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hoohloc

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Everything posted by hoohloc

  1. From a quick search on google, this is what I found
  2. Geyserwise PTC element uses both AC and DC supply. You can use both at the same time or one at a time and yes you can use the element without the geyser being directly connected to the solar panels. In my set up, the AC supply to the element is controlled by CBI Astute smart controller, connected to the DB supply. The DC supply is controlled by SONOFF to switch ON/OFF a contactor that is connected to the battery bank, 48v
  3. The problem with electric blanket is that you can not wrap it around you when you go to the lounge to watch a movie or to the dining area when you want to have a nice meal . The AC will warm the entire area for everyone to enjoy
  4. It depends on which model of growatt you are comparing with sunsynk. If your installer is talking about Growatt SPH 6000TL BL-UP, then he is absolutely right. This inverter seems to be able to do pretty much what sunsynk does. Unlike sunsynk, rebranded Dye, growatt has a lot of inverters to choose from. Find out from the installer, which model is he comparing to Sunsynk https://www.ginverter.com/products/sph-3000-6000tl-bl-up
  5. Never heard of them, but lets wait for more feedback from other guys. My advice, if you are in Bloem, buy from them and let us know about the experience. If not in Bloem, buy from suppliers that are close to your area. There is plenty of legit suppliers in JHB and some in Cape town like the powerforum store. Quick search on this forum will show you which online suppliers are legit. I wouldn't look at any other supplier unless I want to learn something...........
  6. Sorry for the late response, I gave up on BMS coms ages ago. I use USE and my settings are as Pylontech manuals, all has been good and no issues so far. Almost two years now and my battery bank SoH is on 95%. It was on 98% before adding a second hand US2000 which I bought late last year but I'm not too worried about that. When I checked each battery, individually, the first two which I bought when I first went solar, are at 98%, the other two and the UP5000 are still at 100% and the second hand one is at 95% which lead me to believe that Riot Cloud looks at the worst battery to say, that is my overall SoH for the bank. I stand to be corrected. Did the latest Firmware upgrade fix your charge issue?
  7. Have you seen how good looking is the paloma gas water heater?
  8. I was about to say the same thing
  9. The advice is to switch off all the loads. When all loads are off, that include batteries, you will not have current flowing from the PV panels and it will be safe to switch them off. Always work safe
  10. how will charging take place when the batteries are off and isolated? Again, it is always best and safe to remove all the load before switching off. The load includes batteries as well. Think safety first and you will not go wrong
  11. Sorry but, why will any one break the circuit under load? shouldn't you first switch off all the loads before isolating the panels? In MHO, it doesn't matter whether you use fuses or isolator or both. I prefer using both
  12. This depends on which Pylontech battery you want to add. Communica in Midrans seems to have stock https://www.communica.co.za/products/batt-48v74ac-li-ion-pyl I prefer a place where I can walk in, with cash, and then walk out with my stuff. I'm old school and do not want to take chances with online stores as there are so many scammers out there. I would rather pay that extra grand and get my stuff immediately than try and save few hundreds, only to be scammed out of thousands Inverterware house is my go to place, but they are out of stock https://www.inverter-warehouse.co.za/collections/batteries/Lithium I have also bought from the solar shop https://www.solar-shop.co.za/pylontech/536-pylontech-up5000-48kwh-li-ion-solar-battery-48v.html and they seem to have stock too but the prices are now ridiculously high. I guess they will not go down any time soon
  13. bought mine for R22k vat inclusive at inverterwarehouse
  14. not to mention that you do not need copper busbar. easy installation, safe and neat
  15. I think this will be a good investment and will give you peace of mind incase your forget to unplug the washing machine.
  16. This is completely false, check the battery user manual. It says the opposite of what you just said here. The slaves take the baud rate from the master, You set the master and the slaves will follow
  17. The OP is using RS485 and you have to change the dipswitches to select the Baud rate. The below is straight out of the User manual, page 7 and 8 If Using CAN, you do not have to touch the Dipswitches
  18. If you are using RS485, have a look at you dipswitch settings. Your photos are not clear
  19. The SNA5000 can not export to the grid, that thing is an off grid inverter even if they can call it all sorts of names and I stand to be corrected. The one that can export to the grid is the LXP5000, which is slightly more expensive. roughly the same price as the Sunsynk 5kva
  20. out of interest, why did you do the firmware upgrade? did you have any issues or you just wanted the latest firmware?
  21. We are in the same boat, for some reason even Lux power support refuses to give me admin rights. They say I should get it from the supply and the supplier has no idea what that is.
  22. I'm of a different opinion, you made the right choice by getting the heat pump. He did mention that your production is going to be low in winter and that is where you will need the heat pump the most. Not sure if you stay with family members like my wife and daughter, the shower with boiling water and that means you will have to switch on your geyser in the early hours and that will drain your 4 x 4.8Kwh batteries so fast that you will wish you had gone with the heat pump. Heat pump or gas water heater are the best solution for water heating when you have solar, IMHO
  23. with these modular batteries, you already have +ve bus and -Ve bus. Why on earth will you want to add another extra two bus bars? beats me. If you look closely, the blue highlight forms a -Ve bus and red highlight forms a +ve bus. what real use, will the extra copper bars you add to an installation provide? Maybe I'm missing something but for now, it really does not make any sense at all
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