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Faze

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  1. Faze

    MPPT vs Max VOC

    Ok so according to the answers I've received, I can gather that being above the maximum MPPT range will mean the system is not as optimized as it could be, but it's not a massive train smash as long as the VDC is quite a bit below VOC?
  2. Faze

    MPPT vs Max VOC

    Yes all on one MPPT, all 9 in series
  3. Faze

    MPPT vs Max VOC

    Inverter Luxpower SNA 5000 WPV Max PV input Voltage (VOC) 480VDC MPPT voltage range 120-385VDC Canadian Solar 455W panels x 9 VOC 46.6V Isc 9.4A So by my calculations, 9 in series could give a VDC of 420V, I measured quite late in the afternoon and got 397V
  4. Hi. Hoping someone could provide me with some clarity. I have a client whom had a solar system installed very poorly and they asked my help to rectify the mistakes as the installer has disappeared. They have 9 panels in series, North facing, due to limited roof space. I measured the V coming from the panel and saw it was quite high. After pulling the spec sheet of the panel, I realized with the 9 panels in series they are slightly above the MPPT range, but below the Max PV input voltage. What happens in the case where the voltage is higher than the stated MPPT range, but lower than the Max PV input voltage? Secondly, should I rectify this by splitting the string in a 5 and 4 and utilizing the 2nd MPPT or is there an alternative way to do this seeing that the 2 MPPT's will not have the same amount of panels?
  5. Hi. I have a similar issue, Growatt SPF5000ES with 2 x Pylontech US3000C. Data logger showing online, Signal: Excellent and Status: Connection, blue light flashing, but I am not getting any data on the app nor website, it just says Add datalogger, but when I try add it again, it tells me the datalogger already exists. Tried deleting, resetting and reconfiguring multiple times, no change. Have spoken to both Nhlanhla and Amos, still waiting on an answer to get it sorted. Just received inverter back from supplier after they replaced the board with the latest firmware loaded on. Thinking of purchasing another data logger to see if it will work. Anyone have a fix for this?
  6. Hi guys. First time poster here. I have been in the process of converting my house to be energy efficient, currently sitting around 360kWh units a month, with the help of LED lights, energy efficient appliances and just some basic electricity conservation habits. Keeping in mind I have everything still on electricity, no gas, solar etc. All of this in preparation to install a solar system. Now it seems the only electricity hog that is left is the geyser. I have been reading up a lot on this forum and others and I'm battling to get to a clear answer as to what is the most effective way of getting hot water. It seems as there are quite a big divide between what is the best way to go for at the moment. Keeping in mind that I am not looking at an alternative for everyone, but for me in my environment. So some background. I live in a coastal town, extremely humid with warm temperatures throughout the year, winter we barely see anything below 10 degrees and summer we frequently see days in the 40's. Also quite a harsh environment with a big industrial presence, even the best IP66 rated equipment will not last more than 2 years outside in the rain and sun without frequent rust prevention treatment. Do not want to do the whole gas route, personal preference. So I'm more interested in the following: Heatpump, Flatplate Collector, EV Tubes or using a smaller rated kw PTC element and powering it using excess power generated by PV. Currently have a 150L geyser, 3 people in the house with a 4th on the way.
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