FixAMess

Nooooo....It is rather disappointing though! There is apparently a workaround that I'm investigating..
Goodwe is in progress wrt. Certifying the up5000. Not holding my breath though.
The us2000/3000C models are certified so I can't understand my the up5000 is a problem.

I'm not sure. On the goodwe app it allows one to add and mix us2000/3000/ and C derivatives, but not up5000.
One can add a up5000 by itself but not mixing  older us3000's and new together..
The industry/tech is changing so fast, I expect in 5 yrs time, today's new equipment will be incompatible with the then equipment...Try finding a match now for solar panels bought in 2019.
 
 

For the technocrats out there, here is a research paper on the C, C/2 debate..
In short C discharge, charge rates reduces lifespan of the battery significantly.
If you want a long battery life C/2 is the way to go.
 
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2590116819300116

I would agree with this IF the user downloaded the software themselves, plugged in a network cable then proceeded to do the install - there is inherent risk there. But the outline clearly shows the processes were performed by someone from sunsynk - so the risk is all on them and sunsynk as a company. I think OP is well within their rights because they followed the published process and it resulted in a broken device - something that can (and has) happened to any of us (@WAP) included
 

Instead of just using a spreadsheet it helps to understand how/why the calc is required/done.
Here is a write up for the OP to figure it all out...Can't remember where I got it from and cant take credit for it.
As temp decreases, panel Voltage(V) increases. We want to calculate the maximum Voc for a panel at the minimum temp we expect in the region. So for JHB we use 0’C, in Bloemfontein we use -10C or whatever you chose...
To calculate string length (series) use the total Voc (Sum of voltages, because they are in series remember, (+) including adjustment for cold temp) from panel data sheet and then do as follows;
 Record-low temperature: -10ºC (From your region, town)
Temperature coefficient of (VOC): – (0.30) %/ºC (From data sheet *)
Module open circuit voltage (VOC): 39.4 V *
Inverter maximum input voltage: 600V (From inverter, MPPT data sheet)
The STC temperature is 25ºC. This temperature needs to be deducted from the array location’s record-low temperature of -10 degrees as follows:
25 – (-10) = 35º difference.
Multiply the 35º difference by the temperature coefficient of VOC (I’ve used the positive value for an easier calculation, though you get the same result) then multiply by the module’s VOC:
35 x 0.0030 = 0.105
0.105 x 39.4V = 4.137V (So the Voc will increase by 4.13 V if the temp goes down to -10C)
This is how many volts each pv module will increase due to record-low temperatures.
Add the voltage increase to the Module VOC.
Then divide the inverter maximum input voltage by that number. This will give you the maximum number of modules that can be wired in a series string per that inverter and specific location.
4.137 V (from calculation due to low max low temperature) + 39.4V (from datasheet) = 43.537 Vmax (At -10C) Increase in voltage due to temp drop per panel.
Normal voltage at 25C
600V / 43.537 = 13.7 Panels (round down to a whole number)
The maximum number of pv modules in this series string is 13.
A series string of 14 could potentially produce more than 600V during record-low temperatures.
When string in parallel, add Current, V stays the same, when in series, add Voltage, I stays the same.
 

Yes! Get some Pylontech batteries and be done with it .

Got me looking too and for the boffs - https://pvpmc.sandia.gov/modeling-steps/1-weather-design-inputs/irradiance-and-insolation-2/, the difference between irradiance and insolation.

Hi , I was unsure about something that i have read about multiple times on this forum and asked a question to the community to clarify. I don't think that is how gossip works. I would like to believe that it could help other people who also read/heard this info. There were users claiming that Sunsynk are teaching installers to put 20A breakers on the 8kw in their training course and this never made sense to me. Luckily we have some great members here like @P1000 with a tremendous amount of knowledge willing to share it freely.

Is that not what its supposed to do? My pylontechs have the same feature, most BMS's do....
So why is this special or are you just impressed? The entire solar system impresses me, its magical!
Sun, battery, escom all combined, constantly juggling from the different sources, beautiful to watch.

Just a quick FYI....
I had a goodwe that died after 3 months usage. It was replaced with new after about 2 weeks. 
I learnt a valuable lesson. When you buy from xxx.co.za, they are the 3rd or even 4th vendor in the SA side, supply chain.
I bought my unit from X, but the repair was logged against Y....Only after intervening  and much discussion with a really helpful lady at Segen was my problem.solved.
Your installer has to argue with many people in the supply chain to fix the problem, it's a full time job handling the supply chain issues on a return/repair.
I can't complain with my Goodwe. A really boring item, it just works. Simple to use and after 4 yrs it's still going! No screeching or high pitch fans. I believe there's a 6kW unit arriving in April, priced competitively vs the sunsync 5kW.
 

Just an update. Added a Wemos D1 Mini to control the fans. Running at 100% all the time is not efficient. The fan speed is automatically regulated based on the AC temperature and the set temperature threshold.  It's a lot quieter now. 
 

Just reading through my own replies I'm confused as well! 😂
There are many concepts to understand as well as the grid up, grid down scenarios!

The non essential side sits before the inverter (from grid) and after the current meter, so strictly speaking, no non essential power goes through the inverter when the grid is down.
When the grid is up, you can feed the entire house up to the 5/8 kW rating of the inverter, but it should not trip if you draw power on the  essential side > 5kW, since the inverter will blend power from the grid  and pv..On the non essential side, when escom up, you have pass through current , which allows > 5kW to non essential (up to 32A, ??? I think, sunsync) .
When escom down, you will only have the 5/8kW available on the essential side, which is what you've stated.
 

Hi,
you are correct in being overwhelmed with all the info out there and what is the "correct" battery and Inverter.
The flavour of the day is definitely sunsync and in all honesty, it is a good choice, 1 of many, for the average home. 8kW is a lot for a home bt everybody seems to insist that 8kW is the way to go.
Consider this; the 8kW is what the inverter can take from the sun/panels (DC) and convert to AC. You will only get the full 8kW at noon (if your panels face N)  and you have approximately 10kW of panels. You will get a bell curve of solar production from 6am to 6pm (location dependent) in summer, starting from zero and increasing, then decreasing. To provide 8kW of power from batteries you will need at least a 10kW battery bank (and that will only last you an hour or so)..Rule of thumb, in winter you will get production of 4*installed solar capacity and in summer 5+...E.g You have 6kW panels, in summer you'll get 30+ kWh of power/day, in winter 20kwh/day, again depends where you are and the angle of your panels to the sun.
The point is 8kW is a lot for a household, I have  5kW system and it does what is required with the panels and battery combination I have...The inverter capacity, PV panels kW, battery bank must all align to give your 8kW. If you don't plan to run your geyser, washing machine during load-shedding then 8kW is probably not required.
One should consider the following when buying an inverter; (this is for the average guy, non technical and just wants a system that does the job with minimal fuss)
1) After sales support
2) Functionality (does it do what YOU require)
3) Ease of use
4) Talk natively to the battery
The above is what the average person requires from an inverter. I'll bet that MOST users don't want anything more than an inverter that allows the following;
1) Blend PV, battery, Escom
2) Talk natively to their battery
3) Maybe configure the inverter to charge/discharge from battery at specific times
4) Configure inverter to provide PV to the entire house but NOT feed back to the grid.
 
The sunsync/Deye does all this, but so does the Goodwe, Kodak etc...There are many out there that do a good job.
The next issue is cost...Whatever you  are prepared to pay will depend on the inverter you get.
As for batteries which are the most expensive part of the entire setup, consider the below, and remember, once you have 1 battery, you will want more and you are pretty much locked into the same battery supplier if you don't want to make config changes to your system.
E.g. Pylontechs are simple to augment. Batteries talk to each other, use the same cables, plug and play. Simple! To add a different battery to the pylontechs will require some work and they probably will not talk to each other so you will have issues with knowing exactly what your SOC/DoD is.
Batteries;
1) Must be able to talk to the inverter natively. Look on the forum, its full of people trying to connect some obscure battery to their inverter. It becomes an issue of charge, discharge profiles, warranty issues,no support etc...What a mess!
2) Must have a good BMS (difficult to tell unfortunately) 
3) Must have after sales support (and we are starting to see the issues with warranties now)
Frankly, batteries are unfortunately not required to go through a thorough testing process, certification in SA before they can be sold, so there are a lot of "new" battery brands out there that seem inexpensive, and therefore very enticing to a cash strapped buyer.
Pylontechs are well tested, seem reliable but are relatively expensive when considering the other brands, but you cant go wrong with pylontechs...Its a safe-to- buy battery.
I'm sure you'll get many more views, many criticizing my above opinion, so yes, its a difficult choice..
 
 

The C rating only becomes an issue when you don't have many batteries. E.g , I have 4xus3000 pylons, max discharge is 37x4 A..I usually max out st 80 Amps, odd..
And remember, compare C rating of charge vs discharge. Do they charge at 1C as well?
Most do not, usually C/2 + thereabouts, so even if you discharge at 1C, you can only charge at c/2, so your 1C battery will not fully charge in the time between loafshedding , sun,rain,cloud. So you end up buying another battery and so we go...The primary battery consideration is duration of use, 6hrs of load minimum, for loadshedding, not drain as quickly as possible.

Hi,
you are correct in being overwhelmed with all the info out there and what is the "correct" battery and Inverter.
The flavour of the day is definitely sunsync and in all honesty, it is a good choice, 1 of many, for the average home. 8kW is a lot for a home bt everybody seems to insist that 8kW is the way to go.
Consider this; the 8kW is what the inverter can take from the sun/panels (DC) and convert to AC. You will only get the full 8kW at noon (if your panels face N)  and you have approximately 10kW of panels. You will get a bell curve of solar production from 6am to 6pm (location dependent) in summer, starting from zero and increasing, then decreasing. To provide 8kW of power from batteries you will need at least a 10kW battery bank (and that will only last you an hour or so)..Rule of thumb, in winter you will get production of 4*installed solar capacity and in summer 5+...E.g You have 6kW panels, in summer you'll get 30+ kWh of power/day, in winter 20kwh/day, again depends where you are and the angle of your panels to the sun.
The point is 8kW is a lot for a household, I have  5kW system and it does what is required with the panels and battery combination I have...The inverter capacity, PV panels kW, battery bank must all align to give your 8kW. If you don't plan to run your geyser, washing machine during load-shedding then 8kW is probably not required.
One should consider the following when buying an inverter; (this is for the average guy, non technical and just wants a system that does the job with minimal fuss)
1) After sales support
2) Functionality (does it do what YOU require)
3) Ease of use
4) Talk natively to the battery
The above is what the average person requires from an inverter. I'll bet that MOST users don't want anything more than an inverter that allows the following;
1) Blend PV, battery, Escom
2) Talk natively to their battery
3) Maybe configure the inverter to charge/discharge from battery at specific times
4) Configure inverter to provide PV to the entire house but NOT feed back to the grid.
 
The sunsync/Deye does all this, but so does the Goodwe, Kodak etc...There are many out there that do a good job.
The next issue is cost...Whatever you  are prepared to pay will depend on the inverter you get.
As for batteries which are the most expensive part of the entire setup, consider the below, and remember, once you have 1 battery, you will want more and you are pretty much locked into the same battery supplier if you don't want to make config changes to your system.
E.g. Pylontechs are simple to augment. Batteries talk to each other, use the same cables, plug and play. Simple! To add a different battery to the pylontechs will require some work and they probably will not talk to each other so you will have issues with knowing exactly what your SOC/DoD is.
Batteries;
1) Must be able to talk to the inverter natively. Look on the forum, its full of people trying to connect some obscure battery to their inverter. It becomes an issue of charge, discharge profiles, warranty issues,no support etc...What a mess!
2) Must have a good BMS (difficult to tell unfortunately) 
3) Must have after sales support (and we are starting to see the issues with warranties now)
Frankly, batteries are unfortunately not required to go through a thorough testing process, certification in SA before they can be sold, so there are a lot of "new" battery brands out there that seem inexpensive, and therefore very enticing to a cash strapped buyer.
Pylontechs are well tested, seem reliable but are relatively expensive when considering the other brands, but you cant go wrong with pylontechs...Its a safe-to- buy battery.
I'm sure you'll get many more views, many criticizing my above opinion, so yes, its a difficult choice..
 
 

Hi,
you are correct in being overwhelmed with all the info out there and what is the "correct" battery and Inverter.
The flavour of the day is definitely sunsync and in all honesty, it is a good choice, 1 of many, for the average home. 8kW is a lot for a home bt everybody seems to insist that 8kW is the way to go.
Consider this; the 8kW is what the inverter can take from the sun/panels (DC) and convert to AC. You will only get the full 8kW at noon (if your panels face N)  and you have approximately 10kW of panels. You will get a bell curve of solar production from 6am to 6pm (location dependent) in summer, starting from zero and increasing, then decreasing. To provide 8kW of power from batteries you will need at least a 10kW battery bank (and that will only last you an hour or so)..Rule of thumb, in winter you will get production of 4*installed solar capacity and in summer 5+...E.g You have 6kW panels, in summer you'll get 30+ kWh of power/day, in winter 20kwh/day, again depends where you are and the angle of your panels to the sun.
The point is 8kW is a lot for a household, I have  5kW system and it does what is required with the panels and battery combination I have...The inverter capacity, PV panels kW, battery bank must all align to give your 8kW. If you don't plan to run your geyser, washing machine during load-shedding then 8kW is probably not required.
One should consider the following when buying an inverter; (this is for the average guy, non technical and just wants a system that does the job with minimal fuss)
1) After sales support
2) Functionality (does it do what YOU require)
3) Ease of use
4) Talk natively to the battery
The above is what the average person requires from an inverter. I'll bet that MOST users don't want anything more than an inverter that allows the following;
1) Blend PV, battery, Escom
2) Talk natively to their battery
3) Maybe configure the inverter to charge/discharge from battery at specific times
4) Configure inverter to provide PV to the entire house but NOT feed back to the grid.
 
The sunsync/Deye does all this, but so does the Goodwe, Kodak etc...There are many out there that do a good job.
The next issue is cost...Whatever you  are prepared to pay will depend on the inverter you get.
As for batteries which are the most expensive part of the entire setup, consider the below, and remember, once you have 1 battery, you will want more and you are pretty much locked into the same battery supplier if you don't want to make config changes to your system.
E.g. Pylontechs are simple to augment. Batteries talk to each other, use the same cables, plug and play. Simple! To add a different battery to the pylontechs will require some work and they probably will not talk to each other so you will have issues with knowing exactly what your SOC/DoD is.
Batteries;
1) Must be able to talk to the inverter natively. Look on the forum, its full of people trying to connect some obscure battery to their inverter. It becomes an issue of charge, discharge profiles, warranty issues,no support etc...What a mess!
2) Must have a good BMS (difficult to tell unfortunately) 
3) Must have after sales support (and we are starting to see the issues with warranties now)
Frankly, batteries are unfortunately not required to go through a thorough testing process, certification in SA before they can be sold, so there are a lot of "new" battery brands out there that seem inexpensive, and therefore very enticing to a cash strapped buyer.
Pylontechs are well tested, seem reliable but are relatively expensive when considering the other brands, but you cant go wrong with pylontechs...Its a safe-to- buy battery.
I'm sure you'll get many more views, many criticizing my above opinion, so yes, its a difficult choice..
 
 

Hi,
you are correct in being overwhelmed with all the info out there and what is the "correct" battery and Inverter.
The flavour of the day is definitely sunsync and in all honesty, it is a good choice, 1 of many, for the average home. 8kW is a lot for a home bt everybody seems to insist that 8kW is the way to go.
Consider this; the 8kW is what the inverter can take from the sun/panels (DC) and convert to AC. You will only get the full 8kW at noon (if your panels face N)  and you have approximately 10kW of panels. You will get a bell curve of solar production from 6am to 6pm (location dependent) in summer, starting from zero and increasing, then decreasing. To provide 8kW of power from batteries you will need at least a 10kW battery bank (and that will only last you an hour or so)..Rule of thumb, in winter you will get production of 4*installed solar capacity and in summer 5+...E.g You have 6kW panels, in summer you'll get 30+ kWh of power/day, in winter 20kwh/day, again depends where you are and the angle of your panels to the sun.
The point is 8kW is a lot for a household, I have  5kW system and it does what is required with the panels and battery combination I have...The inverter capacity, PV panels kW, battery bank must all align to give your 8kW. If you don't plan to run your geyser, washing machine during load-shedding then 8kW is probably not required.
One should consider the following when buying an inverter; (this is for the average guy, non technical and just wants a system that does the job with minimal fuss)
1) After sales support
2) Functionality (does it do what YOU require)
3) Ease of use
4) Talk natively to the battery
The above is what the average person requires from an inverter. I'll bet that MOST users don't want anything more than an inverter that allows the following;
1) Blend PV, battery, Escom
2) Talk natively to their battery
3) Maybe configure the inverter to charge/discharge from battery at specific times
4) Configure inverter to provide PV to the entire house but NOT feed back to the grid.
 
The sunsync/Deye does all this, but so does the Goodwe, Kodak etc...There are many out there that do a good job.
The next issue is cost...Whatever you  are prepared to pay will depend on the inverter you get.
As for batteries which are the most expensive part of the entire setup, consider the below, and remember, once you have 1 battery, you will want more and you are pretty much locked into the same battery supplier if you don't want to make config changes to your system.
E.g. Pylontechs are simple to augment. Batteries talk to each other, use the same cables, plug and play. Simple! To add a different battery to the pylontechs will require some work and they probably will not talk to each other so you will have issues with knowing exactly what your SOC/DoD is.
Batteries;
1) Must be able to talk to the inverter natively. Look on the forum, its full of people trying to connect some obscure battery to their inverter. It becomes an issue of charge, discharge profiles, warranty issues,no support etc...What a mess!
2) Must have a good BMS (difficult to tell unfortunately) 
3) Must have after sales support (and we are starting to see the issues with warranties now)
Frankly, batteries are unfortunately not required to go through a thorough testing process, certification in SA before they can be sold, so there are a lot of "new" battery brands out there that seem inexpensive, and therefore very enticing to a cash strapped buyer.
Pylontechs are well tested, seem reliable but are relatively expensive when considering the other brands, but you cant go wrong with pylontechs...Its a safe-to- buy battery.
I'm sure you'll get many more views, many criticizing my above opinion, so yes, its a difficult choice..
 
 

Hi,
you are correct in being overwhelmed with all the info out there and what is the "correct" battery and Inverter.
The flavour of the day is definitely sunsync and in all honesty, it is a good choice, 1 of many, for the average home. 8kW is a lot for a home bt everybody seems to insist that 8kW is the way to go.
Consider this; the 8kW is what the inverter can take from the sun/panels (DC) and convert to AC. You will only get the full 8kW at noon (if your panels face N)  and you have approximately 10kW of panels. You will get a bell curve of solar production from 6am to 6pm (location dependent) in summer, starting from zero and increasing, then decreasing. To provide 8kW of power from batteries you will need at least a 10kW battery bank (and that will only last you an hour or so)..Rule of thumb, in winter you will get production of 4*installed solar capacity and in summer 5+...E.g You have 6kW panels, in summer you'll get 30+ kWh of power/day, in winter 20kwh/day, again depends where you are and the angle of your panels to the sun.
The point is 8kW is a lot for a household, I have  5kW system and it does what is required with the panels and battery combination I have...The inverter capacity, PV panels kW, battery bank must all align to give your 8kW. If you don't plan to run your geyser, washing machine during load-shedding then 8kW is probably not required.
One should consider the following when buying an inverter; (this is for the average guy, non technical and just wants a system that does the job with minimal fuss)
1) After sales support
2) Functionality (does it do what YOU require)
3) Ease of use
4) Talk natively to the battery
The above is what the average person requires from an inverter. I'll bet that MOST users don't want anything more than an inverter that allows the following;
1) Blend PV, battery, Escom
2) Talk natively to their battery
3) Maybe configure the inverter to charge/discharge from battery at specific times
4) Configure inverter to provide PV to the entire house but NOT feed back to the grid.
 
The sunsync/Deye does all this, but so does the Goodwe, Kodak etc...There are many out there that do a good job.
The next issue is cost...Whatever you  are prepared to pay will depend on the inverter you get.
As for batteries which are the most expensive part of the entire setup, consider the below, and remember, once you have 1 battery, you will want more and you are pretty much locked into the same battery supplier if you don't want to make config changes to your system.
E.g. Pylontechs are simple to augment. Batteries talk to each other, use the same cables, plug and play. Simple! To add a different battery to the pylontechs will require some work and they probably will not talk to each other so you will have issues with knowing exactly what your SOC/DoD is.
Batteries;
1) Must be able to talk to the inverter natively. Look on the forum, its full of people trying to connect some obscure battery to their inverter. It becomes an issue of charge, discharge profiles, warranty issues,no support etc...What a mess!
2) Must have a good BMS (difficult to tell unfortunately) 
3) Must have after sales support (and we are starting to see the issues with warranties now)
Frankly, batteries are unfortunately not required to go through a thorough testing process, certification in SA before they can be sold, so there are a lot of "new" battery brands out there that seem inexpensive, and therefore very enticing to a cash strapped buyer.
Pylontechs are well tested, seem reliable but are relatively expensive when considering the other brands, but you cant go wrong with pylontechs...Its a safe-to- buy battery.
I'm sure you'll get many more views, many criticizing my above opinion, so yes, its a difficult choice..
 
 

Good question. I'm not sure if the Goodwe has a setting for Dyness like it does for pylontechs, but I think the bms should do its job and prevent over voltage.
Even on.pylontechs, when I added a new battery it also had over voltage warnings, but after a few days it was ok..
 

I have a Goodwe.
Does not hum, make a noise, interfere with wifi, hearing aids, TV, radio or my sleep....
Its so quiet, I go kick it once a day to make sure its alive!

I have a Goodwe.
Does not hum, make a noise, interfere with wifi, hearing aids, TV, radio or my sleep....
Its so quiet, I go kick it once a day to make sure its alive!

BUT, beware that if you are adding it to US2000/3000 A/B then you will need to upgrade the firmware of the older batteries so they can talk to each other.
What old batteries are you using?

Battery packs of different capacity have different internal resistance (Ri). The difference of cable length has no importance as the difference of resistance due to cable length is neglectable compared to the difference of Ri.

Not sure what the point of the above is....
In a grid-tied system, with zero feedback to the grid your system (Panels + Inverter) will only satisfy the load.
The answer is "panels should cover the load"
So what are you comparing? 
You should be asking yourself how much of my daily load is covered by the power generated.
Even then, if your load is constant over the entire day, you will have periods of drawing from the grid to supplement your loads in the early morning and late afternoon.