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Thank you for the great forum, Safe Driving over the weekend. Sincerely Jason

Youda

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Youda last won the day on March 12

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  1. It's a standard RS232, therefore the voltage can be anywhere between -25V to +25V Long story short -USB to TTL cable converter is NOT suitable. You need a proper USB to RS232 converter.
  2. Yes @Andries, that picture is correct. I've just checked the cable with the multimeter. Keep in mind that COLORS are not important, as they can differ based on the vendor of the cable. Just follow the wiring: The RJ-11 have to be the one with just 4 golden contacts, not 6. PIN1 is not used PIN2 leads to DB9 PIN3 PIN3 leads to DB9 PIN2 PIN4 leads to DB9 PIN5 DB9 connectors have small numbers imprinted directly on them. You can't mess-up this part. And here's the more obvious picture for you:
  3. Check my LAB, there's a bigger version of the above RJ-11 pinout: https://powerforum.co.za/topic/2322-youdas-off-grid-lab/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-53641 You need just 3 wires: TX, RX, GND.
  4. Update: Hi guys, so I decided to redo the Pylontech stacking test once again. Powered everything OFF, including all the US3000 bricks with their mechanical ON/OFF switches. Wired 9 units of US3000 together, using their RJ-45 link ports. All the DC ports were connected to a common busbars. Started master brick via SW button -> First 8 bricks went online one by one, as ususal, but the brick #9 stayed OFF. Manually started brick #9 using its SW button -> It went online without any error. Attached BatteryView to the master brick and instructed it to search for 9 bricks running in paralel -> BatteryView connected okay to the first 8 bricks, but indicated brick #9 as offline, despite the brick #9 was already running in reality. Screenshot: Result: The maximum of US3000 bricks that can run in a single stack, without having a top-of-rack LV-HUB, is 8 units. Tested and verified. A statement that US3000 is able to combine 12 units in a single stack is either a bullshit, or it is related to some newer HW/FW revision that I never heard of. Could someone redo this test with the newest US3000 samples, please?
  5. Couple of months ago I was asking myself the same question, as I noticed this discrepancy between the Pylontech website, english specsheet on the same website and the localized specsheets that were published on some of the online stores (attached). Also noticed, that the BatteryView is ready for up to 16 units running in parallel: So I wired 9 units together and powered then ON, in order to check the truth. In my case, first 8 units started, while the ninth unit kept being OFF. Based on the above quick test, I would say that my US3000 are limited to 8 units per stack. It would be nice if somebody else could redo this test with the newer US3000 samples, in order to check whether there were FW/HW improvements implemented in the meantime by the manufacturer. US3000b-cz-datasheet.pdf
  6. The driver package reveals that this TU-S9 USB converter is using Prolific PL2303 chip: So, if that works for you, I would recommend @Andries to pick a converter with a same chip for the start Thanks @hancock !
  7. @Andries the cable from your picture will not work with Pylontech batteries for sure. It's USB-to-Serial TTL converter, which operates at +5V level. You need a real USB-to-Serial RS232 converter, operating at full RS232 levels as the RJ-11 port on the Pylontech is technically RS232, not TTL. @hancock What type of USB-to-serial converter you've used with the ICC and Pylontechs, please? FTDI ft232r Silicon Labs cp2102 Prolific PL2303 Any other type? Pylontechs don't care about the type, but I'm not sure whether ICC on Raspberry is able to work will all the types above, or you have to pick a specific one in order for ICC to discover it. Thanks for the info! Youda
  8. That cable with a 15-pin male on the one side and female on the other? It's a standard VGA extension cable. All the pins are mapped 1:1.
  9. @Eujean Hugo normally, your reseller/distributor should be able to assist with diagnostics, or getting the BatteryView software to you. Since distributors generally don't care, just check my LAB for the donwload. The link is in the description bellow. PS: Download, the guide on creating a serial cable, and how to use the software is in the middle of the page2
  10. Hi @0 |>\/\/3|<|<3Я E69 means that the Pylontech raised "stop charging" flag and therefore Axpert stopped the charger. The flag is being raised basically on the overvoltage of pack or a cell in the pack. Reason behind this might be that the two older bricks reach their top voltage too early. Shame that the implementation of BMS protocol in the Axpert is just basic, without the possibility to manualy adjust (lower) the C.C. voltage. Victron users were observing a very same error in the past, but since Victron gear is much more configurable, they were able to solve it easily. With the ICC, you will disconnect the Pylon BMS from the Axpert and plug it to the ICC. Then, you will be able to set battery type to "USE" and lower the C.C. to 52.5V which will work much better. ICC will take care of reporting correct SOC and controlling the inverter. I would wait for couple of days, whether the bricks will become balanced, which would remove the error. If not, I would go for ICC (not to mention that ICC has a LOT of other benefits too).
  11. Yes, it's RS485 bus, so GND wire is not necessary. And if you wire it like this, then the cable will work no matter which side you plug in the Pylontech and which into the Axpert Inverter: https://powerforum.co.za/topic/2322-youdas-off-grid-lab/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-55761 Pin definition of the RS485 port on the Pylontech US2000 side: Note that the pins 1-2 have the same function as pins 8-7.
  12. Hi @1Hallux I had the similar ON/OFF solution some time ago, when I started flirting with the solar power. It worked exactly as you described, but I was a bit scared by all the cycles that it introduced in my lithium battery. Therefore, I switched to the SSR and continuous regulation, so I can have a good sleep at night
  13. Oh my! If it survived a diode without a single beep, then the SSR will be a piece of cake BTW: For example Axpert offgrid inverters don't like when you consume just half of each sinewave. If you do, then they shutdown with an error message saying: "DC voltage detected on the AC output" or something like that... Well, if you can run your whole house on the backup side of GoodWe, then adding such an automation based on the SOC would be pretty easy task. Trouble is, if you need more than 4.6kW, as GoodWe inverters can't be connected in parallel on the backup side. And if you auto-connect the grid to assist the inverter, then there could be a short export spike once the huge load will be disconnected (for example an oven with a thermostat). If you don't care about such short export spikes, then it's okay. But if you'd like to eliminate them, it would need a bit more sophisticated solution, I suppose.
  14. Well, if you are experienced with designing power electronics and it's a hobby of yours, then it's okay And now I see that I made a mistake in my previous post. Correction: "I went for a cheaper RM1E23V25 (230V x 25A) since RM1E48V50 (480V x 50A) was not on stock." Yes I can. While my inverters are hybrid models, I run them in pure off-grid mode. Even the grid MCB, that's before my inverter farm, is disconnected all the time.
  15. Hi @Power Me the original heating element was designed for the 3-phase grid (3x 1333W) and I rewired it to 1x 1333W fed from ESKOM + 1x 2666W fed from the inverter. So it's not a full 3kW but only 2.6kW. I tested that the 2666W heating + phase angle SSR runs okay, even when just one of my inverters (InfiniSolar 5KW) is running, while the other two inverters are switched off completely. Ironically, the loudest electric buzz is being produced when the SSR is giving roughly 0-500W of power. Once the SSR is delivering more power, up to the max, it runs very smoothly. From my experience, I would say that if your inverter is able to cope with 3kW load directly, it will be okay with the phase angle power control too. You might experience some buzz and flicker, but only in the initial phase of control curve, just like I am. Personally, I went for 230V 25A Carlo Gavazzi RM1E48V50 with 0-10V control. Normally, I would choose a bit more expensive RM1E48V50 that's rated for 480V and 50A, but it was not on stock at that time. https://www.gavazzionline.com/pdf/RM1EAAdatasheet.pdf The SSR gets pretty hot during the operation, so don't forget to add a decent heatsink. I went for RHS100 heatsink, which comes together with a DIN rail clip. The only drawback is, that the bundle is too high to fit in a shallow distribution board. http://www.productselection.net/PDF/UK/ssr_accessories.pdf Mine last advice is: don't try to regulate SSR too quickly. Give MPPT at least a second to adjust it's power once you regulate the AC load up or down. Otherwise, your regulation will be faster the MPPT and the monitoring light on the geyser will flicker like a disco-ball Good luck and please post your results on the forum! Youda
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