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ThatGuy

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ThatGuy last won the day on April 7

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  1. Hahaha, ah... No. No no, no, I don't think so, no I don't want to say your supplier is a liar who's trousers should be at least smoldering a bit... But at the very least they should explain to you why the inverter datasheet says 60-145V, before they tell you to spend more money to "fix" this issue. The 125V you've reported is because the SCC shut down (open circuit), it's not the other way around. Your normal operating voltage seems to be 95-105V, which is great. You could ask them if they'll give you a guarantee that changing to 2S will fix it though... bet them another inverter if
  2. @Bushtracker Don't worry too much about it, I'd just monitor it and if it becomes more frequent or causes a definite problem then talk to your supplier about swapping the unit out. It seems to just be a symptom of a manufacturer who does just the bare minimum to ensure that their firmware supports all the features they claim in the marketing material, without actually testing it before release... Unfortunately for us, the price is just too good for these inverters! Generally, I think they're worth the few small headaches they cause @Coulomb My apologies, I didn't register that you said "
  3. It all makes sense again - thanks!
  4. I thought the charging-mode threshold was around 2.0V, not 4.0V... In hindsight I guess 2V wouldn't make any sense since the inverters are tailored to lead-acid batteries. This information changes my understanding a bit (In that now I realise that I didn't actually understand it ). Why would the inverter switch to absorb on my 1C lithium packs that can source over 340A for 0.1s before the BMS disconnects - it seems to me that I should never get the 4V drop that would be required for charging state change. I've never seen it drop more than max 2V, but obviously the inverter samples the vol
  5. Remember that as Coulomb said above - the inverter only starts limiting output through SCC at 130V. So although it would be "even more better" to go 2S, operating as you currently are at 95-100V definitely won't hurt anything. The 123-124V you're seeing is NOT operating voltage, since the SCC has shut down at this point and is basically open-circuit, and even this voltage is within limits. However if you do end up changing and it solves the problem, please do let us know! As long a it buys you piece of mind, the extra cost of a few wires and fuses might well be worth it Mine are
  6. Hi All Just a note that complete PV loss like this also happens to me on my RCT King 5kVA. It doesn't appear to be related to temperature since I've had it both on hot and cold days, but it's always when there's a reasonable load on the system. I also have my panels wired 3S and my operating voltage is more than Bushtracker shows, usually around 110-115V. It seems to be a few second shutdown that happens when the inverter switches from float back to absorb. My assumption is that it only happens under load, because if there's a brief drop in solar input (cloud or something) then the l
  7. @gooseberry People here are adamant that you should spend at least double what you were planning to, so my suggestion is to just become rich and buy Tesla... yes, the whole company, why not? It'll definitely solve your problem, but also not in the way that you asked Just an observation: You might want to over-spec your SSR's slightly if you're using them for critical switching. Not sure the 12A model you linked to will be up to the task. Bearing in mind that the MOSFET types fail open (do they still do this? ). Just remember that you can end up getting more out of your panels tha
  8. @Bl4d3 When you say "flicker" do you mean they constantly flash on and off, or is it a quick flick as the heat bed turns on? Assuming you mean continuous flashing and that you have a SSR being PWM'd to maintain temperature, then a quick/cheap fix may also be to just increase or decrease the PWM frequency of the printer controller. Maybe you're just at the perfect frequency to get some weird electrical resonance between your lights and the printer, if it's only the printer that causes this issue. A google search will tell you how to do this for your particular printer. A hardware EMI filte
  9. No problem, will send directly. Do you still live at 420 Nevergonnahappen Lane, Crazytown, USA?
  10. Hope so! We should all get together and make our own SA test report... I'm sure there are plenty of people on this forum with the expertise and experience with all the battery makes who could give us general warranty claims data for the batteries they've installed. I'd love to see what the data actually says, since EVERY supplier I've talked to has claimed that their batteries "have sold thousands and never had a return"
  11. To add 2 cents to this conversation: It should be made clear that the AU testing was on the US2000B Pylontech, and even then only a few (one?) units, so it's not clear to me if this trend can be extended to all models in the Pylontech lineup. We can always hope, because hopefully they use the same cells in all their products and hopefully it hasn't changed since they started testing a few years ago, and hopefully it's the same for all markets (AU and SA), but unfortunately hoping won't make it true without actual data... At least the Pylontechs are reasonably well established in the mark
  12. Great - I'll be interested to know the outcome! It might make the Max very attractive for people just wanting to offset their power usage a bit and not necessarily have a backup supply.
  13. Interesting... Of course given Voltronic's reputation with firmware, you now have to play the exciting game of "Is This A Bug Or A Feature" Any guesses? If I read some of the other threads on the Max, it seems like the newest firmware has just disabled SUB mode and switches directly to bypass when using grid to stop the inverter feeding back (or possibly to improve efficiency of transfer). Could be a related issue, since I imagine if they've done this it must complicate the whole process of when it's necessary/reasonable to shut down the inverter...
  14. Coming back to this topic, because I still haven't found a decent answer... The suppliers of the panels don't seem to know either! Is there any reason to pay the premium for mono cells and get a "more efficient" panel, even though the poly cell panel can produce more overall power? Is it a physical size issue: IE - A mono cell panel of the same power will always be smaller than the poly panel due to better efficiency, so you're paying the premium for minor saving on roof space? Or do the mono panels last measurably longer than the poly (even though they have the same warr
  15. Mafia style is the best style, 10/10 agree with @Brani
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