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Bobster

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Bobster last won the day on March 20

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  1. Thanks for that clarification. Do we actually have grid-tie only inverters in SA?
  2. To be pedantic, these are types of system and not types of inverter. My inverter (a Goodwe) can run in any of the three types of systems described above, and I think most modern inverters can be used in any of those scenarios. Which means that you could start off grid-tied and then add components to get to a hybrid system.
  3. Loadshedding. Who would want to deplete their batteries when Eskom may start shedding at short notice? OK... some may have a way of calculating and evaluating that risk, but I like to have full batteries at about 16:30 (they usually are full much later) and then live a low consumption life until the sun comes up the next morning. That way I am insulated against load shedding. In Australia they seek to pay as little as possible for grid usage. Here we seek to mitigate against a loss of grid power for several hours.
  4. There are two circumstances. 1) You have grid and, if the sun is up, solar 2) You have no grid. The system may handle the two separately. With mine excess solar can be sent to the non backed up circuits (basically out buildings and pool) as long as there is grid. If the grid goes down then my system will only back up a load of 20 amps and so the pool pump is not backed up even though the sun is shining brightly. Anything that makes hot uses a good whack of power. Geysers, toasters, kettles, tumble driers, hair dryers...
  5. OK, but still get a COC and ask your insurer if they want a copy. At least have one for yourself because if the worse comes to the worse and a loss adjuster arrives and finds wiring not mentioned on the COC then you may find your cover is voided. Maybe not that likely, but any claim involving electricity may fail if it is found that the wiring has been altered.
  6. Find out what current the system can deliver when you have no grid. Pool pump, heat pump, geyser and appliances may be more than it can handle. You may have to give one or more up during an outage, or figure out ways to stack them so that only one or two will run at a time. You may want to think about insurance too. Find out from your insurer if the panels are covered, if the inverter is covered, or must they be specified? Get an updated COC and give your insurer a copy.
  7. hi all, I can run my Goodwe in "economical" mode. The usual use I have for this is to charge my batteries from grid when I feel that's necessary. Recently in a spell of overcast weather I set it to charge from grid from 16:00 to 18:00 (the 2 hours was usually enough to top up the batteries). When I operate as described above, I usually set "battery mode" to "Charge". But ther is a "Discharge" option. Can the latter be used to tell the system to ignore the grid and only draw from batteries?
  8. The filter is accessible without opening the unit up. It can be removed with a wrench, but I'd bet that it has to be put back in very tightly. It also seems to me that by removing that filter some air must get into the pipe on the input side of the pump, and my plumbing chops certainly don't go as far as being able to bleed that air out again. So I am not going to go to Builder's, buy a torque wrench and do it myself in a year's time. I'd have a fool for a customer.
  9. The guy who serviced it did clean various parts and had some device that showed how much gas was in the system and used that to refresh to the level shown on the stickers on the side of the pump. He said it was low on gas, but not empty. He found one filter that was blocked with scale. It didn't cost the earth, and it has run a lot quicker since. Maybe it was the cleaning that made the real difference.
  10. Please see my earlier comments about the disconnect between my actual knowledge of plumbing and the urge to do it myself. If you do know what you're doing then you can probably get the pump installed for less than I paid. NB! It will eventually need a regas. I noticed that my pump was running longer and longer in the mornings. I got a guy in to check the gas. He topped it up and now it heats nice and quickly again.
  11. I have 12 x 325 w panels. In my case 6 face north(ish) and 6 face east(ish). My peak power comes at about 11:30 and there can be 3.2 kw coming off the roof (that's the highest number I've actually notedI might get a bigger number if I watch the power curves all day, every day) But this depends on the weather and, as others have noted, on the demand. If my batteries are fully charged and the house is just ticking over then there is no point in pulling 3KW off the roof (unless I feed back into the grid, and this doesn't make financial sense for me), and the system derates the panels and draws
  12. I did do some googling. On the face of it if you can do the install yourself you'll almost halve the price you pay. But the install (or a decent install) includes isolation valves, insulation, an isolation switch and associated wiring, and the routing of piping - IE not just the heat pump. As regards temperature, that is controllable on mine. I can also set it to only turn on at certain times of day. The advantage for me is that the current draw is nowhere near that of an element, and so I have been able to put the heat pump on the backed up circuits.
  13. I don't know. I don't have any plumbing skills (I have an urge to fiddle with the plumbing, but this is not the same as actually having a clue. I have learned to ignore this urge.) I imagine a competent installer would be able to answer this sort of question.
  14. I have an Itron meter. When the system feeds back, the hand held customer interface unit reboots, but the actual connection to the grid is unaffected as far as I can tell. The device in my meter box has flashing LEDs and an LCD panel, and the other day, being bored, I stood outside and watched the flashing lights and the LCD display whilst the CIU was having a thrombie inside. Nothing seemed to change.
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