Switching on outside lights with alarm system

[Fuenkli 166]

i would like the alarm system to switch on the outside lights if an alarm is triggered. The alarm system (Paradox) has programmable PGM outputs (12V 700mA) i could use to generate the required "on" signal. How do i use this signal to switch on the lights? The system would have to operate wireless. 

[Jeanrooy 0]

You can use the PGM signal to trigger a relay such as the 12V HDS Pole Relay from Alarmtec.

The relay can handle 10amp 220v cercuit.

Its not wireless but simple to install.

[Fuenkli 166]

13 hours ago, Jeanrooy said:

Its not wireless but simple to install

thanks for the info. If i can not find a wireless solution i will consider this. 

[Thunderdolt 10]

You could be creative with these products. Connect a latching relay to this;

https://qwikswitch.co.za/collections/products/products/qwik-switch-5-switch-input-module

which will wirelessly switch on your lights that are connected to this;

https://qwikswitch.co.za/collections/products/products/s5-relay

And if your lights are on separate circuits it looks like an easy way of achieving your objective.

I have used the standard kit and it worked well for me.

[Fuenkli 166]

On 2020/07/15 at 2:14 PM, Thunderdolt said:

You could be creative with these products

thanks for the info. Do you think the QuickSwitch transmitter will accept the signal from the alarm PGM output? 

[Fuenkli 166]

On 2020/07/15 at 2:14 PM, Thunderdolt said:

You could be creative with these products

thanks for the info. Do you think the QuickSwitch transmitter will accept the signal from the alarm PGM output? 

[introverter 116]

On 2020/07/14 at 3:03 PM, Fuenkli said:

i would like the alarm system to switch on the outside lights if an alarm is triggered. The alarm system (Paradox) has programmable PGM outputs (12V 700mA) i could use to generate the required "on" signal. How do i use this signal to switch on the lights? The system would have to operate wireless. 

If you are still looking into this 

I am pretty sure there are likely neat out of the box options  or much more elegant ways from the more electronically gifted but if wanting to MaCgyver/Frankenstein it I would have tried the following (you will need to have 12V close to you light though and/or 230V close to the alarm output and solder a wire or two).

one option would be WiFi switches like the sonoffs and such, but without going full tilt and adding home assistant (running on a RPi etc). I do not see it working without more parts. I do think it will trigger the light more reliably than option 2. In short, get a remote receiver like a Centurion Nova receiver, wire the alarm output as 12V power source to the receiver, adapt a basic sonoff so that you have wires from the sonoff's physical button to the Nova Receiver relay wired as Normally Closed - when the alarm output triggers, it powers up the Nova Receiver and with the relay wired a NC it "presses" the button on the sonoff... a second sonoff acting as your light switch receives input, via home assistant that a button was pressed which requires sonoff2 to switch on... and stay on...or switch off until X or Z... etc.). Stepping down the alarm's 12v to 3.3V and bypassing the Nova receiver completely could also be an option.

Option 2:

wire an actual button remote (like a nova, 1/2/4 button remote) again on the alarm output (those tiny remote batteries are 12v so I think 12V from the alarm should not kill the remote (like it will if you wire it directly to a sonoff which runs 3.3V). Have a Nova receiver paired with the "alarm light remote" at/near your light. The Nova receiver has a 10A 220V AC rated relay which you wire NO as the light switch (but for this you obviously need a separate permanently connected 12V supply for the receiver at the light). When the alarm output triggers, it "presses" the button on the remote and the receiver at the light closes the relay which switches on the light. I have previously used a receiver (but actual physical button pressing, not a remote wired to any outputs) like this to switch on a light in a separate building... problem is that interference etc. sometimes required multiple presses to work (like when you arrive at the gate and have to press your remote button more than once even though the battery is new). The connectors on the NOVA receiver are not exactly a good fit for anything over 1.5mm2  wire, and thick wire ("normal AC" as opposed to 6/8 core alarm wire) does not route easily if keeping the receiver's cover on.

Try at your own peril... 

[Fuenkli 166]

10 minutes ago, introverter said:

Try at your own peril

thanks for the information. I ended up using Home Assistant with Sonoff mini's. 

[introverter 116]

Just now, Fuenkli said:

I ended up using Home Assistant with Sonoff mini's. 

like I said... much more elegant options out there 

Out of interest how did you wire the alarm output  -  one wire to each side of the switch on the mini?

[PaulF007 400]

One more idea , should any one look at this. 
Most alarms have an audio output , 12v , to drive siren. So 
1) Dead simple method - 12v - 220v contact to the lights. They will then come one if the siren is activated and switch off if the siren is off.
 2) 12v interval timer. - If triggered run for 10,20, 30 min and then reset.
Wire the light in parallel with the relay so that you still have control to manually switch in the lights.   

There is a ton of other ways to do it but this is , in my mind , the dead simple method if you want to drive it from an existing alarm system. 

Edited August 2, 2020 by PaulF007

[Fuenkli 166]

4 hours ago, introverter said:

Out of interest how did you wire the alarm output  -  one wire to each side of the switch on the mini?

No. I connected the Alarm PGM output (dry contact) to the Raspberry and used it as a binary sensor in HA to control the Sonoff mini's.

[Fuenkli 166]

2 hours ago, PaulF007 said:

Dead simple method - 12v - 220v contact to the lights

I agree. If the system can be hardwired this is the way to go. In my case it was not possible. I needed a wireless solution.

[JpPaulKruger 1]

I’m a Paradox tech.

 

What I do is simple.

 

From ACDC you get a relay base (din rail mount)

You can add different types of relay boards to it.  I use the 12v DC Coil 220VAC switch relay board.

 

I Then have all my my external lights on separate circuits inside my DB. 4 circuits in total.  I then have a PGM4 module from Paradox also inside the DB.

SonI can manually turn them on and off via my insight gold app.  I also have it defined to turn on in an alarm condition.

 

but there are new products on the market called Sonoff.  Does exactly the same . Via WiFi, sends push notifications on On/Off activity and it has a schedule build in.

[Alex 3]

Staffix sells wireless transmitters/receivers (think I paid like R300) which I connected to a output on my alarm to open my gate. A possible solution as well.  

This transmitter: 
https://www.geewiz.co.za/transmitter/62540-et-sw43-1-micro-wired-transmitter.html

[isetech 13]

I am busy setting up my security lights to work via the alarm ... I got tired of using 1 app for the alarm (hyyp)...one app for the cctv (IDMSS plus) and another app to trigger lights etc (ewelink) 

The alarm app now offers alarm... cctv and device activation. 

A brief descritption : 

zone 1 - outside beam facing the gate.

camera 1 - outside facing the gate.

light 1 - 50 watt LED flood light.

day/night switch - so that the security flood lights only work at night.

partition 4 - outside beams.

old cellphone and tablet - cellphone is mobile to carry around ... tablet mounted on the wall. 

4 button remote - red button panic ... other 3 for switching on security lights (area 1 -3 )

Time to take the dogs for their evening walk (perimeter check) - you can trigger the security lights from the remote or the cellphone or the tablet  (usingt the hyyp app) or if you like me i prefer to walk in the dark ... leave them off.

All perimeter/security lights are in the off position under normal conditions.

NO alarm set ... If you walk past zone 1 - light one is triggered and stays on for 10 minutes ... then automatically switches off ... the alarm chimes at the keypad.  

If partition 4 is armed ... and you walk past zone 1 (no pet friendly devices are used after watching footage of people crawling aroound on a property) light 1 will activate and flash on/off for 15 seconds ... the light can be bypassed to stay on if required ... a notification is sent to all the devices ... including a pre and post recording from camera 1 ... or you can view a live stream using the alarm app ... including a chime on the keypad ...

There is a passage outside which requires light in the evening - The PIR is used as an occupation sensor under normal conditions or flashes if the PIR is violated while armed ... or can be triggered/switched on using the alarm app.

I would say the app is the easiest way to setup triggers for lights ...gates and garage doors. 

PGM outputs using relays can be programed using a variety of options ... or even programmed to switch on/off using a timer.

I have just collected an Xwave 2 single channel output module ... it has 2 zones a relay and built in timer ... i am hoping to install it at the gate with an industrial door mag on the gate and door mag on the gate control panel (if they try steal the battey) connected to the gate lights using th relay ... the gate battery for the 12 VDC required to power the Xwave2 I/O unit ...which will communicate with the Xwave 2 hub at the alarm panel (save me running alarm wires to the gate) 

I know a bit of fthe topic but people who live in SA with the crime out of control ...every bit of advice helps. 

A tip for security in SA ... the dogs are alocated to each women in the house are locked inside the house at night  (to prevent them being poisoned) ... rather have them with us if the shyte hits the fan ... the women do training with the dogs and have a specific call  for their alocated dog if in distress .. .the kids room also  has a dog kennel situated outside the bedroom window ... you would have to climb over the kennel to get gain access to the bedroom ... that dog is secured in that area at night. 

another tip ... mount the TV against the wall and connect a wired or wirless door mag to the TV and other devices which dont move ...but would be stolen during a house invasion  ... if you are caught off guard and cant get to he panic button ... as soon as they lift the TV a silent  panic will activate and notify the armed response and/or  other people who have the alarm app on their phone setup with the panic notification (the app is free ) an example - a child is living in the outbuilding on the property ... the parents can have the app loaded on their phones ... so if a home invasion takes place on the property and the child is tied up and locked in the bathroom ... as soon as the TV or device is move it will send a notification. 

I am busy setting it up at the moment ...and learning as i go ... i am sure there will be glitches ...but we will overcome them as they happen.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Solo 2]

Very informative thread,  thank you!