So, on Thursday night my Sunsynk 8Kw Inverter was coming up with an F26 "DC busbar is unbalanced" error and stopped working!

After numerous conversations with @Leshen, GetOffGrid & Sunsynk it was determined that the problem was an Inverter issue and that it was going to have to go in for repair. 

Needless to say panic ensued at the prospect of having to deal with load shedding for the next 2 months (long waiting list for Sunsynk repairs at the moment) 

I at first considered getting a replacement 8kw Sunsynk to use until my 8kw comes back from repair and then either sell my old one or parallel them to get 16kw. 

That option however soon collapsed as there is a huge stock issue at the moment and the pricing of those that are available was not great. 

My second option was to get a DEYE 8kw, slightly cheaper than the Sunsynk but would not be able to be paralleled with the Sunsynk (I assume anyway) but I quickly disgarded that option as I have been leaning towards a 16kw upgrade in any case. 

So the final option that I settled on was getting a 16KW DEYE inverter, I can upgrade to a 16kw and will sell my Sunsynk 8kw when it comes back from repair. 

Would just like to put a BIG Shout out to @Leshen who organised the inverter for me and I was able to collect it from him within a matter of hours. Thank you Leshen, I really appreciate the effort. 

Switching over from the Sunsyk to the DEYE was relatively painless and I just needed to be careful with mounting the DEYE so as to not mount it too high on the wall and make sure that the cables would all reach the connection points. 

I have noticed a few big differences to the Sunsynk 8kw

• Huge power connectors in comparison to the 8kw
• Non-Essential loads are handled slightly differently and are not connected to the AUX port. Non-essential loads are left on the grid side of the connection to the inverter and a CT clamp is installed between the non-essential loads and the grid so that the inverter can essentially back feed just enough power to the grid  to feed the non-essential load without actually sending power back into the Grid. 
• The inverter has a CT clamp built in to control back feed into the grid if you are not using non-essential loads. 

Just need to get my battery connections upgraded so I can pull the necessary amps for 16kw, otherwise all good 

Edited April 10, 20231 yr by Sc00bs

16kW is a beast, lucky you. All connections can be essential. 😄

Works out quite a bit cheaper than having 2 x 8kw's 

 

and gives me a 3rd MPPT controller if I want to add more panels (I do) 

So, my cable heats up to 38.5c pushing 150A through it.

Thinking I am going to be upgrading some cables 🙂 

 

18 minutes ago, Sc00bs said:

So, my cable heats up to 38.5c pushing 150A through it.

Thinking I am going to be upgrading some cables 🙂 

 

That's a useful device.. Link please? 

46 minutes ago, Sc00bs said:

So, my cable heats up to 38.5c pushing 150A through it.

That is hardly more than body temperature...perfectly fine for 150A. How many amps do you want to run continuous?

  

15 hours ago, abd7 said:

That's a useful device.. Link please? 

https://www.flir.eu/products/dm285/ 

15 hours ago, iiznh said:

That is hardly more than body temperature...perfectly fine for 150A. How many amps do you want to run continuous?

  

160A is 8kw and really doubt I will be pulling more than that from the batteries. 

Thanks @iiznh sounds like I am good then 🙂 

5 minutes ago, Sc00bs said:

160A is 8kw and really doubt I will be pulling more than that from the batteries. 

Yes you are good

The cable size is directly related to the fuse size, as long as the fuse will melt before the cable does you are good. You can easily do 8KW continuous if you are only reaching 38 degrees and plenty more in short bursts. The fuses can also allow more current than their rating as long as it is short bursts.

If you get an EV and charge at 13KW continuous you might need to check again

19 minutes ago, iiznh said:

Yes you are good

The cable size is directly related to the fuse size, as long as the fuse will melt before the cable does you are good. You can easily do 8KW continuous if you are only reaching 38 degrees and plenty more in short bursts. The fuses can also allow more current than their rating as long as it is short bursts.

If you get an EV and charge at 13KW continuous you might need to check again

I have a 160A fuse so all good