Scorp007

If one has enough storage or load during the day the north still gives a much higher yield as you suggested. 😀

It means the current to each MPPT is high enough that you can have 2 parallel strings wired to the MPPT instead of using an external combiner box. You will then only use the combiner box to house the fuse, surge unit and isolator without paralleling. As you indicate. East and West then into the same MPPT. This can leave 2 x North string into the 2nd MPPT

This seems like a great addition the the range of inverters we can choose from. Impressive spec with 2 x MPPTs for 4 PV strings. Solar Warehouse SALuxPower 12kW Single Phase Eco Hybrid Inverter (SNA12000)...LuxPower 12kW Single Phase Eco Hybrid Inverter (SNA12000) (Pre-Order) PRE-ORDER NOW ETA 10/05/2025 Product Features Eco Hybrid Technology Energy Management System (EMS) Remote Monitoring and Contro...

Thankks for sharing a great link to cabinets.

This is a very important point as it caught me out as well as I thought if zero export to CT is ticked it won't sell solar.

This is the correct statement. Life cycle of a lot of this are much shorter. Yes those 10-15 items might go on for many more years. There is a good reason why some appliance workshops don't even want to work on modern fridges🤔

With a scope one will see the 50Hz power and superimposed on it the high freq noise signal. But then one must still find the source. This is perhaps why Eskom do not want to try and find the problem.

The 2 kWh you used is the total Watts multiplied by the hours. 2000/12=166.66W on average and it accumulates the power used. If everything was switched off accept a 1 kW hotplate you need the hotplate to be only on for 2hrs. If a 500W load was used it impies it only has to be on for 4hrs. 2 fridges and some lights during the night can easily get you to the 2 kWh used. In my case from 0h to 06h30 my average is 1.7kWh

My 2c worth would be it is not due to transformer or switchgear causing the high frequency. Frequency to my mind cannot be created but is injected from a consumer as @Kalahari Meerkat mentioned. At least the good thing is that the filter is helping.

Cannot give you the best settings. This works for me with the new prepaid meters in Tshwane. Ignore the 3000W selling 1st as yours can be 8000W. Your timer settings will be as per your load profile. I have grid charge on from 17h00 up to 21h00 when gadgets in the kitchen are used to prevent discharge of battery. Also ignore the grid peak shaving of 3500W.

This special starter is what you call a fuse or short circuit. I mentioned it as special as it is not the normal starter. It just makes it easier that you don't have to bridge out the 2 wires. For this reason it is normally supplied with the tube. We are both on the same page😀

I would start by doing the settings on the inverter. If it fails to improve I would switch off the grid and PV and check if the inverter reports a lowering SOC to ensure the comms is working from the battery. Also if might help is you post a pic of the system settings as on the inverter screen. Then give us feedback.

I notice that AC/DC do list a price for a spare dongle but no stock. Quite a price. R3200 for a spare dongle. Others seem to sell below R1000 from what I have seen. Can also Google for prices.

Yes you still want to use the battery balancer to keep both your batteries at about the same voltage level.

You need the special starter that is mostly connected on the 1 end of the tube to replace the existing starter to allow 220V to the LED tube. This only if you have a old style ballast that was not quick start without a starter.