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Showing content with the highest reputation since 30/07/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Youda

    Youda's off-grid LAB

    I'm really sorry @Luminous , but there's not much interesting to share. Just everyday's boring stuff. For example, I had to clearly label the bays in my space-shuttle landing dock, as some (female) family members were not able to clearly understand where they should (NOT) park: Based on the current situation in the world, I upgraded to the AirLock. You know, just in case something goes wrong: And yes, I bought another rack cabinet, so if I will accidentally become a billionaire one day, I will not have a problem with storing some additional lithium for my LAB:
  2. 5 points
    Installation done. I'm really happy with it. way quieter than expected when idling. The fan switch is located to the right of the Jean Muller battery disconnect and when engaged, makes the system completely silent. Thank you @Jaco de Jongh for the customary wonderful service and patience. Thanks @plonkster for the ' Silence fan' assistant tip. The problems encountered during load shedding have all been mitigated.
  3. 5 points
    Luminous

    Youda's off-grid LAB

    Every time I see there is a new update on this thread I open it with the hope that there is a few new pics to check out the lab. But each time I am left with disappointment...
  4. 4 points
    Hi Guys, I'm new to the forum and I have just done my first back up installation. Initially my intentions was to do a back up installation just for loadshedding. But now I see that it will be a waste if I don't add solar panels to the system. I have installed 1xGrowatt SPF5000TL-HVM and 2x Pylontech US2000 2.4Kwh batteries. The plan is to add a second Inverter and at least 4 solar panels for now and increase the capacity when/if needed. I'm not a qualified Electrician nor an installer, but I have a solid Electrical engineering background. I'm not a specialist and I 'm new to solar installations, so I will be coming to you guys for some advice. I'm currently using 4mm2 wires to supply power to the inverter and from the inverter to supply load. The stove and geyser is not wired to the inverter, only lights and plugs are currently wired. With the addition of the second inverter, I'm going to wire the geyser and stove too. My question, will the 4mm2 wires used to supply my load, be ok to power everything including the geyser and stove? Or should I get a 6mm2? Once the installation is complete, I'm going to have to get an Electrician to come and inspect the whole house wiring and issue a CoC. Can you recommend a good electrician in Johannesburg, Randburg area?
  5. 4 points
    plonkster

    DC breaker size

    To me it looks as if CBI made a 150A breaker by slapping together three 50A breakers. The picture on it shows the internal wiring, or at least how you are supposed to wire it. It's "single pole" in other words. (At this point in the message, imagine I'm going off to google a bit and make sure of my facts..) Aaah yes. Here is the spec sheet. And this is how you're supposed to wire it: If you're not actually using all three contacts in parallel, then it explains your tripping point. Each contact is 50A. 50V*50A = 2500. Spot on. A bit of googling shows that the U2 curve indicated there will trip after around 10 seconds if you go 30% over. So yeah... open up the box and check how it was wired.
  6. 3 points
    As promised, below are more photos of the installation. These Growatt inverters works like a charm Looks like I'm going to need more panels. I have used the 4 x 405w panels and selected SOL as priority. Now the issue is that, when solar power is not enough, it start using the batteries and only switch back to the grid when there is no solar or when the battery voltage is too low. Wish it could only switch to the batteries when there is no mains/grid
  7. 3 points
    plonkster

    Backup ups

    Dude... I once saw a motorcycle advertised on gumtree. Beautiful machine, almost brand new. The seller explained that his reason for selling is that apparently "Do whatever the f... you want" doesn't mean what he thinks it does.
  8. 3 points
    Shockin

    Backup ups

    So had to do some sneaky work so wife doesn't find out but I am now the owner of two pylontechs US3000 batteries, now to start putting everything together
  9. 3 points
    Youda

    Axpert King Inverter Firmware

    Hi @Coulomb @weber I see that you've done a lot of work for the PV community, namely when comes to improving firmware of a numerous Voltronic Axpert inverters. I noticed, that you're giving your time for free and also do not posses a sample of Axpert King, which greatly limits your ability to continue with the firmware testing and development. Although I'm not personally using any Axpert, I am a big fan of self-sustainability and renewable energy sources. Therefore, I'd like to help you a bit: I am publicly offering you a one-time sponsorship of 1000 USD, so you will be able to obtain necessary Axpert King sample. There's just one condition: you will include me as a HW sponsor in the Readme.txt file of all the future releases of Axpert King patched firmware. If you do agree, just send me your PayPal address in a PM. This is not a joke. Youda
  10. 3 points
    Gerlach

    DIY Lithium/LifePo4 battery build

    OOooooo yes. I forgot to add photos. Over the lockdown time I got my second setup up and running. My second BMS I order got stuck with the lockdown "it's still stuck in at JHB HUB", so I ordered a 3de one via Courier with a friend in lockdown level 4. My first lifepo4 setup is running 200 days know and the second one 40days, no problems. Planning to add 3de setup when I can get my hands on that BMS that is stuck in JHB.
  11. 3 points
    Blowdart18

    Axpert Parallel - ICC

    Sooooo . . . . Before blaming ICC make sure to check your inverters I had a sneaky suspicion that something else was causing my problem, after posting above that everything was sorted it started doing its same issues of not keeping to the charging priority that I selected. I than decided to troll the forum to see where I might be doing wrong, and I saw that @Coulomb posted the recent update for the Axpert display firmware - some people actually call this the "controller" and not the display. I went to check my versions and bobs you uncle, it is different versions. Updated both of them to 02.49 and have not had an issue this whole weekend. Hopefully this will help some poor soul if they have the same problem as me.
  12. 3 points
    adding to the "how crazy is it to stick a home fridge on a UPS/backup power supply?" topic... my position in favour of doing it is also influenced by the following... (I decided to try harder to reduce my wordy posts ... so the kids can help if the adults struggle): ? ?
  13. 3 points
    stoic

    Pylontech battery

    Ask @Jaco de Jongh for a quote.
  14. 3 points
    RikH

    Planning a new solar install

    I'm sorry, didn't read the entire thread before I posted above. It is already discussed and I would like to add some basic PV knowledge. The max. PV power is the maximum power that the inverter can draw from the panels. So if your panels CAN produce more than that, they just won't because the inverter cannot take more out of them. Compare that to a 2 kW heater that you simply plug in the wall, the inverter powering the outlet can make 5 kW max so will your heater blow up due to too much power? No it will not. It'll take just the 2 kW. So does the inverter work as well, it cannot take more out of the panels than it can use, even if the panels are able to produce more. This phenomenon is called clipping. So you cannot take the max PV power in account as you do with the max voltage. Don't go above that voltage and calculate what the voltage will be on the coldest day you can expect on the location. For the max power you connect I think what is said already 20 to 30% is ok. No need for more, clipping will take the most of the profit.
  15. 3 points
    Louisvdw

    Planning a new solar install

    You always have losses. Nothing is as perfect as test conditions in a factory. You will find that peek power is only around mid day, with a perfect angle to the sun (i.e. time of the year) and were the panels are very cool. In normal conditions your panels have heated up by mid day and you no longer can get the perfect watts out of them. So it is normal to over spec your panels a bit. I would say don't go over 20% more power and never more than the max voltage of your charge controller. Victron's MPPT calculator does not accept if you go more than 30% over your PV power, but you can still do less than that.
  16. 2 points
    Plaashaas

    Axpert King Inverter Firmware

    @Youda You sir are a gentleman! Maybe a gofundme page? I am sure others share your sentiments.
  17. 2 points
    Coulomb

    DC breaker size

    +1. The polarity has to be wrong on one side. The magnetic blowouts (presumed, about the only way they could break DC in that tiny space) will actually work against breaking the arc on one side. This indicates a lack of understanding on the part of the installer. Confusion on how to wire polarised DC breakers has made them illegal in Australia.
  18. 2 points
    Ian

    DIY Lithium/LifePo4 battery build

    Gerlach, that's a very impressive install! I've also been running a 16s2p '48V' 12kWh 2nd life DIY battery using Bain's parts since May. I used the dumb BMS option, so no cell info on the BMS, just protection. I did get a ISDT 8s display that I can plug into either the lower or upper block of 8 2p cells, which was useful for the final top balancing of the cells - along with a homemade watercooled 3.5V 60A load. You'll laugh if I showed you a pic of that. I used Bain's cell connecting parts to start, but replaced the aluminium links with homemade ones from flattened copper pipe. That way I could connect 4 terminals with one bar, and copper pipe is a heck of a lot easier to get out here than copper bar.. I also built up a 4s3p '12V' battery for my neighbour, and could then make one bar to connect 6 terminals. I have a Victron setup (Multiplus, MPPT and GX), and it took a bit of tweaking to get it all running nicely, but I'm super chuffed with the result. This time of the year we need about 6kWh to get through the night, and GX will usually tell me the system has gone from 95% to 45%. We had a cloudy day yesterday, so the batteries were at 50%, and got down to 0% according to the GX at 8am today, but the BMS had still not disconnected. The battery voltage was still 49V, but I was surprised that the cells are reasonably well bottom-balanced as well for the BMS not to have kicked in due to the worst cell having gone below 2,5V. It was about 5C outside, and I was too warm in bed to go and check the cell voltages:) Same story today, so maybe I'll force myself to brave the elements and go down to the storeroom tomorrow morning. I have considered a smart BMS, but now that everything is running properly, I don't really need it. It's certainly been a fun project, and the cost saving over a commercial unit has been immense. Cheers
  19. 2 points
    Starting my own DIY battery build now. 16s3p of Baine's 2nd life cells with a 250A BMS. With any luck I can collect the cells from Bain tomorrow, and some pre-cut aluminium plates from NK Cutting as well. Daly Smart BMS just arrived. Build quality looks amazing, and connectivity up the wazoo. This one has bluetooth, USB, RS232 and RS485. Also has CAN outputs, but I did not order that, so I doubt it is connected. Now I just need to get comms specs out of Daly... For fun, I have also included a picture of the start of my 'play' BMS. Using grab bag Aliexpress parts to see what can be achieved. So far this one has cycled that tiny LiPo at the end a few dozen times, tracking and limiting voltage to within 10mV quite reliably. Unlikely that I will ever finish/use it, but fun to play with.
  20. 2 points
    Coulomb

    Axpert King Inverter Firmware

    Weber and I are considering a fully patched Axpert King (PIP-5048MK) firmware at some point. But this is a lot of work, and it would have to be community tested, since we don't have Kings to work with or test on. With the rapid change in King main (DSP) firmware, we don't want to start this, only to have it obsoleted, and/or have to do it all again to a new version. So we want to wait till the worst of the bugs we don't know how to fix (such as PV dips and freezes) are fixed, and there isn't a new version every few weeks to cater for new battery models with BMS. Forum readers will be in the best position to judge when the firmware is stable. Is 71.92 this stable version yet? Is 71.93 better? For example: I've not heard much about the PV dips and freezes lately. Is that because it's fixed? If so, does anyone know what version it was fixed in?
  21. 2 points
    Herman

    Wind to supplement a Goodwe Inverter

    Louis, I think it might still be true. But compare it to battery costs when no grid is available (and enough wind is), and I believe it is a viable option (with solar giving the base load). My neighbor has been running a wind turbine for the last 16 years, with minimal maintenance cost, supplying him with all his power needs. He still use lead acid's and I am not keen for that. I just believe that there is a big part of the word that do not have access to the grid, where this might be viable. Not for 100 turbine manufacturers, but for a few. My neighbor will need to replace his turbine in the next few years, and I can promise you that proper integration with lithium with put that supplier on the top of the list of possibles.
  22. 2 points
    Over the last several months I have been installing my inverter system bit by bit. Here is my progress (written as a bit of a guide if it helps someone else). Planning My goals are: Have UPS power Offset the cost a bit by adding solar Stay within my limited budget. Be modular for "add-as-you-go" option I don't want to go off grid - that is just too expensive. So I can install a smaller inverter. As I will be doing most of the work myself I wanted something that has very good support and documentation. The natural choice for me was a Victron system. I started off by finding my usage patterns(when) and consumption(how much). The easiest option was to use the Victron VRM cloud. I already had a Raspberry Pi3 that could be used for this purpose, so all that I needed to do was to install the open source VenusOS using the steps from here. (the other option is to buy 'n VenusGX device that already have all the required inputs/outputs). Leave it to get some stats over a month (or 3 if it is lockdown). The ET112 energy meter (about R1100) is a good option to hook up into my DB. You install the meter between the earth leakage and the the rest of breakers. You also need a 3 wire cable (4core security cable or 6core network cable will work fine) and a RS485 USB converter like this one to make the meter talk to the Pi3. The negative(blue wire) go to terminal 6 of the ET112, and the Data A & B goes to terminals 4 &5. Batteries For batteries I decided to build my own using a LiFePO4 cells(4kWh) and a smart BMS. The 15S 100A BMS was ordered from AliExpress and arrived just after the first loackdown lifted, and the cells came from a mismatch special from Sinetech. I created cell connectors from 3mm aluminium bar and connected all the cells in parallel few 3 weeks to equalize. The smart BMS also has a cell balance option, and that helped a lot to get the cells in shape and on the same charge state. There is a 125A mega fuse on the 35mm2 cable to the battery. All the settings on the battery is set using the bluetooth app on your phone that also includes all the battery stats. And built a battery case Inverter Finding that our normal usage is around the 2000W a Multiplus II 3000/48 was the inverter of choice. All the peaks can be handled by the utilities, and if there are loadshedding the stove and kettle will not be in use. For connection to the Pi3 a MK3-USB cable is used. I used 4mm2 surfix wire to connect the DB to the inverter, and another 4mm2 wire for the return. There is a 63A change over switch to bypass the inverter (this is to keep the wife happy while I fiddle). For a month or so I just had the inverter and batteries running on the workbench hooked into to DB. Worked well for the first set of post lockdown loadshedding. Solar panels I installed 4x 335W ArtSolar panels using SolarStrut bar and PowAR snap clips. They are set up 2S 2P using 6mm2 solar cable and 16A Ceramic DC fuses for each cable and a DC breaker between the panels and the charge controller. And using a 100-20 (48V) SmartSolar charge controller. I created a bit of extra heat sink to help with the heat dissipation. The SmartSolar controller is connected to the Pi3 with a VE.Direct to USB cable. Final Mounting All up on the wall. I still need to clean up the wires a bit.
  23. 2 points
    I think the usual bickering about a more efficient DC setup can be skipped. The OP said she (if it be fair to guess the pronoun in this internet age) wanted the fridge and freezer on there. Those things have induction motors, which means you need AC, which means you need an inverter. The end
  24. 2 points
    iMercury

    Pylontech battery

    I see solar advice is running a special. Have used them before and got excellent service. Also lots of good reviews on this site and helloPeter. Just South if R20k.
  25. 2 points
    25 A is correct for 1 US2000 battery module (and 1 inverter). US3000s can be charged at 37 A, so use 30 A. Please no! 52.5 V. Your battery will be floating 90% of the time. Use 51.8 V for better battery life. This should obviously be lower than your float voltage, so try 51 V. You will be running this till the battery runs out, i.e. this is not an emergency save the silver thing, it's a routine discharge limit. So I'd experiment but start with 45 V or more. You should have the last LED still on (6 SOC LEDs; I assume that 1 LED ≅ 17% SOC, bear in mind I've never used a Pylontech). Better yet if you can read the SOC from the battery, aim to turn off at about 20% SOC. One US3000 is quite light to feed "the house", unless you have very light loads. Hopefully, your geyser and other high power draw elements won't be on the inverter's output (so they'll not work during load shedding / outage). The BMS can only "take over" by disconnecting the battery totally. That's a bit of a gamble with the inverter's safety. But I'll leave others to comment on this.
  26. 2 points
    wimsza

    Planning a new solar install

    Have just done something similar with RCT-Axpert with same limitation as Kodak MKII Real live experience 12 x Canadian 410 in strings of 2 (wanted to stay safe) - beware they are big Producing 3.17Kw at 12:30pm and up to 4Kw later in the day (good clear day). As we are on prepaid, I installed a manual change-over switch to ensure that I can access utility power when we have a bad day. Obviously it is one or the other. As to the geyser, we have installed a Geyser Wise and replaced the element with a 2Kw unit - you need to have a smaller element! Also looking at home automation, so thanks to @francois for the links
  27. 2 points
    Louisvdw

    Planning a new solar install

    As part of looking at solar, I would also suggest you look at what are consuming your power. For instance looking at your high energy devices like the geyser, stove, kettle, etc. and replacing or optimizing those will normally give you more energy for less than it cost to put in more batteries and more solar panels. Shifting when those devices use power can also be very beneficial. If your geyser can heat water at times when no one will use the stove/kettle it will reduce the spikes. This is even more important as you are looking to go with an Axpert inverter. Most of those don't blend power, but rather switch the full load to the grid as soon as you go over their max rating.
  28. 2 points
    Ok - and probably yes (my old Axpert does not have that setting). Have you tried changing battery type to 'User'? Then you should be able to adjust those settings Those values all sound about right (meaning that your PV should definitely be sufficient to cover your loads on a normal day and that PV is also actually producing) That also sounds right. I first thought that maybe you had charging from Utility enabled I can strongly recommend this. Not only will it provide you with more detailed insight into what is happening in your system, but in your case it can also automatically do the time-based changing between SBU and SUB for you. I am also using the APM add-on to ICC to automatically switch my pool pump on/off based on excess PV. I bought my own Raspberry Pi and only bought the ICC license from Manie. For me, probably the best investment for my solar system that I made
  29. 2 points
    VisN

    Pylontech batteries expansion

    Look in 'Pylontech battery' > 'Parameters' > 'Charge / Discharge' . I have 2 x US3000 batteries i.e. 2 x 37A = 74A
  30. 1 point
    plonkster

    Backup ups

    I'd go for the US3000. The smaller battery has 2.5kWh storage, of which ideally you should use just 80% or so, and as you can see from the quick number I calculated... you're either going to run out or discharge too deeply each time with the US2500. Go for the larger one, or two of the smaller ones (that would be even better, of course, but carries an extra 10k price tag).
  31. 1 point
    @Gerlach - wow! I have a lot to live up to here!
  32. 1 point
    Rclegg

    Sonoff Switch For Pool Pump

    Yes. Mine has been running for for a few months now. Direct. Do like the water temp idea though, so might add that in the future.
  33. 1 point
    Coulomb

    DC breaker size

    It looks like it is 50 A per section. I didn't realise that the three levers were joined together. The symbol on the middle section looked like something to do with 3-phase to me. If you continue to use this breaker set, you'll have to get something like in the photo above that carefully splits the current 3 ways evenly. If you ended up with an 80/10/10 split, say, then you're only a little better off than you are now.
  34. 1 point
    Gelo

    Luxpower in parallel off grid😀

    Very niiiiiiiiiiice setup just one issue I see here and it's a major one............. Edit out the blue thingamajig in the picture (it will confuse folks with the other blue smarties) and leave only the very smart looking silver stuff
  35. 1 point
    Vassen

    DC breaker size

    If you have a single us3000, then the recommended charge / discharge current is 37A, max is 74 and 15sec peak is 100A. The fuse should depend on the cable size more importantly. 5kw inverter should have dc current of around 100A. I use a 125A fuse on mine.
  36. 1 point
    RikH

    DC breaker size

    150A fuse should be ok. 2500W at 50V means 50 Amps so something else is going on I'm afraid.
  37. 1 point
    Jaaks

    Fact check: Axpert/King vs Victron video

    I had the Voltronic standard 5kVA it worked. I now have the Victron Multi 2 5000 it is bloody amazing. Like day and night, the out of box functionality and impressive support are definitely a winner. No strawberry wot wot and extra software fiddly stuff, Victron just works!
  38. 1 point
    SteveFury

    Deye v Kodak

    Interesting thanks
  39. 1 point
    There is an organisation in AU that tests many battery types. Over the last few years, the Pylontechs have been the most reliable. Unfortunately I cannot find the report now, but it was on the forum somewhere. The pylontechs are good for 4000 cycles, to 80% DoD , with a 20% loss in power over that time.
  40. 1 point
    flower

    Axpert King Inverter Firmware

    I had the same problem with the USB Serial Adapter where it cannot open port. Since i had a USB to USB OTG adapter from a tablet, I resorted to the USB flash technique, which was so easy. Copy dsp.hex to flash drive, then insert into inverter. While inverter is running normally, press top left button for 3 seconds, then press top left button again to choose upgrade, then press middle left to choose yes. Then wait like 10min, there is no progress indicator, inverter will reboot when it done. If it doesn't then press top left button again, and wait. I believe you have to make sure your Remote unit is running at least 2.2. I used this method for a Mecer King and two Kodak Kings in parallel. When i flashed a Kodak King, I initially got error 32 (communication interrupted) after it rebooted, I then reflashed using USB again, and it then worked.
  41. 1 point
    On a practical side we do the following to extend the low temperature in our Bosch A++ freezer: Run it on the lowest temp setting (-26C) We buy the Oasis water sachets (for runners) and freeze these to act as an ice reservoir when the power goes off. We take these with on our Kruger trips. Obviously not now The kWhr consumption on normal fridge freezer units is so high that it pays for itself when upgrading to A++ equipment. I follow these steps even though they are on a good backup system. As we all know backup systems can also trip or fail. When the businesses were closed during lockdown we did not have a single power outage. Now that they are open it’s normal again to get outages.
  42. 1 point
    Methuselah

    Deye v Kodak

    Button pressed! Deye 5kW hybrid possibly on its way. Interestingly, there would seem to be zero technical difference between the Deye 5kW and Sunsynk 5kW (also the Inge 5kW). According to the specifications, the Sunsynk 5.5kW "Super Parity Inverter" may have some differences but, other than some software differences evident on the LCD panel, I can identify no hardware differences. My choice was definitely influenced by the above discussion. Thank you all. I'll report back on installation and operation.
  43. 1 point
    The first four numbers: "2620". Good luck.
  44. 1 point
    Thanks for that. I'll be doing the same.
  45. 1 point
    Louisvdw

    WHICH BMS for my LiFepo4

    I remember being at varsity in the last few months of my studies and just then Microchip released a C compiler/editor for the PIC. That was super exciting! Now I can't remember assembly code much.
  46. 1 point
    Rclegg

    Planning a new solar install

    I've started experimenting with shifting my loads. The geyser for instance can be heated later on in the evening, when the kettle is not going to be used (Generally from 22:00 onwards) I am also planning on installing a gas stove. And almost all the lights in the house are now LED. With the power monitoring setup I have in place, I can see exactly when and what causes the spikes of power in the house and how often, with that data I can start to experiment with shifting the load. Right now, I am experimenting with the geyser - it is not on during the day anymore and the wife has not complained about water temp - so can try shift it to head up only from 22:00 to 5 or 6am or so. Will see how that goes. As for the Axpert (Or its clones) not blending; yep, aware of that and Im OK with it pulling full load from utility when we exceed its max load capabilities. Its not often that it happens during the day. Thanks for the input, much appreciated.
  47. 1 point
    Rclegg

    Planning a new solar install

    Thanks for that. So, no boiling the kettle when on batteries. For now the battery is there to keep the lights on when the grid has failed during the night. Keeping the big loads off, geyser, stove 9Not on inverter anyway) and Kettle, we will stay under 1kw load.
  48. 1 point
    plonkster

    ESKOM grid busy crashing?

    Losing a neutral can cause such weirdness. As one example. Let's start with this almost counter-intuitive statement: In a three-phase star aka wye setup that is perfectly balanced, there is no current on the neutral cable. The neutral cable only carries the difference in current between the phases. If you loaded up the three phases equally, you could literally disconnect the neutral and nothing would happen to the other voltages. Now imagine you lost the neutral, and lets just consider two of the phases, eg: Your house is connected where I put the question marks, across one half of a long transformer winding that forms a voltage divider. Now, again, if the loads on phases A and B are exactly equal, the impedances are the same, and as a voltage divider the voltages are the same. But if one phase is loaded higher than the other (has a lower impedance) it gets a lower voltage. The other phase gets the remainder of the 400V (ish), so in this scenario, you have 130V while the other guys had 270V. Roughly every third house in the street is on the same phase, so one way this would play out is that every third house has 130V, every neighbour to that house has 270V, and the remaining guys have no power... Low voltages like this are the ones that damage induction motors (such as the compressor in your refrigerator). That's because current still flows through the windings, making it hot, but there is not enough torque to actually get it going...
  49. 1 point
    I think the PV Amps shown is on the output of the MPPT, in other words at the voltage you're charging the batteries. 56V*9A is more or less 530W. 530W from 825W theoretical maximum is probably in the right ballpark.
  50. 1 point
    Sidewinder

    DIY Panel Installation

    @VisN You can do it! All you need is : 1) bit of patience.., don't rush things. 2) Help from a buddy's.... mostly to hold/assist when you measure/drill/fasten/align etc. Get into contact with other DIY'ers in your area. 3) At bit of tools. A Drill/Grinder pref. cordless with a spare battery! or a long extension cord. My old (12V) Ryobi cordless's drill has gone through 3 set of batteries, so i just soldered 3m DC wire from the drill DC contacts to a small 12V Motorcycle battery I had handy from my ride-on lawnmover. Last the whole day. Long Tape measure 10/20m? I have a 50. 4) Depending on you roof construction, start assembling all the things you need. I don't know the specifics of each item's name, but Googling will tell you/show you what rails, brackets and fasteners you need. 5) A head for highs!! Especially near edges. Get that safety harness and use it. 6) Take measurement of roof first 7) On paper, draw plans to see what orientation (of the solar panel) is best for your roof. Today's modern tile roof's with lots of valleys, nooks and crammys are not conducive for solar panels. I always look at roof construction, type and most important, orientation if and when I need to acquire a new property. Also do the cabling layout of your strings, so you know howto orientate each panel, and so not having to redo everything. 8 ) Access to good scaffolding is preferable, specially when carrying a 2m x 1m panel alone up a rickety ladder on a double story building in the wind is not my idea of fun. 9) Start with the upper most located panels first, so you don't have to climb "over" panels to install the next row. 10) When any of the above fail, the go back to item 1

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