE.Configure) enable Dynamic current limiting for that AC input. This is actually meant for generators. What it does is when a larger load starts on the output, it uses the Multi to "cushion" the blow, so that the generator gets more of a gradual load increase. By using this you make the batteries do something every now and then. 2. Instead of using "Keep Batteries Charged", put the system into optimised mode, and then enable Scheduled charging. Set a charge schedule that runs evey day from midnight for 23 hours and 55 minutes. The effect would be that every day just before midnight it will discharge the batteries for 5 minutes, also avoiding the "error". 3. Ignore the error...
  40. 1 point
    wolfandy

    Another Axpert SOC Thread

    Cool - happy to hear that it's working I have my system running in SBU (Solar - Battery - Utility). As there is no PV available for the Axpert, it will use batteries - which is where your Victron MPPT is also connected to. Once your MPPT production drops below your load, the batteries will automatically provide the difference. If you do not have sufficient battery capacity to get you through the night, Axpert will change over to Utility based on your "Back to Grid" setting One question about this: I do not think that VenusOS will give you any benefits at this point as it cannot control the Axpert. I am running ICC on my Pi, which by now is also able to communicate also with a Victron BMV and MPPT. ICC can then switch your Axpert between SBU and Utility based on the SOC calculated by your BMV rather than the Axpert's guesstimate. If you already have a Pi, then the cost of the software is relatively low. It works great for me
  41. 1 point
    RETNEV

    "Floating" Pylontechs?

    Interesting response to Pylontech alarm from company rep. in the Victron community forum https://community.victronenergy.com/answers/50455/view.html The cause of this alarm message:Our battery has a kind of BMS logic:When the battery is not charged or discharged for 3 days,always in idle state. The battery will automatically shut down and go to sleep mode.Only when the battery is charged or discharged again, by then the battery will automatically activate. So when there is a battery to sleep mode and shut down, our Master battery will light up red light and send message to the inverter show there is an internal alarm. (You can check the first three days of the alarm record, the battery will be used once.) What I want to highlight fist is that. This is a normal BMS logic of our battery, to reduce unnecessary self discharge consumption loss of the system.it will not affect the normal use of the whole system or cause damage to the system. So don’t worry. This situation usually occurs when the inverter sets the battery to the backup power supply, or UPS mode. The battery is not used as often, and it is usually left unused after being charged to 100%. The solution: 1.Determine the working mode of on-site situation. If the customer does not want to use the back-up mode, please set the battery has priority over the public-grid to power the load. 2. If the customer only wants to use the battery as a backup power source, The customer can limit the inverter to charge the battery only up to 90% not 100%, so that the battery will not enter the standby state. Hope these information will help. Please let me know if you have more questions.
  42. 1 point
    COCT budget now includes a R0.25 "incentive" per KW/h to feed in. Still not cost effective for a solar powered home to feed in excess power (it costs you more than you will get back for most homes). But at least a step in the right direction. In my opinion: 1) Vast difference between what you get for a supplied KW/h vs. a KW/h used from grid. Fine, I can accept that one. 2) Around R15.000 charged to supplier for a bidirectional meter (you will never be able to amortize that cost - dead loss to the solar supplier). 3) Increased monthly fixed charge for the pleasure of supplying power (this one I do not get at all). Effectively this means Eskom is still favored as supplier by municipality - small scale solar supply effectively discouraged (while trying to project "green" image).
  43. 1 point
    Youda

    InfiniSolar Plus 5KW fans not cooling

    Hi @RikH Hmm, just like I said - OFF button for turning off - ON button for turning on For example, just press the OFF button for couple of seconds, the inverter will produce a long beep and then it will shutdown. Basically, if the sun is shining, the Infini will stay in charger-only mode. In this mode, it's charging the batteries, but not generating AC. Once the sun will go down, the Infini running in charger mode will shutdown completely. Once the sun will rise again, the box will wake up and will start charging the batteries again. Just keep in mind that it will stay in charger-only mode, so it will not generate AC. If you want the box to supply AC loads, then you have to turn it back on. Manually, by holding the ON button, or via a remote command. If you shutdown one of the units that are running in parallel, the process is online and non-disruptive. The other paralleled inverters will continue to supply the AC. Same with starting the inverter again. Please, bear in mind that my system is off-grid. Your inverters might behave differently if you have a grid supply connected to them. Of course, nobody will do the ON/OFF operations manually, every day. Therefore, you can do it remotely, via WebGUI of the "SNMP Web Pro Card". There's even a basic scheduler available for this: Or, if you have your inverters connected to a home automation, then you can issue ON/OFF command remotely, via script, based on the logic of your choice. Personally, I'm running a few scripts with this logic: SOC: If battery SOC is 25% then shutdown all the inverters. This will trigger the house ATS switch to connect the house to the backup power. If battery SOC 70%, then start the first inverter. This will trigger an ATS switch to connect the house back to the PV system. AC LOADS: Normally, just one Infini is running, other two are in charger mode. If there's more than 4000W of AC load, the other two Infinis are started automatically. EV: if an EV is connected to the wallbox AND battery SOC > 40% then all the inverters are started in order to enable maximum EV charging speed. AC LOAD: SOC: EV:
  44. 1 point
    francois jordaan

    Sonoff switches + house lights

    Hi Guys I have been making use of Sonoff switches for the best part of 5 years now and thought I would share my use I have a dedicated circuit running from my UPS powering 1 dedicated LED down-lighter in every room for when Eskom is not available, to control theses I have installed 2 'utility boxes' in the ceiling with a sonoff 4chpro in each. as these is always on (UPS power) I only ever control them via iwfi. In the rest of the house I have wired basic's directly into the power line (installed in a 2x4 power box in the ceiling) The sonoff power on state is set to ON, in normal use the switches stay on the on position and is actuated via the Google home device in most rooms, setup this way you can override th sonoff by simply switching the gang switch off and on again, this will switch the Sonoff to the ON position. For my pool pump I am using a TH16 with thermal probe, the Th16 is driving a solenoid that in turn is switching the pump power, this Unit can show either humidity (think water tank full/empty) or sense temperature via a sealed sensor, I have installed my sensor on the out line toward the pool to monitor pool temperature, this switch can also set to automatically actuate on temperature (handy if you have a heat pump heating your pool, not so much for solar as you cant set time in conjunction with temperature) I have also given RF unit a go but not all that successful since they launched G1 models for garage and gate motors (you can also use the PIR to switch on/off sonoff units with movement but the PIR sensitivity is way to sensitive hope this is useful to someone Francois
  45. 1 point
    wolfandy

    Sonoff switches + house lights

    US model fits for SA I have bought all my Sonoffs from Banggood. With the shipping method 'South Africa Direct Mail (Tax Free)' the shipment has always arrived at my doorstep within 2 weeks (granted my last order was before Corona). And shipping costs were usually even cheaper than domestic shipping from a local supplier in SA
  46. 1 point
    Gnome

    Pirate ICC??

    Jeez what a response. Better software is seriously needed in this space.
  47. 1 point
    Adri

    Axpert settings for LiFePO4

    Someone might be interested in my monitoring of my batteries : to show true batt. volts and charge/discharge current. I use a Mooshimeter I bought on the 'net. It can display 2 functions simultaneously : my case batt. volts and true charge/discharge current. I connected 3 input plugs to (a) B+ terminal of Axpert, (b) B- terminal on Axpert and (c) B- terminal at the batteries, so creating a small volt-drop. It's then displayed in the 100mV range which is exactly proportional to the current [in both directions]. By quick calibration I measure about 5mV/A. It's that simple and I carry my phone/display anywhere in the house. It has logging functions I haven't mastered yet! If someone needs help/more info, let me know.
  48. 1 point
    There are many factors to this. Weber and I had a go at finding this bug today, but didn't come up with anything definitive. Some reports say that the switch happens at 50.0 V battery voltage, others at 50% SOC, others that utility charging happens all the time. When attempting to not charge the battery, since the battery current isn't measured (at least not in the models I'm familiar with), so it estimates the battery current using other measurements and estimates of efficiency, so it can never get the calculation perfect. So it may be that an amp or two of utility charging will result from that. Is the unwanted utility charging reported by the inverter itself, or a BMV? I did find a comparison to 50.0 V battery voltage in a function that is present only in Kings, but that seemed to be to do with current sharing of paralleled machines.
  49. 1 point
    It depends where you live. In South East Namibia, for example, winter can be better than summer. The weather is dry (not even a wisp of a cloud, cause it's summer-rainfall area), and the temperature is cooler (PV panels don't like heat). This often makes up for the fewer daylight hours.
  50. 1 point
    plonkster

    DC Circuit Breakers

    Basically, because there are no natural zero points on DC, you need more space to extinguish the arc. If you create enough space the arc will eventually die. Trouble is all the bad things that happens while you're creating that space. Heat is created, contacts are pitted, etc. So techniques are used to extinguish it faster. Or to mitigate the pitting on the contacts. If you have any experience with arc welding, you already intuitively understand what I'm talking about.

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