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JTK

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Everything posted by JTK

  1. Hi all, selling some items on my side. Located in Eldoraigne, Centurion. Item: 150/100 Victron MPPT Age: Same age as Panels Price: R6k Condition: Used - good Location: Centurion / Eldoraigne Reason: Rearranged panel layout for high voltage Item: CCGX with wall mount box Age: Not sure Price: R4k Condition: Used - good Location: Centurion / Eldoraigne Reason: Not in use anymore. using Venus GX
  2. thanks guys. yes it will work but its not ideal. Even victron's spreadsheet recons I cant go more than 10 panels with the 150/100. Anyways. there is still some time
  3. so this still leaves the question. 6 strings of 2x550 panels worth it on a 150/100. getting a 250/100 will add R10k to the bill... ps: no space for more than 12 panels on the roof. which there was else keeping would be a no brainer
  4. So I have a strange question.. Currently I have 12 330watt Canadians on my roof. These are running through a Victron 150/100 mppt in 4 strings of 3. Canadians have a VOC of around 40v if I recall correctly. So in theory its around 120V voc. I am starting to desire more power during the day as my consumption is going up with AC's etc in the house. Anyways. I want to replace my panels with 550watt panels. Can get Longis for a good price. The Longis however have a 49v VOC making 3 in series x 4 a no go as it is maxing out the MPPT on VOC and will definately cross the threshold on a cold morning. There are thus then two options.. I buy 12 panels and have 6 strings of two panels. I dont like this as at best I will have around 80v operational which is rather low... Or I buy 9 longis and run 4 strings. Each string two longi's and one Canadian which will make VOC around 140v. I have been advised perhaps not a good idea... What do you guys think? The only alternative is buying a 250/100 and just run 3 strings of 4. But did not really want to spend that on top.
  5. Reviving.. I am starting to think the invertor is giving charge at to high a voltage and the Pylons go into "protection mode". Perhaps the invertor loses comms for a moment and provides charge based on what it believes the batteries want which is too high caugint eh batteries to block charge?
  6. proved again. reconnected at 15:30 and battery charged full without issues. Voltage below those max readings of 270v...
  7. Thanks. Help me understand please how I would isolate them? I would have thought they were?
  8. I agree. hence I think it is a pull down resistor that has gone open circuit. It probably is floating voltage because nothing is attached and nothing more or less. My issue is really that things go pear shaped when we seem to reach a certain level of PV output/voltag which is way below what the invertor should be able to handle
  9. @Buyeye: So yes. the 550V seems to be some sort of open circuit volt. If the invertor is on and you push the fuse in it sits at 260 odd. The panels cant deliver 3.5kw. Not even with a victron MPPT let alone a growatt built in. 6 500watt panels... Normally sits around 1.7kw. So did it again this morning. sun comes up starts charging. makes it to around 86% by around 10:30 and then batteries stop charging invertor crashes. it will work again from around 3pm I am pretty sure...
  10. OK. plot thickens... it is happy to work and charge unless it is middle of the day. So here goes. I did some trouble shooting... It is as if the invertor "crashes" when the above presents itself. As in I can pull the PV fuse but it will keep on saying it is charging from PV. Clearly nothing is happening... 1. The is a ES so theoretically is should handle 450V input. 2. When PV voltage goes to around 265/270 v the battery stops taking charge and the symptoms as in first post presents itself. 3. I ran the invertor in standby mode with eskom attached and PV fuse in. The voltage on the PV side went to 550v. Assume this is open circuit and massively (impossibly) high for 6 panels. Inverter needless to say error'd with 08. (Buss voltage too high) 4. I pull the PV fuse so the PV voltage is not tied down. It starts charging on eskom and then PV voltage floats around and as soon as it goes to say around 265/270v then battery just stops charging. 5. As soon as PV voltage is below 250v is starts being happy and operates as intended. So my questions... Seems PV input is causing the issue. Maybe it it should be bound somewhere. Perhaps with a pull down resistor on the motherboard? Maybe this resistor is open circuit? It never has given this issue. But is seems to float around when PV is disconnected and inverter runs on battery and AC. Also why all of sudden does it not like voltage say over 270v? I cant imagine it wasnt that high on my dad's. The units are in same complex right next to each other with same angle to the sun. Only immediate solution rather than stripping I can think of is to split panels in 2x3?
  11. Hi guys, sitting stumped this side. I have a Growatt 5000ES HMV hooked up to two Pylon US3000c's and 6 panels. Invertor sees Pylons and reads charge % and BMS have been working without fail, it appears. This setup was running perfectly fine the past two years in my dad's house. I moved it to my brother in law. Same kit and the strange behavior starts. The invertor will charge the batteries for a bit and then the batteries will stop taking charge. The invertor however is still spinning fans and says its dumping x watts into the batteries. reads the amps and everything. The software on my phone is even stranger. On the invertor the PV may say 1750w. The software will say say 2100w PV and the charge into the battery will say perhaps 3500w. Utility input breaker off so there is no AC supplied at this stage. Needless to say the batteries dont charge further. They sit at a %. the invertor keeps delivering charge as if the battery BMS is saying it needs charge. Battery indicator lights are not flashing though. And everything stays cool. Invertor end batteries. So I assume there is no amps flowing even though the invertor says there is... No errors on the invertor. It believes all is well... anyone have any ideas?
  12. Was aware of this for LiPo. did not know it was for LiFe also? as in a Mobile you receive is half battery.. that is not a mistake. it actually gets charged to 50% before shipping..
  13. May I ask why would you disconnect on float charge? 13.7v float on charger and bluenova says it wants 13.7v on float? seems match made in heaven. My limited knowledge cant find any issue other than desulf which I checked now. It pretty much skips. Does not spend any notable milliseconds on the desulf
  14. I hooked it up... voltage on battery was 13.2v. Have voltmeter attached and voltage is steadily climbing... 13.5 now... Seems to be happy... edit.. sorry not 108ah 104 wh.. dunno how I typed so stupidly
  15. So everywhere you read it says NO! but when I look at the charging cycle of the MXS5.0 then is seems (when using normal cycle) to be a perfect fit for the Blue Nova 12v. Blue Nova 108 ah 12v... edit.. sorry 104 wh.. so small alarm system type battery 'operating V: 11.6-14.4 BulkCharge: 14.4v FloatCharge 13.7 Ctek on picture: Now that seems to be a perfect fit other than the desulf which it goes past in less than a second... What am I missing? As long as you stay away from the recon program should be fine?
  16. also same issue with my dad's setup. I moved the light circuit away from the earth leakage and the problem went away.. PS: my earth's were bound already. so was not earth related.
  17. Generator is less important... Yes 10kva would be nice but remember the gennie is really only for emergencies when the sun does not shine and batteries are depleted. Power is less of an issue so even a 5kva would be more than fine imho.. Water warming etc will be more of a driving factor. Thus a solar geyser or gas setup is probably more important to get right
  18. just remember an earth leakage is not checking leak to earth. it is checking discrepancy between live an neutral... So yes a two prong plug is still protected by your earth leakage breaker
  19. same here.. Microwave is easily readable from most places due to open plan. added bonus is it goes peep when power is back.. None the less. The OP should just use a NO relay for this. easy as pie... And not dependent on www access etc.. He can even run those loads he does not want on during load shedding using the same relay setup
  20. to classify the statement. in series means you are splitting 240v between two loads... they wont work. it means live goes into first AC and neutral of that AC goes into live of next AC and Neutral of second AC comes back to board. Parallel would mean that live and neutral from socket run to first ac and then both run from from first ac run to second ac... but yes. if they were in series it would probably be the issue
  21. you may find it is the light circuit. Do you have that going through the EL? Light circuits apparently do not reside behind EL anymore as modern lights cause issues with the EL. Probably the most unsafe thing I can think of but I confirmed it with my electrician. Wired correctly. So perhaps check if the lights are wired through the EL on the inverter side. This caused issues at my dad's installation.
  22. I have a fairly good idea of my load profile. Perhaps it did not come across that way. I use around 14KWh excluding Geyser per day. There are 5 people in the house. 4 of whom does a morning and evening bath/shower... To cater for the evening bath another evac tube attached to another 150l geyser is likely to help.. But the morning bath is the problem, hence the gas proposal... As to the balance of the load. Happy that I can cater for it by perhaps just adding one battery to my bank... Would love to be able to sell back because then I can perhaps find a way to cater for Eskom warming the morning bath geyser by adding another bank of panels exclusively to push back into the grid to use the credit tomorrow morning. Geyser is on a timer using the Geyserwise and is turned on selectively only for 90mins before the first bath to get the temperature up to standard...
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