Antony

Found same type on Junkmail for R899, just a 140Amp instead of 180Amp, but then I'm welding at a much lower amperage anyway.

Do you think its just this component though, what would have caused it?

Good day all, I've had a really crappy day so far. I went to buy some steel to make a security gate (instructions from SWAMBO). While inside someone broke into my Toyota Hilux and tried to steal it, broke the ignition, but thankfully I have an immobiliser. R1500 later, (call out to remove ignition and steering lock, then replace ignition) I'm back at the steel place to load my steel, get back home and start my project. Then one welding lead breaks clear off right inside the handle, no biggy, I get that fixed and continue to weld. 15 minutes later BOOM, the welder blows and also trips the mains. I open up the inverter and find this. Any suggestions, SWAMBO wants to know when I'm going to finish the gate

Blue apples with Yellow Apples

Please explain more, what heater manifold did you use?

Then what amps should I look at. My theory was Vmp x Imp to get Watts. In this case 37.65 x 8.77 = 330.2 which is what the panel is rated at. If I take Voc x Imp I get way more than the rating of the panel or is this not how I should look at it. I was trying to compare different panels to get the best match and also to get as close as possible to the MAX input of the inverter

What is best to look at, VOC or Vmp?

10 panels per string ain't bad, that would give me best possible performance with the each string facing 1 NE, and the other NW. OK, I just saw your update, it makes sense.

Hi Jaco, the VOC is 46.7 if I'm reading this correctly and based even on that, it is still 10 panels per string, because of each MPPT voltage range?

Please forgive me if this has been answered somewhere. I have a Solis 3.6kW It has a MAX input current of 11A +11A and 2 MPPT / 2 strings inputs (see screen grab below) I have 12 x 320W / 8.77 Amp panels = 3962W total All 12 panels in series in 1 string is 8.77 Amps which is well within the 11A Max However if I want to have 6 panels in series with 2 parallel, I'm going to exceed the MAX input current by 6.54 Amps, so that is not going to work. Does this mean I should rather have each string of 6 panels in series connected to 1 input string each on the inverter?, i.e. string 1 to input 1 and string 2 to input 2? Is there another way? I'm asking because I want to be able to have another string facing in another direction due to a nasty shadow on my roof and to maximise the amount of daytime sunlight, i.e. a "morning" string and a "afternoon" string (both having a midday catch)

I guess then there is no standard DB board/cabinet with glands and with all the necessary breakers, etc. already installed... just bring in your cables from the PV, Inverter, Grid, Load and Boom, well not boom, but you get what I'm, saying.

You guys are just awesome.

So what does a typical solar installation looking like if we have the following: Grid Solar panels Inverter Load (DB) Where should there be isolators, fuses, etc?

If an inverter is "compliant" with types Lead-acid or Li-Ion is it OK for Gel?

Good evening all, In my never ending attempt to reduce my load even further, I now switch off plug ccts in the DB, which is not exactly easily accessible to everybody. I want to be able to install a "switch" in my TV lounge, which will switch off all the plug ccts, for the TV, soundbar, Apple TV, Plex Media server, etc. Stuff that is only used some nights, and mostly only weekends. Currently to get to the actual plugs is impossible as it is behind either the wall mounted TV, or behind the cabinet. I was thinking of having a switch next to the light switch so when the family go in there, they must switch on the plugs and off again when they leave the room. Anyone done something like this? Can I use the same pipe as the lights to run the live and "chase" a 2x2 wall socket right next to the light switch? There would be very little touch-up required. The wall was plastered with rhinolite wall plaster . I could save 100+ watts a day.

As "luck" would have it, my dishwasher just packed up and the repair costs are just ridiculous. So I went and bought a A+++ one...

This is an interesting point... it would be nice to be able to determine (not by calculations, i.e. how much roof space, etc) just how much you will be generating before you buy a specific inverter. We can already calculate what our usage is energy meters, etc. So my question is, if I should buy 2 panels without any inverter (why does inverter always come up as a spelling mistake? ) how would I be able to measure the actual power generated?

Just spent the last 4 hours at SARS... then to be told I'm still short documentation...

I asked my 5th med student daughter to help me bleed the brakes... you should have seen the looks

Not possible on the Home Hub Kit, in fact the only buttons are on the CT unit and it is to setup the Wi-Fi.

Just one thing though, you cannot reset the data, i.e. when you move the hub from one site to another, it just continues adding to the data set, so you need to keep track. when there is a break in the data stream there will be a break in the graph. You can also download the data (per minute or hour) and import into excel. Also it must have an internet connection as the data must be uploaded.

Works great, bought it from Ellies in Pretoria. https://www.ellies.co.za/product/efergy-home-hub-kit/ I paid R770. I also order 2 additional CT with WiFi from Efergy in Spain so I can measure multiple circuits. I think this cost me R1300 plus postage. The worst thing is I bought it a month ago and it has still not "arrived" SAPOS

https://engage.efergy.com/dashboard Efergy Engage Hub Kit. CT around the mains feed. data is transmitted every 6 seconds via WiFi to a hub connected to my router and exported to internet

I hope they didn't install Axperts...