Posted February 18, 20205 yr Hi, I installed this backup system. I need some feedback on the installation to ensure everything is OK. I used: KODAK Solar Off-Grid Inverter King with UPS 5kW 48V (Axpert) 4 x 240Ah omnipower batteries. 50mm2 Battery Cable 80A Fuse on + battery cable Inverter Settings (Axpert): Program 1 : Utility first (default) Program 2 : 20A Program 5 : User Program 11 : 20A Program 26 : 56.4V Program 27 : 54.8V Program 29 : 44.60V
February 18, 20205 yr On 2020/02/18 at 6:57 PM, solarman said: 80A Fuse on + battery cable That fuse is too light, unless you intend limiting your inverter to 3500 W maximum (70% of rated power). I'd use 100 A or 125 A. However, limiting the power will be kinder to your battery. Quote Program 2 : 20A Program 11 : 20A Those are a bit light. Your battery is rated at 200 Ah (at the 10 hour rate), so that's 0.1 C. That's cautious, but the battery seems to be an AGM type, which I believe can take a bit more current. I note that the datasheet states that the maximum charge current is 50 A. I'll leave it to lead acid experts to say what these maximum charge current settings should be set to. Quote Program 26 : 56.4V I calculate 57.0 for 30°C as follows: 14.4 V per module or 57.6 total. But for 30°C take off 5 mV/°C x 5°C x 24 cells = 600 mV = 0.6 V; 57.6 - 0.6 = 57.0. I'm assuming that 30°C is a not-uncommon temperature in summer. You can increase the voltage in winter. Quote Program 27 : 54.8V I calculate as follows: 13.65 V @ 25°C x 4 modules = 54.6 V. But for 30°C take off 3 mV/°C x 5°C x 24 cells = 360 mV = 0.36 V. So 54.6 - 0.36 = 54.24 V, closest allowable value would be 54.2 V [ edit: was 52.2 V ]. Quote Program 29 : 44.60V That would let you run your loads for the longest time, but would murder your batteries quickly. Unless you have something else to save the battery from such a large discharge, I'd put this at 48.0 V (possibly the highest that the inverter will allow). If you want a different balance between surviving load shedding and battery life, choose a value in between. Edited February 22, 20205 yr by Coulomb
February 18, 20205 yr Author Thank you sir! I appreciate you helping me out here. Do you have a link or previous post explaining settings 26 & 27 in more details?
February 19, 20205 yr 18 hours ago, solarman said: Do you have a link or previous post explaining settings 26 & 27 in more details? No, but perhaps I should have stated where the numbers originated from. From the bottom left corner of this datasheet: I note that a 48 V battery (4 nominally 12 V modules in series) has 24 cells; each lead acid cell is nominally 2.0 V.
February 21, 20205 yr Author On 2020/02/18 at 2:19 PM, Coulomb said: That fuse is too light, unless you intend limiting your inverter to 3500 W maximum (70% of rated power). I'd use 100 A or 125 A. However, limiting the power will be kinder to your battery. Those are a bit light. Your battery is rated at 200 Ah (at the 10 hour rate), so that's 0.1 C. That's cautious, but the battery seems to be an AGM type, which I believe can take a bit more current. I note that the datasheet states that the maximum charge current is 50 A. I'll leave it to lead acid experts to say what these maximum charge current settings should be set to. I calculate 57.0 for 30°C as follows: 14.4 V per module or 57.6 total. But for 30°C take off 5 mV/°C x 5°C x 24 cells = 600 mV = 0.6 V; 57.6 - 0.6 = 57.0. I'm assuming that 30°C is a not-uncommon temperature in summer. You can increase the voltage in winter. I calculate as follows: 13.65 V @ 25°C x 4 modules = 54.6 V. But for 30°C take off 3 mV/°C x 5°C x 24 cells = 360 mV = 0.36 V. So 54.6 - 0.36 = 54.24 V, closest allowable value would be 52.2 V. That would let you run your loads for the longest time, but would murder your batteries quickly. Unless you have something else to save the battery from such a large discharge, I'd put this at 48.0 V (possibly the highest that the inverter will allow). If you want a different balance between surviving load shedding and battery life, choose a value in between. I have changed my setting accordingly. My system batteries measures 52.5V with a multimeter. So all seems to be in order? Edited February 21, 20205 yr by solarman
February 21, 20205 yr 1 hour ago, solarman said: My system batteries measures 52.5V with a multimeter. So all seems to be in order? That's an average of 13.1 V per 12 V module. That's quite high if the battery isn't being charged, and astounding if it's supplying a load. If it's supposed to be float charging, it's quite low. If it's supposed to be bulk charging, it's OK only if it's just started bulk charging. In short: one reading without knowing more about the system state doesn't tell much.
February 21, 20205 yr Author 45 minutes ago, Coulomb said: That's an average of 13.1 V per 12 V module. That's quite high if the battery isn't being charged, and astounding if it's supplying a load. If it's supposed to be float charging, it's quite low. If it's supposed to be bulk charging, it's OK only if it's just started bulk charging. In short: one reading without knowing more about the system state doesn't tell much. This is after charging for 10 hours since use, pure backup system, no solar. so I assume float charging then.
February 22, 20205 yr 11 hours ago, solarman said: This is after charging for 10 hours since use, pure backup system, no solar. so I assume float charging then. Arrgh! My bad. I made a typo in my response to your setting 27, float battery voltage. It should be 54.2 V, not 52.2 V. So change setting 27 to 54.2 V, and the battery voltage reading at the same stage should be close to 54.2 V. Then everything should be in order. Sorry for the stuff up.
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