Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Coulomb

  1. Ooh. That's the first time I've heard that sentiment. Interesting.
  2. The EASuns are clones. So who knows what protocol they support, what quality of parts are in them, etc.
  3. Not an explanation, but a guess / speculation: this seems like a missed target to me. The inverters (as in the DC-AC converters) are presumably running, ready to take over in an instant if the grid falls away. So the inverter is pushing against the grid, which is connected to the load, and it's presumably aiming for zero power output. But it's missed that zero target a little, pulling a little from the battery. That's why the load is 1744 while only 1676 comes in from the grid. The difference is 68 W, out of 1744, 4%. I'll assume that the 1W from solar is a measurement error. The battery sees a load of 182 W, so 182 - 68 = 114 W of that is losses. Most of that is idle power, but a tiny bit is I²R losses on the 68 W transfer from battery to load. Call it 4 W at a wild guess, then you have 110 W from each inverter as idle load/loss, or 55 W per inverter. Granted, that's still 25% more than you expect. It's likely that the reported 4 significant digits of power isn't as accurate as that implies. Also, loads are fluctuating all the time. I wonder if they calculate the power factor accurately too. I know that the Axperts actually do an RMS power calculation. If I'm right, then at least the mystery has been reduced from 68 W to 20 W. I wonder if they somehow deliberately aim to "miss the zero target". And/or whether improved firmware could improve on this.
  4. The removable display is the same for Axpert King and Axpert VM III, 5kW and 3kW models. I have no idea whether non-Inverex removable display firmware will work with an Inverex display however. If you have a known Inverex removable display firmware, then you can try to update the firmware even though it appears to be bricked (non responsive). You probably need the removable display working in order to reflash the main inverter firmware. Wait: are you saying that you never changed the removable display firmware? If so, can you reflash to the previous main inverter firmware? You may be able to flash bypassing the removable display, I've never tried it. WARNING! The pinout for the display to inverter RJ-45 port is NOT the same as the regular RS-232 port, so you'd need an adapter. I'm pretty sure I published the details somewhere.
  5. Fault code 06 for 1-3 kVA models is "output voltage abnormal". So as Glodi says above, check the 8 chips near the processor, especially the TL074 op-amps, and surrounding parts. Some of those parts will be further away: strings of 3-4 resistors in series, near the Line and Neutral outputs.
  6. Yes, exactly. You also need some extra firmware, but that comes with the RS-485 port. This document might put your mind at rest a little. It's from MppSolar, another reseller of Voltronic Power inverters; the PIP-5048MG is equivalent to the Axpert MKS II (last column of the table on PDF page 4). A bit long and technical, but it basically says you can use a Pylontech with an MKS II.
  7. Fault code 51 (Output Over Current or sometimes described as overload/surge) is one of the most mysterious fault codes to me. This earlier post says that they fixed it by replacing some capacitors and diodes in the gate drivers for the battery-side (MOSFET) full bridge of the DC-DC converter. To me, the DC-DC converter would be operating much the same with solar charging as with utility charging, except that utility charging is typically at night when it's cooler, and solar charging is obviously during the day when it's hotter. These 10 μF tiny multilayer ceramic capacitors do seem to be sensitive to temperature, so that part fits. 10 μF is 100x higher capacitance than the largest common ceramic capacitors (at 0.1 μF). So they have to use ceramic materials with extremely high permittivity to get the capacitance in a relatively small package (3.2 x 1.6 mm), and this seems to make them unusually susceptible to temperature and even to applied voltage.
  8. Axpert firmware version 71.97 is for 5000 W models only; not 5.2 kW, and not 3.2 kW. Though I suppose that there might be a special Inverex version of 71.97. Inverex seem to have a special arrangement with Voltronic, where they get a slightly different display and metal case, and the power ratings are slightly higher. I assume therefore that they require special firmware. What are the circumstances under which you are seeing warning code 32? Did you actually attempt to flash a 3.2 kW machine with firmware version 71.97 for Axpert Kings?
  9. So that's an Axpert King with orange paint. Unless it's an Axpert King II (these are still fairly new, I've never seen one), the absolute never-exceed PV voltage is 145 V. You're not supposed to exceed 115 V when actually operating, though in practice they'll probably work to 130 V, and start losing power from there. So 169 V is probably stressing the components in the solar charge controller. I think that there are capacitors in there rated at 150 V. I presume that your 9 panes are arranged 3S3P. They must be large panels, possibly with more than 72 cells, to have a Voc of 169/3 = 56.3 V. You'll have to arrange them as 2S4P, leaving one left over. You could use that to parallel your shadiest panel, putting the two panels most prone to shading in parallel. Or get one more panel the same as the others and make the array 2S5P, if that's not over 4800 W (i.e. 480 W panels or less). You mentioned a cable between the PC and inverter; is there a special (not straight through) cable between the battery's BMS and the inverter? That's what warning 61 is about, and setting 05 = PYL requires this cable.
  10. The answers are in the manual: They recommend only a maximum of 1600 W, I said 1800 W. Oops, I see I highlighted the 12 V row, but the maximum voltage is the important one, and it's the same (150 V). Suppose you have access to 300 W panels with a Vmp of 37 V and a Voc of 44 V (just made up these numbers as an example). You want to multiply the voltages by 1.07 for cold winter days; the panel voltage goes up when the panels are cold. I use 1.07 because it's about right for most panels down to about 0°C. So Vmp = 37 x 1.07 = 39.6 V, and Voc = 44 x 1.07 = 47 V. Absolute maximum panel voltage is stated as 160 V, so a max of 160 / 47 = 3.4 panels, so far you could go 3S. 3S would be 47 x 3 = 141 V, still under the 145 V absolute max of the model they likely copied. But when the panels are operating, you use Vmp; 150 / 39.6 = 3.79, again you could go 3S (but not 4S). Total panels = 1600 / 300 = 5.3, so really you aren't supposed to run 6. But I think it's safe, so you could run 3S 2P of these. In other words, 3 panels in series, repeated in two strings, and you parallel the strings. Because it's only 2 strings, you might even get away without string fuses. You could join the strings on the rood with Y cables, and just bring down one pair of wires. You just need one pair of DC-rated breakers (e.g. Noarks), and you're done. Though personally I would bring down four wires (2 for each string), and use 4 breakers (one for each wire). I don't know if you need lightning arrestors in your country; we don't tend to bother with them in Australia (though maybe I at least should have). Hope this helps.
  11. The rested voltage, yes. But a healthy, fully charged lead acid module will rest at a higher voltage, 12.7 to 12.9 V per nominally 12 V module, so 50.8 - 51.6 V. But a small load can easily blow away a few tenths of a volt per 12 V module.
  12. It really depends on the model of gel battery that you are using. Different manufacturers recommend different values. Those are very low value for South Africa, where load shedding is fairly frequent. The above are OK for a "once a year" event, but for regular load shedding, you want to stop discharging at around 48 V (roughly 50% SOC). Regular discharging to 44 V will quickly ruin a lead acid battery.
  13. Ah. I didn't see this post before asking for exactly the above in another thread. This is a clone, so basically all bets are off. But it's likely to be a copy of an Axpert, so the 60 A will refer to the battery charging current. Usually you can multiply this by 25 (typical battery voltage) to obtain the maximum charge power. In this case, 25 x 60 = 1500 W. You can "overclock" this by about 20%, so x1.2 = 1800 W max. I note that it has an unusual Voc maximum, so keep this in mind when deciding how many panels you can put in series. If they actually improved the Voltronic solar charger, then you could probably use 3S in many cases. But if they're just lying about the 145 V maximum design that they copied, then many modern panels can't be wired 3S, you have to stick with 2S.
  14. It's really hard when people just name an obscure brand, and don't give a web page or image. These days, the market is also rife with clones. I've not heard of Sunmagic, and couldn't quickly find this model online. The sticker/label on the side should tell you, or give a big clue. Can you post a photo of that, please? [ Edit: Sigh. I see that you provided exactly this on another thread. ]
  15. There are no parts under the board with the relays, so now I suspect it's on another board. I see a heatsink with a heap of TO-220 devices, that's more likely the battery side. [ Edit: Especially with those very thick cables bolted to the heatsinks. ] Is there another heatsink with larger transistors on it? That's likely where the gate drivers for the DC-AC converter (full-bridge inverter) is located. There may well be a more powerful microcontroller there too.
  16. You can't download Axpert Max firmware anywhere that I know of. So you'll have to request it from your supplier. It looks like you have a legitimate problem that can be solved with later firmware. Perhaps you could upload it to the file section when you get it. You have a Max, because of the LED strip, and the presumed 8kW rating. It's OK for the two units to show different charge current, and they can have different charge limits. They can also have slightly different output power, like 31% and 36%. If they vary by much more than that, the output cabling might have different lengths, for example. You should also have the current sharing (black and red twisted) cables installed, they are hopefully inside some of those conduits.
  17. Those sound like the firmware for an Axpert Max 7.2kW. Is there a typo there? Interesting that a weak or low voltage lead acid battery module can cause fault code 51. I would never have guessed. Perhaps you would benefit from a balancing solution. Also, > the winter temperature is at 40-42 ° C Another typo? Guessing you meant °F or summer?
  18. If you mean that the battery voltage relaxes to 50.0 V after being charged, this is fairly normal, except that one would hope that the relax to a bit higher than 50.0 V. 50.8 V (12.7 V x 4) or higher would be better. Are they getting to float stage? I.e. is the charge complete by the end of a typical day? 43.6 V is very low for the low battery cutoff voltage, if you have regular load shedding. It should be up around 48 V, to preserve the life of the battery.
  19. It looks like (e.g. from this page) that EaSun inverters are clones. If that's the case, it's hard to know what they copied incorrectly, what quality components they used, etc. Is it sensitive to temperature? There was a post a week or two ago (from memory) about how some clone used the wrong type of temperature sensors, and temperature read backwards.
  20. One would leave it to professionals that write monitoring software like Solar Assistant and the various ICC flavours How do they do it? I don't know, but I imagine that they would monitor the SOC from the battery BMS, and when it crosses a threshold (a setting in the monitoring software, not the inverter), the monitoring software sends commands to change the output source priority such that the inverter immediately switches to/from battery mode. I think that all the 450 V / 500 V max PV models do it, plus the King as you say, except for the Axpert MKS II. I thought it was able to do it too until recently. I think it was brought out before that mode was thought about, and they don't bother back porting the feature into the old firmware.
  21. It's highly unlikely. The one in the box is a clone; it uses the "¢" symbol instead of the Greek letter Phi ("Φ") to indicate "phases". They have to be running compatible firmwares. You'd have to find out what firmware the clone is running, to see if there is a downloadable firmware for the SMD LynX (an Axpert MKS 5K-48, either 58.4 V or 64 V). The SMD looks to be genuine, so that' something. I could not quickly find any data or even photos of the SKG-M, to find out if it's even an Axpert clone. You would also need paralleling kits (boards + cables) for both inverters. The SMD will have the appropriate slot, will the SKG-M? It's possible that either or even both will (have?) come with the paralleling board installed.
  22. It depends on how well insulated the cupboard will be. It will have to be fairly big, so for a 40 W heater (for argument's sake) to maintain the temperature at a relatively constant level throughout the night, it would have to lose a maximum of 40 W to the surroundings; that seems optimistic to me, but I haven't done any calculations. Perhaps if it was lined with Styrofoam sheets some 10-25 mm thick, it might work. Yes, here: https://ozleaf.proboards.com/thread/1286/sudden-loss-range-replacement-battery . I don't have those details, because the former owner had the warranty replacement done. I know it was free (I have the invoice for zero dollars), and I believe that they keep the old battery, mainly for the shell to recycle into other cars, and that they have a recycler for the old cells. I guess I should update my signature. I estimate that my EV motoring was 98% solar powered when it was just the Leaf, but now that we have the MG as well, it's probably more like 90%. Still pretty darned good, especially since when I use power from the grid, I don't pay for it. I have a small grandfathered solar energy system with a AU$0.44 per kWh Feed In Tariff, i.e. they pay me 44¢ (about 5R today) for every kWh I export from that system. The battery system means that we rarely use grid power, so the credit from the Feed In Tariff pays for the electricity we do use, and for the fixed costs (so much per day "connection fee" plus so much per day for the solar meter). Our account has been in credit for years, except for one quarter when the FIT inverter failed and I didn't notice. I repaired it myself, and next quarter we were back in credit.
  23. I guess that's one way of showing a photo. I only see one photo though, of the main board. Are there others of the IGBTs, inductors, etc? Well, my guess is that the gate drivers must be at the bottom left of the photo, connecting to the gates via the 20-pin connector. If so, I'm not a far of that connector for that purpose. I'm guessing that there are another pair of those white 8-pin gate drivers (these marked PC1 and PC2, PhotoCouplers 1 and 2?) under the board. I assume that the output filter inductor and capacitor attach via the very oddly labelled PCB connectors marked 190V, 220V, and 250V. They obviously imply various AC voltages, but I don't see how these can possibly be accurate labels. But there seems to be a heap of things missing, like transformers for generating isolated power supplies. Perhaps there is another board with these? And obviously, a bunch of IGBTs and heatsinks isn't shown, as well as the bus capacitors. I see no solar charge controller. Sending 10 kW over those PCB traces seems madness to me. This appears to be a grid interactive inverter, with no suggestion of a battery connection. Though it has IN-L and OUT-L so there must be some backup capability. The 44-pin chip U5 appears to be the controller for all this. It seems massively under powered, and has nowhere enough pins to drive all those relays and all the other things that you'd expect to find on an inverter. Perhaps there is a bigger chip under the board, but I would not expect so. Without a service manual, I don't see how this could possibly be repaired. You seem to have done well to have fixed the power supply.
  • Create New...