De0n19

I can say that running a 5kw sunsynk with 6.5kwp of panels and a single pylontech 3.55kwh battery is currently saving me about R20 000 per year in electricity. Battery is only used for lighting, tv, internet, alarm, electric fence, gate motor and can supply power for 6 hours during the night. A sunsynk or deye inverter with minimal battery is allot cheaper than a cheaper inverter and then being forced to spend money on lots more battery storage.

I am thinking that your inverter is only seeing the 1 battery and there is no comms to the second battery.

Sunsynk does supply a battery temperature sensor with the inverter to be used with these types of batteries. I am not sure if it would be helpful to prolong the life of agm batteries though.

I think that you may have overloaded the batteries. The 150v max on the pv type inverters can't combine solar with grid power. The axpert king is an exception. Which means that if a cloud goes over then your 7kw array could produce as little as 700w, the rest must come from the batteries.

All I'm saying is that pylontech is on the market for a long time and they are considered to be relatively reliable. But we should definitely tell them to stop applying lead acid principles to the way they charge their batteries.

Even if your geyser is connected to the mains only, some inverters like sunsynk and many others can still power the geyser from a combination of solar, batteries and grid depending on the setup of the inverter. Maybe if you tell us what inverter you are using then we could tell if it has this ability.

Then there is the other issue of the soc being stuck at 92% and the bms allowing a charge current of 0 amps. Once the soc went under 90% then the bms allowed a full charge again.

I would think the way the pylontech handles the limiting of the charge current would ensure that the battery doesn't easily overcharge.

This is from a single pylontech us3000 on a sunsynk, the bms limits the charge to 37 amps whilst under 90% and 14 amps whilst under 99% and 7 amps at 99%.

This is of 2 hubble am2 on a sunsynk 12kw. The bms still allows a charge current of 200 amps for 2 hours after the battery reached 100%.

I was using 1000 units before solar, now with 5kw sunsynk, 15 x 455watt panels and a single pylontech us3000c i use less than 350 units per month to run 2 electric geysers, a pool pump for most of the day, and an electric stove and oven. An 8kw would work better for me as we exceed the 5kw on the non essential side when the geysers are running. With more batteries i could get eskom down to around 100 units a month.

Thats the same thing i had without batteries, with a battery the ct works during the night as well now.

The polarity is incorrect on your pv cabling to the solar panels. When you connecting your pv cables to the panels you need to crimp the connector with the negative sign to the red cable and the connector with the positive sign to the black cable.

If you dont have any solar panels then you gain nothing by discharging your batteries. When you have panels then you should also only consider discharging your batteries from the early parts of the morning and if set correctly your batteries should get close to its cutoff point whilst feeding both essential and non essential loads just as the solar is able to start charging it. You should have the use timer unticked so that your batteries alway stay full and after a power outage they will immediately recharge so will always be ready for loadshedding.

I dont see the point in trying to limit your battery power to essential loads only as regardless of essential or non essential load you are still paying for the power being drawn from eskom. You should rather lower the max wattage that can be drawn from the batteries and/or the capacity that should be drawn from the batteries and it should not matter which load it supplies. In any case you should be keeping your gel batteries full at all times as they dont like being discharged and recharged continously.

I think the problem is that you are overloading your batteries. The max charge or discharge should be kept under 0.15 x AH rating which is 100AH x 0.15 = 15 amps. 15 amps x 24 volt = 360 watt. So any charging or discharging over 360 watt can cause permanent damage to your batteries. Did you reduce the charging rate when you put in smaller batteries?

Generally when you are tight for roof space its best to get the highest wattage panels available, they will also have the highest efficiency so they would make the most amount of power per meter squared

You should try the tigo ts4-a-o solar optimizers, you only need them on the panels with shading.

I have a single us3000 and have the max charge rate set to 30 amps in the battery screen, when my battery is under 90% it will charge at a max of 30 amps even though the bms can allow it to charge up to 37amps. After 90% the BMS restricts the charge rate to 14 amps and since that is lower it will not exceed 14 amps. So the bms charge values cannot be exceeded but the charge rates can be reduced on the battery setup screen.

"Note that battery charge / discharge rates in the timer are overridden by the values in the Battery Setup screen, Batt Type, Batt Charge and Shut Down tabs." This should be Note that battery discharge rates in the timer override the values up to the maximum specified in the Battery Setup screen, Batt Type, Batt Charge and Shut Down tabs. The timer screen cannot control the battery charge rates but rather it controls the battery charge sources. PV charging is always active and will charge to 100% if sufficient power is available, whilst grid or generator will only charge up to the percentage value set on the timer screen for that time period.

"The entry could also be interpreted as telling the inverter to use 5500W of PV to charge the battery" this is incorrect as battery charging is not limited to the value entered here, but rather the value entered in the battery setup screen.

The short answer is that a sunsynk inverter can do everything you need. Although the hardware specs of the growatt come very close to the sunsynk, the software on the growatt is very far behind the sunsynk.

I think it does have an ethernet connection, but i will just create an additional ssid and have that only running on the 2.4GHz so that will solve the issue, I also now have the issue of when the logger disconnected from the wifi for a few hours, it seemed to buffer all that data and later upload it with incorrect values, it showed that my panels were generating 21 000w which is way too much for my 5000w inverter. I sent an email to joel and support and waiting for a response currently.

In winter my 6.5kwp panels peak at about 4kw at around 13h30, i have north and west facing panels. The west panels production really takes a dive in winter. Currently at 10h30 i can already produce 5kw. In winter i can just about charge up a single us3000 from 20%, I'm sure i could even charge up like 4 of these batteries with my current production

I found that the dongle doesnt want to stay connected to my wifi ap that has the same ssid for the 2.4ghz and 5 ghz channels but rather prefers to connect to further away 2.4ghz only ap