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4.8 kwh 0.5C battery -- should lights dim at 2 kw?


headward

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I have Dyness A48100 +  5kw LuxPower LXP

Discharge limits are set to 100% and 60 amps.

When I use microwave or air frying, certain lights go very dim, and the appliance makes slight revving sound instead of constant hum as usual.

My installer is trying to tell me, of course the lights will dim when you use the microwave or air fryer because you are getting close to the amp limit of the battery.  Don't use any "heavy" appliances during load shedding.

Is this correct, and Dyness's 0.5C is basically false advertising, or am I being scammed into accepting malfunctioning battery or inverter?

 

Edited by headward
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  • headward changed the title to 4.8 kwh 0.5C battery -- should lights dim at 2 kw?
8 hours ago, headward said:

I have Dyness A48100 +  5kw LuxPower LXP

Discharge limits are set to 100% and 60 amps.

When I use microwave or air frying, certain lights go very dim, and the appliance makes slight revving sound instead of constant hum as usual.

My installer is trying to tell me, of course the lights will dim when you use the microwave or air fryer because you are getting close to the amp limit of the battery.  Don't use any "heavy" appliances during load shedding.

Is this correct, and Dyness's 0.5C is basically false advertising, or am I being scammed into accepting malfunctioning battery or inverter?

 

A microwave or kettle uses 2000W. That is also around the max that your battery should discharge at 0.5C . So any additional load would be affected. 

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23 minutes ago, Chris_S said:

A microwave or kettle uses 2000W. That is also around the max that your battery should discharge at 0.5C . So any additional load would be affected. 

and that is excluding whatever the house is drawing already as well.

Recommended current is 50A so I reckon the battery is probably right up against it. 

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9 hours ago, headward said:

I have Dyness A48100 +  5kw LuxPower LXP

Discharge limits are set to 100% and 60 amps.

When I use microwave or air frying, certain lights go very dim, and the appliance makes slight revving sound instead of constant hum as usual.

My installer is trying to tell me, of course the lights will dim when you use the microwave or air fryer because you are getting close to the amp limit of the battery.  Don't use any "heavy" appliances during load shedding.

Is this correct, and Dyness's 0.5C is basically false advertising, or am I being scammed into accepting malfunctioning battery or inverter?

 

Your installer is not wrong. Dyness is not doing false advertising. You are not being scammed.

Sorry, but you just have flawed expectations about the capabilities of a 5kWh 0.5C battery as opposed to a 1C battery, and you need to do some more research on it. If you search the forum there should be a number of discussions on the topic already.

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Thanks for replies so far, but I see I should have been more specific

My microwave + rest of the house total 1.45 to 1.5 KW.   For a 50V battery that should be 30 amps, right?

Someone said recommended amps is 50.  Is 30 amps really considered "right up against" the limit??   How is that not false advertising?

This is not a case of lights flicking.  I understand that is normal.  This is a case of lights going 50% brightness for as long as the microwave (or whatever) is using power.

Installer originally told me the battery should be able to do 3600 kw in bursts, but doing that for too many minutes will overheat it.

 

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41 minutes ago, headward said:

Thanks for replies so far, but I see I should have been more specific

My microwave + rest of the house total 1.45 to 1.5 KW.   For a 50V battery that should be 30 amps, right?

Someone said recommended amps is 50.  Is 30 amps really considered "right up against" the limit??   How is that not false advertising?

This is not a case of lights flicking.  I understand that is normal.  This is a case of lights going 50% brightness for as long as the microwave (or whatever) is using power.

Installer originally told me the battery should be able to do 3600 kw in bursts, but doing that for too many minutes will overheat it.

 

So to clarify - your total load during loadshedding when you switch on the microwave is 1.5kw? That seems low and you are right at 1.5A it shouldn't impact the battery or other items. My microwave alone is 2kw and that was the perspective I was commenting on - perhaps there is more in the inverter settings that could be impacting this

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It rather looks to me that the problem of dimming lights is in the inverter. You didn't specify what it is. Drop of battery voltage due to load down to drop out limit should not impact AC output.

My microwave also draws only about 800W. When in battery mode, switching on a strong load causes a very little flicker of lights but no dimming on my system.

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33 minutes ago, Beat said:

It rather looks to me that the problem of dimming lights is in the inverter. You didn't specify what it is. Drop of battery voltage due to load down to drop out limit should not impact AC output.

My microwave also draws only about 800W. When in battery mode, switching on a strong load causes a very little flicker of lights but no dimming on my system.

Its a Luxpower 5kw LXP

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image.thumb.png.7a2f9ef1ec70e7aa8ddec4296132979f.png

 

Sorry edited had the wrong sheet.

50A x 48V = 2.4kW

 

The inverter has a 80A discharge so thats fine and well within the 1.5kW.

 

This batt however looks like it is a 48V and rated discharge current 30A, 30A x 48V = 1.44kW

Edited by Eurard
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3 hours ago, GreenFields said:

Your installer is not wrong. Dyness is not doing false advertising. You are not being scammed.

Sorry, but you just have flawed expectations about the capabilities of a 5kWh 0.5C battery as opposed to a 1C battery, and you need to do some more research on it. If you search the forum there should be a number of discussions on the topic already.

Sorry to disagree with you, the issue here has got nothing to do with 0.5C of the battery. The AC side of the inverter and the DC side are two, completely, separate sides, what can happen is that you will get around 2400w if you discharge your battery at 50A. That 2k4W minus losses, is what is available to use on the AC side. So if your load is more than 2400w, your battery will trip/cut off, not dim the lights. 

@headward I run the similar set up at my rental property with only one second hand Pylontech US2000, same inverter. I'm the one who installed and commissioned the system. Tested it and overloaded it to see how it reacts and believe me, my lights do not dim because of one US2000 which is 0.5C battery. There must be something wrong with the inverter assuming you have BMS comms connected 

 

image.thumb.png.5ba6857d7b7934b24f99a9682eed2d76.png

Edited by hoohloc
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2 hours ago, headward said:

My microwave + rest of the house total 1.45 to 1.5 KW.   For a 50V battery that should be 30 amps, right?

That figure sounds a bit light, to be honest. In the wee hours of the morning, when nothing is actually happening in my home, it can draw as much as 300W. I'd expect a microwave to add another 1.5Kw to that. 

But anyway, I wouldn't expect dimming lights if you get close to the battery's limit, I'd expect the battery to trip once it hits the limit (in your case the battery will trip before the inverter). So I think the problem lies with your inverter or with your wiring. 

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Thanks, it looks like Beat, hoohloc and Bobstar all guessed right about it being related to the inverter --   the installer has upgraded the firmware and reset a bunch of settings and the problem seems to be fixed.  (Apparently Luxpower settings cause confusing results you wouldn't expect?)

Thanks for so many quick responses

 

Edited by headward
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I spoke too soon.  Once again, light go dim and appliances make funny sound, at at least 1.5 KW.

It was fine when first installed.  It was fine for two or three days after the installer upgraded the firmware.

Installer denies there is any issue because the inverter is not giving fault codes

Any ideas how to diagnose whether the issue is inverter or battery comms?  Something objective that can prove without wiggle room that *something* in the system is either faulty or misconfigured?

 

 

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21 minutes ago, headward said:

I spoke too soon.  Once again, light go dim and appliances make funny sound, at at least 1.5 KW.

It was fine when first installed.  It was fine for two or three days after the installer upgraded the firmware.

Installer denies there is any issue because the inverter is not giving fault codes

Any ideas how to diagnose whether the issue is inverter or battery comms?  Something objective that can prove without wiggle room that *something* in the system is either faulty or misconfigured?

 

 

Do you have panels installed, and if you do, do you get the same behaviour from the lights and appliances when drawing 1.5kw and above from PV?

Generally, flickering lights are caused by voltage fluctuations or poor quality llights, not sure about dimming though. Do you have a multimeter? If you do, measure the voltage at one of the light fitttings or plug points (or better, at multiple points) while seeing this behaviour from the lights and appliances.

Humming appliances may point to low voltage which can damage certain appliances.

Edited by I84RiS
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4 minutes ago, I84RiS said:

Do you have panels installed, and if you do, do you get the same behaviour from the lights and appliances when drawing 1.5kw and above from PV?

Oh, as a way to diagnose between batter/comms vs inverter?  That would be awesome!.....  but no, no panels yet.  I am hoping to get installed soon but of course can't proceed to the next stage until this is sorted.  Unless I can find a very helpful solar installer during these crazy times....

 

Edited by headward
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18 minutes ago, headward said:

I spoke too soon.  Once again, light go dim and appliances make funny sound, at at least 1.5 KW.

It was fine when first installed.  It was fine for two or three days after the installer upgraded the firmware.

Installer denies there is any issue because the inverter is not giving fault codes

Any ideas how to diagnose whether the issue is inverter or battery comms?  Something objective that can prove without wiggle room that *something* in the system is either faulty or misconfigured?

 

 

Are you getting the same dimming of lights when you are running a resistive load? Let's say a 2kW kettle, 2-plate stove or maybe a 1.5kW toaster. Or is it only with the microwave and airfryer?

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10 hours ago, GreenFields said:

Are you getting the same dimming of lights when you are running a resistive load? Let's say a 2kW kettle, 2-plate stove or maybe a 1.5kW toaster. Or is it only with the microwave and airfryer?

Yes, lights also dim while a kettle is on

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