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Thank you for the great forum, Safe Driving over the weekend. Sincerely Jason


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Sidewinder last won the day on September 9 2019

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  1. Hi @Hannes Bester, Please post (or report) a picture of the label on our inverter, so all can know exactly which inverter you have. I suspect at this early stage that your voltage going into the MPPT is a tad low, as most Voltronics (Axpert) models have a 40 to 65 - 145 V limit. If yours is one with that MPPT, I'm suprised it's working at all. So perhaps look at connecting the panels in Series vs Parallel, to get closer to the (optimum) operating voltage of the MPPT. Approx 90 - 110V for the model shown below. For the new 450V MPPT models, something like 300 - 380V should be ideal.
  2. @fritserasmus, Best is to ask for 1)picture of the label 2) software version, important if using in parallel. Both must match.
  3. So this SHOTO is a 4.8 kW battery: - so about 2 x US2000 or 1.4 x US3000, so adjust accordingly. Battery spec can be found https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1776/7837/files/SDA10-48100_EN.pdf?1125.
  4. Let me correct it: Same old same old. 4 hours Load shedding at a time. Politicians still doing nothing...
  5. Hi @Guss, Nice drawing of your house. Depending on where north is, less assume it's at the bottom of the picture, I would put the left hand side set of panels next to the right hand side ones, as the trees on the left of the picture will hurt your early morning production. Similarly, the "brown chimney" in front of the car, can hurt your mid to late afternoon production, due to shading. These two shadings is not serious in summer, but in winter, when the sun doesn't rise much, it will influence things. If North is at the top of picture, then the layout as is seem fine to minimise any possible shading during winter. Seeing you have the roof space, I would advise to install the rails with the end state in mind, so it becomes easy to add a few more panels as and when money and PV pricing allows it.
  6. Regarding your original question, i remember i had to remove what you describe as a dummy board as well, but is was 3 years ago, and can't really remember is those 2 chips were missing or the rest of the board populated. I seem to think that the cables were plugged in on the dummy board.
  7. Ah ha...see, I stand to be corrected. Thanks for that. At least you do not need the current sharing cables. In case your system does not come up the first time, don't panic, mine took a few resets, with frantic panic inspections of double checking the cable orientation the first time, but mine is just standard parallel. Hopefully yours is a breeze.
  8. Hi @DaveP, Welcome to the forum... With 3 Axperts & 3 phase requirement, you would not need any parallel kit/cables. Refer to the installation manual. The setting per Axpert would be either Single, Parallel, 3P1, 3P2 or 3P3. Single = for standard single phase setup with 1 inverter...that's the default. Parallel = for single phase with multiple Axperts. Up to six for the older models, up to 9 for the newer models. 3P1 = is for the 1st Axpert of a 3 phase setup. 3P2 = is for the 2nd Axpert of a 3 phase setup. 3P3 = is for the 3rd Axpert of a 3 phase setup. On top of that, you can parallel Axperts in any or all of the phases. e.g. if you had 4 Axperts, you can have 2 of them on Phase 1 (to provide more oompf for the house's requirements), and 1 on Ph2 & Ph3, to power up any 3 ph machine e.g. borehole pump. Alternatively, you can split the large house into 2 (or even 3) sections, each running of a different phase, to balance the loads on each Axpert, keeping below the 5kVA/kW(depending on PF) for each.
  9. OK, so lets jump in..... So to me, the Ingecon looks like a nifty engineered equipment. However, take note of the following: (potential pitfalls - please chime in if my assumptions are not correct, as i have no experience with this inverter) 1) Adding functionality, e.g. wifi, ethernet etc, needs a bit of pc type knowledge plugging and configuring these systems. I assume the IP configs for Eth & Wifi is buried in the software somewhere, and unless you are familiar with stuff like subnet masks, ip addresses, DHCP, SSID's etc, it may be cumbersome to commission. 2) Personally, the biggest drawback of this (and many other newer generation inverters), is that they where designed for a perfect grid, e.g. USA & Europe. What this means is that when the Grid fails (aka loadshedding here in SA), this inverter shuts down. I don't know why they can't utilise the PV power inline, but hopefully you've noticed the inverter does not have Battery input. And no...you can't connect a battery to the PV + & - inputs (as it has 2 MPPT's), 'cos it needs 900V. The only batteries that are that high voltage is the Telsa ones, + that is not very practical. Maybe one can add a Sunny Island to simulate the grid during grid failure, but that is a extra device, cost, wiring, installation and different management. OK if you are the diy type!. So if you live in a area with perfect grid, then this is a good fit. 3) Not that 6 kW unit is to be sneezed at, but before you pull the trigger, you need to establish what you base, peak loads are. Then you have a good change of getting the correct size inverter. 4) The inverter mentioned does no seem capable of paralleling, (I may be wrong here, as the installation manual does show how to mount multiple units), but there is no diagram to illustrate how to achieve this. So if you are unsure of what your establishment is capable of drawing (peak load), make sure the capability of the inverter can handle those constant loads, or be capable of expansion without a forklift upgrade (add capacity vs discard the old and buy new $$$$!) 5) Budget permitting, your base/peak load (during the day, which will be high, due to the nature and time of everybody at home, ac's etc), should by covered by the amount of PV installed, plus a bit in reserve. Else you need to split you establishment into critical and non-critical loads. Think geysers/stove. My solution would be to swop out the element to a lower value (1000-2000W) one's, and then control them to use PV power, when it is available. Even if you have to do the switchover manually for now, with automation to be added in future. And NO, Geyerwise is nice, but in 4IR terms, it is ancient. Think HA (Home Automation), IoT (Internet of Things), MQTT (Message Queue Telemetry Transport). Pity Inverter manufacturers have not seen the light yet 6)If you grid does fail whether from age or loadshedding, I would rather look for an inverter that can support a emergency load, and then obviously, a battery backup system. Feel free to add/delete/improve my take on it.
  10. Same here, been running V cluster of 3 for years on ICC. 1 cable, ICC on parallel & amount = 2. Only down side of such a setup is that you loose the Inverter Temp readouts. Looking forward to 3.0! Just need to pluck up the courage. I hate losing data
  11. Don't worry about O/S's..Just go with the default, then O/s is transparent... Quick overview: You download the image from iccsoftware.co.za. Burn image on SD card. Boot Pi with SD card. Connect keyboard & screen. Configure Pi for your LAN/Wifi environment (to "see" the Internet) Connect Type B USB cable to inverter & Pi. Run ICC(should run Automatically) Get Machine ID E-mail ICC to get temp/permanent license key. The "Help" page on ICCSoftware.co.za has got this all. Just read there. Configure VNC for remote access as well. Later you can try running Windows10 on another pi (4 with 4GB RAM recommended), if you that way inclined, but ICCSoftware are only developing upgraded/fixes on the linux version.
  12. @Doron, From the ICC www.: ICC Pi compatible Raspberry Pi devices: Raspberry Pi 2 Raspberry Pi 3/3B Raspberry Pi 3B+ Raspberry Pi 4 Personally, I wouldn't go for less that a 3B+, specially if you have other cpu sapping app's you are going to run.
  13. Hi @Peter Woest, Please mention the make and model of inverter of your setup, but in general, 1 battery bank, many inverters.
  14. @Crankshaft, I must say I don't "hear" my HA-02's, maybe the bigger the imbalance, the harder they work, i.e. emit noise. or i'm going (high pitch tone) deaf, seeing the wife always tells me! As I have 8 Trojan's & a BMV, I only measure my midpoint, and after almost 3 years, it's still @ 55 mV. In your case it's 200 mV. Maybe it will quieten down, once your batteries are equalised better?
  15. @Richard Mackay, What size pump have you got. I run a 1 kw pump without problems.
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