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Everything posted by De0n19

  1. Winter is when i run my solar at max, as the days are shorter and solar output is less and more power is required for heaters. I would use then take say 3250w / 185w = 17.5 panels per string. But 17 panels x 37.4 volts = 635 volts, which would blow your inverters mppt. I would recomend a panel that has an imp @ stc much closer to 11, to be able to get full power from the inverter during winter. I like the JA solar JAM72S20 panels.
  2. I have seen some splitters like that that allow you to run 2 x 100Mbps network links over a single cable by using 2 pairs of the main cable for each network connection. CAN is a bus topology and designed for multiple devices to be connected onto it. I do think though your way probably wont work. It might work if you connect the battery to solar assistant and solar assistant controls the inverter like the way it works with the axpert inverters.
  3. 1.7 amps x 48 volts = 81.6 watts Thats it about how much i would expect 2 inverters to draw. How much of power you were expecting this to draw?
  4. Looks like the battery voltage is indeed 40v to 450v.
  5. How about using a standard grid tied inverter with export power limiting, you can switch on your geyser at midday with a timer to use the solar power and the rest of the day your house loads can also make use of solar energy. Your geyser would probably take like 2 hours to heat up, so plenty of solar energy for other stuff to run then.
  6. The fan for the sunsynk is inside the inverter box, you can hear it when you open the connection panel and the inverter is a bit hot, I've seen my inverter go up to 65 degrees so i placed two pc fans on the heat sinks extracting air now, so they stay under 50 degrees
  7. I have a single pylontech battery and i have set my battery soc to 100 during the night and not to charge from grid at that time. This leaves me with about 80% battery at 4h00, from which time i then allow my battery to discharge to 20% at 500w max. So even with a single battery i will still have enough power in the early hours of the day to run my lights and internet before the solar kicks in. When my kettle or microwave is used early morning, the battery still only supplies the 500w max and the rest from the grid. I bet you left your wattage on 5000w for each time interval, by reducing that it should help.
  8. Maybe a solis grid tied inverter could work with its ct coil to stop power going back into the grid. And also allow the goodwe to charge from grid in the afternoons, hopefully it should just pull the power being generated from the other inverter. This is something i would also like to try in the future.
  9. Attached you will find the solar charging up the batteries to 100% then running of batteries till 94% then charging again
  10. The issue with the growatt with the 145v mppts is the panels connect to the low voltage dc bus, and therefore the solar gets switched off when the batteries are full to prevent overcharging of the lithium batteries that use comms. If you disconnect the comms and use the custom settings it wont switch of the solar once the batteries are full. It seems the pylontechs for the us3000 limits charge to 37A till 90% then at 14A then at 99% i saw it limits it to 7A. Maybe changing the last one to 0amps might cause the battery to never reach 100% and thus never switch off the solar. Let us know if this is even possible.
  11. Hopefully I'm wrong but i think you might have your battery cables swoped. It's a sad day when an inverter dies.
  12. I would like to mention something i have noticed though, on my single pylontech US3000c the max charge current is set by the bms to 37 amps as would be expected. But when the battery gets to 90% the bms sets the max charge to 14 amps. Obviously mine is a 48v and yours a 24v system. No where do they mention a lower charge rate when the battery nears full for my battery and theres not really the ability to reduce the charge rates if you not using the bms connection. Would your batteries not then benefit from using a lower charge rate as well?
  13. If you want to ignore the effects of a power failure then you might as well not install any batteries and just install more panels, this will get you more savings on electricity quicker. Start your install off the right way, only connect loads to the inverter that your batteries can supply. Install a 40 amp battery fuse so that the fuse will blow instead of voiding your battery waranty. As you add more batteries upgrade the fuse and put on more loads on the inverter. Use battery cable thick enough that it can carry the full 12kw load eventually.
  14. 1)I would also like to know the proper placement and quantity of the fuse as normally you would place a fuse at the power source, so to me the best place is at the panels so that if a short occurs on the cable the fuse has a chance to blow and protect the cable from burning. 2) you would need to look at the voltage that your panels would produce in winter and the max voltage of your mppt. The surge protection should be between those two ratings but closer to the mppt max voltage should be best. 3) double pole isolater is a must
  15. I would say to leave the second change over switch so that those loads get permanently powered from the grid, just because I'm not a fan of switching power on and off daily to any equipment. In the event of an abnormal loss of power like power cables being stolen or transformers blowing up and such you can easily just power those loads from the solar.
  16. I read about those issues too. They have made changes to the newer units, being fanless, the ct coil connection board is different, the mppt now handles 13A instead of the 11A of the older type. I think its safe to assume the noise issue is fixed. Mine certainly has no noise.
  17. The sunsynk 5kw is also fanless and completely silent and whilst generating 4.5kw from solar the heat sinks are very slightly warm.
  18. Thanks for the info. So you are going to have 2 sets of pylontech cables going to a fuse and then to the inverter via maybe a 35mm cable? What size of fuse would then be appropriate for this? Or is it better to have each cable fused with like an 80A fuse then going to the inverter? Or is fusing not required in this scenario?
  19. I'm wondering why you would not have the communication link cables between the batteries connected.
  20. I see that you have a 50A breaker to send power to the inverter, this would required at min a 10mm cable to the inverter, the inverter neutral shows it is fed from the neutral bar, i assume this just to be an error with the diagram. The earth leakage you have after the inverter should probably have a tripping current of 63A, some off these are only earth leakage and not over current devices , as this is way too high for the inverter i would rather have a 30A breaker feeding the earth leakage, assuming you are using at min a 4mm cable from the inverter.
  21. If you are connecting the entire load of the house to the inverter then the growatt is as good as the sunsynk, if not the sunsynk can still send back power to the house to feed your loads not connected to the inverter. It uses current clamp which should be connected before your main db. It measures the power being drawn from the grid and will push back a max of just enough power or how ever much the solar can supply so that no power is drawn from the grid
  22. The aux is most usefull when used with a small battery system, as you can set it to supply power when the grid is down and the batteries are for instance above 90%. As long as solar production is more than usage the batterries should stay above 90% and the aux will always supply your load. When there is little to no solar and the grid is off and running off your batteries and the batteries get to 90% the aux will switch off. Another advantage of the sunsynk is you could have minimal load powered from the sunsynk with a small battery and it can still push back power to help power everything else in your house from the solar, this would reduce your electricity bill
  23. I know that some ovens specifically state that it must not be connected to the earth leakage. Is that not the case with your one as well? You could also have a fault earth leakage, mine used to only trip when the geyser was running, replaced the element and the temp sensor and was still tripping.
  24. Your inverter is supposed to be fed before the earth leakage and you should have an earth leakage after your inverter for the essential items. This would require a separate neutral bar for the second earth leakage.
  25. You say you "wont" have the geyser,oven and kettle running during backup, that tells me that you have these loads connected after the inverter. These are supposed to be connected to eskom directly and should lose power automatically when the power goes off. If you have these loads connected to the inverter then you will indeed be overloading the inverter.
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