Coulomb 1,063 Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 9 hours ago, Kawaman said: My Batteries are Deltec 105ah sealed Lead Acid 1250 Highcycle Mmm. Those appear to me to be starting batteries: CCA = Cold Crank Amps, for example. Great for starting a 4x4, not so good for energy storage. The datasheet has almost nothing of value for solar applications. I'd call your battery 102 Ah (the 20h rate capacity) x 2 strings = 204 Ah. Maximum charge current should be about 0.15C, so 204 x 0.15 = 30.6 A. So reduce the maximum charge current and maximum utility charge current to 30 A. 25 A would be more cautious, but unfortunately isn't an option. Leave the charging voltages at the defaults and hope for the best. If you use patched firmware (73.00e or 72.70c), then you will at least avoid undercharging the battery (very bad for longevity) due to the premature float bugs in factory firmware. You cant use an equalising charge with these (they are sealed), so the whole reason for going to a different firmware with equalisation was just wrong. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kawaman 7 Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 @Coulomb OK, makes perfect sense, I should still have firmware 73.00e on my laptop after the flash I will then lower the charge current to 30A. Thank you for your valued advice Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kawaman 7 Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 @Coulomb OK, Firmware Flashed to 73.00e reduced the maximum charge current and maximum utility charge current to 30 A. Bulk Charging Voltage (C.V. voltage) remains at 56.4v Float Charging Voltage remains at 54v In the Pics Please check: Back to Discharge 54v ? Back to Grid Voltage 48v ? Battery cut-off voltage 44.5v ? The white lines you see in the WatchPower pics are my 12v LED light strips in my garage Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coulomb 1,063 Posted December 18, 2019 Share Posted December 18, 2019 (edited) 8 hours ago, Kawaman said: OK, Firmware Flashed to 73.00e reduced the maximum charge current and maximum utility charge current to 30 A. Good! Quote Bulk Charging Voltage (C.V. voltage) remains at 56.4v You might want to increase that a little in winter, to say 56.8 V. Leave it as is for summer. Quote Float Charging Voltage remains at 54v That could go as high as 55.2 V in winter, but it's nowhere near as important as the setting above. [ Edit: leave as-is for summer, or as long as the temperature is often above 25°C. ] Quote Back to Discharge 54v ? That one's largely a preference. Adjust it up if you want more utility use and keeping your battery SOC higher, adjust lower if you want to reduce utility use. This one and the next one depend on your battery internal resistance, which will vary with time. Revisit in a year or two. Quote Back to Grid Voltage 48v ? That seems OK, but again there is some preference factor. You might want 49 or 50 V to keep your battery SOC higher (for longer life, but getting less "value" from the battery). Quote Battery cut-off voltage 44.5v ? I'd increase that to 46.0 V (11.5 V per nominal 12 V module). Adjust up or down if you get nuisance cut-off when the battery seems healthy, or if you're worried that the battery is getting too low in SOC before the inverter-charger cuts off. Edited December 18, 2019 by Coulomb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kawaman 7 Posted December 18, 2019 Share Posted December 18, 2019 @Coulomb, Thank you for all your effort and patience in helping me sort out my Solar system once and for all. I have purchased 3 more Solar Panels to add to my existing array of 9 255W panels, sadly I was unable to purchase 255W but 265W but (I am told) will denominate to 255W, the full compliment will add up to 3060W (probably never reach that figure) I will install after the silly season as relatives are starting to arrive. Coulomb, to you and your family have a fantastic Christmas (please overindulge) and a very prosperous and eventful New Year Warm Regards Budgie Burgess (Kawaman) anunnaki 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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