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19 minutes ago, JaseZA said:

image.thumb.png.4680d25e636d9bc9395cc0d5955a9885.png

This was yesterday - a fairly typical day. You can see our batteries where fully charged at 11h45 and because I had no load, I actually lost out on power. It was my fault we had no load - I forgot I'd bypassed the geyser while experimenting the night before and only realized this at 12h20 when the load suddenly increases again. It was hot last night so we ran the aircons quite a bit in the evening so went off battery at 20h45 when it hit 30%. The night before it ran until 05h00 in the morning.

You can see jut after 13h00 we overloaded the 3kw (I think it was kettle boiling?) and the inverter just switched to grid. I do currently have a fault on my inverter where it will sometimes glitch when there is a small overload on battery (around 3.2kw) and it shuts down rather than going to grid. But it happens infrequently enough that I just live with it. Admittedly this is something the Sunsynk doesn't do! If you want good support, Sunsynk (or other more expensive brands) is the way to go.

The more I see these kind of graphs the more excited I get, I cat wait to start my build. 😀

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It's very rewarding! This was basically my all consuming hobby at the start of lock-down (I placed orders for everything end Feb 2020 from Solar-shop). DIY is not for the faint of heart - especially when installing 6 panels by yourself on a 2-story duplex with a dodgy ladder! But it is well worth it if you have the skills. I did get an electrician friend to help me with the DB side of things but all of the rest I was able to find the info here. Nearly a year later and I'm still over the moon with how things went.

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2 hours ago, Cuberice said:

 can you share some detail regarding these Change Over switches?

I have installed 2 x normally closed contractors (change-over contactors) in my DB that always allow grid power as first priority. Then I use sonoff switches to switch them “on or off” with my phone (eWeLink app) 

The control power of the contactors is powered from my inverter because if I used Eskom power and Eskom would go off, I would loose the ability to control the system. The inverter is always on even at night with battery-power and enable me to switch between grid and inverter 24/7 from anywhere with my phone even when Eskom is down.

I don’t feed Eskom into the inverter at all and only use the inverter as a off-grid only. According to me the contactor switching is also soft on my inverter itself because my inverters internal relays never switch between grid, battery and bypass because the external contactors do that and so preserving the internal inverter relays. If my battery do run to low or trip for whatever reason the contactors just drop back to Eskom and you don’t even realize your back on Eskom, the same when switching to solar it acts as UPS and can switch while computers and tv’s are on.

sorry for long explanation.

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Blue Nova has currently good prices on their HC range - the 125 6.5 HC can handle a 125A continuous load that is better than the Pylonteck  2.6kW and probably for very little more than your cost of your 2 Pylontecks - It also can work with the CAN BUS  of your Sunsynk . Maybe have a look at that  as an single package option - it also comes integrated with a battery fuse .

BN52V-125-6.5k-HC.pdf

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