hoohloc

buddy! no need to be rude, and for you to be going around and avoiding to give one example of such an inverter tells me that your responses are based on assumptions. All inverters I have came across have ratings, I have never seen an unlimited or unrated blissful inverter. Again, educate me, I want to learn. After all we are all here to learn, right?

Grid-tie means you do not need a battery to power the inverter, the grid falls, your power gets cut. You inverter works without the need to use a battery. Where off-grid inverters rely on battery use, so when the grid falls, you still have power because you have batteries. Now, I'm still waiting for an example of an inverter that can power the load which is more than its rated capacity

I think there is a reason why we have different capacity inverters. I don't see how you could power up a 5kw load with a 3kw inverter. Grid-tie or not, I have never heard of anyone who has managed to do that. I stand to be corrected and open to learn, please share, which inverter does this? I would like to read up more about that specific inverter

Your installer is correct, if you exceed the capacity of your inverter, it will trip

Yes! Hybrid meaning it can work as either grid-tied or off-grid.

This still confuses me, A Sunsynk is a grid tied inverter. Are you saying you can power an 8kw load from a 5kw sunsynk by blending grid and solar?

Ah! ok, then that makes sense

I had communication and four US2000 that were charging at a max of 25A even though I had lots of sunshine. This I tested for over a year with Pylontech pointing fingers at the inverter and growatt pointing fingers at the batteries until I decided to get rid of the comms. Now my system works as intended and much better

Nope, it can't blend, that is luxury for me. That is why I can't afford Sunsynk and surprised that OP doesn't want it, for the price its going for. If I had R30k to spare, I would grab this without a blink.

I see, R30k is still too much for me, that's why 2 x 5kw Growatts for R20k

I thought that Sunsynk was a Rolls Royce of the inverters

If compatible with Pylontech, count me in.

Thanks, you just confirmed that I was on the right track. The new UP5000 is going to be a muster and Pylontech confirmed that they are compatible and they will talk to each other. There is comms wires that goes from one battery to the next

If you are going to get two US2000 battery, you will be able to discharge at 2400w continuous. And max for a brief period is 4800w. The charge voltage range is 52.5v to 53.5v for this battery and Jeff opted for the minimum when he advised you. The discharge voltage can go as low as 45v according to the manual but you don't want to go there 46.5v and 47v is ok, IMHO. I think it is entirely up to an individual as to what settings to use as long as they are within the recommended limits. If they try to decline any warranty based of BMS comms, show them page5 and quote: Battery management system (BMS)has protection functions including over-discharge, over-charge, over-current and high/low temperature; The system can automatically manage charge and discharge state and balance current and voltage of each cell; which is found on their official document Then go on and quote the basic parameters which they published on page 6. pylontech_us2000_manual.pdf

@CoulombI can't seem to find my email where they recommended different settings for my 4 x US2000 batteries. Recommendations were max charging current was 80A, bulk and float was 53.2v. But I did my own thing, set max current to 100A and bulk/float to 53.3v. Reason for Max 100A is that US2000B's max charging current is 25A and I have 4 in my bank, that gives me 100A. I must say, even with 53.3v setting, my batteries float at around 52.4v most of the time and SoC of 99%. At 100% SoC the voltage is 53.2v but they don't float at 100% SoC. I have bought a UP5000 to expand my storage, can you advice me on settings I should use? that is now 4 x US2000B plus 1 x UP5000, total 14.4kwh

still abit cloudy but no baking today

Charged again today as normal and floating at 98%-99%.when full, they float at 99% and some times discharge by providing a bit i.e 548w this time, even though there is enough solar power. If BMS comms was connected, at this point my inverter will cut out PV production and draw from the battery. That doesn't happen anymore. Magic

Did the batteries explode? No!

I can not believe that you are still arguing, even after posting my battery cycles for the seven days. The battery pack has been floating at 52.4v from around 11:00 when full, till it is needed in the afternoon. Max charge current for that week is 46.45A and I can assure you that this control was not achieved through CAN or any other form of communication between my battery bank and the inverter. I have showed you hard/practical facts and you still argue BMS protects and control, please do not argue.

hi! I'm afraid your issue might be more than just ferrules. There is no where I used ferrules in my installation except on battery cables which were supplied with the ferrules crimped. 14 x 400w PV panels with MC4 connectors and no ferrules at my fuse box, isolators and inverter PV termination and over a year later, my system is still running without overheating anything. Your panels produces around 22A, according to the specs and how you connected them. It is strange that your 63A breaker trips and let alone gets heated up. Your worst case scenario, short circuit current is 23.44A. I don't think you can get anywhere near 63A,even with lose termination. Assuming that your PV connection to the inverter is correct, I would straight away throw that 63A breaker in the bin

to put it simple, lets say you have a 5kw inverter. Try this test, switch off all your loads and leave a TV and fridge on, say 300w load. Do you have communication between your inverter and TV/Fridge? No, but your inverter will supply that 300w and when you switch off the TV, it will supply less and when you add more loads it will increase the output. Has anything in your house got blown by the inverter? No! has your inverter ever tried to deliver the 5kw to your load even though you had only the TV and fridge ON? No, it is impossible for it to do that The same logic applies to the battery. As long as you do not remove the BMS card from the battery, your inverter will not over charge/discharge the batteries. When the battery is full it cuts off charge and life continues as normal. It does not trip and switch off everything, Each of my US2000's recommended charge current is 25A, I have four. I have set my charge to 100A on the inverter and by 11:00, my batteries are full and charging stops. they don't get over charged and pop. For the first time since my install, my system works much better that when I had BMS comms connected. below is my cycles for the past few days, battery charge/discharge, all controlled by bms, not the inverter. The inverter was only delivering what was requested/demanded by the battery. NOte: No BMS comms between my inverter and Pylontec bank. Today was a bad day because it was abit cloudy and the wife backing and cooking a storm most of the day, so batteries couldn't get charged fully. You can see that, even though I have set my inverter to charge at 100A, at no point did I reach that, even on good solar days. That's BMS at works and if this is not clear enough, I give up

The inverter will provide what the load demands, that includes the charge requested by the battery. I have my BMS comms disconnected and all has been working well for the past two months now. when the battery is around 90%, it demands less current to charge and the inverter will provide that. BMS function does not depend comms between an inverter and battery. BMS is build into a battery, it manages and controls battery charge/discharge with or without comms to the inverter. BTW, the same jeff provided me with recommended setting while using the batteries without comms...lol

When you contact support they even have recommended settings when you do not use BMS coms, so! someone there is confused Bottom line, lack of BMS comms with the inverter will not void your warranty, contact them and get the recommended settings and keep the email of those settings that they gave you as evidence. Just incase

The inverter causing the battery damage is another story on its own. My issue is this statement, Pylontech replied to my email: "We don't encourage our customers to use our batteries without communication, and it will not be under warranty."

contact technical support and you will get a different answer. The battery's BMS does not rely on any inverter for the BMS to function or to protect the battery in any way. [email protected] Contact jeff for more information on this