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Tariq

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Tariq last won the day on August 25 2020

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  1. a colleague has the 5 kW Sunsynk and has the high pitched noise issue, can even hear it iemanating from his clothing iron, has not figured it out yet, the family has sort of gotten used to it
  2. As @Vassensaid, mine is mounted in the scullery, right off the kitchen, the fan is not bad at all, sort of a high pitched noise, it only comes on when I have loads over 3 kW and does not stay on all the time the load is over 3 kW
  3. Correction, talked to Jaco, looks like I simplified it too much, you CANNOT cross AC and DC wires unless unless they are in separate trunking or sprague is what I meant to say
  4. Jaco De Jongh had once told me that it is ok to cross ac and dc wiring ( @Jaco De Jongh, please correct me if I am wrong)
  5. When pv does not reach 2 kW ( my element is 2 kW) on a cloudy day to activate the Smart Load function, I then tick the “Aways On Grid”, then it works the same as an essential circuit.
  6. For example, in an automobile ( as far as I know), there are fuses in only the positive supply wires and not in the negative, is it because pretty much the whole car is the negative side.
  7. Guys, correct me if I am wrong, i don't see why you can't use the microwave during load shedding with TWO 3.5 kWh batteries I use a 1650 watt microwave with two 2.4 kWh batteries during load shedding, only difference is I have a 5 kW Sunsynk, but that should not be a factor anyway. @BGb, you mentioned the wires getting hot to the touch ???
  8. I have the Sunsynk 5 kW inverter with two Pylontech 2.4 KWh batteries, they are each listed at 25 amps for a total of 50 amps, my microwave draws 1650 watts and never had a problem with the system tripping, I have seen the system draw up to 48 amps from the batteries. Only time I had a system shut down was on a rainy day and load shedding, where the wife turned on BOTH the microwave and kettle at the same time, and as when the load was switched off the system reset it self
  9. Hi @Pren, I connected the live and neutral from the geyser directly to the AUX port ( through a circuit breaker ), set the solar threshold at 2250 watts ( 2 kW geyser and 250 watt general morning household loads ) and battery soc range 55 % ON and 50% OFF, the system works as designed, comes on when the two conditions are met, if it is a partly cloudy day the system switches on and off depending on pv production. You can override the system by using “ Always on grid” , if it is a cloudy day and you need to manually power up the geyser, the system will utilize whatever pv is available
  10. At this stage Eskom ( according to my calculations) is cheaper than batteries,
  11. 1) Probably due to price as compared to Citel 2) On my 9.47 amp panels I have 12 amp fuses ( 125 % ), that is what I was told to use
  12. @Levan, for the pv combiner box, you will need 4 fuse holders ( or two double pole DC circuit breakers ), two double pole isolaters and two DC surge protectors plus a box, so look at the total price and compare it to a ready made combiner box, usually the home made is cheaper.
  13. the Hagar SFT240 is a good quality changeover switch
  14. @Achmat, do you, on a partly sunny day, use your batteries to supplement the constantly changing solar production or do you use the grid, meaning does continuously letting the batteries charge/discharge during the day hurt the battery SOH.
  15. During partly cloudy days when solar production varies constantly, do you let the battery act as a buffer constantly charging /discharging or do you let the grid act as the buffer, any pros and cons
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