HendrikBigChief

I just wonder if the isoboard will degrade over time which might cause issues. I don't think those boards are designed to be buried in between fiberglass and soil.

It is no longer fashionable, but large roof overhangs are very good at keeping a house cool. Not only do they keep the sun from shining on your walls and windows, but underneath the overhangs you can put louvres. If there is any breeze, air will get pulled in the one side and sucked out on the other side of your roof. I previously lived in a house that had little triangle louvres at the top of the roof as well as on the overhangs. It worked amazingly well. That house also had ceiling insulation which made a massive difference. On a hot day the ceiling is usually very hot to the touch, but much less so with ceiling insulation. I would recommend you look into "passive house" on google. There are lots of resources available on how to better insulate your house and how to optimize energy efficiency.

I doubt it will make much of a difference. The vast majority of heat loss in a swimming pool is through evaporation at the surface. I good pool blanket that stops evaporation will be your best bet. However I have never tried pool wall insulation, but I have experimented with pool blankets which make a massive difference (5 degrees C hotter or more)

Should be fine, if the battery is the same.

You might also want to check for signs of the cells swelling. What did you configure your max charge rate to be?

This is quite normal. I used to see this with my espresso machine which has a beefy pump for pressuring the water to 15 bar. Things that improved the flickering: - Adding more batteries in parallel. - Going from a 12V to 48V system. - Installing better quality LEDs in the house. - Installing a stronger inverter. I went from a 1000W to 5000W inverter. - Install a pump starter. From my understanding it is basically just a big capacitor over the terminals that can deliver a large current burst when the pump starts.

Get one of these: https://thepoolteam.co.za/pump-box-rock-lrb

There are two ways. 1. Disable time of use. Then the inverter will operate as a UPS and only use battery when grid is down. 2. Enable time of use and set minimum battery to 100%.

Those lines are probably for REDZ7 and REDZ8, they will be used in future: Actual power lines: The pink ones are 400kV and the light blue ones are 765kV so there is plenty of infrastructure to get power from the REDZ to where it will be used. Special note for the electricity nerds, the purple lines are DC lines running up to the Cahora Bassa Hydroelectric dam.

There are certain designated areas for renewable energy development zones (REDZ) in South Africa, they build everything there. https://www.csir.co.za/renewable-energy-development-zones

My battery is big enough to get the job done, however not sure about the battery in this article.

Lower is usually better to increase the longevity of your batteries. 0.2C for Lithium is usually the best, but 0.3C is also not bad. A lower charge voltage also improves lifespan. This depends somewhat on what battery chemistry you have.

Last time I checked SA is on 230V

How long are your cables. Did you take the voltage over the panels when they were not connected to the MPPT? How did you measure the voltage? Careful with DC. It is strong like bull.

I have this one, very quiet, can switch off the light and it has a special power limiting mode for when you are running off battery. Is has no wifi however, but cannot be expected at the price: https://acdirect.co.za/product/lg-dual-inverter-wall-split-9000-btu-hr-inverter-air-conditioner/