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Thank you for the great forum, Safe Driving over the weekend. Sincerely Jason


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  1. I think I know what you want to do. You want your inverter to stop supplying power and deplete the batteries further until there is sun again the following morning to start to charge. I have no idea if this can be done. How many batteries do you have on-site, won't it be better (I know it is expensive) to add another brick? In the event that you can not control the inverter somehow. I would imagine something like a switch, but I guess you will have to initiate the process from where you are. I know that my batteries sometimes run for 2+ hours on 22% and yes, they never go, or never before gone below 47v. Is there maybe a load that you can reduce for that early morning/night time hours to reduce battery depletion, there should be if you are willing to switch off power for the time being.
  2. The trick with the geyser is the size of the element. If it is only you and your wife, you can connect it to a timer (geyserwise). Depending on when you use the hot water, you can actually run that geyser only in daytime. I added a geyser to get away from night time water heating. My three kids shower or bath in the afternoon and me and the wife take the morning shift. Both geysers will typically be 60 degrees when the sun go down, one geyser feed hot water to the other, in the morning the one geyser will be in the 40's and the one feeding the house will be in the 50's, then the heating cycle start again. Only when in your case you use the hot water in the afternoon and you really need it in the morning is when you need to heat it during night time, other than that, just heat it during daytime with excess power.
  3. You are using almost no power at all Solar is a "way of life" change in my opinion. In short (many more details behind the scenes) 1. The bulk of your demand should be shifted to daytime when you have sunlight to supply the power. It also don't mean that you can start each and every appliance you own at the same time during that time. 2. How much power do you need to get from sunset to sunrise? This is what you should base your battery bank on (in my opinion) so that you don't run out of power halfway through the night. Also the bigger your battery bank is the better your system can handle inrush/spikes. 3. As mentioned in 2, how much power do you need from sunrise to sunset, basically to run whatever power you need as well as to have a bit extra to re-charge your batteries. I bought the solar panels first without knowing anything based on my crooked calculation, in the end it actually worked to my advantage. Since then I learned a bunch for someone with 0 experience in electricity. Luckily in my household the only thing that did draw a lot of power during night time was a geyser, an oven and a kettle. The oven is on-grid (used 3-4 times a week), the kettle was swopped with a gas kettle, I do currently use a 900ml kettle for those quick cups in the evening. I sorted out the geyser and manage the timing on the geyser/s. The swimming pool run from 9am to 1pm (1kwh) (ironing happens between 1pm and 2pm), the wife run the washing machine between 8am and 9am (barely 1kwh) and any other time the geyser/s are not running, the geyser/s run on and off between 8:45am to 14:15pm (2kwh each). But my setup can handle all of that, even the once a week lawnmower. You will definitely not need such a huge system as I can imagine that you already have a solar geyser in place as well. We have thus far not have dirty clothes nor cold water, knocking on wood . I have the grid as back-up currently and only on cloudy days along with load-shedding do we need to manually switch off the geysers to lower load so that the batteries don't get drained. When there are no load-shedding the system run on it's own and will switch to grid if need to.
  4. With load-shedding stage 3-8, we might run out of fuel as well.
  5. You might only be able to draw 50% out of those batteries.
  6. 1. Yes, max supply per inverter 5kva; 2. It will, but could be a little light, I have no experience with Gel batteries, I do know that depending on the age of your current batteries, you can not just add on, except for lithiums where you can add on over a period of time; 3. Is better to have the same inverters, more important is that the firmware of the inverters are the same; 4. You could be limited to around 4000w input per inverter depending on the inverter specs, you need to be within the Amp and Voltage parameters also.
  7. When the communication work properly, the low cut-off voltage do not matter, you can reset it to 45v if you want, within a couple mins the batteries will change that setting back to 47v. What happened in your scenario, the batteries probably went down to below 10% and shut off to protect against total discharge, or at whatever setting you had set it up to. Unfortunately, you have to manually reset/restart the batteries after that. I don't know how far they will go down but on 9th January while I was in hospital, we had a cloudy day, load-shedding, and me not able to tell someone to lower the load. My electrician luckily went past my home to pick up his RPi and saw the hectic mess starting to evolve. He quickly lowered the load, reset the batteries, they were only beeping with alarm and did not shut down yet and were at 7% (the batteries according to my graph still show 47v), right at that moment of reset apparently the sun came out behind the clouds and all were well again. Our major problem currently is cloudy/rainy weather with a combination of load-shedding. If load-shedding is not there, the weather don't matter, if load-shedding is there, then hopefully at that time your batteries are full enough to carry through the cloudy weather.
  8. The new model is called a "load-shedding relay", basically stop any power going to a certain appliance during certain times as well as when something else is drawing power. After that item, lets say primary geyser shuts of, it will supply power again within 15 minutes. Cost is over R 1 000, I have one installed, nice to have but not really needed if your timing/timers are working properly. If not, then you might see this as a need.
  9. Hi, Your system is running as it should, sometimes #2 will jump to 140A, it do not actually put 140A into the battery. No matter what your settings are, if you are set to PYL (#5), the system regulate itself. It should not reduce your cycles significantly. I have seen that when our house is less “busy” it take longer to turn a cycle though. I have not had a cycle turning faster than 24 hours (I however have 4 of those batteries). I unfortunately have some trouble now with my Pi freezing more often as I am not mobile enough to go and fiddle with it 10x a day :). I know it seems scary, but just leave those batteries to do what they do. It is normal that when they are 100% that they will discharge a bit and then recharge. If you want, I can go back and plot my system for you to compare. Just keep in mind that I have lost some data due to my Pi deciding to strike.
  10. Sorry for the late reply. I will for sure help you if I can.
  11. This post has totally gone haywire on my tablet, no more in date order, seems like you have sorted out your problem by replacing your inverter, sorry for my late reply, broke my leg a couple weeks ago and was out of the loop for a while.
  12. @viceroy you have done a lot of work yourself and it really looks neat and tidy. Well done.
  13. I will check on the email if the pin-out was the same
  14. Hi, I have used this on the US3000 and US2000, work on both batteries.


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