NigelL

What I found useful was to connect a small transformer-type power supply to the circuit. These usually have a DC resistance that can easily be identified using a multimeter. This should be noticeably different to other normal loads.
One then connects the multimeter between live (trip switch is off!!!) and neutral bar. Then disconnect the neutrals until the resistance suddenly increases.

The incoming phases all are referenced to a common neutral, however each Earth Leakage device requires its own separate neutral bar for all devices connected "down stream" of the E/L unit.  As Johan mentioned, one can have an "interesting time sorting it all out". Especially if one has an older house where the electrics have been extended by multiple parties over the years.
The real fun starts when you have two circuits, that need to be separated, and they have a shared neutral wire in some well-hidden junction box.

This looks good, but a couple of comments.
Phase 2 will probably need its own Earth Leakage. Keep in mind that you will need a separate Neutral Bar for each Earth Leakage unit, and another "common" Neutral Bar. These all take up space in the DB so plan accordingly. I ended going for a 4 x 18 Board - with one row just used for Neutral Bars. I only wired a small number of plugs to the "Essential" loads circuit so that one does not risk tripping the Inverter, with high-power devices, during a mains outage. e.g TV, Internet, Security system, Fridge etc.  

Thanks sir. I can see this cable is going to be a challenge to work with good thing my trunking is big enough. When they brought it around didn't think it was for me... My eyes popped out when the sales guy said this is yours sir 

Have you tried ARB Electrical Wholesalers? They appear to have branch in Pretoria East.
I purchased a roll of 10mm^2 from their Cape Town branch.  Just be aware that this cable is quite heavy and tough to work with, especially if you are trying to route it through narrow conduit! 

I still have the "other" 2 phases connected to some "high-power" loads (air-con, some plugs etc.) that do not get used very often. In summer I was only using about 10kWh per week from Eskom. Now that we are heading into winter, this has increased to about 20kWh/week 🙂

Normal residential 3-phase electricity meters will correctly record total power usage even if you only use power on a single phase. It is recommended to divide the circuits/loads across the 3 phases so that there would be roughly the same load on each phase if all circuits/loads were in use, but in practice one never uses all loads at the same time.
I have a 3-phase supply but many of the houses in our street have a single phase supply. It looks like they try and balance things out by connecting houses, with single-phase supplies, roughly evenly across the phases.  We have had a couple of occasions where one phase has been down and only a few houses in the street were affected.
I have also installed my system on a single phase and have not run into any issues.
EDIT: The municipality generally wants the maximum possible current drawn on each phase to be roughly equal. It does not matter if you are currently using a relatively low un-balanced current.

Normal residential 3-phase electricity meters will correctly record total power usage even if you only use power on a single phase. It is recommended to divide the circuits/loads across the 3 phases so that there would be roughly the same load on each phase if all circuits/loads were in use, but in practice one never uses all loads at the same time.
I have a 3-phase supply but many of the houses in our street have a single phase supply. It looks like they try and balance things out by connecting houses, with single-phase supplies, roughly evenly across the phases.  We have had a couple of occasions where one phase has been down and only a few houses in the street were affected.
I have also installed my system on a single phase and have not run into any issues.
EDIT: The municipality generally wants the maximum possible current drawn on each phase to be roughly equal. It does not matter if you are currently using a relatively low un-balanced current.

This reminds me of the "New Model Toaster" development. It's a real classic 😀
See http://robnugen.com/writing/old/funny_classics/new_toaster.html
 

This reminds me of the "New Model Toaster" development. It's a real classic 😀
See http://robnugen.com/writing/old/funny_classics/new_toaster.html
 

This is how a software developer feels when they finish a piece of software and the customer goes... "Just one small change, can you add XXX". Not wanting to break the entire beautiful design, you then attempt to make just a few holes here and there and thread through the bit the customer wants. Three years down the line, there are so many little changes and bolt-ons that you want to throw the whole thing away and start over... but now it runs everywhere and you have to support it...

One can achieve a neat installation using trunking that has an internal divider to separate AC and DC cabling. This does not provide any EMI/noise protection between cables but does give suitable electrical isolation/separation.  One must however plan the installation so that the AC and DC sides remain separated along the full route.
AC-DC stock a 110x50mm Trunking - see https://www.efapel.pt/en/products/cable-trunkings/10-series-distribution-cable-trunkings

One can achieve a neat installation using trunking that has an internal divider to separate AC and DC cabling. This does not provide any EMI/noise protection between cables but does give suitable electrical isolation/separation.  One must however plan the installation so that the AC and DC sides remain separated along the full route.
AC-DC stock a 110x50mm Trunking - see https://www.efapel.pt/en/products/cable-trunkings/10-series-distribution-cable-trunkings

Here is a brilliant example of some of the Engrish

 
This is on their SEMS portal, that looks very swanky.

I opted for 3 x 16A NoArk Double-Pole breakers (one for each PV string) since the breakers apparently have a more accurately controlled trip threshold than fuses. I then have a 40A NoArk Double-Pole breaker as an overall DC disconnect.
 The nice thing about these breakers is that they do not appear to mind opening or closing them, even under full load.
I used the Citel "DS240S-130DC" surge protection which has a maximum DC Operating voltage of 180V. My reasoning was that this would clamp earlier than the 1000V version and hopefully protect more stuff from blowing up in case of a surge 😁 

Looking at it from what ever side you want to, but when you get an electrical bill for less than R5  you cant beat that warm fuzzy feeling. Especially when I hear people paying 4k to 6k per month. Never mind that chuckle you have with your solar buddies when load shedding is mentioned by others

I opted for 3 x 16A NoArk Double-Pole breakers (one for each PV string) since the breakers apparently have a more accurately controlled trip threshold than fuses. I then have a 40A NoArk Double-Pole breaker as an overall DC disconnect.
 The nice thing about these breakers is that they do not appear to mind opening or closing them, even under full load.
I used the Citel "DS240S-130DC" surge protection which has a maximum DC Operating voltage of 180V. My reasoning was that this would clamp earlier than the 1000V version and hopefully protect more stuff from blowing up in case of a surge 😁 

Seems this has gotten off topic a bit here...
I am posting the following to CoCT, please have a look an see if I missed anything that hasn't been answered in these posts. 
Sending this on Tuesday (2019/03/05):
1.       Various questions came through regarding more specific assistance from City of Cape Town. I believe I noted something similar in regard to the guidance document last week (updating this to be more accurate and specific). Is this currently being worked on at this time?
2.       On the previous communication there was more confusion than clarity on the following statement: “The generation capacity is declared in GEN/OFF-GRID and GEN/EMB”
·         I would like to go back to a practical example: If the Hybrid Inverter of 5kVA is installed with 3kW of PV modules, with battery back-up. What and how should this be reported on the forms and be understood?
                                                               i.      Would Gen/Off-Grid be 5kVA
                                                             ii.      Would GEN/EMB be 3kW
                                                           iii.      Will you be able to install this on a 60A breaker? (As I understand the section quoted the answer here is no, please verify)
3.       Change over switch (continued): You noted the following: “If the inverter don’t have a separate interlocked change-over switch compliant with Appendix 4, use the output of the inverter switch to automatically control the separate change-over switch, else operate manually”
·         Do you have practical examples of how this was implemented and with which inverters?
·         Both Victron and GoodWE ES does not have facility to communicate with an external change over / disconnect switch. Thus the unit will (<20ms) connect the “back-up” side of the inverter to battery back up (or in case of Victron it is permanently on “battery-mode”).
·         This would in effect result in non-compliance to the CoCT requirements?
·         Previously you noted the standards, but is there a practical way of actually doing this? The only change over switch configuration that can be implemented would be on the back-up side or grid-out side.
4.       For Installation (legacy / old) that exceed the NRS097-3 limits, how would a person proceed to get this signed off (example here: the correct approach for owners with existing systems with inverters exceeding the above limit is. A Goodwe GW5048D 4.6kW inverter with 4.4kW of PV and 20kWh battery capacity. The grid supply is single phase 60A with a prepaid meter ALSO 4.4kW Grid Tied on a 60A breaker)
·         In short how to approach CoCT if limits are exceeded, is there a way to get confirmation and acceptance?
5.       How does City of Cape Town define? [Very basic but it must be clarified]
·         Grid-tie
·         Grid connected
·         Hybrid
6.       In the requirements you refer to a Reverse Power Flow Relay, can you please define this as this is confused with reverse power flow blocking for purposes of not exporting (via internal Inverter / external CT measurements and curtailing the Embedded Generator).
7.       What is the average response time from CoCT from submitting (Step 1) to receiving a response (currently)

So about grid tie in Cape Town, I have 9KW of panels and 36KWH of storage. I had quite a few backwards and forwards emails from City of Cape Town and based on what they were saying and the charges involved grid tie does not seem viable and will end up costing money. (they also accused me of grid tie and flew a drone over my house - the meter reader got a digit wrong on the last meter read - they are now estimating my bill at rates including R3800 even though according to my actual meter reading I have used 62 units). (My neighbour had illegal grid tie and the comment from the inspector to him was they were going to get me next...)
For example: The R450 monthly charge, ok let's make it R450 - R130 (as we are paying that anyway) = R320 /66c (which is what COCT will pay you for your units) means you are having to give them 16 units a day just to cover the extra monthly charge. Now throw in the meter that is apparently going to cost about R12 000 plus the anti-islanding device (about R6000?) - which is not necessary on approved grid tie units but will be forced to have it anyway. Now in summer there is a good excess but in winter it will be a different story. (I have simplified things by not bringing in the tariffs for using - but it really does not make much difference)
So I have changed my system to try and use as much power as possible during the day but I still have about 4KW per hour that gets wasted every day...  Most days I am off grid, it is only occasionally that I switch back to the grid when my batteries hit the 70% mark (i.e. 30% used). I am powering the whole house and this is my third system (though first at this house). At my last house I tried a wind generator (as well as solar) but that was a complete waste of time.
So unless COCT dispense with the hardware costs and lower the monthly charge I can only assume most people will choose the off grid route...  

It took some time to work out the pros and cons of each of the above approaches.
Option 1: Assisted Loads connected to AC-OUT2.
Pros:
There is no need for any external current sensor or energy meter. The Multi-II uses it's internal current sensor to limit the Grid-Tied current to the programmed setting (i.e. it compensates for current used on both AC-OUT1 and AC-OUT2). Cons:
The total combined current of AC-OUT1 and AC-OUT2 loads is limited to the maximum input current on AC-IN (assuming the battery is very discharged). The recommended maximum input current is 32A. If you have to isolate the input to Multi to do repairs etc, you loose power to the AC-OUT2 loads as well as AC-OUT1 loads.  
Option 2: Assisted Loads connected to AC-Distribution Box.
Pros:
The current to the assisted loads is not limited by the Multi-II at all (32A total current limit does not apply). You can isolate the input of the Multi-II without affecting the Assisted loads. The external current sensor has the same performance as the internal current sensor so the system reacts very quickly to changing loads. The external sensor replaces the internal sensor when plugged in - so you only get a single "AC Loads" reading. Cons:
You need to purchase an extra current sensor (about R500). The current sensor has a 1m lead, so the Multi-II must be physically close to the current sensing point where the Assisted Loads combine with the AC-IN to the Multi. Victron states that one cannot extend the current sensor lead without running into problems (noise coupling into the low-level current-sensing signal).

The "extra effort" was mainly due to the Inverter being mounted some distance away from the Main DB, rather than the choice of wiring scheme.
It was certainly "extra effort" 🙂 . I ended up installing three 10mm^2 cables between the two DBs. I had to drill holes through thick hard-brick walls, route conduit through an existing cupboard into the roof space. All of this done during the December heat!
EDIT: The choice of 10mm^2 cables was for future-proofing. I really did not want to have to re-do any of this work again!

These diagrams do not look anything like my "MultiGrid-II-48V-3000-35-32". It only has a single set of M6 bolts for attaching the battery cables, and an M8 bolt for chassis ground. 
I made up my own "bus-bars" for combining the Battery, Inverter and MPPT connections. See an old photo of a "work in progress" which shows this 😀

I agree. This is my Multi ll. 
 

These diagrams do not look anything like my "MultiGrid-II-48V-3000-35-32". It only has a single set of M6 bolts for attaching the battery cables, and an M8 bolt for chassis ground. 
I made up my own "bus-bars" for combining the Battery, Inverter and MPPT connections. See an old photo of a "work in progress" which shows this 😀

This is most likely caused by the grid voltage dropping below the normal working threshold for the UPS. 
The voltage on one of my phases often drops below 200V in the early evening.  If it drops below 195V, my Multigrid-II disconnects from the grid and runs off the battery. This usually only lasts for a few minutes and then goes back to normal. It does make a noticable clicking noise when it recovers!
Getting back to TTT's problem, it would be useful to know if the grid voltage was outside a normal range when his fault occurred,