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___'s post in 3 Phase generator connection was marked as the answerNo, that's not going to work. The inverter wants to close its transfer switch and connect the input to the output. The outputs are tied together in a single phase system, but the inputs are 120 degrees apart with 230VAC between them. In all likelihood the inverter will refuse to use the AC input, but it could also blow things up if you try this.
You'd have to either reconfigure the inverters into a three-phase system, or get a separate three-phase charger.
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___'s post in Indicator Light Good Practice was marked as the answerThis is a safety thing, so what you want is for it to be super simple, less chance of failure.
There is also the danger that someone doesn't know this DB (where the light is in) is also supplied by the grid, and then he turns off the inverter and thinks it should be dead. When there are two sources, there needs to be a light on if the thing is hot.
If you want to see the status of the grid, I suggest using two lamps, one wired to the grid and one to the inverter. Both of them would be on during "normal" operation then. Then there is no confusion, ans both lights need to be dead before you can work on it.
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___'s post in working out cabling was marked as the answerDepends where you live. Below -4°C these 350W modules make more than 50V each and will exceed 100V in series, the max input on the MPPT. If it gets that cold where you live, put them in parallel. Series would be preferred though.
30A at +- 25V (to make the math easy) is 750W, and you have 700W worth of PV modules. Looks good.
Do you intend paralleling dissimilar batteries? If you do, remember that you will shorten the life of all the batteries, and to always make sure the entire bank gets a good charge (ie... you will overcharge some batteries slightly). It is not advisable in the long term.
2000VA, let's say 2400VA to make the math easy. Then you have to size the cables for 100A. I'd advise no smaller than 35mm^2 for that (between inverter and batteries). Remember a good fuse as well.
Between solar charger and battery, no less than 10mm^2, and fuses/breakers.
For PV, you can use 4mm^2 PV cable (it's UV resistant). You also get 6mm^2 but 4 is good enough and costs less.