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Pylon US3000 PARTLY not communicating with Sunsynk inverter


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Hi 

I need some help. I am busy setting up a hybrid inverter / battery solution and am having a bit of a strange issue. 

I have a sunsynk 5KW inverter and 2x Pylontech US3000 batteries. Currently PV is not yet installed. I tried to connect using both CAN and RS485 to the battery and the inverter failed to see the battery. Inverter was showing 100% SOC even though the battery was showing 3 led on, which according to the battery manual, this translates to around 50% SOC. Been talking to Sunsynk who have been great at trying to assist but they could not find anything wrong with the setting and even tried a further firmware update. Eventually I  tried to move the coms cable to the 2nd battery and it is then able to work on CAN as well as RS485. 

The DIP switches are all set to 0 on both batteries as i only have 1 bank. Cabling is as per the manual. positive terminal from 1 battery and negative from the other. 

Has anyone seen a case were the pylon communication bus could be faulty on 1 battery?

thanks

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Thought I'd jump in on this thread instead of starting a new one.

 

I have the sunsynk 8kw inverter and 3 x 3.5 kWh pylontech batteries. 

If I set the second dip switch on the up position on the master battery, the inverter does not pick up any information from the batteries and only the SOC. 

 

I set all the dip switches down, then the inverter picks up everything from the individual batteries but does not report the correct SOC. 

I ran from battery power last night and according to the led lights on the batterbies, SOC was at 20% but inverter was still showing 100%. This was with the all the switches down. 

I disconnected the battery and set the second dip switch on the master up and now its reporting the correct SOC. 

Screenshot from the Solarman app showing full battery with all the dip switches down then the change when I set the second dip switch on the master battery.

 

 

Screenshot_20200812-091006_SOLARMAN Smart.jpg

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On 2020/08/07 at 11:31 AM, RVDM said:

See some discussion on the dip switch positions in the below thread:

https://mybroadband.co.za/forum/threads/generator-or-inverter-for-residential-use.1068126/page-79

thanks  for pointing this out. 

 

This however does not correlate with the configuration from the pylontech manual. For now it is still working with all dip switches set to 0000 and connected to the second battery. The SOC seems to be correctly managed and i wanted to also check that the capacity of both batteries is being used, which is in fact the case. 

 

Been busy with the solar install this past few days and picked up other issues that i am busy trying to resolve

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43 minutes ago, Achmat said:

Thought I'd jump in on this thread instead of starting a new one.

 

I have the sunsynk 8kw inverter and 3 x 3.5 kWh pylontech batteries. 

If I set the second dip switch on the up position on the master battery, the inverter does not pick up any information from the batteries and only the SOC. 

 

I set all the dip switches down, then the inverter picks up everything from the individual batteries but does not report the correct SOC. 

I ran from battery power last night and according to the led lights on the batterbies, SOC was at 20% but inverter was still showing 100%. This was with the all the switches down. 

I disconnected the battery and set the second dip switch on the master up and now its reporting the correct SOC. 

Screenshot from the Solarman app showing full battery with all the dip switches down then the change when I set the second dip switch on the master battery.

 

 

Screenshot_20200812-091006_SOLARMAN Smart.jpg

Hi @Achmat

How are you connecting the battery to inverter. CAN or RS485?  Are you seeing the battery when you go to the LI BMS menu. Initially the inverter was showing the SOC based on the battery capacity configured under the battery configuration. There was however, no information in the LI BMS screen. 

When i switched the master battery, i was then able to see the battery in the LI BMS menu. When i used RS485, it was showing me a table with each battery on a separate line showing battery voltage, temp, soc, and some other parameters. 

When i changed to CAN and the inverter detected the battery on the CAN interface, the display looks different when you go into the LIBMS. The table is no longer there.  I just see the overall stats for the bank. Apparently the CAN is the better interface to use when speaking to the local support. So for now it is working as expected wrt the battery. I set the SOC to 40% at 6AM and can see the battery LED indicators correlating to the SOC reported by the inverter. Battery output power also seems correct. 

BTW, which version of the app are you using as i cannot see SOC on my APP. 

My new problem is that the inverter shows everything working correctly. I configured the zero export power to 40W, and the inverter shows that its only pulling 40W from the grid and supplying everything else from battery and solar as I've prioritized load first. I've however got an efergy sensor connected and it shows the grid power is more like 600W. Will be getting a clamp meter to further test. 

So far Sunsynk support have been great. Been reading some comments about the poor Deye support and glad i went with sunsynk. 

 

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1 minute ago, Vassen said:

Hi @Achmat

How are you connecting the battery to inverter. CAN or RS485?  Are you seeing the battery when you go to the LI BMS menu. Initially the inverter was showing the SOC based on the battery capacity configured under the battery configuration. There was however, no information in the LI BMS screen. 

When i switched the master battery, i was then able to see the battery in the LI BMS menu. When i used RS485, it was showing me a table with each battery on a separate line showing battery voltage, temp, soc, and some other parameters. 

When i changed to CAN and the inverter detected the battery on the CAN interface, the display looks different when you go into the LIBMS. The table is no longer there.  I just see the overall stats for the bank. Apparently the CAN is the better interface to use when speaking to the local support. So for now it is working as expected wrt the battery. I set the SOC to 40% at 6AM and can see the battery LED indicators correlating to the SOC reported by the inverter. Battery output power also seems correct. 

BTW, which version of the app are you using as i cannot see SOC on my APP. 

My new problem is that the inverter shows everything working correctly. I configured the zero export power to 40W, and the inverter shows that its only pulling 40W from the grid and supplying everything else from battery and solar as I've prioritized load first. I've however got an efergy sensor connected and it shows the grid power is more like 600W. Will be getting a clamp meter to further test. 

So far Sunsynk support have been great. Been reading some comments about the poor Deye support and glad i went with sunsynk. 

 

I'm using RS485.

With the second dip switch up on the master if I go to LI BMS menu it does not show anything. If i have all the dip switches down then it shows everything under LI BMS  with each battery populated but SOC does not change and remains at 100%.

What is you setting under battery management. Mine is still on the default settings as I assume the BMS is managing everything.

I will try and change it to CAN and see if there are any changes.

 

I'm also very satisfied that I decided on the Sunsynk inverter.

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22 minutes ago, FixAMess said:

Does the solarman smart app allow one to make changes to the setup remotely, i.e. over an internet connection, not local wifi?

None of the Solarman apps allows this out I haven't been able to get it work. Only via local WiFi connection connected directly to the data logger. 

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On 2020/08/12 at 10:32 AM, Achmat said:

I'm using RS485.

With the second dip switch up on the master if I go to LI BMS menu it does not show anything. If i have all the dip switches down then it shows everything under LI BMS  with each battery populated but SOC does not change and remains at 100%.

What is you setting under battery management. Mine is still on the default settings as I assume the BMS is managing everything.

I will try and change it to CAN and see if there are any changes.

 

I'm also very satisfied that I decided on the Sunsynk inverter.

Here is a pic of the RS485 as well as the CAN interface as well as my current configuration.  

By default the battery was setup as 200ah. i changed mine to 144Ah when i was trying to investigate the connection issue and 1 morning it seemed to be fully discharged. But i dont think it is using this now as the data on the CAN interface does not match. 

IMG_5270.jpg.1aece9a5675a8a4d67b5ec48390fca66.jpg

IMG_5267_.png

IMG_5272.jpg

IMG_5273.jpg

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On 2020/08/12 at 11:45 AM, FixAMess said:

The way I understand it is that you still have to insert battery discharge,charge voltages as well as amp hours, even  if the BMS manages the charge, discharge limits.

I have a doubt about this. I somehow dont think that it is using the information that is configured here. my discharge current on the bms is different from the info that i have configured which leads me to think that the BMS somehow overrules the manual configuration. 

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26 minutes ago, Vassen said:

Here is a pic of the RS485 as well as the CAN interface as well as my current configuration.  

By default the battery was setup as 200ah. i changed mine to 144Ah when i was trying to investigate the connection issue and 1 morning it seemed to be fully discharged. But i dont think it is using this now as the data on the CAN interface does not match. 

IMG_5270.jpg.1aece9a5675a8a4d67b5ec48390fca66.jpg

IMG_5267_.png

IMG_5272.jpg

IMG_5273.jpg

Managed to come right and connected via CAN. Now mine is showing similar data to yours. 

 

The Solarman app now also shows battery voltage and temperature, battery Limiting charge and discharge currents. 

 

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4 minutes ago, Achmat said:

Managed to come right and connected via CAN. Now mine is showing similar data to yours. 

 

The Solarman app now also shows battery voltage and temperature, battery Limiting charge and discharge currents. 

 

okay cool. 

I just tried changing the switches of the faulty battery but it does nothing. It still cant communicate with any of those interfaces. For now i will just use the working battery. As long as i am getting the capacity but the second battery. Planning to get a third battery in the near future and will fiddle a bit more then. 

 

the solarman app is pretty cool. I changed the setting of grid type to storage and now i can see all the information. 

 IMG_5275.thumb.jpg.ccb7f0b6c340fc23e5dec9ec0a6917ee.jpg

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5 minutes ago, Vassen said:

okay cool. 

I just tried changing the switches of the faulty battery but it does nothing. It still cant communicate with any of those interfaces. For now i will just use the working battery. As long as i am getting the capacity but the second battery. Planning to get a third battery in the near future and will fiddle a bit more then. 

 

the solarman app is pretty cool. I changed the setting of grid type to storage and now i can see all the information. 

 IMG_5275.thumb.jpg.ccb7f0b6c340fc23e5dec9ec0a6917ee.jpg

Yep. It's pretty cool and my default app. 

 

You can get detailed information if you click on devices and select the inverter. 

 

What do you have connected to the aux input? 

I'm currently using my aux input as an output for non essential loads. 

 

Screenshot after changing to CAN at about 15:30.

Screenshot_20200812-213252_SOLARMAN Smart.jpg

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11 minutes ago, Achmat said:

What do you have connected to the aux input? 

I have a hoymiles 1200W micro inverter but panels are not yet connected. I dont really have any north facing roof. House has a flat roof converted into a flower garden. only have a west facing section of tiled roof. I've made a bracket and mounted 5x 420W canadian solar panels on a north facing wall. Planning to use the hoymiles to install 4x 365w panels east facing (on a to be made brackets) so that i can get early morning generation. 

Original plan was to also install 8 panels on a west facing roof for afternoon generation but Im reconsidering my panel install now. The 5x 420w was supposed to give a theoretical max of 2100W. I was expecting to get around 70% of that, but my generation is hitting 1900W from around 11, which is more like 90% of the rated power,  and i dont have enough use for it during the day. Most of my usage is when the sun doesn't shine. 🙁 

I have 2 DBs in my house, I added a second db when i did an extension. Inverter is currently just installed on the 2nd DB. Wanted to make sure everything properly before moving to CT to the main eskom feed. 

By using the generator input as an output, aren't you only dumping excess solar generating power? what happens when you don't have excess power? Or maybe better is to ask what you non-essential loads you are powering. 

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32 minutes ago, Vassen said:

I have a hoymiles 1200W micro inverter but panels are not yet connected. I dont really have any north facing roof. House has a flat roof converted into a flower garden. only have a west facing section of tiled roof. I've made a bracket and mounted 5x 420W canadian solar panels on a north facing wall. Planning to use the hoymiles to install 4x 365w panels east facing (on a to be made brackets) so that i can get early morning generation. 

Original plan was to also install 8 panels on a west facing roof for afternoon generation but Im reconsidering my panel install now. The 5x 420w was supposed to give a theoretical max of 2100W. I was expecting to get around 70% of that, but my generation is hitting 1900W from around 11, which is more like 90% of the rated power,  and i dont have enough use for it during the day. Most of my usage is when the sun doesn't shine. 🙁 

I have 2 DBs in my house, I added a second db when i did an extension. Inverter is currently just installed on the 2nd DB. Wanted to make sure everything properly before moving to CT to the main eskom feed. 

By using the generator input as an output, aren't you only dumping excess solar generating power? what happens when you don't have excess power? Or maybe better is to ask what you non-essential loads you are powering. 

I have two properties on my plot. Main house and garden cottage I'm renting out. Current daily usage is 40kWh combined. 

On my aux output I have my geyser and 2 inverter aircons. 

Main house is on the inverter and garden cottage is on its own DB. 

I'm producing on average 22kwh per day even in today's weather on Cape Town. 

The inverter is set to zero to home and I try and use all pv to power the entire house with excess used to charge the battery. I have very little excess solar that goes to waste. By 01:00 in the morning the 3 pylontech 3.5kw batteries are at 20% SOC and starts to charge when solar generation is more than what the house demands. Its only fully charged by about 15:00 but by that time solar is already starting to drop off. 

 

Main problem now is getting more batteries to last me a full night or even 36hrs for bad solar days. 

 

I am changing my aux output to an input for a micro inverter over the weekend. Don't have the micro inverter yet and thinking of getting the same one you have. 

Edited by Achmat
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So for Li, one does not need to fill in any of the battery charge,  discharge info...Good to know. 

Have you used battery monitor straight to the pylontechs to see if the info the sunsynk is giving is the same as the battery monitor gives? That will be a good verification exercise.

I'm trying to swap my Goodwe with a sunsynk, bought the inverter as well. Just can't find anybody to takes the wires off the Goodwe,  extend them and then connect them to the sunsynk...

 

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5 hours ago, Achmat said:

The inverter is set to zero to home

Have you checked that it actually is zero. Mine does not seem to be doing this. The inverter is showing that its only pulling 40 watts (which i set as the zero export power), but my efergy is showing that Im using around 600 watts. Both are on the same live feed. I see there's a thread on mybroadband which i am still going through but the user is having the same issue. Haven't gotten to the end of thread to see if he managed to resolve it. 

 

5 hours ago, Achmat said:

Main problem now is getting more batteries to last me a full night or even 36hrs for bad solar days.

a lot of people are having that problem. 😀

 

5 hours ago, Achmat said:

I am changing my aux output to an input for a micro inverter over the weekend

this makes more sense to me than using it as an aux output. I have a geyserwise on my 1 geyser which is being pre-fed with a evacuated tube geyser. On my 2nd geyser i have sonoff connected to a contactor to control the element. There is also a heatpump on this second geyser which heats water to 53 degrees. I use the element just to get the water to 65 degrees in the afternoon. The heatpump struggles and takes forever to heat water above 50 degrees. Installed it just before winter... maybe in summer it may do better. 

The Hoymiles works fine. You dont need the dtu or anything extra as the inverter will control the amount of power being fed-in. I had to however pay almost R300 for a 2m ac cable with 1 connector on it. I should have just cut the cable on the hoymiles and crimped my AC onto it. 

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4 hours ago, FixAMess said:

Have you used battery monitor straight to the pylontechs to see if the info the sunsynk is giving is the same as the battery monitor gives? That will be a good verification exercise.

How would 1 do this? I use the led on the battery to get a rough idea. Manual says each led is ~ 16% which corresponds to the inverter SOC.

 

4 hours ago, FixAMess said:

I'm trying to swap my Goodwe with a sunsynk, bought the inverter as well. Just can't find anybody to takes the wires off the Goodwe,  extend them and then connect them to the sunsynk...

Why? What's wrong with the Goodwe. I was initially going to go with the Goodwe but then found the sunsynk which had the additional gen input and could parallel which sort of sealed the decision. Its not really that difficult to install. My install is a full diy. 

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4 hours ago, FixAMess said:

@Vassen, why don't you try making the second battery the master and slave the current master. Won't that eliminate the possible battery bms issue?

So that's what i have done but there's this little voice in my head that keeps asking if the battery is faulty and should i return it... at ~20k a pop, i don't want to be sitting with a faulty battery.... .but there's also the other voice in my head saying that if its working, just leave it. Its installed on a geyser bracket >2m above floor and its the battery at the bottom that's faulty so to get it to it is a bit of a back breaking exercise. I almost dropped it when i was trying to get it up there. 

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6 hours ago, Achmat said:

I have two properties on my plot. Main house and garden cottage I'm renting out. Current daily usage is 40kWh combined. 

On my aux output I have my geyser and 2 inverter aircons. 

Main house is on the inverter and garden cottage is on its own DB. 

I'm producing on average 22kwh per day even in today's weather on Cape Town. 

The inverter is set to zero to home and I try and use all pv to power the entire house with excess used to charge the battery. I have very little excess solar that goes to waste. By 01:00 in the morning the 3 pylontech 3.5kw batteries are at 20% SOC and starts to charge when solar generation is more than what the house demands. Its only fully charged by about 15:00 but by that time solar is already starting to drop off. 

 

Main problem now is getting more batteries to last me a full night or even 36hrs for bad solar days. 

 

I am changing my aux output to an input for a micro inverter over the weekend. Don't have the micro inverter yet and thinking of getting the same one you have. 

okay, i just realized that it is actually your thread on mybroadband. 😂 

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7 hours ago, Vassen said:

Have you checked that it actually is zero. Mine does not seem to be doing this. The inverter is showing that its only pulling 40 watts (which i set as the zero export power), but my efergy is showing that Im using around 600 watts. Both are on the same live feed. I see there's a thread on mybroadband which i am still going through but the user is having the same issue. Haven't gotten to the end of thread to see if he managed to resolve it. 

 

a lot of people are having that problem. 😀

 

this makes more sense to me than using it as an aux output. I have a geyserwise on my 1 geyser which is being pre-fed with a evacuated tube geyser. On my 2nd geyser i have sonoff connected to a contactor to control the element. There is also a heatpump on this second geyser which heats water to 53 degrees. I use the element just to get the water to 65 degrees in the afternoon. The heatpump struggles and takes forever to heat water above 50 degrees. Installed it just before winter... maybe in summer it may do better. 

The Hoymiles works fine. You dont need the dtu or anything extra as the inverter will control the amount of power being fed-in. I had to however pay almost R300 for a 2m ac cable with 1 connector on it. I should have just cut the cable on the hoymiles and crimped my AC onto it. 

Yes, I checked my meter and it's not moving. I have the old spinning disk meter. 

I think the are few use cases where having a proper second output makes sense so hopefully they fix it. 

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