Peter Topp

Hi
I see the pictures show only one with grid use at 5:21 in the afternoon, which I failed to see. I find it interesting about the lag of the MPPT response, which makes complete sense.
The PV panel won't produce more than is needed. The excess power produced can't be stored anywhere other than the batteries, which show they are fully charged.
The PV panels will give more power if fed back into the grid.
There is most probably no problem at all, as KM has indicated.
To get the most out of the PV panels installed (8880w) is to do all the heavy-duty work and use the power-hungry appliances (electric geyser, electric hotplates, electric kettle, iron, aircon, etc) during the day if you can't feed back to the grid. Be sure to switch a geyser and aircon off at night, as it will be expensive, or they will drain the battery quickly if not tied to the grid.

Is ToU enabled and what is the SoC setting for those times of the day, matching your screenshots?
I don't see huge current out of the battery, so, since you seem to have no grid, this is fairly normal behaviour,, adding a few Watt from the battery to the solar mix, since the MPPT response is not that fast...

Hi
I suppose it depends how tall you are.
I think eye level would be best with the specified clearances given in the manual.

Hi TaliaB
I have checked all the settings and found one wrong setting. I had AC coupled on the load side in Aux, ticked. This correction fixed the current flow arrows on the unit to show correctly.
The inverter readings and function all work correctly. The readings in the app are still all wrong.
I first thought it was the CT, as when I test the generator, I switch off the mains power in the inverter DB, which isolates the CT. It was not the problem, as I changed this by switching off in the main Municipal DB box.

1.Verify AUX is set to Generator Input
On the inverter screen: Go to Settings > System Settings.
Find the setting: AUX Port Function or Gen Port Mode (exact wording may vary by firmware). Set it to: Generator Input or GEN (not “Load” or “Output”).
Also check: Generator Start Mode ensure it's correctly configured (manual, auto, or timed, depending on your setup).
2. Enable Charging from Generator
Go to Settings > Battery Settings > Charge Source Priority.
Ensure the order includes AUX (e.g., “Solar > Grid > AUX” or “Solar > AUX”).

We need to be clear on what we are saying in terms of inverter terminology and especially how it is applied.
Let us break it down:
The NRS097 regulations require that any inverter connected to the grid (even if just feeding your own loads) must have certification, anti-islanding protection, and 1 usually a double disconnect switch (DDS) system built in.
Voltronic inverters (like Axpert, Mecer, Kodak OG series, etc.) are not NRS-approved because they don’t have this certification — but if there is no grid connection at all (i.e., you are truly off-grid), you do not need NRS approval.
In short:
Off Grid.
If you have NO Eskom feed, and you are running purely off batteries + solar, you can use a Voltronic or any other non-certified inverter without breaking any rules.
If there is Eskom (even if you don’t intend to export to it), then by law your inverter must be on the approved list
Hybrid inverter.
A hybrid inverter can manage solar panels, batteries, and the grid at the same time and needs to be on the approved list.
Bi directional inverters.
Will normally be in the approved list as it employes a ct coil and limiter(dds) to controll export to the utility grid.(Sunsynk, Deye,Solis, Goodwe ect.)
Luxpower tick all the boxes and is NRS approved due to the fact it employs a grid limiter and double disconnect switch.

Hi
I have had many electric fence problems since it was installed seven years ago.
For Joe King's problem, I am almost sure that all the earth connections to the earth spikes are not there or have been eroded. This is why I am almost sure that when he connects the mains earth, the fault presents itself. There is definitely a short to earth somewhere in the system. After a system has run for many years, the connecting HV wires crack due to the UV exposure, and sometimes it can be tricky to find.
Low or old batteries can be another problem. Low batteries can give intermittent faults, which can be very annoying.
My experience was that after several years, I found my fence light was very dull. I went to purchase another one and found that it did not work at all. I took it back and asked for it to be checked or replaced, which they could not and would not do. I went home and checked the fence again, only to find all the earths to the earth spikes were eroded away. After repairing them all, the lights were both good. I went back to the shop and apologised for putting up a fuss.
Insects and bird droppings are another annoyance. I clear these with a wet broom after switching off the system.

The question is if you want to be compliant or safe? A neutral-earthing device will only be compliant if it is SANS/IEC 60947-4-1 certified. A second neutral-earthing point is not compliant but it is safe for the earth leakages downstream.

Hi
I do not know if this is the correct place to post this topic.
I purchased a 6Kw generator many years ago before I installed an 8Kw inverter. I bought two 20l metal jerry cans and three 25l treated(red) plastic petrol storage cans.
The metal jerry cans sometimes leak at the seal of the spout. I have since 3D printed thicker seals and have no more problems. The metal cans can also rust as there is a small amount of water in the petrol and can separate when stored.
A bigger problem was with the treated plastic containers. I filled the containers and sealed them for when needed. I had stored them for quite a long time and when it came to using the fuel this is what I found.
The plastic caps on all the containers were broken (cracked) and needed to be replaced. After some thought, I came to this conclusion. The full cans were sealed in the winter when it was cool and when the weather heated up the pressure from the petrol heating up broke the caps. I also lost a lot of fuel through evaporation. I now store the petrol in the treated plastic can and slightly loosen the small breather cap on the opposite side of the spout.
I know that you should not store petrol for more than a year and now fill my vehicle with the stored fuel after 6 months and put fresh fuel in the cans. I also do not fill all the cans.

Hi
Recently after having a power failure with being rainy and overcast the previous day, I woke up to find my house without power despite having an 8Kw Sunsynk inverter with 500ah batteries.  It was 5:30 am so I took my torch and investigated only to find I had completely depleted my batteries.
I had recently coupled my geyser to the grid from gas as I had added more PV panels and had ample power (9000w) to use. I also have to power a borehole pump and aux pump from the JoJo tank.
I have a 6Kw petrol generator coupled to the inverter which can be switched to the grid or aux (gen) input without an auto-start. I proceeded to start the generator and switched the generator to the grid input, only to find that this did not work. I was very annoyed and then switched over to the aux (gen) input to find that this also did not work.
I thought I had it all sorted when I installed my system and bragged about my installation, however to my regret, I got a wake-up call.
After checking the generator voltage indicator, I saw it did not show any voltage. I was convinced that this was a generator fault and did not try to put the generator in the bypass mode. I proceeded to switch all the large loads off (borehole pump, switch the geyser to gas, and only use the gas hob). After taking my grandchildren to school the sun was up and my PV panels did power the house to my relief and not to get an earful from my wife.
After getting help (4 guys) to remove the generator (100kg) from its bricked housing I started my fault-finding. To my surprise, only the mechanical voltmeter was broken.
 What now as it was not the generator?
I took the time to clean the generator and put it back in place with help. I did all the switchovers again only to find it still did not work.
Just to mention that I have spent more than 40 years working with electronics and instrumentation.
One of the most important things I have learned over the years is to go back to read and follow the instructions. 
This is what I did. I also followed up with videos from Sunsynk and this was the result.
1.       The biggest problem was the frequency which was 54.6 hz.  I had to adjust the frequency on the generator under load as close to 50hz as possible. This can be done by adjusting the screw on the linkage arm of the carburetor which will correct the speed and frequency.
2.       The frequency band on the inverter also needed to be adjusted for a larger band to accommodate the frequent load changes of the generator.
3.       There are other settings as well that affect the inverter if the generator is grid-coupled or aux-coupled. It also matters if you use timed settings as this will override the start and stop charging settings of the battery. The grid-tied generator to the inverter is much less forgiving to frequency change.
4.       The charging of the batteries from the generator needs to be set lower on a grid-tied generator.  if you set it too high there will be no power for the household load. The best Installation is to have a generator twice the power of the inverter so that it can charge the batteries without affecting the load. This is always not possible so be sure you have adjusted the settings for the size of the generator.
5.       If you have an electrician do the installation, make sure that he has done all the checks and has tested it before it is signed off. It will always be up to the owner to read the instructions so you can be sure the electrician has done all the tests and correct settings or else when the generator is needed it might fail and you might need to pay again to have it set correctly.
6.       Finally, the earthing of the generator.
A.      If it is coupled in the grid mode, the neutral has to be coupled to the earth as there is no link to neutral for a series earth leakage (RCD) to work if the mains neutral is decoupled.
B.      When the generator is coupled to the aux (gen) input the inverter should already have an earth bond relay installed to protect the system with the earth leakage (RCD) in series when the neutral is decoupled from the mains in the inverter during a power failure. I use an automotive 12vdc relay which can handle 30a.
In a complete circuit, there must only be one earth-neutral bond.
I see many installers fitting a permanent bond between earth and neutral on the inverter. This is illegal as now there are two earth-neural bonds when the mains power is present. (one in the inverter and one in the DB. Box).
I find it pure laziness that an electrician cannot use a relay to couple the neutral to earth even if the inverter does not provide a signal or voltage output as he can use the 220vac mains power input to the inverter as the signal to connect the bond.
NB: THE earth-neural bond must be the bond of the neutral on the output of the inverter to earth and not the neutral input from the Mains Power input.
 
The earth-neutral bond done on the Mains input is only done when the Mains Power is disconnected (live and neutral) and a Generator is used as the Mains Power input.
All is now good and working as it should.
I hope this will help someone who wants to couple a generator to an inverter and avoid the same problems and frustrations I have gone through.

Hi
Recently after having a power failure with being rainy and overcast the previous day, I woke up to find my house without power despite having an 8Kw Sunsynk inverter with 500ah batteries.  It was 5:30 am so I took my torch and investigated only to find I had completely depleted my batteries.
I had recently coupled my geyser to the grid from gas as I had added more PV panels and had ample power (9000w) to use. I also have to power a borehole pump and aux pump from the JoJo tank.
I have a 6Kw petrol generator coupled to the inverter which can be switched to the grid or aux (gen) input without an auto-start. I proceeded to start the generator and switched the generator to the grid input, only to find that this did not work. I was very annoyed and then switched over to the aux (gen) input to find that this also did not work.
I thought I had it all sorted when I installed my system and bragged about my installation, however to my regret, I got a wake-up call.
After checking the generator voltage indicator, I saw it did not show any voltage. I was convinced that this was a generator fault and did not try to put the generator in the bypass mode. I proceeded to switch all the large loads off (borehole pump, switch the geyser to gas, and only use the gas hob). After taking my grandchildren to school the sun was up and my PV panels did power the house to my relief and not to get an earful from my wife.
After getting help (4 guys) to remove the generator (100kg) from its bricked housing I started my fault-finding. To my surprise, only the mechanical voltmeter was broken.
 What now as it was not the generator?
I took the time to clean the generator and put it back in place with help. I did all the switchovers again only to find it still did not work.
Just to mention that I have spent more than 40 years working with electronics and instrumentation.
One of the most important things I have learned over the years is to go back to read and follow the instructions. 
This is what I did. I also followed up with videos from Sunsynk and this was the result.
1.       The biggest problem was the frequency which was 54.6 hz.  I had to adjust the frequency on the generator under load as close to 50hz as possible. This can be done by adjusting the screw on the linkage arm of the carburetor which will correct the speed and frequency.
2.       The frequency band on the inverter also needed to be adjusted for a larger band to accommodate the frequent load changes of the generator.
3.       There are other settings as well that affect the inverter if the generator is grid-coupled or aux-coupled. It also matters if you use timed settings as this will override the start and stop charging settings of the battery. The grid-tied generator to the inverter is much less forgiving to frequency change.
4.       The charging of the batteries from the generator needs to be set lower on a grid-tied generator.  if you set it too high there will be no power for the household load. The best Installation is to have a generator twice the power of the inverter so that it can charge the batteries without affecting the load. This is always not possible so be sure you have adjusted the settings for the size of the generator.
5.       If you have an electrician do the installation, make sure that he has done all the checks and has tested it before it is signed off. It will always be up to the owner to read the instructions so you can be sure the electrician has done all the tests and correct settings or else when the generator is needed it might fail and you might need to pay again to have it set correctly.
6.       Finally, the earthing of the generator.
A.      If it is coupled in the grid mode, the neutral has to be coupled to the earth as there is no link to neutral for a series earth leakage (RCD) to work if the mains neutral is decoupled.
B.      When the generator is coupled to the aux (gen) input the inverter should already have an earth bond relay installed to protect the system with the earth leakage (RCD) in series when the neutral is decoupled from the mains in the inverter during a power failure. I use an automotive 12vdc relay which can handle 30a.
In a complete circuit, there must only be one earth-neutral bond.
I see many installers fitting a permanent bond between earth and neutral on the inverter. This is illegal as now there are two earth-neural bonds when the mains power is present. (one in the inverter and one in the DB. Box).
I find it pure laziness that an electrician cannot use a relay to couple the neutral to earth even if the inverter does not provide a signal or voltage output as he can use the 220vac mains power input to the inverter as the signal to connect the bond.
NB: THE earth-neural bond must be the bond of the neutral on the output of the inverter to earth and not the neutral input from the Mains Power input.
 
The earth-neutral bond done on the Mains input is only done when the Mains Power is disconnected (live and neutral) and a Generator is used as the Mains Power input.
All is now good and working as it should.
I hope this will help someone who wants to couple a generator to an inverter and avoid the same problems and frustrations I have gone through.

Hi
Recently after having a power failure with being rainy and overcast the previous day, I woke up to find my house without power despite having an 8Kw Sunsynk inverter with 500ah batteries.  It was 5:30 am so I took my torch and investigated only to find I had completely depleted my batteries.
I had recently coupled my geyser to the grid from gas as I had added more PV panels and had ample power (9000w) to use. I also have to power a borehole pump and aux pump from the JoJo tank.
I have a 6Kw petrol generator coupled to the inverter which can be switched to the grid or aux (gen) input without an auto-start. I proceeded to start the generator and switched the generator to the grid input, only to find that this did not work. I was very annoyed and then switched over to the aux (gen) input to find that this also did not work.
I thought I had it all sorted when I installed my system and bragged about my installation, however to my regret, I got a wake-up call.
After checking the generator voltage indicator, I saw it did not show any voltage. I was convinced that this was a generator fault and did not try to put the generator in the bypass mode. I proceeded to switch all the large loads off (borehole pump, switch the geyser to gas, and only use the gas hob). After taking my grandchildren to school the sun was up and my PV panels did power the house to my relief and not to get an earful from my wife.
After getting help (4 guys) to remove the generator (100kg) from its bricked housing I started my fault-finding. To my surprise, only the mechanical voltmeter was broken.
 What now as it was not the generator?
I took the time to clean the generator and put it back in place with help. I did all the switchovers again only to find it still did not work.
Just to mention that I have spent more than 40 years working with electronics and instrumentation.
One of the most important things I have learned over the years is to go back to read and follow the instructions. 
This is what I did. I also followed up with videos from Sunsynk and this was the result.
1.       The biggest problem was the frequency which was 54.6 hz.  I had to adjust the frequency on the generator under load as close to 50hz as possible. This can be done by adjusting the screw on the linkage arm of the carburetor which will correct the speed and frequency.
2.       The frequency band on the inverter also needed to be adjusted for a larger band to accommodate the frequent load changes of the generator.
3.       There are other settings as well that affect the inverter if the generator is grid-coupled or aux-coupled. It also matters if you use timed settings as this will override the start and stop charging settings of the battery. The grid-tied generator to the inverter is much less forgiving to frequency change.
4.       The charging of the batteries from the generator needs to be set lower on a grid-tied generator.  if you set it too high there will be no power for the household load. The best Installation is to have a generator twice the power of the inverter so that it can charge the batteries without affecting the load. This is always not possible so be sure you have adjusted the settings for the size of the generator.
5.       If you have an electrician do the installation, make sure that he has done all the checks and has tested it before it is signed off. It will always be up to the owner to read the instructions so you can be sure the electrician has done all the tests and correct settings or else when the generator is needed it might fail and you might need to pay again to have it set correctly.
6.       Finally, the earthing of the generator.
A.      If it is coupled in the grid mode, the neutral has to be coupled to the earth as there is no link to neutral for a series earth leakage (RCD) to work if the mains neutral is decoupled.
B.      When the generator is coupled to the aux (gen) input the inverter should already have an earth bond relay installed to protect the system with the earth leakage (RCD) in series when the neutral is decoupled from the mains in the inverter during a power failure. I use an automotive 12vdc relay which can handle 30a.
In a complete circuit, there must only be one earth-neutral bond.
I see many installers fitting a permanent bond between earth and neutral on the inverter. This is illegal as now there are two earth-neural bonds when the mains power is present. (one in the inverter and one in the DB. Box).
I find it pure laziness that an electrician cannot use a relay to couple the neutral to earth even if the inverter does not provide a signal or voltage output as he can use the 220vac mains power input to the inverter as the signal to connect the bond.
NB: THE earth-neural bond must be the bond of the neutral on the output of the inverter to earth and not the neutral input from the Mains Power input.
 
The earth-neutral bond done on the Mains input is only done when the Mains Power is disconnected (live and neutral) and a Generator is used as the Mains Power input.
All is now good and working as it should.
I hope this will help someone who wants to couple a generator to an inverter and avoid the same problems and frustrations I have gone through.

Hi 
A question
What is the SOURCE OF THE WATER?
To filter the water taste it would help to know the source to see what minerals are in the water.
eg: If it is from a well or borehole it might be disolved iron which needs a different filter.

Further Update
 
After my initial water analysis, the ph was 6.9 in September 2017. I have done futher tests in December 2018. This what I have found.
I initially filtered my primary irrigation  water with 120 micron mesh filter, then a clinobrite media (swimming pool media),  birm media and finally a 120 disc filter. The household side had a further 4 filters, a 10 micron filter, a solid carbon filter, 5 micron filter and a uv light.
This was not good enough as too much dissolved  iron cand solids came through and contaminated the filters quickly ( 1week) and the water tasted awful.
I then deceided in September 2018 to inject ozone 10g/H and air by means of a venturie.
This has been the results after test done in December 2018.
The ph has dropped to 6.2 before filtering and dropped futher to 5.8 after filtering at 24 degrees celcius.
This has firstly due to less clay colloids which were far more concentrated in the newly drilled borehole.
Secondly after filtering the injected air and ozone reduced the ph due to the absorbtion of carbon dioxide in the water.
This effect has led to other problems.
Firstly birm media needs ph of at least 6.9 to work effectively and secondly the low ph is not good for my plumbing.
I now see when I backwash my birm media that it is clear and this shows that it no longer has any filtering effects.
The  primary clinobrite filter media now works well and drops the iron content from about 5mg/l (TDS 20) to about 0.7mg/l (TDS11) at 24 degrees celcius.
 
I now had to think of something to increase the ph of the water to about 7.5.
There any various methods of increasing the ph and I chosen to use a calcite which is calcium carbonate in pebble form which is slower release. 
This will only be done on the household water side as it is not necessary for irrigation and It is a consumable and will need to be replenished sooner.
I will also remove the birm and fill the vessel with clinobrite.
I have put in 2 more vessels with clinobrite media and  1 for calcite media. Iam hoping the iron (fe) content will drop below 0.3mg/l.
I need to put in a second venturie on the household water side as the flow is less in this line to fill the storage tank and the the primary venturie does not work when it fills the jojo tank and only works for irrigation.
The primary venurie is  20mm. The second one will be a 15mm venturie also joined for ozone injection when the borehole is on.
I will also put in futher big blue filters (3) with carbon and  5 micron filters to improve the taste of the water from thee jojo tank.
I have installed automatic backwash to all ftp vessels (5).
This is a lot of filtering however I need  to be  sure my water is fit for consumption and I do not want to use chlorine injection route in any form.
There can also be anothe complication that the calcite can harden the water however this is not a problem for me as my TDS is 11 before calsite is added.
 
Clinobrite is an inexppensive media  (<R300 a bag) used in swimming pools and koi ponds. It is made from zeolite and can filter out iron (fe) if it is an oxidized form.
I am almost sure other media like clino-x, turbidex and other trade names or simalar media are also made from zeolite at 3x the price.
If anyone kknows if there is any difference please post it.
 
Other media like DMI-65 needs  chlorine predose then the chlorine needs to removed after iron removal.
Maddox or greensand need potassium permanganate (condy's crystals) to regenerate or chlorine predose.
I hope to complete this project early in 2019 and will post pictures and results from changes.
 
Please feel free to comment on any other methods to improve my water quality.
It has been a long and winding road to get to this point.
Peter Topp
 
 
 

Hi Peetvstaden
You can only run the Max 3KVA as this is the specification for that unit. The bypass relay is only safe for that load. It is designed so that should the power fail at any time it will handle the load at that present time. It would not be wise to run the inverter continually at full load. The way to get past this limitation is to install an appropriate bypass switch to isolate the inverter output when there is power, allowing you to manually switch over to the inverter output once you have lowered the load to accommodate the inverter. This would be done the same way you would use a switch for a generator.

Hi
Today I installed an alternative to the mechanical pressure switch which is used on most pumps with a pressure tank. These switches need to be able to set for a low-pressure pump switch on and a high-pressure pump switch off. I have replaced the mechanical pressure switch twice.
The switch I found to replace this is a digital switch with a digital led readout. It is larger however was easy to fit and programming was relatively easy. 
The best feature for me was that it has a pump dry cutout that can be set.
The switch is a Coelbo Switchmatic 2 which I purchased on special from DIY Direct SA.
The pressure switch does not come with the full instructions only a quick setup. I have posted the full instructions here.
switchmatic12_en.pdf SWITCHMATIC.pdf

Hi 
After reading up on the Heterotrophic plate count there are indications that the count should be less than 500 however, a larger count does not mean that the water is a problem as the bacteria could be harmless. 
If you want to eliminate and lower this you can implement the following. A UV light source would be the best bet as it damages the DNA in the microbes. Adding an activated carbon filter also helps. Using continuous chlorination, however, the chlorine will have to be reduced by carbon filters before it is drinkable and helps with the taste. Excess chlorine is not good for you. Doing reverse osmosis will also help to remove bacteria.
You could also boil the water for consumption before anything else is implimented in you are worried which also works.

Hi Raiden 2912
After going through your report your water looks perfect for consumption.
The only figure that is not in specification is the turbidity (cloudiness). This can be due to being a new borehole with still some solids and is common with newly drilled boreholes.
This can be overcome just by putting in some filters to trap the solids. The turbidity should improve as the borehole is used over time.
As far as the ph. goes you cannot get better as it is totally neutral ph7 which is not acid and not alkaline and will not damage anything. 
I don't know if a report analysis was attached. This is all I can see from the report.
I am not an expert at this and I might have missed something.
I suggest you should have the borehole checked again after a year or two as in my case the ph. had changed after a year.
I think the HCO3 (bicarbonate) value would be the amount of carbon dioxide dissolved in the water which makes it more acidic and would be more prevalent in rainwater as it absorbs CO2 on the way down. I do not think it has any bearing on the report as the ph. is 7 (I could be wrong).

Done.

Done.

Hi
The Tescom SSPro 5kva inverters do not have a pv input. Attached are the user specifications.
 
92114_PDF1.pdf

Hi
A bladder tank not only does the things you mention above not only for the shock but also allows you to use about 50% of the capacity of the tank before the pump starts. I am not convinced the pipe will not be able to stop the frequent on/off cycles as it does not have the external pressure on the pipe to make much difference that a pressure tank has on the bladder. I see what you are saying there will be a little pressure from the pressure exerted on the pipe for it to expand from the water pressure as water cannot be compressed, then released when a tap is opened (only if you use a pipe that will expand and contracts and returns to form). However, it still does not compare to a pressure tank to stop frequent stop-and-start cycles.     
The mathematics says that to get a 10L difference which will need to expand 10mm over 3 meters to make a difference.   I do not think a 115mm pipe would expand by a 10mm diameter and contract.  5mm for 5L etc.                                                                                                                  

Hi
A bladder tank not only does the things you mention above not only for the shock but also allows you to use about 50% of the capacity of the tank before the pump starts. I am not convinced the pipe will not be able to stop the frequent on/off cycles as it does not have the external pressure on the pipe to make much difference that a pressure tank has on the bladder. I see what you are saying there will be a little pressure from the pressure exerted on the pipe for it to expand from the water pressure as water cannot be compressed, then released when a tap is opened (only if you use a pipe that will expand and contracts and returns to form). However, it still does not compare to a pressure tank to stop frequent stop-and-start cycles.     
The mathematics says that to get a 10L difference which will need to expand 10mm over 3 meters to make a difference.   I do not think a 115mm pipe would expand by a 10mm diameter and contract.  5mm for 5L etc.                                                                                                                  

Hi Raidon2912
The question you asked about low municipal water use.
Water usage is split into two. Water use and sewer. So, you pay twice for the water used. If you use no municipal water, you will definitely have questions asked and, or a visit. Even if you use no water from the municipality you need to pay the sewer fee.
To overcome this, I have a parallel system and I throttle my municipal use to show some water usage.  Most of my water is used for irrigation of my garden and I can use up to 60Kl a month. Irrigation water is only partially filtered and the household water from the JoJo tank is fully filtered and tested for consumption. I irrigate directly from the borehole pump which you can view from my other posts under sustainable landscaping.
VSD pressure pumps are much better as using a pressure vessel with a standard pump needs to be checked and is like checking your car tires and is a hassle as the pressure tank needs to be empty with no water pressure when tested or pressurized. Setting the pressure switch can also be a hassle. VSD pressure pumps use less power, and the pressure can be set much easier with pump dry protection. This being said if you have the budget, and you already have a pump.

Hi Raiden2912
Just a suggestion. Before you decide to pump for a long time, make sure the borehole is filling enough to fill the borehole. You will need to know how much water your borehole actually produces. You can ask and pay to have this done or you could test this yourself by measuring the amount of water used over a specific period with an inline meter, eg, over an hour. You can also monitor the output over a long period that you want and see if the output drops. When the borehole is full (at the top of the water table) it will take time to empty the borehole to see the actual flow of water into the borehole. This is directly from the borehole pump not from the jojo. If the flow does not drop it would be great as this means that the borehole is filling faster than it can be pumped out. If the flow drops it can be measured again over a shorter period to determine the actual flow from the filling borehole. 
This is important as you can burn out your borehole pump if the borehole is pumped dry if there is no protection for this.
Also adding another comment on VSD or DC pumps. If you do not use these pumps on the output of your JoJo tank, it would be advisable to put a bladder tank in line with the pump as cheaper standard pumps do not like to be started many times over a short period (shortens the lifetime of the pump). The bladder tank stops this by setting a lower switch on pressure for starting and a higher switch off at a set pressure. Depending on the size of the tank about 50% of the size of the bladder tank must be used before the pump switches on. This prevents switching on using small amounts of water usage. 
I have done these tests on my borehole and I can only pump for 1hr15min before my borehole is empty and my flow drops.
I hope this helps.