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Hi Everyone

So quick BIO: I'm from Centurion, in the IT line of work (although was out of work for a few months now), hobbies include some petrol-headedness, going pew-pew, and vintage PC's.

I thought I'd start some research on starting on my solar setup, but noticed that there is quite a bit to a solar setup, even though my idea is to start small, say, 2x 150-200w panels, mppt charge controller, 600w pure sine inverter, and possibly 2x 105AH batteries was what I had in mind. Down the rabbit hole we go I reckon.

So first few questions while I try and learn more from the threads on the forum.

1. Any good how-to guides either here or on boobtoob that will assist me in a more structured format?

2. I have looked around at the following online shops, any other I can have a gander at? alternagy, communica, inverter warehous, solaradvice, sustainable, sinetech, the power store.

Cheers!

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Welcome Minerva.

If you are Axpert minded, then I'm outa here. 😉 
If you are Victron / ABB / Goodwe / Solis minded, then there is still hope. 🙂 

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1 hour ago, georgelza said:

TTT, please suggest a 5Kva Victron model, that you would approve, and what would/should the expected cost be.

I'd prefer one that can take. Solar, Battery (Lithium or Gel), Utility (with Generator source also)

building charge controller.

Me, I would go for a Multigrid 3kva as a start with an array to match. Why? Regulations are coming your way unless you are going off-grid.

I don't like built in charge controllers, if something goes, that part is worked on, not the entire setup. Match the controller to the array.

Then use the above for a +- a year because once you go solar you become acutely aware of where your power goes, graphs and all that, because a lot of shaving takes place.

And then most of the loads are below 1kw, peaks just increase costs and the savings are not so much, with the most expensive loads when all is asleep - over a period of 1 year. 🙂 

If after this one year you want / need more power, get a 2nd Multigrid and a 2nd controller.

Lithium batteries and generator - last thing you buy - because you are going to really focus on your power usage to make it fit the lithium bank.

That's my advice.

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O, the 5kva Multigrid is coming ... but as I said, CPT is leading regulations, but each and every city has them already in place, just not enforced.

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On 2019/03/23 at 3:39 PM, The Terrible Triplett said:

Welcome Minerva.

If you are Axpert minded, then I'm outa here. 😉 
If you are Victron / ABB / Goodwe / Solis minded, then there is still hope. 🙂 

Yeah, I was looking at some of the blue equipment, so might swing that way ;)

Your other reply in this thread interests me a lot. Just for clarification then, when going a bit bigger, get something like a multigrid, and panels only, no battery backup, monitor and then work from there, did I follow correctly?

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Just now, Minerva10210 said:

Yeah, I was looking at some of the blue equipment, so might swing that way ;)

Excellent. Lets continue to chat. 🙂 

1 minute ago, Minerva10210 said:

Your other reply in this thread interests me a lot. Just for clarification then, when going a bit bigger, get something like a multigrid, and panels only, no battery backup, monitor and then work from there, did I follow correctly?

To do it right, legal and all that, with little to no worries about the future, with options to double up on everything IF one needs to:

  • Victron MultiPlus II Inverter 48/3000 with MK3-USB 
  • Victron BlueSolar MPPT regulator max 150/100 or 150.35 or 15/45 or 15/60 ... 
  • VE.Direct to USB cable for MPPT (1.8m)
  • VenusGX 
  • Carlo Gavazzi with RS485 to USB - 5m 

Then you need panels and batteries.

Not cheap but from where I sit, not having ever to replace anything Victron due to age (just stupidity) since 2012 with me being all for a small battery banks where I match the load to the bank, not the bank to the load, being grid tied, I save from the 1st watt at sunup till the last watt at sunset, not even knowing Eskom is down during the day as the Victron ESS software (on the VenusGX) cleverly sorts the power between solar / batteries / Eskom behind the scenes. See, daytime I don't use batteries if their is sun, as the panels power it all. 

Peaks are over to Eskom, as it is cheaper than bigger inverter, more panels etc.

If I had Pylontechs I would have run them optimally to save more day / evenings and if there is loadshedding, set ESS to keep them fully charged to cater for the shedding.

Having 4.5 year old Trojan's batts, I now run them "Keep fully charged" to save them a wee bit longer. Want that 8-10 years out of the bank IF I can. 

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Ouch, ja, so as you mention, that is quite expensive starting point.

Is there merit in doing something as per my original post? Looking at other threads here on recommendations of having a small "critical load" section that one runs off a much smaller full setup, including batts for overnight cover stuff like internet (obviously ;) ) alarm system, elect fence & gate? Also a thought I've pondered, most of these devices run off their own 12v7ah batteries, so if one were to feed them all from the 12v output side directly instead of using an inverter to try and avoid losses?

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56 minutes ago, Minerva10210 said:

Is there merit in doing something as per my original post?

Jip, a UPS, about R8k for a +-2kva with 2 x 105ah batteries for 2-4 hour outages for <500w loads.

Or a Axpert (3-5kva) used as a UPS, no panels.

Connected to selected circuits that you need powered.

Moment you go solar, the costs go up, better batteries etc.

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3 hours ago, Minerva10210 said:

Ouch, ja, so as you mention, that is quite expensive starting point.

Is there merit in doing something as per my original post? Looking at other threads here on recommendations of having a small "critical load" section that one runs off a much smaller full setup, including batts for overnight cover stuff like internet (obviously ;) ) alarm system, elect fence & gate? Also a thought I've pondered, most of these devices run off their own 12v7ah batteries, so if one were to feed them all from the 12v output side directly instead of using an inverter to try and avoid losses?

Hi All,

New to the forum, apologies for no introduction as yet.

I’m also interested in the answer to the above question relating to 12v lights/gate Motors/Fence etc.

Is there any clear benefit in running these seperately as per the OP’s question?

However, without an inverter, so purely on a 12v battery setup with solar panel and charge controller?

Edited by Johan_01
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4 hours ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

Excellent. Lets continue to chat. 🙂 

This forum has grown so much in the last week, I can no longer read/answer everything. At the moment I pretty much scan for the word Axpert, Mecer, RCT (and anything in the ICC thread) and when only those are left unread I use the very handy "mark site read" option. Better to apply efforts where they make the most sense 🙂

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1 minute ago, plonkster said:

... I can no longer read/answer everything. At the moment I pretty much scan for the word Axpert, Mecer, RCT (and anything in the ICC thread) and when only those are left unread I use the very handy "mark site read" option. Better to apply efforts where they make the most sense 🙂

That makes two of us!!! (cwl)

I focus on the newbies and anything Victron related, moment newbie indicates preference to the "dark side", I move on ... till they see the "light". 🙂 

Find it fascinating though that with all that is going on around being legal, COCT but the first to enforce it, us having been dissing it for MONTHS, we knowing that grid tied is such a huge motivator for a better ROI ito solar, Eskom be done with hybrid inverters, that people STILL go for that "cheap brand" that has no "papers", is sold as "off grid", with no supplier support and firmware still buggy. 🙂 

Must also admit it it getting too much to answer all questions, asked in different ways, with the same end result.

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1 hour ago, Johan_01 said:

However, without an inverter, so purely on a 12v battery setup with solar panel and charge controller?

The only major restriction is the lengths of the wires from batts to 12v device. Voltage drop becomes a problem.

By increasing the wires thickness to mitigate the voltage drop, increases costs substantially.

Calcs like this helps: http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html

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On 2019/03/25 at 10:49 AM, DeepBass9 said:

A ring feed can mitigate the wire thickness problem to some extent, if the position of the equipment lends itself to that, rather than having each thing on its own dedicated wire.

I was also wondering about this, as I am aware of the voltage drop on the lower end. Unfortunately my setup will not really lend it to 12v only.

 

Thanks for all the welcomes and recommendations thus far guys, appreciated.

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Sticking to 220V is much easier since everything is already in place. You just need an inverter to step up from your batteries to 220V. 

IF you decide to run 12V along with 220v, just keep in mind that you can't (and shouldn't) run 12V and 220V cables in the same conduit. So you would also need to install extra light switches. 

With a 220V inverter in place, you can now also use the TV, fridge, etc from the battery bank when needed. 

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