Posted February 14, 20205 yr Hi All, I have just installed a Growatt SPF 5000TL HVM 5kVA/5kW connected to a Dyness 9.6kWh Lithium Battery, however the communications (via the BMS connection using the RJ45 cable) does not appear to work. When I set the battery type to “Li” (Lithium), the inverter stops and the error code 20 (BMS communication error) shows on the screen. I'm assuming this is because a standard fly-lead that was shipped with this kit... simply will not cut it. I can see in the product manuals, the pins for the Inverter and the Battery are described (although I have some confusion with their descriptions) 1. Does someone have an accurate wiring diagram of how that cable must be wired? 2. Also, the manual says the Dyness Battery factory default communications protocol is CAN, but the sticker on the side of the battery, says RS485. So what is it? and how would you change it to RS485 (there are no DIP switches or anything on it)? 3. And finally, the Growatt offers 4 Protocols once you select "Li"... but there is literally no information about these. What protocol number must I use? Thanks
February 18, 20205 yr Would also like to know the correct config for these 2. Did you get any further?
February 18, 20205 yr Author Well, yes... in one of the posts in this forum, someone mentioned Dan, from DC Rebel (https://www.dcrebel.co.za/). He was extremely helpful! Firstly, you need to know that the Dyness 9.6kWh "Powerbox" as they call it, is nothing more than 4 "Dyness 2.4kWh LiFePO4 Batteries", packed in a lovely wall mountable case, with the batteries mounted two at the top, and two at the bottom. To access the DIP switched, you need to unscrew the white case: The (unreleased) documentation says the master battery (bottom front) must be set to 0110 in order to talk to the Growatt-SPF. However, this didn't seem to make any difference to me. Dan was kind enough to bring round a "special" cable for the Dyness to the Growatt (an orange one), however we didn't use the "Li" settings of the battery type (menu option 05) that requires the BMS communication to be in place anyway. We used the User settings for battery type (menu option 05), then: 19 (Charge Voltage) = 52Volts 20 (Float Voltage) = 52 Volts 21 (Max Dischange) = 45 Volts With these settings in place I have not had any more issues - except it can be a bit strange as the outer case lights go orang some times, Dan says its fine, he called it something like "balancing". It's been in place a few days now, and after I put these settings in, it all seems to be working fine.
February 19, 20205 yr Thanks! Had a long chat with Dan last night as well and he took me through the whole process and we were all systems green in about 30mins! Excellent service and remote support. We setup my settings the same as you mention above. My system was setup correctly (except for the above 3) , it was then just stuck on Error 08, which needed to be cleared and then the batteries needed to balance themselves after some draining 1st. Edited February 19, 20205 yr by Tsa
February 21, 20205 yr @ConradDeWet How are things running so far your side? Have you seen any discrepancies between SOC of the batteries in the APP\Web vs what is physically displayed on the batteries? What I am seeing my side is for instance in the morning after running from batteries all night my App\Web would indicate SOC at 75% or 50% for instance. However when checking on the batteries themselves, I can see that only the last led is still green on both batteries(meaning less than 25% capacity and what I am expecting). Late morning\noon I get the reverse. The PV has fully charged the batteries. All lights are green (full) and even the red ALM flashes, which I understood indicates overcharging and is its internal protection. However App\Web still shows 50/75% SOC and charging (holding on to the PV), which at that stage has dropped from 1800W+ generation to <50W generation and indicating as "charging" the batteries. Meanwhile grid still supplies the load of the house! Only way to resolve this is to shut off PV, kill grid and let the batteries take over the load. Within minutes the red led alarms clear on the batteries, app\web shows 100%. Switch on PV and grid again and PV immediately takes over the load again producing its 1800W+. All normal from there until the next morning again.
February 21, 20205 yr Author Yes, i have something similar - while i don't have any PV connected yet, the Web/App reports almost complete garbage. According to the Web/App, my batteries are bouncing around between 100% and 50% almost all the time, regardless of the grid/charging/discharging. The LCD display though appears to represent the battery correctly - In the few times i was looking at the battery during load-shedding, i did notice one bar off the battery icon on the Inverter LCD. I read somewhere (it may have been on this site), that when you set the battery type to "Li", and then "Profile 2" (menu 36), it springs into life of accuracy... and starts showing things in accurate percentages. For now... im just leaving it the way it is. The fact that you have to use different combination of settings to any documentation supplied probably means if you left it up to the inverter to have the right internal settings to get the battery work... well, lets just say... you go first.
February 21, 20205 yr 21 minutes ago, ConradDeWet said: For now... im just leaving it the way it is. The fact that you have to use different combination of settings to any documentation supplied probably means if you left it up to the inverter to have the right internal settings to get the battery work... well, lets just say... you go first. Yip, we are on the same page here For now I am running with it as is, until someone can supply more accurate\verified information.
March 23, 20205 yr @ConradDeWet I take it you have seen this thread which resolves this issue. Leaving this here for anyone else also having the same issues. Says Pylontech, but from pg 2 onwards we started discussing Dyness as well. https://powerforum.co.za/topic/5164-growatt-inverter-pylontech-batteries-bms-comms-guide/page/2/
July 18, 20204 yr I have the same setup, Growatt 5000TL and Dyness 9.6kwh. When i set nr. 19 on 52v i get a the second green light from left on the battery flashing red. I then set it way back to 49.8v and the red flashing light disappeared. Two months later, on same setting i have a nr. 2 red flashing light again, and nr. 4 light is down (off) in the morning. Suggestions and advice please.
March 30, 20223 yr Hi guys. What is the best app to use for monitoring a growatt inverter and dyness battery?
March 30, 20223 yr I have a problem with my WiFi router during the day when my system is using only solar. The router does not sync during this time. Anyone know what the problem could be?
May 12, 20223 yr On 2020/02/21 at 1:38 PM, ConradDeWet said: Yes, i have something similar - while i don't have any PV connected yet, the Web/App reports almost complete garbage. According to the Web/App, my batteries are bouncing around between 100% and 50% almost all the time, regardless of the grid/charging/discharging. The LCD display though appears to represent the battery correctly - In the few times i was looking at the battery during load-shedding, i did notice one bar off the battery icon on the Inverter LCD. I read somewhere (it may have been on this site), that when you set the battery type to "Li", and then "Profile 2" (menu 36), it springs into life of accuracy... and starts showing things in accurate percentages. For now... im just leaving it the way it is. The fact that you have to use different combination of settings to any documentation supplied probably means if you left it up to the inverter to have the right internal settings to get the battery work... well, lets just say... you go first. did you ever sort this out or are you just leaving it as is ?
July 23, 20222 yr I have a growatt 5kw inverter with two 4.8kw A48100 Dyness batteries. What should the master and slave dip switch settings be? Edited July 23, 20222 yr by Farhaan
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