Tinuva

Yes but the person replying just provided me documentation on how to locate the "wifi reset" button which I already had to use and explained I did. I realised the person didn't quite get what I was on about.

Yeah I have never seen my batteries charge faster than around 89amps, even though the limit shows 100A charge and 125A discharge.

I have to say, I am incredibly frustrated the past couple of days with the wifi module. Over the weekend, the inverter just stop responding to home assistant, but also stopped updating sems portal. On top of that, can't connect to the Solar wifi AP of the wifi module, because it keeps on resetting, so not even able to get into pv master. Its like having an inverter and just flying blind having no clue what is going on. Eventually was able to get it online by completely powering down the inverter having everything reset and it was back up...for a day!! Then down again from last night. Did contact Goodwe on the weekend and they responded. Provided me with latest firmware for the wifi module (which I think I was already on) and they also remotely upgraded my ARM firmware to 17. So eventually I found some segan solar doc, which shows there is a wifi reset/reload button. This coupled with a few more complete shutdowns of the inverter, managed to reset my wifi module settings, where it doesn't connect to wifi at all and this allowed me to get back in. Only to get everything set up and to fail miserably again. Eventually I figured out, it happens when I change the password of the Solar wifi AP, because who wants to leave it on the default password right? and allow anyone in range to connect. &*#R&*(@#&)*(@*&(@ So NOT changing that password, resetting again, and now it seems I am back online. So much for security.

I dont know if it is true for all goodwe inverters, but after setting the settings on my 5048 ES, you have to "apply" them. This gives a warning that it will reboot the inverter. You accept, the inverter reboot with the new applied settings and then you know it will be there even after another random reboot.

When its set to none, it doesn't disconnect the grid when there are issues with frequency and/or voltage. What is the point of having it set to South Africa when using none on wave detection? As in what safety features still work in that combination?

So interesting question. In PV Master in the advanced settings, is the inverter set to do full-wave detection or half wave or none? Because if that is not set to full-wave, then it doesn't matter if the inverter is set to South Africa or not. I have heard of other goodwe installations in SA where full wave detection was not set. On my own inverter, it is set to full wave detection, and every freaking time there is something funny on the grid, it kicks into off-grid mode. What is annoying about this is, then 30 second later the inverter goes into check mode, which kills all the solar generation for 60 seconds, and then its like the MPPT restarts and the solar generation have to rebuild up slowly to full generation. Now imagine this happening every 5-10 minutes. Highly annoying. However I will take this over spikes going through to the backup side and killing fridges.

Where you located? Sounds like someone need to help you in person on site. You need to read the diagnostic messages in pv master, to understand if the inverter is complaining about something. If the BMS read status good, there are charge limit showing provided by the BMS, battery is turned on, and there is excess PV, the inverter should start charging the battery slowly before ramping up. However, first thing to read, is the diagnostic messages, without that, you will be cluess as to why the inverter is not charging. Try and provide as much screenshots from pv master as possible, maybe we can figure it out.

I am running fibre for the network, because the distance is long enough that copper wouldn't work anyway or just give too much issues. I have no intention of mixing things, which is why I run more than one conduit underground. I really want quality network connectivity

Thanks everyone. It looks like I should go with 10mm2 cable. As for the EL switch, I will do a CoC from a reputable company and find out what gets signed off.

Unsure about this. The earth leakage trip when it should almost always. It is only when it rains, I have to bypass the outbuilding, which tells me, there is a problem there, however most of the time, there is almost nothing turned on there, only the garage motor. I've looked it over and over, and it has to be this wire underground that is the issue, only place I can see any water getting to something it should not.

Hi, I need some guidance. The wire for our house's outbuilding, a separate standing garage, was run under ground without conduit. I don't know how many owners ago this was, but this cable was damaged in the past and when it rain enough (happens every winter in CPT), then that causes the earth leakage to trip. Then I have to turn off the outbuilding breaker and can get the whole house back online. So my plan is to re-run a new cable. This time I won't run it through the garden (underground run of at least 90m) along the property line etc (silly IMHO), but instead run it through the roof like all the other wiring, and then use the shortest route underground between the 2 buildings which will only be 3m underground and inside conduit. I will run the wire myself then get an electrician to connect over to the new wire in both DBs in each building. The reason for this, I will be running some other networking cables too myself so may as well get the cable there ready. I also already have new empty conduits between the 2 buildings. The breaker in main house for outbuilding is 20A. The DB in outbuilding has a main-switch of 20A, a plugs breaker of 20A and a lights breaker of 10A. Very simplistic. What I need to know, what is the correct wire size I need to buy for this, so that it is legal. Should I go with 2.5mm or 4mm? Many thanks in advance!

Yeah I'd recommend a wave analyser to see what the sine wave looks like in real time. On the other hand, I think maybe its unfair to compare my equipment to the OP, because before getting solar, we changed most of our appliances to be inverter based. Eg. the fridge is an inverter based fridge. You know, similar to inverter aircons. So the fridge converts the AC to DC first and the motor run at variable speed instead of full speed as with the older non-inverter based fridges. This means, the power is cleaned before it gets to the motor. The only non-inverter appliance we have left, is the maybe the microwave and definitely the pool pump. I am unsure about the bar fridge...but it doesn't run full power on/off so I suspect it might be ok.

Also, that option is only super important if the BMS connection doesn't work. If BMS comms work, you can select any pylontech battery in the app and let bms comms take over the settings.

What firmware version is your inverter on? I think you need newer firmware first, then latest pv master app, before the pv master app will show newer batteries.

Don't have this problem, but I can tell you this. The goodwe, while ongrid, sync with the grid supply and if there is in fact spikes, those spikes are sent through to the backup side as the inverter mostly react slow to the spikes before throwing the load on to the batteries. I would blame your grid supply first. Find out if others in your street have the same issues.