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Sidewinder

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Sidewinder last won the day on September 9 2019

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  1. @KAROOsolar, You need to advise/check the specs of the battery. Those figures should be on the datasheets.
  2. Maybe just verify on the King lcd screen that the ICC values have been transfered correct, not that i doubt it, but you never know.
  3. @DeeJay, The purpose of the BMV is to tell ICC what is going on with the battery. As you know, the King/Axpert/Infini's doesn't do a good job of that, so hence the addition of the BMV. It would be interesting to know what the voltage of the bank was when the SOC was still @ 78% and the shutdown happened. Then compare that to the setting on the King that talks to Low Voltage cutoff. If I remember correctly (via one of @Coulomb's posts, there is a offset between the 2, so you could try and adjust that parameter so that the cutoff happens @ roughly 50% SOC. Taking a linear approach, tha
  4. Hi @Beat, It's relative easy. Goto setting 28 on the LCD screen. You will not find it!!! You will only see it, once you put the unit in "Standby" mode, i.e. flip the little rocker switch on the bottom on the unit. Then change setting 28 from "PAL" to "SIG" and it will become a slave. You can leave the card in the unit. Save's the hassle putting it back if and when you go parallel. Depends on your future requirements.
  5. Hi @Sammyigt, Good plan, but as you know, all plans are fraught with pitfalls. So they way i see it, most (Li) batteries outputs it info via RS485 ports, and your Pi will have only USB ports, so you need a special cable. These are available, yet pricey, as the current ICC-Pylontech system works. Now if the SHOTO guys have an app to read and display the BMS info, you are getting somewhere, but these are mostly based on Windows/Mac. Maybe some clever programmer/developer has done this for linux. Please check Github. Maybe you are in luck. Assuming you are using ICC
  6. Hi @Pierreh, Your BAK battery is quite a beast.! However, as it (and many other batteries with BMS's) does not "talk" to the King, even though both the King & BAK can "talk".(but not necessary to each other in an understandable way) You see, what we have here is a classical "Tower of Babilon" scenario. Every Inverter and every Battery Manufacturer uses it's own protocol to communicate the salient values of battery voltage, SOC etc. Whereas the protocol is either CAN bus or (mostly) RS485, the data contained does not always match (or line up). So Battery Manufacturer1's
  7. And don't forget an extra wire to earth the panels properly. PITA if you have to do it afterwards, so an extra conduit for that. Earth wire go strait to earthing point, and not via inverter location. Is that thinking right?
  8. The hot water pipes all have lagging on them. 22mm. Yes, I have come to the same extra (12) tubes, i'll be ok for winter. Just waiting on lockdown to finish before tackling.. I want to also insolate the 2 geysers as well, to retain even more heat.
  9. Hi @Hannes Bester, Please post (or report) a picture of the label on our inverter, so all can know exactly which inverter you have. I suspect at this early stage that your voltage going into the MPPT is a tad low, as most Voltronics (Axpert) models have a 40 to 65 - 145 V limit. If yours is one with that MPPT, I'm suprised it's working at all. So perhaps look at connecting the panels in Series vs Parallel, to get closer to the (optimum) operating voltage of the MPPT. Approx 90 - 110V for the model shown below. For the new 450V MPPT models, something like 300 - 380V should be ide
  10. @fritserasmus, Best is to ask for 1)picture of the label 2) software version, important if using in parallel. Both must match.
  11. So this SHOTO is a 4.8 kW battery: - so about 2 x US2000 or 1.4 x US3000, so adjust accordingly. Battery spec can be found https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1776/7837/files/SDA10-48100_EN.pdf?1125.
  12. Let me correct it: Same old same old. 4 hours Load shedding at a time. Politicians still doing nothing...
  13. Regarding your original question, i remember i had to remove what you describe as a dummy board as well, but is was 3 years ago, and can't really remember is those 2 chips were missing or the rest of the board populated. I seem to think that the cables were plugged in on the dummy board.
  14. Ah ha...see, I stand to be corrected. Thanks for that. At least you do not need the current sharing cables. In case your system does not come up the first time, don't panic, mine took a few resets, with frantic panic inspections of double checking the cable orientation the first time, but mine is just standard parallel. Hopefully yours is a breeze.
  15. Hi @DaveP, Welcome to the forum... With 3 Axperts & 3 phase requirement, you would not need any parallel kit/cables. Refer to the installation manual. The setting per Axpert would be either Single, Parallel, 3P1, 3P2 or 3P3. Single = for standard single phase setup with 1 inverter...that's the default. Parallel = for single phase with multiple Axperts. Up to six for the older models, up to 9 for the newer models. 3P1 = is for the 1st Axpert of a 3 phase setup. 3P2 = is for the 2nd Axpert of a 3 phase setup. 3P3 = is for the 3rd Axpert of a 3 phase setup.
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