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SOLARWIND

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Everything posted by SOLARWIND

  1. Here's one more: http://reneweconomy.com.au/the-myth-of-renewables-threatening-grid-stability-17082/
  2. I think we should all look further and then make up our minds on whether it is fair or not. http://reneweconomy.com.au/rooftop-solar-on-every-australian-household-no-issue-at-all-for-grid-74077/
  3. While it is good to have rules in place and standardize on safety, my honest opinion is that the CoCT is busy hi-jacking RE in such a way as to take away all the joy from medium income to poor guys trying to save a buck on electricity bills.
  4. This is where their real value is appreciated: low light performance and particularly suitable where shading and partial shading occur.
  5. Exactly! If NOTHING is wrong and EVERYTHING is according to the Regulations (SANS 10142-1 ETC), the electrician still has to complete the test report (part of the CoC) honestly; i.e. he has to use all relevant test instruments doing the mandatory tests and enter all values on the test report and then he signs, putting his head on a block, taking full responsibility for the safety and correctness of the installation in the eyes of the law. This might take at least an hour or so and the amount to be paid will depend on his tariff structure/rates. ASK FIRST!
  6. If you really want to (or have to) run it in reverse, simply use terminal 4 as the live input and terminal 1 as the live output to the load.
  7. Left to right: No 1 is Live in, no 2 and no 3 is just a convenient terminal connection for the neutral (neutral in and out) and no 4 is the Live out to the load. In other words, the live is connected in series with the current coil of the meter (between 1 and 4). The little copper bridge link on terminal 1 feeds the one end of the internal voltage coil of the meter. The other end of the the voltage coil terminates on the link between terminal 2 and 3 (Neutral connection).
  8. Answer to your question 4: A CoC should not cost anything as it is not the CoC that is for sale. You pay for the time taken to do an assessment and testing of the installation, then you pay for the time and material to rectify any non-complying condition of the installation. The CoC is then issued with no charge (This is the honest way of doing it and anyone trying to quote you on issueing a CoC per se, just wants to make money).
  9. The CoC certifies that the installation is safe (done according to SANS 10142-1 Edition 1.8: The wiring of premises Part 1: Low-voltage installations). Quote: "The provisions of this part of SANS 10142 apply only to the selection and application of electrical equipment, appliances and accessories, which are part of the fixed electrical installation. They do not apply to the construction and safety of the equipment, appliances and accessories; those aspects are dealt with in other standards." unquote. The CoC is issued by a qualified electrician with a Wiremen's License, registered with the Department of Labour. (Just some useless/useful info)
  10. Another way to circumvent the registration, would be to have a complete duplicated electrical installation in your house with a separate CoC for each installation. This might be cheaper in the long run than having to pay ridiculous amounts of money for an engineer to sign off. In practice that would mean for example having two power sockets for each appliance which could be used alternatively as required. (one from the city and one from your renewable source). Do the same with lights. Furthermore, you can then use an inverter of your choice, as your entire second installation would be classified as an off-grid installation.
  11. Fuses or circuit breakers are nice to have and essential if they will blow/trip when they are supposed to do so. My concern is that ANY fuse rating/circuit breaker rating higher than the short circuit current of a string, will not blow (fuse)/trip, so what is the point having it? Or is this a dumb question? Thank you! This makes sense!
  12. Fuses or circuit breakers are nice to have and essential if they will blow/trip when they are supposed to do so. My concern is that ANY fuse rating/circuit breaker rating higher than the short circuit current of a string, will not blow (fuse)/trip, so what is the point having it? Or is this a dumb question?
  13. CoCT already does just that! It was confirmed while I was on an installers course earlier this year where some guys from CoCT were also attending!
  14. Have a look at the shading at around 3 minutes 50 seconds on the video. Is it worth it?
  15. I have to brag, even though I have to wait a while before I can install the LEADSUN SOLAR LED LIGHT! This product is even of higher quality than I expected and I am very chuffed with it! Thank you Jason, also for the professional way delivery was done! For now, here are some pictures after receiving my prize.
  16. If you are out of range of the inverter's charging capability with the top end of the voltage, you may reduce the number of cells to 39 and re-adjust the voltages accordingly.
  17. Float at 1.4 V to 1.42 V/cell, but can be changed. Compromise between maintaining capacity and water consumption. Boost anything up to 1.6 V/Cell.
  18. I've sent you a PM in this regard. Regards Johann
  19. Hi Jason,

    Yes, Wednesday is good, BUT please note:  I give you an alternative address in Bothasig because no-one will be at the one I supplied earlier.

    The address is: 66 Cook Street, Bothasig, Cape Town.

    Thank you!

    Regards,

    Johann

  20. They will look after you if you look after them, but hey, that is the rule for most vented cells. Only difference is, they will out live you (unless you are very young and who knows........).
  21. I was busy dealing directly with the manufacturer in China to import and got a price for them. Subsequently they notified me of a local agent with whom they are dealing with for the last 20 years (other stuff, but also all kinds of batteries). The local company then did the import on my behalf for the same quoted price of R84k. Landing cost was another R6k. We are looking at 300 Ah for this price, just remember it is not 300 Ah lead-acid which is only really less than 150 useable Ah. They are available in various Ah ratings as can be seen from the websites below. It is exactly the same batteries as sold by the American company IRON EDISON. Better to look at their website for more language friendly information. https://ironedison.com/iron-edison-usa-series-nickel-iron-nife-battery American http://www.changhongbatteries.com/Nickel-lron(Ni-Fe)_m2_c10_cu13.html Chinese (original factory) http://www.sjandrews.co.za/ Local South African supplier/importer
  22. They are 40 cells, 1,2 V nominal (thus a 48V bank) and are 300 Ah, Nickel-Iron (Edison's Ni-Fe type). The make is Changhong made in China under Varta (German) specs I believe. I had to get a one day key from the Imeon supplier to change the charging voltage somewhat. (After that, if you want to use the key again, just change the date back to the date you received the key!) Advantage is that you can charge them even without a charge controller with no harm. Furthermore, 300 Ah means just that, unlike the lead-acid ratings which must be halved and then you have 5 to 8 years.... Ni-Fe cells have disadvantages such as higher self discharge rate, but not serious. You can leave them in a fully discharged state indefinitely, charge them again and away you go! They are bulky for their capacity, but hey, they are stationary, so if you have space, no sweat! The life expectancy can be such that it will outlive me (There are still Edison cells in operation today, after 85 years,if google is right).
  23. Well, touch wood! Commissioned my Imeon 3.6 in June last year and constantly feeding it with up to 3.8 kW (real power) PV and still going! Of course, it makes me worry to see Mike's report and I'll keep a close watch!
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