Sats Nkamoto

How does this compare to the MB56 kit from Yixiang price wise and quality. Are you a supplier or importer? Do you carry stock?

Hi @DeonBez Thanks for replying. Did you build a pack DIY and did you import or source locally?

Hi all, long-time lurker, first post in a long while. My current setup: 2× Sunsynk 8kW in parallel, 2× Solar MD SS4144 (14.4kWh each, CAN comms to the master Sunsynk). System works well but I'm hitting minimum SOC most nights and the grid is kicking in. I want to add roughly 30kWh of storage without replacing what I have. The plan: Build a 16S2P pack using 32× EVE LF280K (or MB31 314Ah) cells in a DIY steel frame, with 2× JK 200A active balancer BMS. Wired in dumb parallel at the DC busbar alongside the Solar MD batteries — no CAN comms to the Sunsynk, just the JK BMS protecting the cells independently. Only change on the inverter side is updating battery capacity from ~555Ah to ~1,120Ah and turning off BMS_Err_Stop so it doesn't fault when the DIY pack doesn't respond on CAN. Questions: Any gotchas with running a DIY pack alongside Solar MD batteries in dumb parallel on a Sunsynk? Happy with the Solar MD being the CAN "master." The Solar MD datasheet shows an operational voltage of 44.8–55.6V. I'm planning to set absorption to 55.6V on the Sunsynk to respect that ceiling — does that sound right to those of you running mixed banks? Has anyone sourced cells from Cell Supply SA (cellsupplysa.co.za)? Looking at their EVE MB31 314Ah packs. Their Judge.me reviews look solid but would love to hear from someone who's actually received cells from them, especially for a larger order. Cape Town based if anyone local has done something similar. Cheers

Thanks for the reference. Sold to Solo and successfully delivered today. 👍

Cool, I've DM'd you - let's take the conversation offline

High capacity (30A) battery charger. Ideal for charging 1 - 4 (or more) loadshedding batteries inside the window of available grid power (crucial under higher stages). Used it for 3 months while waiting for permanent installation. New price: R3700 - see here: https://bit.ly/402cWJn. R2500 - collect in Stellenbosch or add R200 for courier.

Right through the Easter weekend, I encounter multiple overload situations (whilst on grid), yet not once did the inverter shut down (just sounded the alarm) I prefer not to silence alarms, but if it now seems like a viable option. Either that or just endure the beeping.

My Kodak OG3.24G works like an absolute dream but I can't find the setting that will allow me to use more than the inverter's max output (3kW) while under normal operation (no loadshedding) without having to switch the 3-way breaker back to "no loadshedding". In other words, I want to use more than the rated max 3kW on the essential circuits while not loadshedding (eg. kettle + dishwasher + washing machine) On overload, it beeps profusely but has never actually shut down as it does when an overload occurs running off batteries.

Thanks for the tip, @Modina

Me again...I took delivery of my Kodak OG3.24 and two Halo 100Ah last week after absorbing as much as I could on the 3kW budget solution threads on this forum. Got really good service from the team at the PowerForum Store. 🥰 I will be connecting the 2 Halos in series and to that end I got some 25mm2 battery cable & M8 lugs today. My first question: Would it be acceptable to power the inverter with 1mm2 cabtyre (AC in) for now and the same for AC out as a temporary measure, using the setup like the RCT1000 inverter trolley I damaged?(I will use the 25mm2 cables to connect the batts from the get go). Then, once I get the electrician to site: My tiny house has a main DB and a sub DB (10m away on the opposite side). My idea is to have the setup installed right next to the main DB, complete with an auto switchover (this one seems to get the most thumbs ups: https://www.takealot.com/automatic-changeover-switch-2-pole-63a/PLID91215945) The breaker that feeds the sub DB will probably have to be wired as an essential, but how do I auto isolate the geyser on that sub DB? The rest of the sub DB (fridge, coffee machine, 1000W microwave) can probs stay as essentials.

The link I sent was actually the wrong one - it shows the 20A version. The one I intended to share was this one: https://www.livestainable.co.za/product/victron-energy-blue-smart-ip22-12-301-230v-cee-7-7-battery-charger/ which is the IP22 30A (with a single set of output terminals) model. I've placed my order and will update this thread with the result. Thanks for all the input, guys - much appreciated.

This is the maximum (80%) according to @DouglasBray which amounts to 60A of current in total. Not sure if I'm up for 2x Victrons.... All this while I wait to have my 8kW Sunsynk + 14.3kWh SolarMD installed at the house I'm building. I need to get through the last 9 months of building.

Thanks, @TaliaB but do I really need the IP65 "waterproofness" when I'm installing the system inside? Maybe I'm missing something, but the IP22 model is cheaper and has a higher charging capacity (30A vs 25A)

https://www.livestainable.co.za/product/victron-energy-blue-smart-ip22-12-203-230v-cee-7-7-battery-charger/ any experience with this product and supplier?

With my 2x C-Teks (10A) I'm going from 12V to about 12.6V in the 6hrs between L/S. With a 2000W noisy inverter, I've only managed to run my son's high-powered gaming laptop and external screen and a 65" TV up to about 15mins ago. I clearly need more Amps! What are the options in the 30A range? @TaliaB already mentioned the Victron.

You're right, but I've had the one for a while ('sunk cost') and I figured "it almost works, let me just double up for now"

Thanks, Modina - I handed it in to Incredible Connection - let's see what comes of it.

I have 3x 100Ah Lead Acid deep cycle batteries connected in parallel to a 2000W modified sine wave inverter (Outdoor Warehouse). I've been charging this bank with a 5A C-Tek smart charger, but I'm not keeping up with the loadshedding cycles. 1) Would a 2nd identical C-Tek increase the charge - I believe charging at 10A into 3x 100Ah should be under the safe limit 2) What would the ultimate wiring setup be (see my horrible sketch attached comparing two simple methods)

I added a 2nd battery in parallel using the terminals at the back of the unit. Did I miss something? Is it possible that I somehow damaged (both) batteries and that I'm now unable to get to the minimum voltage to get the inverter to work?

It has a single 100Ah Gel Battery

I've been using this popular RCT product for about 3 months with no issues but a week or so ago, it stopped working. It displays an E02 alarm code and does not produce 220VAC any longer. Also, even though it has been standing plugged in for the whole time, the battery SOC shows 2 bars and measures 12.3V. I've tried a few things: restarting, changing mode to 2,3, then back to 1. reconnecting the internal battery, disconnecting the 2nd gel battery. Nothing will get it back to life. Is there anything else I can try, failing which, does anyone know of someone in the Cape Town area that will take a look at this unit?

Stellenbosch