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Luminous

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Everything posted by Luminous

  1. Nicely done EdDee! I always wondered if you could not use your standard 3kw element with a decent PWM or PID controller running at 5hz switching on the element till you see you are now pulling over a set power limit from the grid and then throttle it back a bit. With this you can still use your standard thermostat safely. My concern with using a rpi is that if the program crash or has a glitch then you might overheat the geyser. Do you have a supplier name that made that element for you?
  2. Another confusion is that the 5.5kw and the 8.8kw does not use the same markings for connecting up the GEN/GRID/LOAD. 8.8kw is GRID/GEN/LOAD 5.5kw is GEN/LOAD/GRID 8.8kw is X/N/L 5.5kw is L/N/E
  3. You can check on the solarman smart app. 1.Select your plant. 2. 3 dots top right 3. Plant info 4. System Type : Storage System You would see your home page updating with your battery info as well.
  4. I saw this document from Revov when I was checking setting for my own battery. You can double check that. https://revov.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/Revov-Sunsynk-Technical-Doc.pdf
  5. Doubt you are going to get anywhere. People have too much work thesedays. From my own experience contractors must have 10 jobs lined up at the rate that they respond or come back to one currently. You would contact them and then hear nothing and 3 days later they followup. Then move the appointment like 2 times, then never send you the quote. So my guess is don't expect someone jumping at the request for work.
  6. Don't you have space in the garage maybe? My Sunsynk is around 20m from the main DB. Cabling might just be a bit more but would not cause a problem. I went with 16mm2. Just check if you can get the CT clamp within the 10-12m distance. There is some guys that added a PC fan on top of the inverter. For these you can get a slow turning one that will limit the internal fan.
  7. The guy doing my install said why they don't use the thin dc strand for AC is because there is lots of little sparks between the inner part of the cable. The solid core is to limit the sparks between the strands inside the cable.
  8. My suggestion would be to go with something bigger than 2.5. The price is not that much higher. Either 4mm or 6mm.
  9. I feel they could have spend a bit more time on those adopters or make a better one. Those are flimsy and after the second time you try to fit it nicely it is worn out.
  10. I can assist with a hydraulic crimper in Randpark Ridge.
  11. Thank you Vassen. Think I am going with the Jinko solar 405w panels. Let's see how they turn out.
  12. Hi All, Seems like both is in the same quality bracket but from personal experience which one would you choose? The Canadian is around 15%/watt more expensive for the same size. I currently have Canadian's on my one site but have to choose again for a new site.
  13. I bought a 200a shunt with a 16bit ADC and will link that up to a nodemcu and access the data over the internet. Will see how it turns out.
  14. Have not seen it in SA but I saw one of the Victron installation videos where they use only regular solar panels with a seal on the roof in place of the normal roof.
  15. Where do we slot in the earth bonding relay. If GRID fails do we then bind do Neutral-Earth bond with the relay. Meaning LOAD neutral will be connect to the 3 neutral and the DB neutral from the GRID?
  16. I was wondering the same how one would wire your geyser into the normal DB but also include it on the aux output of the sunsynk
  17. I am also in the process for my DIY. I went with 16 x 120ah. I have made up the battery busbars. So this weekend will be Drilling them out and connecting. Then making some angle iron brackets to fit the battery. I went with the ANT smart BMS. I think Sunsynk need to do some work to build comms with this BMS, there might be a market for it.
  18. Anyone having information regarding the Itron EM420i for COJ/CIty Power. Would that allow feedback or will it cause problems?
  19. I bought a few meters of them at ACDC. Check with one closes to you. It was a year or 2 ago and was like R13p/m if not mistaken.
  20. Okay, looks like the 10mm cable will be the best. Might get away with 15m per run. DB1 to inverter to power inverter 15m Inverter to DB1 for critical loads 15m Future plan: The inverter has a smart ouput where if there is extra solar during the day it can dump into that output. Maybe geyser and pool pump. How would one wire this to output to the geyser and poolpump to run normally off grid during the day but if there is extra solar run it on that circuit. Or is this where the pass through power rating comes through? This will then require the 3rd run of 15m from inverter to DB1 geyser/poolpump
  21. Hi All, Planning to setup a sunsynk 5.5 inverter. One of the big issues that I am debating is about the wire size and the best route for it. To run the sunsynk optimal one would need sets of wire( 1 going to inverter and 2 return from inverter). The problem that I have is, I want to install the inverter in the garage but the length is around 20m each way. That will work out to around 60m+ of 6mm2 cable at around R50/60pm it would work out to around R3k just for the wire. Now my thinking is that the main incoming line of power sits outside the garage, can I split the connection on the outside box of the garage and have a disconnect on the line that goes to the inverter and the original one that goes to the main DB will then still go there? This is a rough sketch. Red : Main DB Brown : Solar panels Orange : Inverter installation Yellow : incoming main line box outside garage Green: Run in the roof Blue line : Double brick in the roof with holes
  22. Saw another inverter this morning that popped up, looks like either a clone or a replica of the Synsynk inverter. Called something like OHM inverter
  23. I am based in the Gauteng Area - Randburg/West Rand You can download the spec sheet below. this one is KSG-4k version Omega KSG1.5-6KW (1).pdf
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