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Everything posted by Vassen

  1. Either increase the temperature of the hot water you store in the geyser or add another geyser inline with the first and use that as a storage Tank.
  2. There’s lots of strange things about the deye / sunsynk brand / operation. they share the same r&d, factory, local support but different interface and brand. They do have a nice product though.
  3. Okay. Let us know how it works out. Buy some chocolates or something your wife likes and keep it just in case you need to make up for no hot water.
  4. So the purpose of a fuse in this case is to protect the cable. If you have 6mm cable, depending on where /how it is installed is able to handle between 30A and 50A. 30A is in a tightly installed area with no ventilation and 50A being on a cable tray with lots of airflow. The fuse needs to match the cable. If the cable is not adequate, you need to run another cable in parallel or go for a big cable size. Why did the installer replace the ac isolator with another ac isolator when clearly a dc isolator is needed. have you checked the connections are fine and there is no loose
  5. Hi. for 1, if it’s a 4kw element, it will use 4kw. It’s basically a resistor and a resistor connected across a voltage... in this case 240v, will result in 4kw being used. I would recommend changing it to a 2kw element. It’s relatively cheap and straightforward to do and your inverter will be able to handle the loads a lot easier. It will obviously take a little longer to heat the water though. For 2, you should rather move the heatpump over to the essential or aux side and then keep the geyser at max temperature on a timer so that it only comes on during the day at max sol
  6. Yours doesn’t even mention the AC Pass Through.
  7. So what happens if there’s no sun for 2 or 3 days. Cold showers? I get what you are saying though. It can work if you are able to remember to manually override but if you donot have any way of knowing how hot / cold the water is, how do you judge whether to override or not.
  8. Will let you know next week sometime when I get my new 1 if there’s any difference. Strange that sunsynk don’t have uniform stickers though.
  9. Hmm. I don’t think this is doable with a hybrid inverter. I think you would need to use a grid tie, it just makes it simpler and a lot cheaper. But bear in mind you could end up with similar issues that I’m having with my micro inverter. Okay wait, you don’t care about the feedback so it will actually be fine for you.
  10. It depends on if your load wires are going to a earth leakage. Then you can’t mix your neutrals as the current will not be the same in the live and neutral and the earth leakage will trip. this brings another problem into the equation, as technically you would need a seperate dB for the aux loads with its own earth leakage. Otherwise your aux loads don’t have any earth leakage protection. Everything in my home is connected to earth leakages but I think sans only requires certain equipment to be connected to it. The geyser it not 1 of them, but I’m not 100% sure.
  11. It’s a little confusing for me too especially seeing that if you look at the sticker, it’s grouped under standalone mode. My understanding has been that it’s the max the inverter can pass though from grid to load. Don’t know how this is split between load and aux though if aux is set to always on. Doesn’t necessarily mean that the output can be 5.5kw + 8.4kw. I’ve seen my AC load for able 7kw but not the load.
  12. This is what my sticker looks like. Bit different.
  13. I guess it depends on which situation you are in and whether you have the always on enabled or not. with grid connected, I think that aux has the lowest priority if always on is is disabled. That’s how it was originally intended, to dump excess when batteries are charged. with the always on, it changes it a bit and the aux then becomes like an essential loads 2. Then during off grid mode, aux still has power until a certain soc. why do u want to move the geyser to aux though. Unless you have more than 1 geyser, you could end up with no hot water. It makes more sen
  14. My 2 cents of things to consider. Firstly, your calculations seem correct but you are assuming that the battery will definitely charge everyday to max capacity. A few days of lots of cloud cover, and you may end up with an issue. The worst possible thing is you spend 5k on a battery and it lasts 1 year because it was drained too much. I If you are just using lights, then there’s no point converting to AC and then back to DC since the leds use DC anyway. So it’s best to connect the light directly to the battery with a 12V DC daylight switch. The other aspect to
  15. Okay. So that’s 6mm wire. That should actually be fine as you current at peak is around 23A. I would check all connection that they are properly. you need to get rid of the ac isolator and replace with a proper dc rated one. All combiner boxes I’ve seen include the surge protectors. The surge protector and dc isolators are the most expensive which is probably why the installer decided to leave it out.
  16. Does the axpert have its own solar panels? With my personal experience with the aux input, it’s a bit troublesome at times. I’m currently using it with a microinverter and I’m in the process of getting rid of the microinverter and getting another 5kw in parallel. My issue is that the power from the microinverter sometimes feeds into the grid. If I enable microinverter zero export, then it often just throttles the output of the microinverter. I guess you can check with sunsynk support. Why not just move everything over to the sunsynk and sell the axpert and battery. That’s what I w
  17. It may not be so straightforward. Remember the axpert is an off grid inverter. To use the sunsynk aux as an input, it requires a grid tie inverter. With a grid tie the frequency / phase is matched to the host. The axpert may not be able to match its frequency to the sunsynk which may create issues. I still don’t understand why you want to use both inverters or if your loads are on the axpert, why do you want to use the aux an input
  18. Hi. How are the panels connected. 3s3p or? the cable should have a mm rating on it, either 4 or 6 or if you really lucky 10. where / how are the strings combined as there’s just 1 set of cables in that dB. I see you also don’t have a set of surge protectors for the panels. lastly, the isolator looks like a normal ac isolator. You need to use a dc isolator.
  19. Would be good to ask your installer what the purpose of installing the ct in the current location is.... and to provide the theory behind it, not just his own minds concoction. If you are using just the load side of the inverter, then the ct is not really needed.
  20. Yes. It does. When the grid is present it will feed back to the non essential loads. When grid fails, solar can be used ONLY for the essential loads. It will actually even use battery to power the non essential loads as long as grid is present. Sorry, I don’t understand why you would want to install it after the non essential loads and before the inverter. What’s the benefit of this. okay, I just read your original post again. If your installer installed it just before the inverter and after the non essential loads, then this should be changed. You are basically only using
  21. As other’s have said, software versions should be identical. I have 1 question though, are you sure the normal led flashes. I’ve never seen this before. Mines either solid on or off
  22. Sorry your response is a bit confusing. The ct coil needs to be installed on the main incoming line before the non essential loads. If the grid goes down, then nothing is fed back into the non essential loads. It’s only the load side of the inverter, also known as the essential loads that gets power. in my opinion, when the grid is present, whether you are powering the essential or non essential loads from solar, makes no difference. The excess is still either coming from grid or battery. You can prioritize whether you want to use the solar to charge batteries or
  23. https://www.rubiconsa.com/products/pv-adbp4-s2-6-female-mc4-panel-mnt-4-6mm Maybe check with rubicon. Don’t think it’s needs to be the exact same, just needs to be a panel mount. Worst case, just use a normal connector and leave it hanging out the bottom
  24. I started off with Canadians. Got 6x 420w poly panels on one string. They were good. Got around 90% of the rated power. I haven’t tried jinko, but on my 2nd string, I went with 8x 390w JA mono panels. Also get around 90% but this does increase slightly at times. I guess it also depends on the mppt that you are using but at the end of the day, I would go with the lowest price per watt of a tier 1 panel, it considering mounting costs as well.
  25. so depending on the color of the roof sheeting, if it’s dark grey the you could also go with black framed solar panels. Think JA make them. That way the panels are hardly visible.
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