I need help with a diagram of this card or a picture

When the device is turned on, it gives a long beep without any data on the screen

I need help

Sadly, the control boards are almost the last ones to have their schematic traced and published. I recently traced just the tiny part (two transistors that happen to be disignated Q1 and Q2) that interfaces to the SCC (Solar Charge Controller) serial port. I also have a few chicken scratchings of the IO extender chip somewhere that I've been meaning to clean up.

At the bottom of your second photo there seems to be an area that has burned. Is that the case? If so, can you read any parts designators for nearby parts?

Your machine appears to be genuine (not a clone), and one of the last PF0.8 models, made early 2018. It's basically the same model as my two (one is being repaired at present), except yours have the 80A SCC, mine are one of the last 60A models. Though your control board is unusual, it doesn't seem to have much gap between the three 16-pin plugs that connect to the main board. The layout also seems a little off, but hopefully that's just because it's a bit over a year later than mine. 

Edit: it looks like the damaged area might be near U12 or U13, ULN2003A 7-way darlington open collector drivers. IF it's one of those chips, AND the printed circuit board is repairable, then at least those chips should be readily available for just over AU$1 (5-6 Rand I think). But if PVB traces are blown away, then repair is unlikely. I suppose if you're willing to go to a bit of work you could piggy back a small piece of vero-board; those chips are also available in through-hole versions. It might be easier than getting the exact right replacement board.

It would help to know a little history: did this inverter stop with a bang? Any fault code displayed? What main (U1) firmware? I'm guessing 73.00 or so.

Edited January 10, 20223 yr by Coulomb

When I connect to the battery, it does not give any data on the screen and the fan spins directly and when the device is turned off, it does not respond permanently. 2003 and all l44 were replaced, tl074c was changed and lm339 was replaced

18 hours ago, Coulomb said:

Sadly, the control boards are almost the last ones to have their schematic traced and published. I recently traced just the tiny part (two transistors that happen to be disignated Q1 and Q2) that interfaces to the SCC (Solar Charge Controller) serial port. I also have a few chicken scratchings of the IO extender chip somewhere that I've been meaning to clean up.

At the bottom of your second photo there seems to be an area that has burned. Is that the case? If so, can you read any parts designators for nearby parts?

Your machine appears to be genuine (not a clone), and one of the last PF0.8 models, made early 2018. It's basically the same model as my two (one is being repaired at present), except yours have the 80A SCC, mine are one of the last 60A models. Though your control board is unusual, it doesn't seem to have much gap between the three 16-pin plugs that connect to the main board. The layout also seems a little off, but hopefully that's just because it's a bit over a year later than mine. 

Edit: it looks like the damaged area might be near U12 or U13, ULN2003A 7-way darlington open collector drivers. IF it's one of those chips, AND the printed circuit board is repairable, then at least those chips should be readily available for just over AU$1 (5-6 Rand I think). But if PVB traces are blown away, then repair is unlikely. I suppose if you're willing to go to a bit of work you could piggy back a small piece of vero-board; those chips are also available in through-hole versions. It might be easier than getting the exact right replacement board.

It would help to know a little history: did this inverter stop with a bang? Any fault code displayed? What main (U1) firmware? I'm guessing 73.00 or so.

There is no error that appears on the screen, it just gives a long beep

18 hours ago, PRENS said:

When I connect to the battery, it does not give any data on the screen and the fan spins directly...

I have to wonder if the program image is corrupted, and/or the DSP is damaged. I think that setting the fans to 100% is one of the first things that the firmware does. Turning off the fans comes a bit later.

Have you attempted to reflash the main firmware?

If the DSP is damaged, then you'd need to replace the whole control card. You could replace just the processor if you have the right soldering equipment and skills, but then you'd need a bootloader, and I don't believe I have one for your model. Without the bootloader, you could not program the main firmware.

3 hours ago, Coulomb said:

I have to wonder if the program image is corrupted, and/or the DSP is damaged. I think that setting the fans to 100% is one of the first things that the firmware does. Turning off the fans comes a bit later.

Have you attempted to reflash the main firmware?

If the DSP is damaged, then you'd need to replace the whole control card. You could replace just the processor if you have the right soldering equipment and skills, but then you'd need a bootloader, and I don't believe I have one for your model. Without the bootloader, you could not program the main firmware.

Unfortunately, I do not have the driver, and can I install any 24v system in its place

1 hour ago, PRENS said:

Unfortunately, I do not have the driver, and can I install any 24v system in its place

No, you can't install any 24 V firmware. Some of them are even 8-bit firmwares, you certainly don't want those. [ Edit: assuming that you have a 32-bit DSP based machine, as all but the tiniest ones are. ]

24 V firmwares are scarce. What version do you have at present, if you know? Otherwise, what is the exact model? There is a small chance that I have one that is suitable, even if somewhat old.

Edited January 11, 20223 yr by Coulomb