Yellow Measure

Just checked again, mine is all good.

Mine works fine on V4.5.8 https://portal.riotsystems.cloud/dashboard

Congratulations @Gefahrlich

/orders popcorn

@Keith Gough recently released this training video on common problems with RCDs / RCBOs. And at 11H00 he covers "Do you need an earth rod"? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35RqpeenO7g

Hager, but the cost is reflective of the quality.

A listing given to me by a trusted advisor some 2 years ago, feedback (if any) would be appreciated: Fence Erect Alistair 083-377-2436 /011-463-3645 Fix & Fit Security Andre 082-552-7152 /011-708-2766 Netcomm JP or Justin 082-568-0366 /083-256-4776 Security Express Mark Rondi 082-857-3077 /011-794-5306

Without a doubt, and especially because the OP wants to get solar power in future, I would opt for the Solis S6 5K and a 5.1kWh Magneto battery from Powerforumstore, comes to 44K. It's way advanced in terms of features, functionality and capacity, so far more expandable. Alternatively, swop the 5.1kWh Magneto for the 9.6kWh Magneto, it's a steal at R39,965.

That's so sad, sounds like you are fortunate to be alive, and this from trusted personal referrals. I hope that your folks and brother have had their systems reviewed too. I hope that forumites will benefit from your experience, and use it to properly vet potential installers. It's not good enough to just get a word of mouth referral from a layperson, I would strongly suggest that people actually do physical visits of reference sites, inspect everything and ask to see the paperwork, before committing a deposit.

Give Steve a call tomorrow, he can tell you about the AC coupling and frequency shifting features of the Solis, it should complement your setup quite well.

There are many factors to consider, the panels' specifications, those of the MPPT, temperature data for the past 10-20 years, and the panels' orientation (tilt and azimuth). The only way to make sense of it all is to start a spreadsheet, then follow the steps in this guide: https://unboundsolar.com/blog/string-sizing-guide

Congratulations @Gefahrlich !

Very impressive!

Want to share your story?

Powerforumstore. They have the 5K Sunsynk, but you may want to ask them about the 5 / 6K Solis as well, more accomplished, better support and far cheaper.

www.retailenergy.co.za If poor reviews on consumer review sites aren't enough: https://www.hellopeter.com/retail-energy-pty-ltd then take a look at the site itself, no prizes for spotting the tell-tale signs: 1. Crazy cheap pricing: If it seems too good to be true, it probably is. 2. Sense of urgency: The site makes you feel that you must act with urgency, on the spur of the moment, without thinking things through properly, otherwise known as Fear Of Missing Out (FOMO). Be cautious out there friends.

Does the Solis S6 support Home Assistant and other home automation integrations?

This is excellent news! @Keith Gough this is great support from a manufacturer.

Jason! Jason! Jason!

This is quite heartening, I hope that Sunsynk takes note and improves their service.

/furiously starts researching Constant Voltage Controllers

There are typically two components: The meter itself which sits in a tamper proof box, usually on the street, and the UI (user interface) with a keypad, which is plugged into a socket. The meter itself does not turn off when there are no units left. The UI is powered by 240V, but usually has a 9V battery (as explained by @RoganDawes )which allows the user to enter a code, and transmit that code via PLC to the meter, even when units are depleted. Your UI probably has a flat battery, or perhaps you tried to load credits when there was load shedding (and the meter was therefore unavailable). Change it, and you should be able to use it. The "trick" of going to a neighbour addresses yet another but different problem, which is that the PLC (Power Line Communications) are usually quite weak, and subject to interference. If this is the problem, then you should try to plug the UI into a plug point that is closest to the meter, and not use a multi-adapter between the socket and the UI. Also, if you have an inverter, it will interfere with the communications, so choose any plug socket that bypasses the inverter or that is directly wired to the grid. In most inverter installs with prepaid meters, the installer will install a dedicated socket for the UI to plug into.

That's actually wierd, because the Sunsynk manual states F58 is a Grid Current High fault:

The gap between panels isn't a biggie, the gap underneath the panels (between panel and roof) is actually more important for cooling.

Response in line above, in bold.