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hoohloc

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Everything posted by hoohloc

  1. You are correct, you can never have enough panels. As long as you do not exceed the voltage limit of your MPPT, you can have as much panels as you want and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. The inverter will only draw the current which is within its limit, from the panels and clip off the rest, so you can safely ignore the max power of the solar array. For example, if you have 5kw inverter, MPPT operating Voltages range 120v to 400v, and max current 13A. If you keep your string voltage below 400v, you can have 20 x 415w JA solar PV panels installed in 10s2p giving you operating voltage of 367v and max potential current of 22A but your inverter will only take 13A. Your potential/theoretical available power is 8300w and the only thing you will burn is your pockets. Will I do this, NO! it will be a total waste. will it work, 100% sure it will work
  2. Hi Guys I'm looking for an installer to install four x 415w Jinko solar panels in Cosmocity. The house has Luxpower SNA5000 inverter and Pylontech US2000B which has been working as loadshedding back up. To be supplied by the installer; - 4 x Renusol end clamps - 10m of Red 4mm solar cable -10m of Black 4mm solar cable - 1 x double pole pole DC breaker The rest of material is already on site and I can do the installation myself because of other commitments
  3. Not sure if this is the best practice but I would disconnect the two US3000 and charge UP5000 to 70%. Then connect UP5000 and the one US3000 that is on 70% and charge the two to 98%. Then connect all batteries and monitor
  4. Both good batteries, I would go for the cheap one
  5. The poor contractor has already been judged here on the post. shoddy work, short cuts and corrupt and yet he did the installation over 10years ago
  6. Don't mind the photo, read the description. And the fact that he called and they said he can pay on collection means he will pay for the UP5000 and collect UP5000. Which is what is on the advert description
  7. Pay on collection is always a good idea, too many skelems out there
  8. hoohloc

    Ryan

    Hi, hope this will help If you are using RS485 for BMS comms, switch dip switch 1 to ONand leave the rest on off on your UP5000. On the rest of the batteries, leave the switches on OFF. If you are using CAN, Leave all the dip switches off on all batteries including the UP5000. Take note that on the UP5000 your dip switches are upside down as show on the screen short above. But 1 is still one and 2 is still two. ON is ON and OFF is still OFF, this can be confusing to others but
  9. Same day of commissioning or handover of the system. If you are still holding on to their balance, tell the installer that you will use that to get an electrician to come and issue a CoC. I paid R1500 for my CoC a while back, not sure how much it cost now but it is better to get that asap for your peace of mind.
  10. Hi Bro I don't use geyserwise controller, I'm only using their PTC element and control the AC timing with CBI astute, DC with SONOF. I don't get to see the actual temperatures but the water remains hot enough for three adults and two teens to shower in the morning. The temperature will decrease as you use water because the hot water from the geyser is being replaced by cold one while showering
  11. Think of Redundancy, you want to have back up when your battery fails. If you go for a 10kw and the battery fail for some reason and has to be sent in for repairs or warranty swap, you are doomed. If you go for two 5kw, one fails and you still have one to fall on or use while waiting for the repairs. Also, for trouble shooting, if you have an issue and suspect the battery has a problem, you can always test by using one battery at a time to isolate the issue. If you have only one battery then you will have to pay someone to come and assist you. Two is always better than one, no matter how you look at it and do not worry about any ''complexity in balancing'' leave that to BMS. You are not planning on DIY battery, right? Also, amount of wiring is nothing to worry about as the wiring linking the batteries come included when you purchase them. I'm talking based on Pylontech, not sure about other brands
  12. Nope, you are spot ON. Maximum I have drawn from the battery with the 900w PTC element is 19A for a second at switch on and then went down to a constant 18A.
  13. I have never overloaded my 0.5C batteries and I'm powering directly from the batteries. You can have 1C battery connected to 3000w inverter, if you try to draw 4000w out of that inverter, it will trip. My point is, badly specd system will disappoint you at one point, but if you know what you want to achieve and spec your system to give you exactly that, then you have no risk of overloading the battery
  14. True, if you over load your inverter by powering all the loads at the same time knowing very well that you have a geyser on and running directly from the battery, you will be asking for problems. on the second statement, ''can this setup work'' the answer is Yes it does work. I'm currently doing that and at no point have I ever tripped my battery bank or the cheap growatt that I'm using. Both AC and DC are ON as we speak
  15. According to their claim, yes but I'm yet to check. I'm currently running one now for a while and will check when I get a chance
  16. ok, lets leave out the heat pump. Focus on the heating element because the prices are not comparable
  17. Yep, check out the Geyserwise PTC element, that is what I'm using. Mine is dual powered
  18. True, they are very good and worth every penny. For the AC supply, I use the normal thermostat that came with the geyser but the DC supply has no thermostat. Still looking for a solution to that one but for now, SONOF is doing the trick. I have the AC supply on CBI Astute and DC supply on a SONOF/timer. when I want to power the geyser the whole day I use both AC and DC and when the AC switches off/ no current flow, I know that the temperature is ok and I switch off the DC supply.
  19. Ok, data reporting on the inverter will definitely not include the 1500w but that does not stop you from including that in your calculations because you know that you have 1500w which is being used by the geyser and the period which the geyser was ON. As for blending solar grid and battery, surely you can prioritize solar first and when you have enough solar, all that will go to your loads including charging the very same battery you are drawing from and will only take from the battery when solar is not enough. I guess it all depends on the type of inverter one uses. Bottom line, what OP was asking is if it will be possible to run directly from the batteries, the answer is YES, most definitely. he can power his DC geyser element directly from the batteries. It is practical and I'm doing it without any issues, nine months now and counting. I would choose that over the accuracy of inverter data recording because having hot water in the morning without putting a hole in my pocket is a bliss. Happy wife, happy daughter makes a happy home hey! plus I get to save on gas water heating. If I had done this before installing the gas water heater, I would have never installed it because I hardly hear it switching ON and it has been cold these past days and was expecting to be boosting my hot water every now and then with gas
  20. Please explain more on how drawing from a battery via a separate load might interfere with comms between batt and inverter. As for the extra wiring and fuse, I totally agree with you, you need wiring, fuses and contactor to be able to switch ON and OFF the geyser. For comms!!! if your inverter can not tell the SoC of the battery bank when BMS comms is connected and working, then you have a serious issue with you inverter hey! it shows that your BMS comms was useless to begin with. As long as BMS comms is connected and working as it should, you will always know when your battery is at 100%, 50% or any SoC, whether you are drawing 30A from the battery via any thing other than the inverter, you should be able to get SoC communicated to the inverter via BMS. You will not see the 30A being drawn by the geyser because that one needs a separate monitoring device or you can put it at the back of your head since you know you have switched on a load that draws 30A. Or do as I do with my system and use Fluke clamp meter when you want to check the draw
  21. My geyser is +/-10 meters away from my battery bank which is in the garage. I used exactly 15m lengths of black and red 6mm^2 PV cables, the DC element is the Dual supply 1k5w Geyserwise PTC element. It is 900w element when powered from a DC source and 1500w when AC powered. I have 2 x 20A fuses installed on both wires and the most I have seen, drawn by the element is 19A. The benefit of using DC is that I can safely power my geyser the whole night without having to worry about draining my battery bank.
  22. This can be done and it is very simple, please check out this post
  23. only seeing now that I never updated this. I did manage to get my DC supply of the geyser element working, thanks to @Scorp007 and the contactor works perfect for switching on and off the supply. This install has been running for nine months now. I use a SONOF to remotely control my ON and OFF and there is also a program or timer that switches it On every day at midnight and off at SUN rise, for the morning shower. Then my batteries gets charged till mid day to 100% and then I use both AC and DC supply to power the geyser again. Depending on the weather and loadshedding. When we have loadshedding or poor weather, I only use the DC to power the element for the rest of the day.
  24. not really, it depends on where you bought your Pylons from
  25. Should be very worried if he/she had bought from Segen. They seem to make up their own rules when it comes to warranty
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