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Sidewinder

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Sidewinder last won the day on September 9 2019

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  1. Hi @Sammyigt, Good plan, but as you know, all plans are fraught with pitfalls. So they way i see it, most (Li) batteries outputs it info via RS485 ports, and your Pi will have only USB ports, so you need a special cable. These are available, yet pricey, as the current ICC-Pylontech system works. Now if the SHOTO guys have an app to read and display the BMS info, you are getting somewhere, but these are mostly based on Windows/Mac. Maybe some clever programmer/developer has done this for linux. Please check Github. Maybe you are in luck. Assuming you are using ICC to monitor the Axpert, just remember that ICC does not know about the BMS, as it is not supported (SHOTO) natively in the app, thus negating the effort. Maybe if one can "mimic" the SHOTO BMS data to look like Pylontect MBS data (maybe they are closely related cousins - and some parsing/messaging can do the trick), then ICC solution will work 100%. Even if you get the SHOTO BMS info into linux, you actually need it to "control" the Axpert, as these BMS are very clever, they can tell the Inverter to increase/decrease/stop charging/discharging. Let us all know your findings.
  2. Hi @Pierreh, Your BAK battery is quite a beast.! However, as it (and many other batteries with BMS's) does not "talk" to the King, even though both the King & BAK can "talk".(but not necessary to each other in an understandable way) You see, what we have here is a classical "Tower of Babilon" scenario. Every Inverter and every Battery Manufacturer uses it's own protocol to communicate the salient values of battery voltage, SOC etc. Whereas the protocol is either CAN bus or (mostly) RS485, the data contained does not always match (or line up). So Battery Manufacturer1's put SOC in the 1st field, and Battery Manufacturer2 put the same data in the second field, and so the lines are crossed. BMS merrily send data (once the RS485 comms is established), but the Inverter does not respond correctly (because it is expecting SOC in the 3rd field), due to the Babilon effect. Unfortunately, as more and more BMS manufaturers sell into the market, more and more different combinations are created, and the poor man with solar system get's left behind. So AFAIK, the King does have support for Li batteries, and Pylontech does seem to be (hopefully properly) intergrated. You can try and follow the same procedure and you may be damn lucky to get it going, so do try and post your result/effort here. By using "USE" setting, the basic problems of SOC readings not matching will appear. (Documented frequently here on this forum) I would trust the BAK's view on this anytime. For prospective solar installations, I would very carefully check which inverter is compatible with which battery. Unfortunately, Voltronics is already a bit late to this party, and I had hoped that ICC would fulfil that Gateway roll, as it does today with older Axperts and Pylontech, it still is not everybody's cup on tea, as it does add to the existing complexity. My ideal (next) setup would be Inverter - RS485 port - RJ45 Cable - Rs485 port - Battery. Plain and simple
  3. And don't forget an extra wire to earth the panels properly. PITA if you have to do it afterwards, so an extra conduit for that. Earth wire go strait to earthing point, and not via inverter location. Is that thinking right?
  4. The hot water pipes all have lagging on them. 22mm. Yes, I have come to the same extra (12) tubes, i'll be ok for winter. Just waiting on lockdown to finish before tackling.. I want to also insolate the 2 geysers as well, to retain even more heat.
  5. Hi @Hannes Bester, Please post (or report) a picture of the label on our inverter, so all can know exactly which inverter you have. I suspect at this early stage that your voltage going into the MPPT is a tad low, as most Voltronics (Axpert) models have a 40 to 65 - 145 V limit. If yours is one with that MPPT, I'm suprised it's working at all. So perhaps look at connecting the panels in Series vs Parallel, to get closer to the (optimum) operating voltage of the MPPT. Approx 90 - 110V for the model shown below. For the new 450V MPPT models, something like 300 - 380V should be ideal.
  6. @fritserasmus, Best is to ask for 1)picture of the label 2) software version, important if using in parallel. Both must match.
  7. So this SHOTO is a 4.8 kW battery: - so about 2 x US2000 or 1.4 x US3000, so adjust accordingly. Battery spec can be found https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1776/7837/files/SDA10-48100_EN.pdf?1125.
  8. Let me correct it: Same old same old. 4 hours Load shedding at a time. Politicians still doing nothing...
  9. Regarding your original question, i remember i had to remove what you describe as a dummy board as well, but is was 3 years ago, and can't really remember is those 2 chips were missing or the rest of the board populated. I seem to think that the cables were plugged in on the dummy board.
  10. Ah ha...see, I stand to be corrected. Thanks for that. At least you do not need the current sharing cables. In case your system does not come up the first time, don't panic, mine took a few resets, with frantic panic inspections of double checking the cable orientation the first time, but mine is just standard parallel. Hopefully yours is a breeze.
  11. Hi @DaveP, Welcome to the forum... With 3 Axperts & 3 phase requirement, you would not need any parallel kit/cables. Refer to the installation manual. The setting per Axpert would be either Single, Parallel, 3P1, 3P2 or 3P3. Single = for standard single phase setup with 1 inverter...that's the default. Parallel = for single phase with multiple Axperts. Up to six for the older models, up to 9 for the newer models. 3P1 = is for the 1st Axpert of a 3 phase setup. 3P2 = is for the 2nd Axpert of a 3 phase setup. 3P3 = is for the 3rd Axpert of a 3 phase setup. On top of that, you can parallel Axperts in any or all of the phases. e.g. if you had 4 Axperts, you can have 2 of them on Phase 1 (to provide more oompf for the house's requirements), and 1 on Ph2 & Ph3, to power up any 3 ph machine e.g. borehole pump. Alternatively, you can split the large house into 2 (or even 3) sections, each running of a different phase, to balance the loads on each Axpert, keeping below the 5kVA/kW(depending on PF) for each.
  12. OK, so lets jump in..... So to me, the Ingecon looks like a nifty engineered equipment. However, take note of the following: (potential pitfalls - please chime in if my assumptions are not correct, as i have no experience with this inverter) 1) Adding functionality, e.g. wifi, ethernet etc, needs a bit of pc type knowledge plugging and configuring these systems. I assume the IP configs for Eth & Wifi is buried in the software somewhere, and unless you are familiar with stuff like subnet masks, ip addresses, DHCP, SSID's etc, it may be cumbersome to commission. 2) Personally, the biggest drawback of this (and many other newer generation inverters), is that they where designed for a perfect grid, e.g. USA & Europe. What this means is that when the Grid fails (aka loadshedding here in SA), this inverter shuts down. I don't know why they can't utilise the PV power inline, but hopefully you've noticed the inverter does not have Battery input. And no...you can't connect a battery to the PV + & - inputs (as it has 2 MPPT's), 'cos it needs 900V. The only batteries that are that high voltage is the Telsa ones, + that is not very practical. Maybe one can add a Sunny Island to simulate the grid during grid failure, but that is a extra device, cost, wiring, installation and different management. OK if you are the diy type!. So if you live in a area with perfect grid, then this is a good fit. 3) Not that 6 kW unit is to be sneezed at, but before you pull the trigger, you need to establish what you base, peak loads are. Then you have a good change of getting the correct size inverter. 4) The inverter mentioned does no seem capable of paralleling, (I may be wrong here, as the installation manual does show how to mount multiple units), but there is no diagram to illustrate how to achieve this. So if you are unsure of what your establishment is capable of drawing (peak load), make sure the capability of the inverter can handle those constant loads, or be capable of expansion without a forklift upgrade (add capacity vs discard the old and buy new $$$$!) 5) Budget permitting, your base/peak load (during the day, which will be high, due to the nature and time of everybody at home, ac's etc), should by covered by the amount of PV installed, plus a bit in reserve. Else you need to split you establishment into critical and non-critical loads. Think geysers/stove. My solution would be to swop out the element to a lower value (1000-2000W) one's, and then control them to use PV power, when it is available. Even if you have to do the switchover manually for now, with automation to be added in future. And NO, Geyerwise is nice, but in 4IR terms, it is ancient. Think HA (Home Automation), IoT (Internet of Things), MQTT (Message Queue Telemetry Transport). Pity Inverter manufacturers have not seen the light yet 6)If you grid does fail whether from age or loadshedding, I would rather look for an inverter that can support a emergency load, and then obviously, a battery backup system. Feel free to add/delete/improve my take on it.
  13. Same here, been running V cluster of 3 for years on ICC. 1 cable, ICC on parallel & amount = 2. Only down side of such a setup is that you loose the Inverter Temp readouts. Looking forward to 3.0! Just need to pluck up the courage. I hate losing data
  14. Don't worry about O/S's..Just go with the default, then O/s is transparent... Quick overview: You download the image from iccsoftware.co.za. Burn image on SD card. Boot Pi with SD card. Connect keyboard & screen. Configure Pi for your LAN/Wifi environment (to "see" the Internet) Connect Type B USB cable to inverter & Pi. Run ICC(should run Automatically) Get Machine ID E-mail ICC to get temp/permanent license key. The "Help" page on ICCSoftware.co.za has got this all. Just read there. Configure VNC for remote access as well. Later you can try running Windows10 on another pi (4 with 4GB RAM recommended), if you that way inclined, but ICCSoftware are only developing upgraded/fixes on the linux version.
  15. @Doron, From the ICC www.: ICC Pi compatible Raspberry Pi devices: Raspberry Pi 2 Raspberry Pi 3/3B Raspberry Pi 3B+ Raspberry Pi 4 Personally, I wouldn't go for less that a 3B+, specially if you have other cpu sapping app's you are going to run.
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