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HI All

 

Thank you for a great forum and guidance, lots of posts that help a lot.

 

I currently have the following system:

 

1x Deye 8kw Inverter

2x Pylontech 3000C batteries

8x Jinko Solar Panel Tiger 545W Mono-Facial

 

The system works really well, but I just want to make sure that my I have the correct settings for on the inverter to charge the batteries. Currently the solar panels charges the batteries at an avg of roughly 2.3kwh per day. I know things like cloud coverage etc will have an impact, but even on sunny days it does not really go above 2.8kwh. 

I have prepaid power, so can not push back to the grid which is unfortunate, would have liked to have this saving.

 

The way I use the inverter at the moment is to let the panels charge the batteries and run most of the house except the heating appliances during the day when there is enough sun, at night I run from the batteries until 45% SoC and then switch to Eskom. If there is a shortfall on the panels it obviously also gets power from Eskom.

Is there any changes I should make, or does the config look ok?

 

 

Thank you in advance.

 

 

Thank you for your input.

 

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Hey M0skva!

Like a morgue in these quarters recently ... Maybe most members exchanged Gauteng's solar deprivation for coastal solar deprivation. I'm no expert, and my response is based on a month of reading, tinkering, trial and error, but here goes.

image.png.369d1060487811f036a388262ce430b5.png

This will have zero impact but if you only have one inverter let it be the master :)

image.png.11c1535b297c2577ff58cdea78a4d96b.png

This really is a personal choice, but I've set up a more aggresive battery profile. If loadshedding is announced you can bump up the lower values, but with this setup you should get at least 80% x 7kWh = 5.6kWh use from your batteries every day. I leave mine low in the morning and prioritise load over battery (to follow), then ramp up during the day, leaving some headroom to use a fully charged battery to augment solar production if needed.  If there is time to recharge, then great, if not nothing lost. The stepped reduction during the night is to allow manual intervention to save battery power for a sudden announcement of early morning loadshedding if required.

image.png.e9b11070746109b3a23946040f400939.png   

Absolutely prioritise load over battery under normal working conditions to maximise the economic benefit of your installation. This you can set back to "Batt First" during loadshedding if you wish, but your 7kWh of storage should do fine during loadshedding even from a very low charge like 20%.

image.png.afcfd333736542b33e02c4831171302e.png

Dont know these error codes but this is what the manual says:

image.png.6e1e0a21c30e29c12a82cb6375b75838.png

And this from a SunSynk blog post:

F56 DC busbar voltage is too low Generally cause with the battery problem possibly a damaged BMS. If you experience in M56 fault then you need to focus on the battery, the battery cables, the battery connections, battery discharging parameters and the the general condition of the battery.

1. Check or battery cables are nice and tight good connections
2.If using parallel checked all battery cables are the same length as the batteries are low voltage compare to the mains but very high current than the cable that is very important we should all be the same length
3. Check the C rating of the battery
4. Check the invert at maximum discharge setting
5. Checked inverter maximum power setting ( Max sell Power )

image.png.01db34a00e8f3eba66a8f6a0dcbb4e0c.png

Your batteries are 3500Wh at 48V each. That is 3500Wh/48V = 74Ah each. The bank of two is therefore best seen as a one 148Ah battery. So adjust the capacity to 148Ah. I use 0.5C charge and discharge rates, which is the same as that recommended for your battery, so 74A each (good for about 3.55kW of charge and discharge - your limiting factor during loadshedding will be your batteries not your 8kW inverter).

image.png.827a462714dbb0e0295fdc1e5d479490.png

Your Pylons are rated 95% DOD, so shutdown at 5% (for this to happen you would need very long and severe loadshedding with dismal weather). Set low battery warning lower than normal min% to avoid nuisance alarms, and restart the battery earlier - maybe even 20%.  In effect it wont deliver any power unless the minimums in the work mode table are reached.

image.png.e4f0542fc0c13dfa42c2230a5ffb90bf.png  

OK, but remember to tick here when you want to charge up from the grid during loadshedding.

 

   

Edited by Scubadude
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I'm new to the forum.  Actually first post anywhere.  I don't even know if I'm in the right spot.  I live in Costa Rica where the power company discourages hookup and they have installed one way meters so any power I make extra I get charged for.  I started my system 3 years ago before they changed to new regulations.  I have 14-235w Peimar ground mount panels.  Hooked up to 3-QS1 and 1 YC-600 AP Systems micro-inverters.  Power here goes out a little almost everyday.  So I decided to put in a Deye 8k with 2 Pylon Tech US3000 for backup.  Our power grid here is a 120/240 split phase.  I am set up for zero export.

My problem is that Deye's manual does not address the micro inverter situation.  Nothing on set up or the regulation there of.  My manual states that Deye Inverter works with the micro inverters, and that's all.  My Deye turns my micro inverters off almost all day.  They never charge my batteries unless I turn my main grid breaker off.  I have written Deye tech support and they have just told me to read my manual.  I have never gotten and answer from them.  They once told me to talk to the man that sold it to me.  I don't believe the salesman that sold it to me knows how the micro inverter coupling works.

My question is:  Is there any information out there on how Deye sets up a/c coupled micro inverters??      I can get pictures of my daily power production.  If they would help.

Thanks up front for any information.

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7 hours ago, Pizote said:

Is there any information out there on how Deye sets up a/c coupled micro inverters??

Don't know much about deye, however sunsynk is the same inverter with different software.I'm guessing for offgrid you would need to connect your micro inverter on aux input and control it from there Check out:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWnrFQqLJ74

And for ongrid check:

https://www.sunsynk.org/post/ac-coupling-must-watch

Hope this helps and solves your problem.

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On 2021/12/27 at 7:29 AM, Scubadude said:

Hey M0skva!

Like a morgue in these quarters recently ... Maybe most members exchanged Gauteng's solar deprivation for coastal solar deprivation. I'm no expert, and my response is based on a month of reading, tinkering, trial and error, but here goes.

image.png.369d1060487811f036a388262ce430b5.png

This will have zero impact but if you only have one inverter let it be the master :)

image.png.11c1535b297c2577ff58cdea78a4d96b.png

This really is a personal choice, but I've set up a more aggresive battery profile. If loadshedding is announced you can bump up the lower values, but with this setup you should get at least 80% x 7kWh = 5.6kWh use from your batteries every day. I leave mine low in the morning and prioritise load over battery (to follow), then ramp up during the day, leaving some headroom to use a fully charged battery to augment solar production if needed.  If there is time to recharge, then great, if not nothing lost. The stepped reduction during the night is to allow manual intervention to save battery power for a sudden announcement of early morning loadshedding if required.

image.png.e9b11070746109b3a23946040f400939.png   

Absolutely prioritise load over battery under normal working conditions to maximise the economic benefit of your installation. This you can set back to "Batt First" during loadshedding if you wish, but your 7kWh of storage should do fine during loadshedding even from a very low charge like 20%.

image.png.afcfd333736542b33e02c4831171302e.png

Dont know these error codes but this is what the manual says:

image.png.6e1e0a21c30e29c12a82cb6375b75838.png

And this from a SunSynk blog post:

F56 DC busbar voltage is too low Generally cause with the battery problem possibly a damaged BMS. If you experience in M56 fault then you need to focus on the battery, the battery cables, the battery connections, battery discharging parameters and the the general condition of the battery.

1. Check or battery cables are nice and tight good connections
2.If using parallel checked all battery cables are the same length as the batteries are low voltage compare to the mains but very high current than the cable that is very important we should all be the same length
3. Check the C rating of the battery
4. Check the invert at maximum discharge setting
5. Checked inverter maximum power setting ( Max sell Power )

image.png.01db34a00e8f3eba66a8f6a0dcbb4e0c.png

Your batteries are 3500Wh at 48V each. That is 3500Wh/48V = 74Ah each. The bank of two is therefore best seen as a one 148Ah battery. So adjust the capacity to 148Ah. I use 0.5C charge and discharge rates, which is the same as that recommended for your battery, so 74A each (good for about 3.55kW of charge and discharge - your limiting factor during loadshedding will be your batteries not your 8kW inverter).

image.png.827a462714dbb0e0295fdc1e5d479490.png

Your Pylons are rated 95% DOD, so shutdown at 5% (for this to happen you would need very long and severe loadshedding with dismal weather). Set low battery warning lower than normal min% to avoid nuisance alarms, and restart the battery earlier - maybe even 20%.  In effect it wont deliver any power unless the minimums in the work mode table are reached.

image.png.e4f0542fc0c13dfa42c2230a5ffb90bf.png  

OK, but remember to tick here when you want to charge up from the grid during loadshedding.

 

   

Hey @Scubadude

 

Thank you for your help and explanations, it really helped a lot.

 

Changing to load first also ensured that my avg production went up from 7-10kwh/day to 16-20kwh/day, big thanks for that.

After changing the battery settings I can see that it does charge quicker than previously. Thank you for the explanation of how you get to the value.

I have have changed the discharge setting to the one you recommended today and will monitor and see how it works for me.

The F56 error was when our substation in Mooikloof burned down, so when there was no sun or battery power the inverter turned off with that error due to no power.

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  • 1 month later...
On 2021/12/27 at 7:29 AM, Scubadude said:

Hey M0skva!

Like a morgue in these quarters recently ... Maybe most members exchanged Gauteng's solar deprivation for coastal solar deprivation. I'm no expert, and my response is based on a month of reading, tinkering, trial and error, but here goes.

image.png.369d1060487811f036a388262ce430b5.png

This will have zero impact but if you only have one inverter let it be the master :)

image.png.11c1535b297c2577ff58cdea78a4d96b.png

This really is a personal choice, but I've set up a more aggresive battery profile. If loadshedding is announced you can bump up the lower values, but with this setup you should get at least 80% x 7kWh = 5.6kWh use from your batteries every day. I leave mine low in the morning and prioritise load over battery (to follow), then ramp up during the day, leaving some headroom to use a fully charged battery to augment solar production if needed.  If there is time to recharge, then great, if not nothing lost. The stepped reduction during the night is to allow manual intervention to save battery power for a sudden announcement of early morning loadshedding if required.

image.png.e9b11070746109b3a23946040f400939.png   

Absolutely prioritise load over battery under normal working conditions to maximise the economic benefit of your installation. This you can set back to "Batt First" during loadshedding if you wish, but your 7kWh of storage should do fine during loadshedding even from a very low charge like 20%.

image.png.afcfd333736542b33e02c4831171302e.png

Dont know these error codes but this is what the manual says:

image.png.6e1e0a21c30e29c12a82cb6375b75838.png

And this from a SunSynk blog post:

F56 DC busbar voltage is too low Generally cause with the battery problem possibly a damaged BMS. If you experience in M56 fault then you need to focus on the battery, the battery cables, the battery connections, battery discharging parameters and the the general condition of the battery.

1. Check or battery cables are nice and tight good connections
2.If using parallel checked all battery cables are the same length as the batteries are low voltage compare to the mains but very high current than the cable that is very important we should all be the same length
3. Check the C rating of the battery
4. Check the invert at maximum discharge setting
5. Checked inverter maximum power setting ( Max sell Power )

image.png.01db34a00e8f3eba66a8f6a0dcbb4e0c.png

Your batteries are 3500Wh at 48V each. That is 3500Wh/48V = 74Ah each. The bank of two is therefore best seen as a one 148Ah battery. So adjust the capacity to 148Ah. I use 0.5C charge and discharge rates, which is the same as that recommended for your battery, so 74A each (good for about 3.55kW of charge and discharge - your limiting factor during loadshedding will be your batteries not your 8kW inverter).

image.png.827a462714dbb0e0295fdc1e5d479490.png

Your Pylons are rated 95% DOD, so shutdown at 5% (for this to happen you would need very long and severe loadshedding with dismal weather). Set low battery warning lower than normal min% to avoid nuisance alarms, and restart the battery earlier - maybe even 20%.  In effect it wont deliver any power unless the minimums in the work mode table are reached.

image.png.e4f0542fc0c13dfa42c2230a5ffb90bf.png  

OK, but remember to tick here when you want to charge up from the grid during loadshedding.

 

   

this is awesome.. what a great post. I have pretty much the same setup except I currently only have 1 x Greenrich 3.6KW battery. I'll definitely use some of these settings for my setup and adjust the battery to it's own relevant ratings.  

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  • 10 months later...
On 2021/12/27 at 7:29 AM, Scubadude said:

Hey M0skva!

Like a morgue in these quarters recently ... Maybe most members exchanged Gauteng's solar deprivation for coastal solar deprivation. I'm no expert, and my response is based on a month of reading, tinkering, trial and error, but here goes.

image.png.369d1060487811f036a388262ce430b5.png

This will have zero impact but if you only have one inverter let it be the master :)

image.png.11c1535b297c2577ff58cdea78a4d96b.png

This really is a personal choice, but I've set up a more aggresive battery profile. If loadshedding is announced you can bump up the lower values, but with this setup you should get at least 80% x 7kWh = 5.6kWh use from your batteries every day. I leave mine low in the morning and prioritise load over battery (to follow), then ramp up during the day, leaving some headroom to use a fully charged battery to augment solar production if needed.  If there is time to recharge, then great, if not nothing lost. The stepped reduction during the night is to allow manual intervention to save battery power for a sudden announcement of early morning loadshedding if required.

image.png.e9b11070746109b3a23946040f400939.png   

Absolutely prioritise load over battery under normal working conditions to maximise the economic benefit of your installation. This you can set back to "Batt First" during loadshedding if you wish, but your 7kWh of storage should do fine during loadshedding even from a very low charge like 20%.

image.png.afcfd333736542b33e02c4831171302e.png

Dont know these error codes but this is what the manual says:

image.png.6e1e0a21c30e29c12a82cb6375b75838.png

And this from a SunSynk blog post:

F56 DC busbar voltage is too low Generally cause with the battery problem possibly a damaged BMS. If you experience in M56 fault then you need to focus on the battery, the battery cables, the battery connections, battery discharging parameters and the the general condition of the battery.

1. Check or battery cables are nice and tight good connections
2.If using parallel checked all battery cables are the same length as the batteries are low voltage compare to the mains but very high current than the cable that is very important we should all be the same length
3. Check the C rating of the battery
4. Check the invert at maximum discharge setting
5. Checked inverter maximum power setting ( Max sell Power )

image.png.01db34a00e8f3eba66a8f6a0dcbb4e0c.png

Your batteries are 3500Wh at 48V each. That is 3500Wh/48V = 74Ah each. The bank of two is therefore best seen as a one 148Ah battery. So adjust the capacity to 148Ah. I use 0.5C charge and discharge rates, which is the same as that recommended for your battery, so 74A each (good for about 3.55kW of charge and discharge - your limiting factor during loadshedding will be your batteries not your 8kW inverter).

image.png.827a462714dbb0e0295fdc1e5d479490.png

Your Pylons are rated 95% DOD, so shutdown at 5% (for this to happen you would need very long and severe loadshedding with dismal weather). Set low battery warning lower than normal min% to avoid nuisance alarms, and restart the battery earlier - maybe even 20%.  In effect it wont deliver any power unless the minimums in the work mode table are reached.

image.png.e4f0542fc0c13dfa42c2230a5ffb90bf.png  

OK, but remember to tick here when you want to charge up from the grid during loadshedding.

 

   

Are you still using these “aggressive” settings on your setup? 
what is your battery capacity?

Initially i only had 1 x 3.68kwh battery and I just bought and added another one so I now have 7,36kwh. I have a separate solar geyser installed as well. Any advice will be appreciated. 

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