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  1. PierreJ

    Victron DIY Install

    Got the sign-off from CoCT about a month ago, so my DIY solar project is finally done and dusted. Thanks to everyone on the forum that provided advice - I probably would have stuffed it up if it wasn't for you. The whole project took about three months of evenings and weekends to finish, and was a welcome distraction from the current state of the world. 4 strings of 4 Canadian Solar 400Wp poly panels in series, facing NNE. Another string of 4 Canadian Solar 400Wp panels in series, facing WNW. All five strings are paralleled together for a combined
    4 points
  2. I have 2151 and 415, Vassen I believe has 2154 and 415, on the 5.5, there is no list/description of what the latest version, have asked Keith on the sunsynk.org forum, but no response from him, also if everything is working fine, don’t mess with it. As for the reason for separating AC and DC trunking, has be a safety aspect. I have been told it has to do with frequency/magnetic field interference, but what difference would two thin layers of trunking plastic have on magnetic fields, as we all run the trunking in parallel and touching each other, and Theo does not seem to be having any
    2 points
  3. I have my AC cabling on the right and DC on the left of the inverter.
    2 points
  4. CoC requirements are that DC and AC cabling are not in the same trunking.
    2 points
  5. @PaulinNorthcliff Shabir called me (at 22:00, colourful guy ) last night, and added me to a DEYE WhatsApp group with some overseas members. They dialled into the inverter and upgraded the firmware to V3.8.7.6 (3876, don't be jealous now). So now I've taken a reading this morning (31.01kWh used at meter, 71.4kWh according to inverter), and it will hopefully be accurate when I take another reading this afternoon. If not, I will have to get the installer involved.
    2 points
  6. Hi and nice install. im actually also considering adding a second sunsynk in parallel for the same reason as getting the extra mppt. Have a microinverter connected now, but it seems to be problematic with the sunsynk control. regarding your first question, I don’t think u are not allowed to use it. I remember a video from Keith saying that you can only use a generator on 1 of the inverters... something about the inverter and generator needed to sync the frequencies and if you have 2 genies, then the sync is not possible. Regarding 3, I was under the impression tha
    2 points
  7. I am referring to the us3000 as that’s what I have. If I’m not mistaken the us2000 have a rating of 25A which equates to around 1200w. attached an extract of the manual. as far as I know, the 6000 cycles and 10 year warranty is based on the recommended charge and discharge currents of 37A. This is often referred to as 0.5C. Some batteries are rated at 1C but then the cycles drop significantly.
    2 points
  8. The pylontech battery management system limits the charge and discharge currents. If you have 1 x 3.5kw pylontech battery then it willing this to 1.75kw. I have 3 x 3.5kw pylontech batteries connected to my 8kw inverter and it will only charge you discharge up to 111A or about 5.25kw. This only applies when running only from batteries. If there's solar or grid available it will increase the output and blend from these other sources. Edit Pic from my inverter indicating charge and discharge limits. The BMS will change these values based on the SOC of the battery.
    2 points
  9. Johandup

    Sunsynk 8kw Inverter

    Take note that switching power on and off also create surges. On my photo (busy with some rework) you can see the surge suppressor. It prevented serious lightning damage in the db last season.
    2 points
  10. Greetings all, Today I went thru to the offices of preston systems as per their website, (Below), to try and make a purchase. New Road Office Park, 5 New Rd, Glen Austin AH, Midrand, 1685 Tel: 011 504 2250 [email protected] www.prestonsystem.co.za However when I arrived and security asked whom i was their to see, they advised that Prestonsystems.co.za appears to be a scam as they are not tenants at th
    2 points
  11. I used to be interested in Infini hybrid inverters, so I collected manuals. This one is possibly a bit old, but should get you started.
    2 points
  12. It's pretty straight forward. First determine your budget and then what you want to achieve. By the quote of what you are looking at I recon you are looking at a backup solution. You will need to calculate how long you want the backup to run and what the power draw will be if everything running from the inverter is on. First would be an inverter. A 48v inverter would be ideal. Also consider if you ever want to upgrade beyond your initial requirements and if the inverter can accommodate this. Batteries. Depending on budget and how long you want to be able to run on th
    2 points
  13. Probably cost. Finding a DC circuit breaker that can handle that massive amount of current is costly. The choice is yours, all installations I see use fused battery connections.
    1 point
  14. All sorted! Thank you My replies are hidden for some reason when I thank the people that helped the problem was the 500Kbit/s on Can-bus. Once it was set, it started working
    1 point
  15. wolfandy

    Mr

    A normal kit like this is all you need. But I see that all of them are listed as 'Out of stock'. I would suggest dropping Manie an email at [email protected] and ask what he has available The Pi comes pre-installed with RealVNC. You just need to install the RealVNC Viewer for macOS and then you can remotely log-in from your Mac (RealVNC is also available for IOS/Android, so you can also do the same with your smartphone or tablet) You can find the download link to firmware 73.00e in this thread (take the lead-acid version for your case) and follow the instruction on how to
    1 point
  16. Hi The 5kw inverter has a passthrough amount of 48A or 10 560w. What this means is that if your loads on the inverter are 8kw it will pull the maximum available from solar and batteries (if you set to use batteries) up to 5kw and the rest will be pulled from the grid. I have the 8kw and my load once exceeded 9kw. Solar provided 6kw, 2kw from batteries for a total of 8kw for dc to ac and thelance of 1kw was taken from the grid. Your single pylontech battery is also limited to discharge at 37A or 1 776w. You can put everything on the inverter and not split but then the proble
    1 point
  17. Coulomb

    Axpert Inverter Setting

    Yes, Output Source Priority (setting 01) variously called UTi or USb (Utility first).
    1 point
  18. Yip. As Tariq mentioned. I have 2154 and 415. i updated it last week and then my battery discharging was messed up. It no longer used the time of use table. One of the days I noticed my battery still discharging and it was at 16%. Luckily I noticed it. Yeah t was suppose to switch over to grid at 40%. After the latest update, it seems to be okay again. So in future, I won’t be upgrading unless there is some issue.
    1 point
  19. Totally agree. The powerforum.co.za store were awesome for my sunsynk 5.5
    1 point
  20. Why don’t you try Steve at the Powerforum store, great people and I and I am sure they will give you a better deal, there are many people on this forum will vouch for them
    1 point
  21. Have the 8kw. @Vassen what's the latest versions for the 5kw sunsynk.
    1 point
  22. Hello @Theog , neat installation against the wall, and some interesting challenges with the panels! Are trimming the trees not a viable option? The ECOLEC 570 is quite an ancient meter, if you cannot get it to work then you will have to request the utility to provide another one. You use the term "feedback", are you feeding into the grid?
    1 point
  23. https://powerforum.co.za/topic/6875-software-for-sunsynk-pylontech-combo/
    1 point
  24. I use solarman and solarman smart. solarman smart offers some nice data, once setup, click device, select the inverter, then statistics, click on the graph and you will then be able to view different parameters. you can also view the data on the web version of solarman, use the same credentials as the app
    1 point
  25. So it seems not all houses are built facing North (or at least that was wat I hoped for). 1st pic taken @ 15:00 last pic taken @ 18:00. MPPT1 on INV 1 - 6 x 455W Panels Facing E-SE Suprisingly getting a lot of sun and producing around 2.5kW from the estimated 2.7kW Sun hours from 09:00 - 17:00 MPPT2 on INV 1 - 8 x 455W Panels Facing dead NE Data to be captured MPPT1 on INV 2 - 7 x 455W Panels Facing dead NE Data to be captured MPPT2 on Inv 2 - 6 x 455W Panels Facing N-NW (to be installed on Monday) Data to be captured
    1 point
  26. I looked at the data from the web version of solarman when I just installed. I think I downloaded the data as an excel... looked at the daily grid buy, then just selected the days corresponding to my eskom bill and it was pretty accurate then never bothered looking at it again.
    1 point
  27. As others have mentioned. 48V x 37A = ~ 1.7 kw. If you try to pull more than this more an extended period of time, the battery will shut down.... and if running on battery with no grid / solar, the inverter will shut down with a low voltage error. when looking at a battery, you need to look at the kWh as well as the charge and discharge rates.
    1 point
  28. Brani

    Looking to start in solar

    Pylontech 3000 recommended discharge current is 37A and voltage around 50V, multiplied it gives you about 1800W. this setup would have 3 batteries, meaning maximum discharge of 5.4kW. 3.5kWh battery means battery will last under 2 hours at maximum discharge of 1800w.
    1 point
  29. If I may ask, how did you come up with 1.7Kw? and which Pylontech battery are you talking about? the 2.4Kw one or the 3.5Kw?
    1 point
  30. Are you supplied by City Power? If so log a fault with them (or with the relevant utility)
    1 point
  31. Gelo

    32700 Cell Holders?

    They have a walk in store as well forgot to mention.
    1 point
  32. Ok so I couldn't wait, and I put in a new cable for the CT. I twisted the wires myself, but there shouldn't have been any interference, as the wire was run along the ground, far away from AC cables. Inverter says I consumed 11kWh until now. I generated 6.1kWh, so municipal use should be 4.9kWh. However the meter changed by 2.86kWh only. Has someone else (perhaps with a DEYE/Sunsynk inverter) also tested to see if the data actually adds up?
    1 point
  33. Really the start option. The one light being off indicates it is defective. It is also supposed to go in next to the mains isolator. It is also dependand on whether you live in a high lightning area like the Highveld. Just google surge suppressors.
    1 point
  34. As mentioned. The inverter looks like a rebrand deye/sunsynk inverter. I would check what the user interface on the inverter looks like as well as what their support is like. I know the Deye and sunsynk are fairly well supported. If you can, look at increasing your panels to about 8kw. I am generating 55kwh on a good summers day in CT with a low of about 15kwh on a very overcast day. Maybe one less pylontech to get the extra panels. I have 28 x 305w panels and 3 x 3.5kw pylontech batteries.
    1 point
  35. I have a 8kw Sunsynk and it kicks ass. All inverters have specifications regarding the panel watts (not really relevant) and the maximum dc voltage (most relevant). You need to do some reading on this topic on the forum. It is also a good idea to get an idea of your consumption by measuring it.
    1 point
  36. Achmat

    Sunsynk 8kw Inverter

    Managed to get me one of those Ellies plugs and tested a few of the wall sockets and all of them are fine with the grid switched off. I do think not every install will require the earth bond relay.
    1 point
  37. it always helps knowing what installers are doing so they dont end up taking you for a ride. I've heard so many horror stories recently that gives installers a bad name. I installed my system by myself so have learnt a lot along the way. Hope you come right.
    1 point
  38. Many thanks. You seem well experienced with the SunSynk inverter system. I’ve contacted my installer. Hopefully he will sort this out tomorrow. Looks like we all need to be engineers when installing inverter systems. Gone r the days where installation takes place and we sit back not knowing anything & hoping for the best.
    1 point
  39. Hi. Have you installed the earth neutral bond relay?
    1 point
  40. How is the CT clamp cable (twisted pair) running to the Deye inverter? Are you using the same conduit as the AC? Have you joined the cable? Some things from @vassen post in this thread: Try to minimise the CT clamp cable run from running alongside other AC cables, if possible separate the conduit; If you join the wires, try not to exceed 20m; Keep the twists in the cable, they are important for reducing EMI. Perhaps try to run it temporarily on its own and see if it makes a difference?
    1 point
  41. Yes. The inverter will work fine without the dtu. I have the 1200w version connected to the sunsynk inverter and it works without the dtu. As long as there is a grid power, it will generate, disconnect grid and it stops.
    1 point
  42. Hey Iceman There are a number of options to replace those ridiculously priced 2.5AH 12V batteries. Cheapest and easiest is to simply replace them with 3x 7AH Sealer Lead Acid batteries. This will provide you with plenty of capacity and the batteries are cheap as chips (get decent brand ones eg CSB or Forbatt). The existing charger may be a little under rated but the effect is not too serious as the charge time will take longer if the batteries are really flat. Simple job to put the new batteries in an external case as I am sure they are not likely to fit where the old ones went. C
    1 point
  43. You can also check with Deye if you are on the latest software.
    1 point
  44. You can actually also just swap the wires from the clamp on the inverter instead of turning the clamp around.
    1 point
  45. coachpotato

    Solar. Holy Smokes!

    It's too much of a mission, and I have limited space so it will be flat on the roof. The place I bought is +-45 years old so the old plans I was given, don't indicate the roof pitch. I got into the roof and worked it out, a healthy 15 degrees... It's dam low. You have to crawl around in there. So I am going to put 1 string of 7 panels on that 15 degree roof facing 310 degrees (almost NW) and then 1 string of 7 panels on a new steel structure facing 40 degrees (almost NE). But, I'm not sure what the best pitch is for the new steel structure. PVWatts tells me 25 degrees gets
    1 point
  46. Richard Mackay

    Melted MC4

    Thanks! I had a closer look at the MC4 connector. The actual socket (that you crimp) doesn't have a strain relief portion for the insulation of the cable (like the automotive connectors do). The strain relief mechanism is built into the plastic housing. So to complete the installation properly you need to screw the strain relief collar at the end of the connector to secure the cable. The strain relief connectors that I have have a large diameter so I doubt if it will clamp cables with smaller diameters. If the strain relief isn't tightened then all strain on the cable is borne by the
    1 point
  47. Got a defective MPP Solar 10k hybrid inverter (aka Infini 10k) for good price. Me, as a electronics technician, I guess I should be able to get it working again. AC and battery connection power up the device - solar strings unfortunately not. No fault message in the display and even SolarPower not pointing to any defect. I checked the DC switch, but no problem - off course (too simple). Unfortunately there are so many boards installed on the lower side that seems to be responsible for the inverter part, so at least a service manual roughly describing the functionality of each of them wo
    1 point
  48. Which comms port (if any) on the Pylontech battery gets connected to which comms port on the Axpert 5kVA inverter?
    1 point
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