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FixAMess

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Everything posted by FixAMess

  1. Question; How does one know when your battery is performing well? There are so many statements that refer to X is better than Y because it "performs well". Pylontech "performed well" till we got 3-4 yrs experience in using them....and the warranty sems to be worthless China, where most batteries are manufactured grades their batteries industry wide as follows; "A" grade ; "A + " and "A-" (A+ have 2 yr warranty with manufacturer, A- the reseller/battery manufacturer carries the warranty) B, C etc... So any A-grade battery cell should be of the same quality on a cell level. How many people have actually taken their battery apart to see what it looks like inside, see build quality? For me there are 2 major decision criteria 1) BMS - One should buy a battery based on the BMS it uses - if the manufacturer does not tell you the make of the BMS stay away. 2) There must be a BMS application that you can use to see what's going on in at a cell level 3) Does the battery talk to the inverter without fancy additional cables, configs, fine tuning etc. 4) Warranty - Does the manufacturer / supplier keep to their word? 5) PRICE.. So based on the above, any A-grade battery with a decent BMS (PACE comes to mind) will do the job and provide "good performance". My view; Price, make sure the cells are A-grade, battery has a decent BMS. Also, most manufactures will say "1C", but in the fine print they recommend C/2 charge and discharge. Its purely a physical chemistry thing that the charge rate over C/2 degrades the battery quicker due to lithium plating on the anode. I have pylontechs, frankly I don't expect them to last 10 yrs. I also expect that in 10 yrs time there will be different Tecnologies that will make our current batteries obsolete.
  2. Do the standards require green and red or just indicators (of any colour) ?
  3. Is signage required on the main breaker for the property, next to the meter (not visible from main DB) My main breaker / meter is inside my property but on an outside wall? If one switches off the main breaker (outside), one assumes there's no elec power within the house which may be wrong if one has solar and one does not have access to the main DB, which in my case is inside the house. So if the elec meter/breaker is outside the property, street facing, is it not possible that the signage should be there as well? Sounds logical to me....
  4. It can only output 20A Correct, and 20Ax240V = 4.8kW, not 4.6kW..When pushing back to grid I've seen 250V x 19A-20A over an extended period. At 255V the inverter restarts.. So I had another look today and found something rather interesting on the Goodwe reporting... On the power flow diagram it shows 4764W from panels and 4790W (Battery+25W) into loads BUT on the details page it shows only converting Output Power 4595W!! Maybe @P1000 has a point! Seems not even Goodwe can make its mind up as to just how much power it can deliver to loads...
  5. This is not correct. It can invert DC to AC 5kW+..BUT only invert 4.6kW on backup side. I have seen 5,5kW on occasion, but it seems to sit at around 4.8kW nominal. When charging the battery, DC bus, + DC to AC it will go over 5kW easily. However, the goodwe comes out in a 6kW version as well, so maybe the wires got crossed there. Frankly, are you sure it's a new inverter because they're more expensive than a 5kW sunsync.. I think your installer is not to be trusted.
  6. If you have not already, you should update the firmware on the US2000 to the latest version. PM me if you require the .bin file.
  7. Will it not balance the batteries, but not the cells? That is the point I was trying to make..
  8. Maybe that was too short a time to balance the batteries more would have been better. All the pylontech batteries I have connected have had Over voltage issues which usually settle down after a few days/charge/discharge cycles.
  9. Are you using self-define for the battery, I don't think the goodwe lists your battery in the selection menue? What settings are you using?
  10. I updated 2000Plus and 3000C. I have the .bin file for 2000Plus, the 3000C is a bit more tricky, the upgrade versions are different, 2 available the last time I looked. Search on the forum for differences and related file. If you just want to connect the 2000Plus to 3000C, you only need to upgrade the 2000plus. I stacked 1x3000C, 4 x 2000 plus, 3x3000C. Let me know if you need the 2000plus .bin. and installer. Also remember you will need 2 different cables to connect to the console port on the battery, plus vs "C".
  11. On the Sunsync 8kW inverter, what is the maximum battery charge current that can be drawn from grid? I see the specs mention a 40A input current, from grid, am I correct in saying this is also the max charge current from grid alone, no PV included?
  12. If one looks at the above charge from grid settings, 17:00 -> 21:00 is set to charge from grid. Is this correct? I suggest all inverter owners try to supply their own power (battery) , where possible, at SA peak usage times I.e. 17:00 -> 21:00. Will this not aid the overall power issue we are experiencing now?
  13. In my experience a minimum of 15kWh battery backup is required for the average SA home, taking LS, cloudy days, family requirements etc. into account. One can do with less, but then you have to act like a Nazi electrical usage guy.
  14. I think there is a misunderstanding. Normally the DB is split into essential and non-essential. The inverter will feed both but is fed from 1 battery bank and the same solar panels. So the battery bank is not separated. Where are you based?
  15. Are the heavy duty appliances on the essential side? The 10kW possible power is split scross the 3 phases but a max of e.g 6kW on any one phase. You need to find out what the max load on a single phase can be. On the sunsync 12kW inverter it's 6kW on a single phase, so the goodwe might be the same ratio i.e 5kW, which may be why it's tripping. Not very helpfull but a good starting point. I have a 5kW goodwe, it's essential output is 4600W, that's my kettle + mwave, add anything else snd it trips. Try your kettle, mwave and 1000w appliance together that should trip if your max per phase is 5kW.
  16. I didn't mean disconnect the BMS, I meant disconnect from load/inverter to allow cells to equalize.
  17. What BMS does the battery have? Ideally you should connect to the battery and see what's going on at the cell level. There are 2 levels of issues, a warning and a fault. Warnings are good cos the bms is telling the inverter there's an issue, so they are at least communicating. The bms is probably doing its job. A "fault" being issued is bad, a warning has been issued but the cell is still being charged. FYI, even my pylontechs have ov warnings, it takes them a few charge/discharge cycles to settle down. Discharge your battery down to 80% DoD(20% SOC), then disconnect it for 24hr, maybe the cells will equalize and then let it charge normally..See what it does. Repeat a few times...
  18. Yes, engineer still required, the sunsync is grid-tied, irrespective of whether or not you feed back into the grid.
  19. 1 - yes 2 - yes 3 - Yes, but why? The grid is effectively a battery from which you can draw as required, when Sun + battery is not enough. 4 - Not sure, because at night your battery will also export its charge to grid if there is no solar. Youd need a switch to tell the inverter not to export at night??? 5 - Yes..
  20. It's got to do with the power, Amps that your inveter can draw and the capability of the battery bms to provide. E.g your inverter can draw 100A, but battery only provide 50 A then you'd need a fuse for 70A. If you have 2x100Ah batteries and your inverter can draw 200A that then you'd need a 250A fuse. So you need to Match the inverter draw with what the battery can provide and add 25%.. A 5kW inverter can nominally draw 100A, so a 125A fuse will do. A 2 pole breaker , 1 for positive, 1 for negative will do.
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