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Vassen

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Vassen last won the day on April 8

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  1. If you heat water to let’s say 60 degrees and the incoming water is around 15 degrees, then we have the following. 200 litres of water is ~ 200kg. The specific heat capacity of water is approx 4.2 J / g.K The increase in temperature is 45 (60-15) So the energy needed is 200,000 x 45 x 4.2 = 37.8MJ 1kWh = 1000W x 3600s = 3.6MJ Hence, the energy needed is 37.8/3.6 = 10.5 kWh. The problem however is that evacuated tubes don’t do much in winter. On my 200l geyser with 20 tubes, it is able to only raise the temperature by around 20-30 degrees in winter. I
  2. Theoretically, yes, you could put 2000w of panels. The most important thing to always not exceed or come very close to is the voltage. It’s actually with any piece of equipment, exceeding the voltage thresholds are sure to release the smoke. in my opinion, it’s not worth it to oversized by too much unless you are off grid and every single last bit of power makes a huge difference. There are very few days where you have overcast days and still sufficient production. It’s either clear or lots of cloud cover and the additional capacity isn’t going to make too much of a difference.
  3. Correct. When it drops to 40% at 04:00, it will switch over to grid. Then from 8:00, it can drop another 10%
  4. Just make sure u click ok. Otherwise it’s not saved.
  5. Attached is what my settings look like. you want to set the battery to discharge in stages and still have enough for loadshedding if it does come. This will also depend on your loads though.
  6. I have read or seen somewhere that the times should start from 00:00 and proceed towards 24:00. however, you are starting from 17:00 and going towards 16:00. It’s worth a try to change and test.
  7. Depending on how fine the mesh is, maybe monitor for dust and clean out every so often.
  8. Don’t get something with too high current as the losses will be more. The Mono panels seem to have a higher voltage and lower current compared to the poly cells or this was my observation based on the few I looked at. I’m also looking for some panels for another string. I’ve come across some 78 cell JA panels. JAM78S10 range is around 450W and current is in the range of the 9.9A. Will work well for the sunsynk. I can’t seem to find local stock though.
  9. I don’t think the 22A is available as yet locally. Most suppliers will want to clear the old stock before the néw is available.
  10. Geysers are generally well insulated, even the old types so you are not going to get much heat transfer from the ambient to the geyser. I would definitely add an element in there even if it can get to say 40 degrees without an element. I would then heat the thing once a week to 65 degrees. Legionella bacteria would otherwise love that environment. I have a 150l geyser that came with the house. Its out on a flat roof and is still going strong. Added a geyserwise to it that only turns it on at midday and heats it to 65 degrees it also comes on if water temp drops below 50. I
  11. I don’t think you will be able to get more than 1200w out. The microinverter will simply adjust the current down so that the output is still 1200w. with my 4x365w panels, it doesn’t go past 1205w. Advantage of slightly larger panels is that in cloudy weather, the output is slightly higher.
  12. Well not really. Even if the voltage is 400V and the current on both string 9.9A, let’s say 10, that’s still 8kw. I saw on the sunsynk forum Keith mentioned something about 2.75kw per mppt, but that doesn’t make sense as my 1 gives around 2.9kw and has a lot more room. exceeding the voltage is a big no no, and we know the current clips, I don’t really know what would happen if the power is exceeded, my guess is that it would just clip the current further to keep the power in line with the max the inverter can accept. No. Either I got used to it, or it’s not that bad anymore.
  13. I have a doubt about that 90A. I would not really want to test it. One would probably end up tripping / burning down stuff before getting to 90A. Even the 35A in the 5kw seems a bit suspect to me. My unit went into overload and I don’t think the essential loads were 7kw. This was on an overcast day with very little solar available and batteries were not discharging because of the time of use I had set up. On a clear day, I’ve seen it push the generation to 6.5kw. 5.5 from the built in mppt and another 1000w from the micro inverter on gen port.
  14. I am not really sure. I’m almost complete with my second inverter. Just need some final wiring and then request a firmware update. I know that you can only have 1 generator but not sure if the other can be set as an output or if both need to match. Maybe a good idea to check with sunsynk support.
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