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Bernardf

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    Centurion, Gauteng

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  1. Yes I can't wait for that new dongle. No more walking to the inverter to change settings like a cave man, haha!
  2. Sounds like you basically need a mini version of this setup: https://www.freedomwon.co.za/freedom-won-powering-the-future/
  3. I have one 8kW Sunsynk with the same battery. The battery came with a terminator for the second network port. My installer mentioned something along the lines of that he had to make up a custom network cable to be able to use the supplied terminator plug. My suggestion is to contact the Freedom Won support and ask them what to do for your specific setup.
  4. In my case it only comes from the inverter.
  5. I have also had the same problem with the high frequency noise on an 8kW unit. My previous unit at my previous residence was a 5kW unit that I used for about a year, which did not give this noise. When I got my new 8kW in May 2021 at my new residence, I had it installed in the scullery. The high frequency noise was barely audible to my installer because it is around 15,000Hz, but to me it is so loud that I could hear it from 10 metres away, and spending 10 minutes in the scullery doing dishes left me with my ears feeling physical discomfort for an hour or so afterwards. After I had run the system for 2 days, I asked the installer to take the unit back to be assessed by tech support, and he was informed by someone (I'm not sure who he spoke to, I think it might have been Shabir from Sunsynk support, not sure...) that they will not swop out the unit because that is just how the Sunsynks sound, and chances are good that if they give me another unit it will be even louder. I then had to pay my installer another installation fee to move the whole setup outside the house, which was another 2 days' work. I was quite disappointed in the supplier for not swopping out the unit. So to anyone considering a Sunsynk, put it in the garage or outside the house, as the high frequency noise seems to be the luck of the draw. (EDIT: I had the software upgraded, which did not make a difference)
  6. I don't know which version exactly. I got it in May 2020 and it had the old user interface. I only upgraded the software in January 2021 just before selling the house.
  7. Then maybe something has changed on the newer models. At my old house I had a 5kW installed about a year ago. All plugs and lights were on the load side, and stove & geyser were before the inverter (i.e. they were off when there was load shedding). If I ran my tumble dryer (3.2kW), dishwasher (2kW) and kettle (2kW) at the same time, the inverter would beep at me, turn off all power, and restart with the AC_Overload_Fault. I fell victim to this about 4 times before learning to check when my wife was busy with the tumble dryer. For that reason my new install at my new house is the 8kW version, because I don't want to be worrying about using appliances concurrently.
  8. Just to be clear, you can't run more than the inverter's rated power (5,500W) on appliances that are on the essential loads output. If you have stuff connected before the inverter (aka non-essential), and your CT is correctly installed, the inverter will show this as a load on its screen. For instance if you have a kettle on an essential plug circuit pulling 2kW, and a geyser + stove that is on the non-essential side pulling 5kW, the inverter will show a load of 7kW, and the inverter will have no problem with this. But if you try to pull more than 5.5kW on the essential side, the inverter will trip with the 'AC overload' error, and reset itself, even if Eskom power is on.
  9. Slightly off topic, but related to crypto mining. If the only thing on battery backup is the crypto mining rig, it could be justified to deduct the depreciation of the inverter and battery from the income declared to SARS, because the power system's costs relate directly to the generation of the taxable income, therefore reducing your income tax payable. But if the whole house is on backup, it is a bit of a grey area what portion of the expenses you could deduct. What are you guys' thoughts?
  10. Hi guys. I am moving to a new house and found this mysterious device mounted next to the electricity meter. Can anyone tell me what it is and what it does? It says Zellweger Uster ZE 22/1 on the case.
  11. Hi guys. I am planning to install a Sunsynk at my new house (had one at the old house). Does anyone know whether this specific model of prepaid Hexing split meter is known to trip with incidental grid feed-in?
  12. I managed to load the units by bridging the batteries.
  13. Yes it is plugged in. But seeing as though the power is off, it doesn't seem to help. When the prepaid credit runs out on one of these and the power is cut off as a result, how is it then possible to reload credit if the unit needs power to operate?
  14. I bought a house and I need some advice on getting the electricity connected. The previous owner had tenants renting, and the tenants vacated the premises about 2 weeks ago. I got access today, but there is no power. There seems to be a prepaid meter installed. I haven't seen the actual meter and I have no idea where it is situated, but there is a prepaid meter control unit lying on the kitchen counter. The prepaid meter control unit is off, I am assuming because the power is off. I have never before seen or worked with a prepaid meter so I don't know what to do. I see the meter has a battery compartment, but the lid is missing so the batteries would not make contact. Would it work if I put batteries in and jumped the poles with some wire? Or is there some sort of process I have to follow at the municipality to get the power connected? Any guidance will be appreciated.
  15. It was quite easy. You don't need to remove it from the wall. There are 2 screws on the front, hidden behind plastic plugs. I removed the plugs with sticky tape, and opened up the front part of the enclosure. Then the circuit board is attached to the rear part of the enclosure with 4 screws. The cable can be unplugged from the circuit board. The battery was a very tight fit to get out and in. I suspect that the battery holder that is attached to the circuit board might have been designed for a CR1220 instead of a CR1225. The only difference is that the CR1220 is 2mm thick while the CR1225 is 2.5mm thick. I got a CR1225 from Builders Warehouse for R30. Makro and Chamberlain only had CR1220's.
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