Cassie

Hi Coulomb, Thanks for the feedback. I remember you asked for the firmware version(s) on my friends inverter. But I'm not sure about what I supplied you with, because the numbers above doesn't match even close what you are talking in your message (version 41.08 and 91.20). Or am I reading it wrongly

hi Coulomb, This is from a previous post of mine regarding this problem: Hi Coulomb, I managed to get you the firmware versions. I took shots of it. The secondary CPU version is : 00002.40 and the Main CPU version is: 00041.14 and the Secondary Bluetooth version is: 00000.24 I included some photos of the screen (at this post:

My friend experiencing this problem since his system (Kodak VMIII and 2 Pylon's US3000) was installed about 4 mnths ago, and it is very frustrating. I enquired regarding this issue before and have just searched the forum, but it doesn't look like their is a final solution yet. Or am I wrong? Will the application of a Raspberry Pi and ICC be the answer to manage the system and prevent this annoying problem?

I'm busy planning the installation of my PV panels. Can I feed the 4 strings of PV cable through the same hole in the kitchen wall, which currently housing 3x AC cables (garage db, gate motor and to heat pump). I'm planning to route the 4 DC strings through a 40mm PVC tube to keep them separate from the AC cables. But is that enough isolation and acceptable? Your advice will be very helpfull, I don't want to spend a lot of energy to create another hole. Thanks!

Not grid-tied. Well the installation was just completed and an additional Pylontech US3000 was added, so maybe it is the charging of the batteries - can that be the case? This measurement is from what can be seen on the inverter at a specific moment - not a kWh reading.

6 in series and 2 parallel strings

It's the Kodak VMiii Axpert 48v 450v MPPT. Panels are 6 is serie, 2 strings.

How many watts should 12x 370W MONO panels with full sun, at 12:00 more or less deliver? I'm getting only 500w, that surely can't be correct?

Does any members have experience/knowledge of the following BSL batteries. And about the statements made in the images regarding Pylontech batteries

Hi Richard, If I can buy another Pylontech US3000 for what I can get for the inverter plus the Enermax+ smart meter and 2x home managers, I'll be happy. You can contact me directly at [email protected] I noticed the Pylontech's is now R19 000 at Solar & Inverter Warehouse.

I need information on how to change/(add-on) a Sunnyboy 3kW grid-tied inverter into an off-grid inverter. Or shall I just swop it for an off-grid inverter (if anybody is interested). I also have the smart meter (Enermax+) that's currently installed with it.

Ok thanks Gerrie, going to try it Hi Gerrie, I changed it but didn't change back to Pyl. We left it on user (2 days ago) just to see how the inverter and pylon behave. So far it's going perfect, the inverter behave itself (not trying to charge continuously) and the battery displays 52.9 - 53.1V.

Hi Coulomb, I managed to get you the firmware versions. I took shots of it. The secondary CPU version is : 00002.40 and the Main CPU version is: 00041.14 and the Secondary Bluetooth version is: 00000.24

Hi Coulomb, I will see my friend in the near future again (maybe next week end), then I will check on the firmware for you. Sorry I'm not so familiar with all the techno language yet and how to get it. The Kodak VM III is completely new to me.

Ok thanks Gerrie, going to try it

Thanks Gerrie, when you change it back to Pyl (after the changes to the charge settings) didn't the charge settings jumped back to the Pyl charge settings again or did it stay as you changed it?

Thanks. I understood (when it was bought by a friend of mine) that for this Inverter one did not need to us the ICC +Pi. But surely it's not handling the Pyl correctly. I have 2 Axperts in parallel and running it smoothly with ICC + Pi.

Yes as said before I used the direct BMS cable. The Kodak is set on Pyl, the battery is fully charged all the green Leds are on and the inverter shows 53.1v - but the inverter is keep on charging like it's trying to constantly pushing current to the battery because, I presume. it thinks the battery is not yet fully charged. What must I do because on pr. 5 it's set on Pyl (as said before) and that disable me from changing the Charge- and/or the Float voltages. ? Plase help we are worried that we can damage the battery, or will the BMS of the Pylontech prevents that? Thanks

Thanks Jaco, It looks like that is what the Pylontech guy (in your previous comment) is also suggesting. Did you see my last night comment on your post of 2018 regarding battery tools?

Hi Coulomb, Is "equalise" charge the same as "Float charge". How do you set it up to charge only for 2 - 3 days and for a certain time period? Is it done on the Raspberry? Second question; is it advisable to change my newest Pylontech to be the master (see phil.g00's comment)? The older Pylontech is currently the master.

Thanks phil.g00, Should I change the newer one to be the master The older one did have 3 cycles, and when I added the new one, ICC still displayed 3 cycles. If I changed it and make the new one the master, will ICC then change the cycle back to 0 ?

Thanks Coulomb, I noticed in Batteries, under the thread about this problem, you suggested that one must change setting 27 to 51.8v, and leaving setting 26 at 53.2v. We're going to try it. Thanks

Hi Jaco, I might be very late. See your post dated back to 2018/08/22 But I want to tell you about my experience with battery tools. First one (2006) was also a 12v Ryobi ni-cad or something like that. Wow! very impressed the first week, second week not so good, third week it was flat when I reached the top notch/step of the ladder - then it was ignored. Second drill about 2 years later a Ryobi 18v again ni-cad or something like that. Thought it would be better after 2 years, new technology etc. - but the same story. I realised then that battery tools are just rubbish. Then visited my son in Canada in 2014 and noticed that he's got some impressive battery tools. A drill and an impact driver, both 20v Lithium Ion. I really couldn't believe the power and the extended period of usage on a charge. And the impact driver and the Canadian square-hole screws were just an eye opener for me. I immediately went to Home Depot and could only afford a Black&Decker 20v Lithium Iron combination set. It had the one motor with 2 slide-in chucks. One for drilling and one for impact-driving. I came back with it and it is still as strong as the day I bought it back in 2014. In 2016, I again visited my children in Canada and US and bought a combo DeWalt 20v (Lith iron) set for my other son in South Africa (he build wooden houses and decks in Limpopo). A complete drill and impact driver with brushless motors for less than what the DeWalt 18v (Lith Ion) non-brushles drill only, in South Africa costs. Only 18v Lith ion tools were/are available in South Africa until I walked into ACDC last year and saw on promotion a ACDC branded 20v Lith ion drill and impact driver on promotion. I bought both for under R 2000 and also bought another impact driver for my son in Limpopo. And I must say these ACDC branded models are very impressive, my son compared it with his DeWalt tools and said his first choice when building is the ACDC impact driver. To conclude: I still have the old 18v Ryobi, but is going to use it as the driving mechanism (powered by a 20v DC transformer) for my remotely controlled pet door, and lastly I've dumped all flat and star screws in the dustbin - have only a variation square hole screws in stock in my little tool room. Thanks to Lithium ion batteries, battery tools are now an essential part of my arsenal !

I now have 2 Pylontech US3000 batteries on 2x Axpert inverters in parallel with a Raspberry Pi and CCT monitoring program. They performing very well without any problems since I installed the first one in the beginning of June and the second one end of July. This past weekend the red "ALM" led light on the master battery appeared. I rebooted the whole system and the "ALM" red led was gone. Then about 2 days later it was back again - after another reboot it was gone again. At the moment the system just performs as a UPS. No PV panels installed yet. I assume "ALM" represents "an alarm mode". Is this something serious or is it an indication that the battery bank is only in stand by mode?

It is a friend's inverter I helped installing it. Yes there was a cable with the Kodak for direct connection. And after I selected "pyl" as battery typed basically everything important was automatically set. Only one thing is bothering me. After about an hour the inverter's alarm starting beeping and inverter displays Fault 69. I phoned the supplier and he assured me it's not a a fault, its only the battery that is busy stabilising and that it could take 2 - 3 days. Have other members also experiencing the same thing?