Jaco De Jongh Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 5 hours ago, Jaco de Jongh said: Will post it early evening. Hi Gabriel, seems like all of them are relying on you connecting hot and cold water to the machine. Although they have a temp setting, i cant see anything indicating a heating cycle. 10 KG Hisense R8k 830 wh per cycle. 6KG Bosh R3.8k 669 wh per cycle And I did not take a picture of the Defy. 10kg R? 616 wh per cycle. ___ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GVC Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 (edited) I will never buy a Defy product again. I had a fridge that only lasted 5 years which I had to re-gas twice and replaced the compressor another 2 times. I also had a 6kg Defy front loader that lasted 4 years. Replaced the heating element twice and had numerous other problems. Ironically they only started giving problems as soon as their warranty was up. Since then I switched to Bosch and have not had one problem. Edited October 4, 2018 by GVC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabriël Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 1 hour ago, Jaco de Jongh said: i cant see anything indicating a heating cycle thanks @Jaco de Jongh, lets presume their calculations are made on max efficiency, thus they would provide max water temp which is then lowered with cold water... minimal or zero use of internal element??? could that be?... if so that's quite a scam, not so / Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabriël Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 20 minutes ago, GVC said: Ironically they only started giving problems as soon as their warranty was up redundancy engineers are worth their weight in bitcoins ___ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaco De Jongh Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 9 minutes ago, gabriel said: zero use of internal element??? It seems like it. 9 minutes ago, gabriel said: if so that's quite a scam, not so I am not so sure about it. Most other washing machines works on mixing cold and hot water, i just think the manufacturers of front loaders had to adopt the same principle to remain in an energy efficient market. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabriël Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 58 minutes ago, Jaco de Jongh said: had to adopt the same principle to remain in an energy efficient market adapt or die or live with a lie [call me william for short ] Jaco De Jongh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
___ Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 16 hours ago, GVC said: Since then I switched to Bosch and have not had one problem. That's a route we also seem to be taking. When we buy new appliances, they are usually Bosch. We still have an A-rated Defy chest freezer that's giving zero problems, is now 5 years old and has paid for itself by year-2. If it breaks it won't matter too much. The only European chest-freezer maker I know of is AEG and those things are COSTLY. Bosch, as far as I can determine, makes only upright Freezers and their efficiency is simply not as good as a chest freezer. Our most-recent Defy product that got booted for a Bosch was the tumble drier. The other two non-Bosch items that remain is a Phillips Kettle (from 2002, before the name was sold to the Chinese), and a Samsung Microwave. But the conversion to Bosch is definitely a thing in my household... my wife already has her eye on a nice Bosch kettle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 (edited) I find Siemens a bit cheaper sometimes so either is good. "While Bosch and Siemens are two different brands under the same flagship company BSH established in 1967 worldwide, recently Siemens has sold all its share in BSH to Bosch, making Bosch 100% owner of BSH now" says google Edited October 5, 2018 by Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabriël Posted October 29, 2018 Author Share Posted October 29, 2018 (edited) so i received the pylon-icc cable from @Riaanh [thanks!], inserted it in the right port [plus usb on the laptop] after re-configuring icc and got no battery data on the icc dashboard. i figured ok, you'll have to switch the batteries off and on again, maybe it will send data to the icc after a 'reboot'. GROOT SKRIK, as i switched the batteries off NO LIGHT, and the axpert went dead, no display, no sound no nothing - so i switched it off and on, nothing. it was on bypass at the stage, i.e. supplying load from utility and keeping the pylons in float. i hit the changeover switch to get the house on grid and started to check the battery breaker with a volt meter [ohmage][did it blow?- no]. i then went through a battery, axpert reconnect motion but the axpert stayed as dead as a doornail. any help here guys? oh yeah, forgot to mention it is raining in vredenburg, that is VERY good news Edited October 29, 2018 by gabriel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coulomb Posted October 29, 2018 Share Posted October 29, 2018 48 minutes ago, gabriel said: i switched the batteries off NO LIGHT, and the axpert went dead, no display, no sound no nothing That part actually isn't surprising. Models manufactured at or after about 2015 don't have an AC power supply, so the processor runs off battery power. But obviously, it should come back after the battery is re-connected, assuming that the main switch at the bottom is turned on. Did you have PV power at the time the battery was disconnected? Even moderate PV panel power, if it was charging the battery, might have allowed the voltage at the inverter battery terminals to have spiked quite high, higher than the battery-side circuitry can stand. Unmodified Axperts are already operating close to the limits of their components. Do you see around 49-50 V at the battery terminals when it's all switched on? If you don't have pre-charge, then it's possible that your battery isolator has gone high resistance due to too many multi-thousand amp connects. Gabriël and Riaanh 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riaanh Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 6 hours ago, gabriel said: so i switched it off and on, nothing. Morning Gabriël After switching o battery, did you press the little red button at the bottom? On press all the LED's light up and then blackout again. Just switching on at the main on/off switch doesn't "kick" it into gear. Shout if you still have problems R Gabriël 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabriël Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 hi @Coulomb, thanks for coming on board from down under and thanks @Riaanh, i will proceed with your advice, seems to be the way to go, if i don't post after this please know the situation has been resolved! God bless ps we had cool, windy and overcast with 1mm of rain, see image Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
___ Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 1 hour ago, Riaanh said: After switching o battery, did you press the little red button at the bottom? On press all the LED's light up and then blackout again. I was about to ask the same. The startup procedure you turn on the switch on all the batteries, and then press the red button on one of them. Riaanh and Gabriël 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johandup Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 38 minutes ago, plonkster said: I was about to ask the same. The startup procedure you turn on the switch on all the batteries, and then press the red button on one of them. it is supposed to start up all the units when you press the red button on the one closest to the inverter. However, it works randomly for me. I would press the red button on all of them, wait for all the red lights to flicker and then stabilize with one red light winking. Gabriël and Riaanh 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hobson Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 You are supposed to press the red start button on the module that is the master. The master is the module with the empty link port 0 often the top module and therefore the one closest to the inverter. Gabriël 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabriël Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 (edited) thanks guys, problem sorted. @Riaanhinspected things via teamviewer and found a little bug preventing the icc to see the com port for the pylons... it kept seeing the com 3 usb port which i used some time ago with the bmv702 [a dejavu thing?] but now icc sees the pylons. BUT i still get the axpert switching back to grid in the kettle boil test BEFORE/ON reaching 50.10v and 98%soc on the pylontech readout in icc NOTWITHSTANDING my setting 12, battery to utility voltage, is set to 48v, and my setting 29 , low cut-off voltage being set at 47.5v, any ideas? ps i did not waste the water... drinking a cuppa right now Edited October 30, 2018 by gabriel xtra data Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
___ Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 2 hours ago, gabriel said: axpert switching back to grid A 3kva Multiplus-II is just over 12k now. 11w quiescent draw at night. Fixes all your legality issues as well. You KNOW you want to... :-) Chris Hobson and Gabriël 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabriël Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 44 minutes ago, plonkster said: Fixes all your legality issues but will it fix the kettle issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coulomb Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 12 hours ago, gabriel said: i still get the axpert switching back to grid in the kettle boil test BEFORE/ON reaching 50.10v and 98%soc on the pylontech readout in icc NOTWITHSTANDING my setting 12, battery to utility voltage, is set to 48v, and my setting 29 , low cut-off voltage being set at 47.5v, any ideas? If you are running unpatched firmware, or the non-LFP patched firmware, then the low voltage warning will be at the battery cutoff voltage plus 2.0 V. That would be 49.5 V in your case. When the battery low warning voltage is higher than the back to utility voltage setting, the battery low voltage will be used instead of the back to utility setting voltage, to determine whether to switch to utility or not. It's quite possible that the battery sags enough under a kettle load to reach 49.5 V from around 50.1 V. I did a quick search to see what firmware you are running (my apologies if you've told me and I forgot), and I found the posts around April where you seemed to leave it up to the supplier. I'm not totally sure that every supplier knows the advantages of Weber and Coulomb's patched firmware over factory firmware . Updating to say 73.00c will probably solve your kettle problem if you're not already running at least 73.00b. Weber and I were considering another fix for this, which would involve more patching, but we were weighed down with a brickish problem , and this has dramatically slowed progress on that front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabriël Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 29 minutes ago, Coulomb said: Updating to say 73.00c will probably solve your kettle problem if you're not already running at least 73.00b. thanks @Coulomb, i'm already running 73b, is there something later? if not the sw version it might be a setting, see attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
___ Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 14 hours ago, gabriel said: but will it fix the kettle issue? It's a hybrid. It takes the difference from the grid instead of switching over to the grid, and it doesn't switch based on the voltage (though you must take a little bit of care with the programming when you set the dynamic cut-off curve). Gabriël 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaco De Jongh Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 @gabriel. Do you have a multi meter? Try and measure the exact voltage when you do the test. I have realized lately that there is a time delay between what happens and what ICC display. It might be that the voltage is already below switch over point, but Icc is still updating the value, so what you see is not accurate at the given time. Re-do the test , while measuring the actual voltage. Gabriël and ___ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coulomb Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 5 hours ago, gabriel said: i'm already running 73b, is there something later? As I hinted earlier, we have some code written but not debugged that will crudely compensate the battery current measurement by the load current and a guess of internal resistance. But we ran into a brick wall, (bricked the inverter) when testing. To make matters much worse, it happened to be a borrowed machine as well. We're working on something that will help us develop patches in a safer manner. So, hopefully in the next few weeks or so. Mark and Gabriël 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coulomb Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 On 2018/10/31 at 2:00 PM, gabriel said: if not the sw version it might be a setting, see attached I'd reduce parameter/setting 13 (back to battery voltage setting) down to 50 V. I think it's taking 20 minutes for mains charging to push the battery from 48-ish to 51-ish volts. 51 V is 3.4 VPC, which is after the long voltage plateau. 50 V is 3.33 VPC, right on the plateau, so it should switch over much quicker. That's assuming that you're preferring not to use mains/utility power whenever possible. If you ever wanted to store up some mains energy, say knowing that a storm or scheduled outage is coming soon, then bump up that setting temporarily. Gabriël 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabriël Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 3 hours ago, Coulomb said: I'd reduce parameter/setting 13 (back to battery voltage setting) down to 50 V hi @Chris Hobson, you being the pylontech fundi, would you concur? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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