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  1. Congratulations to @hoohloc you have been randomly selected and the winner of a RIOT. Pdf attached. Well done!!! We will be having more give aways very soon! Please PM us your delivery details. Jay riot_cloudlink__a4_pamphlet_electronic_fa.pdf
    10 points
  2. Just received my gift today and so excited to give it a try. Thank you powerforum
    5 points
  3. Battery backup solution for a client who wanted an 8kw Sunsynk with a Hubble AM2. Inverter is limited to 95A discharge which is below the 100A on the battery so the inverter will protect the battery before the BMS has to.
    4 points
  4. Hi. Please can you send me your inverter serial number so I can do a firmware update for you.
    3 points
  5. 6 panels are fine to start with on 1 string. You could easily go to 8 panels or even 9 depending on which part of the country you are in. When trying to match panels, first thing is to look at the Imp rating of the panel, this is the current that the panel produces at maximum power. The latest Sunsynk can apparently handle 13A. Previously it was rated 11A but would clip anything over 9.9A. So you choice is a lot more now. If the Imp is more than what the inverter can handle, you waste panel wattage. If it’s too low, then you waste the mppt capabilities. Once you find a panel with the suitable Imp, next to find out how many you need in series, you look at the Voc of the panel. The total Voc of your string, which is number of panels x Voc per panel, should be less than the max the inverter. The sticker on my sunsynk says the mppt range is between 125 - 425v, and the max is 500V. You should ideally leave about a 10-20% tolerance in case you are in cold regions with very cold daytime temperatures on clear days. So 8 panels is around 400V and pushing it to 9 takes you close to 450V, a bit too close for me. Having too few panels on a string is also a problem as then you don’t have enough voltage for the mppt to start. That being said, the voltage picks up pretty quickly even in low light conditions.
    3 points
  6. It seems like a new website has popped up: https://powersolutionrsa.co.za/ Creation Date: 2021-05-17T10:14:13Z About Us Founded in 2013, The Watt Store, was launched as an E-Commerce website specializing in Solar Power and Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) products. We are based in South Africa. Our access to a huge amount of stock coupled with our 30+ years of experience and expert knowledge means that we are able to provide reliable, comprehensive advice and complete solutions.
    3 points
  7. 2x Victron MPII, 6x US3000C, 3x Victron 250/85 MPPT, Cerbo & GX Touch, Panel meters monitoring PV string current & voltage, ICC & Pi monitoring individual batteries. Added a circuit to switch in additional geyser to utilize excess solar with Cerbo generator start function.
    3 points
  8. Brani

    Tile roof - advise needed

    The bottom of the tile should have been grinded off, your installer was lazy.
    3 points
  9. That's true. He designed and specified my full system, every single thing down to the very last nut and bolt, and then recommended a great installer as well. During the delivery period he was constantly in touch with me, communicating progress, and after the install as well, to find out if I was still happy. I was deeply impressed, one seldom receives such a great level of service these days. Legendary indeed!
    3 points
  10. My Recommendations would be if I understand your terminology correctly you have a 700 Watt base load and a 1.5KW peak load not KVA as that is calculated with a power factor.. So based on that premise you can do the calculations as follows Load 700 Watt runtime 4-6 hours lets work on 6 6 x 700 watt =4200 watt this tells us you need a battery that can store and produce 4200 watt of useable power so the battery you can look at is a BSLB 6.4 KWH or a Hubble AM2 5.5 KWH the Bull has a theoretical capacity of 6400 watt @100% dod and the hubble 5500 watt @100% both batteries are 1C which means they can charge and discharge at their capacity 125 amp @ 48v for the Bull and 115 amp @ 48v for the Hubble you may use a little additional capacity for the peak load of 1.5KW but its negligible. Now for the Choice of the inverter.. Your Continues load of 700W and peak of 1.5KW dictates a small inverter but will limit you to expanding your system so the recommend system and this is based on value for money is a 3KW Axpert clone inverter but they have a lot of limitations 1 MPPT limited solar power short warranty 2 to 3 years and they are basically designed as battery backup solutions or you Could look at a True Hybrid inverter like a Sunsynk Solis Kodak or Goodwe all are decent hybrids 5 year warranty you scope or aim will dictate what you need also note any 3kw Axpert inverter is 24v and not worth wasting money on the Kodak 3KW Hybrid as an example is 48v and will work with the suggested batteries they also have duel 500v MPPTs which is more flexible however a 5KW Sunsynk is probably going to be your best choice.
    3 points
  11. Hi Martin Sounds like you need not such a big system. There are many people whom go for small sub 3kW 24V systems hooked up to Lead Acid battery usually 2 of them to make up the 24V requirements. The problems with these systems are that the quality usually of the especially Voltronics or Axpert as they are also called is not that great for the money paid. Then also the money spent is not much of a saving when compared to a say 5kW 48V system. Then let's get to the Installation side. After people have made this choice they integrate it with their home electrical DB box & then it gets interesting. The 3Kw inverter can run quite a few essentials TV, lights modem & some nice to haves. The minute you turn a Kettle on which in some case can range up to 2500 to 3000 watts then the action begins. Everything goes dark. Because the system is overloaded with the lights & other essentials being powered it cannot do everything at once. However, the 5kW has some more breathing space & the cash spent on this inverter is not so crazily outrageously more money. In the 5kW kettle scenario your system has the room to power all of these at once. If you can afford it go Lithium. The Leadacids are just not as long lasting. The Lithium options also offer bettery protection in terms of a battery management/ monitoring system which will keep an eye on your batteries. Lithium has more cycle life +- 4000-6000 cycles if taken care of. The Leadacids if hurt or discharged inappropriately to a too large a level can be permanently damaged & then you have a very heavy paper weight & no money in hand. Just my 2c worth. Welcome to the Forum 87
    3 points
  12. The Guys at Riot are in constant state of development as far as I know you will get charge discharge rates capacity and so on from Pylontech and some basic Info not as detailed as the Hubble apparantly Pylontech is very protective on their code for their BMS etc the version of Riot Iam getting comes with a very accurate 3 phase meter that can be used to remotely monitor loads in stand alone mode and the Sunsynks MODBUS code will be added too it soon so I will be able to get far more accurate readings from the inverter and battery. So yes it will work with Pylontech but with more limited information on the battery.
    3 points
  13. I assume you mean 10 watts and not 10 Amps. Generally, we are not supposed to add different types of batteries in parallel. Different batteries have different internal resistances, different charged voltages. It will work but it’s not optimal and could result in shortened battery life. So I don’t see any type of protection circuitry in your pictures. Battery fuses/ solar protection fuses, DC disconnect, Surge arrestors. Although at 12V it should be safe, you seem to be expanding the system and you will soon end up with a much bigger system without any protection. 12V can still cause fires. Can the inverter run at only 12V or is there an option for 24V? If it’s a 12V only system, as you have connected, 4000W @ 12V, means you are running about 333A through those battery cables at full power. On a 360Ah battery bank, depending on the battery specs, that should be possible. However, you will need about 100mm2 cable assuming 5% losses and a cable length of 1meter. That’s insane. Losses are also a lot more when running at 12V compared to 24V or 48V. If you can run them at 24V, then the current is half. It’s still a lot at 165A, which means you could probably use 35mm2 cable. What size cables are you using currently. Why would you want to do this? You’ve got a 360Ah bank, if you run them to 50%, that’s 180Ah. @12V, that equates to around 2000 watts for 1 hour and the battery is already at 50%. It would be a lot more feasible to expand your hot water storage capacity and maybe control then remotely through a sufficiently capable smart switch, and if you know you have guests coming, you can turn it on remotely and ensure there’s hot water in advance. Last observation. That multi plug normally has a 16A plug on it but depending on the quality, may not be able to sustain loads at 16A.
    2 points
  14. 2 points
  15. For winter North facing is best. East west is really bad but sometimes we just need to make do with what we have. In summer, east west works really nice. Just a note, on each mppt, you should only install panels in the same direction, meaning you can’t have some east and some west. So ideally you start of with north and then check your loads and see if you need more in the early mornings or late afternoon and choose east or west for the second mppt.
    2 points
  16. And then when you have a good understanding, use this tool: or this one which I have updated for the 5K Sunsynk. PV String Tool.xlsx
    2 points
  17. The battery settings on the Sunsync are really really great. I tell our sunsynk, my battery usage, Use for load only, or use load and non essential, but dont use more than 50 percent at say 21:00, ohh and when you do, dont use more than 3000w , why? Well I only installed a 125A fuse when I should have a 160A or 200A (Again not knowing better) and 3000w maximum at night only , it is well well within that A. The Sunsync has many settings that help you control the battery usage. I dont understand them all yet, but you can certainly use a smaller battery and control the use of the battery in a controlled manner, that no battery company should not honour the warrentee. If they document properly , and say, dont DOD less that 50 percent or dont draw more power than 80A but Ideal is 75A or charge slower than 75A,again, If they document properly, all these setting are possible. Why I did not buy Pylontech!!, they dont have a good warrentee reputation. Although I have learned since then, its also who supplied it. I could not find out who actually is the official agent. Thats very private.
    2 points
  18. Thank You 87 and Jaseza for the insight and feedback, I will try the above
    2 points
  19. It's a scam. Check this thread: https://powerforum.co.za/topic/9199-solar-boks-lithium-battery-special/?tab=comments#comment-99871
    2 points
  20. Hmmm, I think the best option here would be 2 strings, each with a 265W + 335W + 335W. Your 335W will have their output current reduced to 8.66A though, so probably only give you max 329W. Your Voc total is 129.9V which is in the save range of your inverter. Total current will be 8.66A x 2 = 17.32A which should again be safe.
    2 points
  21. I also have been running a 5kW Sunsynk off a single US3000C limiting charge/discharge to 37A with no issues. I also plan to install a second US3000C in the future. It has been mentioned that Pylontech require more than one battery to be connected to the inverter for the warranty to be valid. I have not seen this in any official Pylontech documentation, specifically it it not mentioned in their installation manual or their warranty documents. Personally, I am not convinced by the one reseller that I have seen who claims this. Having said that however I would also recommend the Hubble AM-2, it will give you more capacity, a higher C rating, and is way easier to install. Not sure what inverter you are planning, but a single AM-2 is nice match for a 5kW inverter. Try and push the budget a bit.
    2 points
  22. I am running a single US3000c on a 5kw Sunsynk atm , if you only have small loads to run its fine.(fridges, lights,computers )I run 4 fridges ,4 pc's and a few lights and it pulls about 700w . Just make sure you set the max charge /discharge to 37 Amps for the battery, and when there is loadshedding make sure not to load up more than 1,8kw. Alternative would be to get the Hubble AM2 but if u dont have the money u dont ...
    2 points
  23. Congrats @hoohloc - Well done again - Well deserved! Jay
    2 points
  24. Bernardf

    Sunsynk 8kW

    Yes I can't wait for that new dongle. No more walking to the inverter to change settings like a cave man, haha!
    2 points
  25. Nexuss

    Sunsynk 8kW

    This is awesome , so excited !
    2 points
  26. @[email protected] I think @Boerseun said it perfectly and I shall leave it at that!
    2 points
  27. Tariq

    Sunsynk 8kW

    Did you all see Keith’s video ( today)about the new dongle, which will give us full control over inverter
    2 points
  28. Leshen

    Sunsynk 8kW

    Hi Andy. Always glad to help. I agree with your feature suggestion. I will check with Sunsynk. The products are always under development and improvement.
    2 points
  29. Planning to re-arrange them because I need to add more. Need to create space for 12 more
    2 points
  30. Off Topic here Boys you can do your Measuring contest somewhere else... Play nice..
    2 points
  31. Will also plan to fix mine too, now that I know how its done. Thank you for the info, we learn every day
    2 points
  32. I do spray water almost directly at it, when I clean the panels and it’s from the bottom up. The gap is not a big deal but it looks ugly and unprofessional. I would certainly demand it to be fixed.
    2 points
  33. Leshen

    Sunsynk 8kW

    Totally agree. Will have them look into this. I would have also preferred having the inverter being able to supply 230v or 240v instead of 220v in islanding mode. You do notice it with motors etc. Sunsynk are open to suggestions which is great.
    2 points
  34. Building your own Emoncms dashboards are great fun! Mine is much less colourful, though:
    2 points
  35. Calvin

    Shaded solar panels

    The main problem is that a shaded panel affects all the panels in the same string. In your case, you will lose a big part of the 6 panels in the 2 left hand strings. You can kill 2 birds with one stone if you re-wire to 2S6P with the 2 offending panels in the same string. It will eliminate most of your shading losses and remove the risk of overvoltage damaging you inverter (I am assuming 145V max VOC inverter) .
    2 points
  36. Hello All. To celebrate passing the 10k user mark we will be having a give away to the value of R4900 to a randomly selected active forum member. This will happen on Monday. Stay Tuned! Sincerely Jay
    2 points
  37. I forget the details now, but I'm pretty sure that there is a different estimation of battery SOC (based on battery voltage alone) when in line/bypass mode or battery mode. So a sudden change in SOC when the mode changes is not unexpected. No, this is a quirk of the SOC estimation. It won't affect how soon the battery voltage drops to a critical level. You might need to further reduce the low battery cutoff setting (setting 29), to prevent things like sudden short-term loads (e.g. motors starting) from causing the inverter to drop out.
    2 points
  38. Boerseun

    How To: Mixed Power

    Simple Answer get a Sunsynk or True hybrid inverter system.
    2 points
  39. Wow. This thread really went pear shaped for a while. Seems like every pylontech vs… ends up like that. Strange that Hubble went from a 10 year warranty, down to a 5 year and then back to 10 years. Any idea why this was the case. @LeshenAs far as I know, the pylontech US5000 has always been a 5 year warranty, so they haven’t really reduced. It was designed as such so I think it’s a bit unfair to state that they have reduced the warranty on this. Bottom line is every manufacturer has some conditions and many will try to get out of warranty replacement if the product was not used as intended. On the other side there are people that will buy 1 battery and expect it to do the job of 5. For me personally, Hubble is still very new. It may be a great battery but only time will tell. Pylontech has been in our market for far longer and there are many people using them. Some of them may have had issues. Which is normal. If we have to compare the number of pylons in the market, it will far exceed Hubble and bsl. After some time we will start hearing stories about Hubble and bsl too and people will be upset. I keep hearing about issues with the US3000C but maybe I’m just lucky as I have not had any, I started with 2 US3000, then added a US3000C and didnt experience and issues. Last week replaced the US3000 as I gave that to someone else and I now have 4 US3000C without any issues. I am planning to get 2 more for a total of 21Kwh of storage. Price wise, Hubble and BSL could not match the price vs capacity I’m getting with Pylontech. I don’t care about the 1C but rather about max storage. If one is on a tight budget, then sure the 1C makes a difference and then perhaps the Hubble will be fine. For how long, only time will tell. For me, pylontech is an established international brand. Pretty good chance they going to be around in 5 or 10 years to consider the warranty. Hubble is a local brand, how sure are we that they will still be around in 5 or 10 years… given the state of our country and the crap that we are forced to live with. I’m not even sure I will be around here in 5 or 10 years. Batteries are a huge investment. A warranty means nothing if the company goes bust. That’s just my biggest concern when spending almost 100k on batteries.
    2 points
  40. Steve at powerforum store, nothing but great service, he is in the Paarl/Cape Town area, he can recommend local installers
    2 points
  41. I think that's old firmware. I have the 8kw sunsynk so not sure what the current firmware is for the 5kw sunsynk. @Leshenhas been extremely helpful in getting firmware updates as he has direct contact with sunsynk support.
    1 point
  42. On the 8kw, with the latest software pushing the current to 22A per mppt, 11A panels are nice as you can then have 2 strings per mppt.
    1 point
  43. I had tried vm3.hex several times it didn't work then i changed the name just to see if it changed anything. Chaning the name didn't make any difference both the times same error was poping up. I don't think that changing file name from vm3 to dsp would cause any change in hex file it self or make it king firmware.
    1 point
  44. Is this to replace the municipal meter, or is it going to set between the property (or part thereof) and the municipal meter? If the former then work with the municipality. They will know that a meter with a certain serial number is installed at stand (whatever your stand number is). If they find any other meter they will presume that monkey business is going on.
    1 point
  45. Sounds like you basically need a mini version of this setup: https://www.freedomwon.co.za/freedom-won-powering-the-future/
    1 point
  46. So this is now exactly my plan. I'm going to combine 4 of these into one big box with my 8-16S, 320A Smart BMS that I currently run. The layout works nicely in that I can put them all side by side and have easy connections using the existing cables and even use the current cell monitoring cables adapted into the BMS. Will be quite a big, heavy box though, so might have to rethink that once I've got them all together. Will definitely post some pictures of it once I'm done!
    1 point
  47. Gnome

    Latest version of ICC?

    +1 got the same feeling. Plus the messages I think he sent me directly threatening me not to dare to look at his source code or steal his IP or something like that.
    1 point
  48. sammy

    Pylontech installation

    Hi Chris, Apart from the earthing, please ensure that you have the Pylontech cable going into the CONSOLE port on the top battery, with all of your DIP switches to the bottom, and then (more importantly), take out the cable that says Inverter on the one side and Battery on the other side. If you are using Voltronics inverters (which I suppose you are because you are using ICC), then you cannot use that cable, and it will interrupt all your communication with the Pylontech cable and ICC. Hope this helps you a little?
    1 point
  49. When combined with a Victron inverter, you need only one contactor. The NRS097 requirement is that you must have two relays in series and that a single failure must not break the system (ie there must be some redundancy). The Multi already has one such relay and LOM-detection (loss of mains). Adding the Ziehl with just one relay is sufficient to tick the second box.
    1 point
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